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daviddoria's Achievements

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  1. Ok, here's what I tried. I got some 3 mil vinyl with adhesive back and stacked 3 layers of it (so apparently the red laminate is 9 mil). I added the pieces a bit oversized and then cut them to match the missing laminate with an Xacto knife. It seems pretty much perfectly flush. Be super careful when doing this to avoid dust - even the TINIEST little spec leaves a pretty big pock mark in the vinyl. So it looks and feels great, but time will tell if it holds up to use. I'm a bit afraid that it will tear if a sharp corner catches it (or especially if a workpiece drags one of the dust pocks). David
  2. I reached out to Sawstop and this is what they told me: "That recessed are is supposed to be slightly lower to accommodate the wear caused by the anti-kickback pawls. Our earliest inserts did not have this recess, and the plastic being deformed by the pawls would snag material being fed through the saw. If you do not plan on using the blade guard with the pawls, you can fill this area to make the insert a uniform thickness. I have had customers use glue or double-sided tape to secure veneer to this area. The other option is to get a dado insert and cut a slot for the riving knife to go through." I don't want to buy another throat plate, so now the trick is to figure out what to use to veneer the black part. It seems like they make vinyl sheets for some kind of art something or rather in 3-10 mil thickness. I'm going to pick up some of those and give it a whirl.
  3. I was cutting some thin strips today and one of them got caught half way through the cut at the point labeled 'B'. After a few choice words about almost messing up my workpiece, I did some investigating. As I had calibrated it when I got the saw, the red part of the throatplate all the way around (the label 'A' in the image, for example) was perfectly flush with the cast iron. However, at the back (black) where the workpiece got caught (label 'B'), the throatplate was below the cast iron (hence the workpiece getting caught). It seems as though the black part of the throat plate is actually a tiny bit lower than the red part, making it impossible to get that part level with the cast iron without the red part being above the table. Does anyone else have this issue? It seems minor, but as I learned today can be quite annoying/dangerous. Thanks, David
  4. Thanks guys. So it is a bookcase :). Just disguised to look like a nook haha.
  5. Hello, I saw these seemingly simple shelves and was curious how they are attached. It looks like it's probably 3/4" ply with a 1.5" or so face frame (would you agree?). But there are: no L-brackets in the back if I'm right about the material thickness, it's not a "floating shelf" (with those metal "posts" that you'd slide the shelf onto poking out of the back wall) no cleats on the side walls So... magic? haha. If this was a bookcase with wood sides, I suppose it would be tiny little shelf pins, but it looks like drywall. So maybe the question is how do you make something like shelf pins poke out of drywall? Any insights/guesses are appreciated! Thanks, David
  6. Hi guys, I've seen several people put a bar across the casters on each side of a workbench to prevent racking (like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGlmlMjqQUc ). I did that a couple of years ago, but I still found it really tough to raise/lower - I'd essentially have to lift up one side of the bench (with my hands, lifting the top) as I pressed down on the bar. I'm still young and spry, but doing that was never very fun (it was an awkward handhold and a very awkward lift). To make it easier, I just grabbed a 2x6 and threw a couple of Dominos in it, along with some matching mortises on the caster bar. It works like a charm! The pictures show: down.JPG - the workbench in the working/down/stable position lever.JPG - the bar with two sets of Dominos step1.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the end step1_finish.JPG - after levering the bench most of the way up step2.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the face (into the same mortises on the caster bar) step2_finish.JPG - after levering the bench the rest of the way up up.JPG - the bench in the rolling position It's a little bit clunky to use (it'd be ideal to get it to one step instead of two), but it sure saves my back! I hope this helps the next guy! David
  7. @Wimayo Why would you recommend this over full length vertical supports that put the weight on the floor (vs the wall, as in your suggestion)? I was actually planning to build basically another one of these and put it above the bench (like at head-height) as additional storage. I haven't yet thought through attaching those, but I was thinking to integrate a few inch horizontal strip at the top of the top cubby and just screw it to the wall like you would with a normal cabinet. Seem reasonable?
  8. Gah, separating them is what my wife told me to do, but I said "na, WoodTalk guys will have a better way!" . I guess it just seemed like extra material and extra joints, but I suppose if wall-to-wall is what I want, then there isn't any other choice .
  9. Hi guys, I have a very simple build planned that I don't know how to get to its desired location :). Check out the attached picture. Top: A top-down view of the space. It is a closet that I took the doors off, so there are two "columns" on either side of where I want the bench. Bottom: A front view of the bench (just a box with cubbies). So, if I assemble the bench outside of the closet, I won't be able to get it into the closet! But if I try to assemble in-place, then I won't be able to attach one of the outside panels (I was planning to use dominos for all of the joints). The only thing I came up with was to leave the bench an inch or so short so I could get some clamps in there to pull the last panel into the assembly. Any other ideas? What would you guys do here? Thanks, David
  10. I have a Sawstop TGlide fence. When I take it off the saw table when cross cutting long workpieces, I'm currently just setting it on the workbench, where it is quite in the way. I was pretty surprised when google didn't show me a single picture of a wall mount when searching for "wall mount biesemeyer fence". Is there a reason to not hang these on the wall? Or are the mounts just so boring as to not warrant any pictures on the internet? haha I'm just curious what you guys do with them. And if you post a picture it'll be the first on the whole internet!
  11. Minwax Wipe On Poly (glossy), 4 coats, applied with a rag. Lightly sanded with 400grit between the first 3, and 600 grit before the last one.
  12. Thanks for all of the suggestions and discussion! I've attached how it ended up - I like it! Now if only the finish made the crotch figure look like Marc's (also attached)... (I even used the same finish and technique (though apparently not haha)!).
  13. The surface was already sanded basically flat from the mill where I bought the slab. So any local card scraping I do makes it "not flat" (even if the epoxy is 1" and I scrape around like 6", you can still feel a 6" "dip" when you run your hand on the surface, ya know?)
  14. Minnesota Steve, then you'd just make the curved outlines of the puddles become straight edges. The nature of most cracks doesn't lend them well to being taped - I feel like no matter how many tiny edges of tape you tried to use to make a boundary you'd still have this problem.
  15. Hi guys, I am filling some checks and small cracks in a walnut slab. I am using West Systems (105 + 205 (fast)), and a few drops of black India Ink. I applied the epoxy (kind of just dropped it on with a toothpick), let it cure, then used a card scraper to scrape it smooth. This filled the crack perfectly, but about 1/4" around the crack there is a black "stain" from where the epoxy puddled/pooled before it cured. How do you prevent this / what do I do about it now? I can keep scraping and scraping and the problem seems to get better (presumably the dye hasn't penetrated THAT far into the wood), but I'm going to make a huge divot (and it's also hard to remove that much material on crotch figure, etc.). Surprisingly I also filled some cracks in the end grain and it seems to sand right off (I was expecting that it would have pulled much farther into the end grain (capillary action, etc.). Any tips or thoughts would be appreciated! David