Chuck Melton

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Everything posted by Chuck Melton

  1. Thanks guys. I just went ahead and ordered it (Don't tell my wife...) $33 is a pretty good deal. I have a new 8" 60 tooth blade from freud that I was debating whether I should keep (It was 50ish bucks at home depot). I have been using a 60 tooth 7.25 thin kerf and it has cut really well.
  2. Eric, were you referring to Shannon Rogers? That is who responded to my email from McIlvain. I can apparently order from their HardwoodToGo website, drive 5 minutes and pick it up. Their prices are a ton cheaper than what I paid earlier today.
  3. http://www.mcilvain.com/ This place is 5 minutes from me and has been in business since 1798 but I am thinking I would be under their minimum order size.
  4. Where I am, just north of Baltimore there are quite a few options. I went to the closest non-wholesale place which is about 10 minutes away. The next closest reputable looking place (ie has a website and seems like an actual business) is about 20 minutes away so I will definitely have to check them out as well. There are a bunch of other dealers closer to DC (45ish minutes away. It's good to know that prices can vary so much locally.
  5. I could potentially also rip it on a 14" band saw, but the one I have is a Delta bench top with no fence on it, so I'd have to rig one up.
  6. Yes, it is hard maple. I guess I should consider regional fluctuations since I am in Baltimore, some of the exotic stuff is probably much cheaper as it is probably coming right off the boat here where as the maple is getting trucked in from up north. Thanks for chiming in PG.
  7. I have a couple of different blades for my table saw and I am picking up some 8/4 maple and purpleheart tomorrow. I am going to be ripping it and I want to get some blade advice. My tablesaw is only 8" at 3/4 hp (it's a vintage 1952 motor, so from what I have read it's probably closer to 1.5 HP in todays terms). I typically leave a 60 tooth finish blade in it and that has served me well for ripping plywood, pine, and some 4/4 maple. The blades that I have that have fewer teeth and more gullet to them are marked as being framing blades. Should I swap to one of these? I do have a blade that
  8. I actually scored a much nicer Jointer pretty cheap. It had a "bad" motor that really just needs a capacitor. So instead of the benchtop model for with no gibs for $40 I am ending up with a freestanding 6 1/8" for $60 that is a foot longer.
  9. I bought some hardwood today for my first non shop furniture project and I wanted to get an idea of how the pricing for my local hardwood dealer stacks up. 8/4 rock maple was 6.61/bf 8/4 purpleheart was 10.16 it doesn't seem outrageous but I also don't really know the market.
  10. Thanks Particle and and JHop Thanks again G S. I actually just got back from picking up another $40 jointer that is on stand and about 18 inches longer. The motor wasn't running but it's a standard 3450 rpm motor. I took the motor apart and everything looks good aside from the capacitor which looks a bit scorched. So hopefully a quick fix. I thought about trying to rig up the motor from the other jointer but despite it advertising 1 1/2 horsepower it doesn't seem like it would sufficient.
  11. She bought it warped and someone had previously sanded the finish off of it. The door is 6 pieces of hardwood so I think it would take well to be being clamped flat. She has had it down in her fairly damp basement for a week but the wood still felt like it had barely any moisture in it.
  12. My sister in law recently purchased an antique jam and pickle cabinet. It's made of maple and the door is tongue and groove about 3/4" thick face screwed into two cross pieces fo maple on the back. Would it be best to disassemble the door panel and run the boards through a jointer? Remove the cross pieces and clamp it flat with cauls? As always, any advice is greatly appreciated.
  13. Http://owwm.org is a great source of information. Just make sure you check out several methods for anything you want to do.
  14. I hit a snag with the jointer. The clamps that hold the knives in place are missing and unavailable from sears. How special are these clamps? Would it be feasible to cut a piece of steel and drill holes in it to replace them?
  15. G S, Thanks for the reply (well, thanks for all of your patient replies in the threads I have started). That is a pretty serious restoration process, it definitely shows better results than the other plane restorations I have seen.
  16. I had mentioned to my uncle that I was getting in to wood working and he said he thought there might be some old hand planes tucked away somewhere in the basement of his house (He lives in a house that my great grand parents built in 1928) We pulled out a toolbox that my uncle swears has not been moved in 50 years and there were 3 planes inside amonst some other old hand tools (rasps, chisels, etc) I scored an old #5 that should clean up quite nicely, a block plane that is kind of beat up which might not get restored, and an unmarked smoothing plane (well, I think it's a smoothing plan
  17. The jointer ended up not having knives in it, so I got it for $40. The motor sounds great and the surface rust doesn't look bad at all. Just had to make a sears parts order last week for a new router collet, looks like I am ordering some knives this week.
  18. I pulled together table saw reconditioning and maintenance info from a number of sources. I focused mainly on finding the solutions for individual problems instead of trying to find a single source for everything. The biggest chore was definitely getting the cast iron table back in shape. I gave it a once over with a brass bristled brush and then wiped it down with a damp paper towel. The next step was spraying the top down with WD 40 and sanding with 400 grit. I was amazed at how well this worked. After a thorough wipe down and a coat of paste wax I am really pleased with the results. Thi
  19. If you come up with a price I'd be interested to see what it is. I am getting started and planes and hand saws are on my shopping list.
  20. I've always been intrigued by woodworking, I attribute to seeing too many episodes of The New Yankee Workshop at an impressionable age. At the age of 31 I've decided to start actually getting some tools together and giving it a go. I am most of the way to having what I think should be a servicable shop in the way of power tools. I am learning that I certainly have some hand tools to buy, and I have an absolute ton to learn before I start spending cash on decent wood. I have already found this community to be welcoming and resourceful and this is only my fourth post. I am going to try t
  21. I am complete novice to wood working and just getting my shop put together and I have a few bucks left in the slush fund I set up to buy some used tools to get myself started. I have the opportunity to buy a 6" craftsman jointer that looks to be 10ish years old for $60. Is it worth picking up so that I can have the tool, or is it going to be a $60 paperweight that I will be instantly frustrated with? I am also planning on taking a look at some very old power tools that my uncle has (they were originally my great grandfather's) and I believe he said there is a jointer amongst them. Woul
  22. Thanks for chiming in guys. I actually scored a $20 6 inch dado stack off of eBay. Glad I didn't unknowingly buy an 8 inch. I have had a ton of luck with used tools so far, aside from a rather scary experience with the router collet breaking and ricocheting a bit off the wall of my garage. I probably should have watched a few router safety videos while I was studying up on tablesaw safety. Does anyone have any resources or pointers for efficiently working with bench top power tools? I feel like I have been playing musical chairs swapping the band saw, miter saw and drill press around.
  23. I have also recently gotten bitten by the woodworking bug. I have probably bought more stuff than I should have at this point, but I haven't gone completely off the deep end. I have been primarily sticking to used tools on craigslist to augment some of the stuff that I already had (circular saw, drill, random orbital sander, somewhat decent hand tools). I set a starter budget of $500 for power tools and have put together what I think is a decent mini workshop. so far I have picked up : 14" Delta band saw ($100) 12" DeWalt Compound miter ($100) old Franklin Foundry drill press ($40)