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  1. HI Derek, Great furniture, i came here looking for 45 deg mitre shooting boards! wondering what the one you're using is, any good? having access to a metal milling machine i thought i might try and make a 90 and 45 steel one and that would give me a more stable and accurate results. Any chance you could post some detailed pictures? Cheers Dave
  2. a yes! thats my point of frustration and puzzlement how on earth can this be achieved with the saws that just dont appear to be up to the job of fine joinery? between 45.0 to 45.1 adds up to gaps when the joint at 90. Do people just accept the fact close enough is ok and clamp the hell out of it?
  3. Thanks for the comments getting some good ideas. Have include pic of saw and the frame i'm making, the end product is going to be a coffee table, clear epoxy up the holes. A couple of projects to try i might try a mitre sled on the saw or even build a 45 shooting board which would allow finer adjusting of the joint.
  4. Hi All, Now at my limit of frustration with 45 mitres!! i have cut them on my dewalt compound mitre and tilting the blade over on my tecnica panel saw. Referencing off the bed then on the blade with my wixey gauge. The two surfaces meet up fine but when pushed together all looks ok, BUT at 45 there a slight gap aarrhh! On the panel saw i think this is because there's low values of 45 and high values of 45!!! the gauge says 45.0 but i can still advance the tilt until 45.1 appears so obviously 45.0 isnt 45.0. As for the dewalt its just not up to the job to be that accurate. Is that the difference between 45 on an building site and 45 for furniture? How do people overcome the inadequacies in their saws to cope with this? i have a friend who has a bit of paper folded 3 times he places between the stock and fence 300 to the left of the blade on his saw (new makita)........another suggested a 45 shooting board. How do you get an acceptable degree of accuracy to start with?
  5. Just recently refurbished an old battered pine coffee table. i glued the edge strips in place to "frame" the middle pine top. Not sure this a good thing to do taking wood movement into account. How would i achieve this type of affect in a more technically correct way to allow for wood movement or are the glues strong enough that the joints will hold together over time?
  6. Hi All I've been looking at panel saws and table saws, I have mostly used scm panel saw in tertiary ed and it easy to cut say 2000mm x 400mm or larger just put the long side up against the fence and cut... but on a table saw you only have the small fence of the mitre gauge to reference against, to me it doesn't seem to be enough fence length to be stable and accurate. How do you do this operation on a table saw maybe by buying an Incra mitre gauge? Dave
  7. Hi All Thinking about buying a festool ets150 but should i buy the /3 or /5? Can any one help a confused newbie with the pro's and con's, guess it will mostly be used for finishing furniture or is that a tooo general? Thanks