daviddoria

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Everything posted by daviddoria

  1. Ok, here's what I tried. I got some 3 mil vinyl with adhesive back and stacked 3 layers of it (so apparently the red laminate is 9 mil). I added the pieces a bit oversized and then cut them to match the missing laminate with an Xacto knife. It seems pretty much perfectly flush. Be super careful when doing this to avoid dust - even the TINIEST little spec leaves a pretty big pock mark in the vinyl. So it looks and feels great, but time will tell if it holds up to use. I'm a bit afraid that it will tear if a sharp corner catches it (or especially if a workpiece drags one of the dust pocks).
  2. I reached out to Sawstop and this is what they told me: "That recessed are is supposed to be slightly lower to accommodate the wear caused by the anti-kickback pawls. Our earliest inserts did not have this recess, and the plastic being deformed by the pawls would snag material being fed through the saw. If you do not plan on using the blade guard with the pawls, you can fill this area to make the insert a uniform thickness. I have had customers use glue or double-sided tape to secure veneer to this area. The other option is to get a dado insert and cut a slot for the riving knife to go t
  3. I was cutting some thin strips today and one of them got caught half way through the cut at the point labeled 'B'. After a few choice words about almost messing up my workpiece, I did some investigating. As I had calibrated it when I got the saw, the red part of the throatplate all the way around (the label 'A' in the image, for example) was perfectly flush with the cast iron. However, at the back (black) where the workpiece got caught (label 'B'), the throatplate was below the cast iron (hence the workpiece getting caught). It seems as though the black part of the throat plate is actually a t
  4. Thanks guys. So it is a bookcase :). Just disguised to look like a nook haha.
  5. Hello, I saw these seemingly simple shelves and was curious how they are attached. It looks like it's probably 3/4" ply with a 1.5" or so face frame (would you agree?). But there are: no L-brackets in the back if I'm right about the material thickness, it's not a "floating shelf" (with those metal "posts" that you'd slide the shelf onto poking out of the back wall) no cleats on the side walls So... magic? haha. If this was a bookcase with wood sides, I suppose it would be tiny little shelf pins, but it looks like drywall. So maybe the question is how do you make
  6. Hi guys, I've seen several people put a bar across the casters on each side of a workbench to prevent racking (like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGlmlMjqQUc ). I did that a couple of years ago, but I still found it really tough to raise/lower - I'd essentially have to lift up one side of the bench (with my hands, lifting the top) as I pressed down on the bar. I'm still young and spry, but doing that was never very fun (it was an awkward handhold and a very awkward lift). To make it easier, I just grabbed a 2x6 and threw a couple of Dominos in it, along with some matching mort
  7. @Wimayo Why would you recommend this over full length vertical supports that put the weight on the floor (vs the wall, as in your suggestion)? I was actually planning to build basically another one of these and put it above the bench (like at head-height) as additional storage. I haven't yet thought through attaching those, but I was thinking to integrate a few inch horizontal strip at the top of the top cubby and just screw it to the wall like you would with a normal cabinet. Seem reasonable?
  8. Gah, separating them is what my wife told me to do, but I said "na, WoodTalk guys will have a better way!" . I guess it just seemed like extra material and extra joints, but I suppose if wall-to-wall is what I want, then there isn't any other choice .
  9. Hi guys, I have a very simple build planned that I don't know how to get to its desired location :). Check out the attached picture. Top: A top-down view of the space. It is a closet that I took the doors off, so there are two "columns" on either side of where I want the bench. Bottom: A front view of the bench (just a box with cubbies). So, if I assemble the bench outside of the closet, I won't be able to get it into the closet! But if I try to assemble in-place, then I won't be able to attach one of the outside panels (I was planning to use
  10. I have a Sawstop TGlide fence. When I take it off the saw table when cross cutting long workpieces, I'm currently just setting it on the workbench, where it is quite in the way. I was pretty surprised when google didn't show me a single picture of a wall mount when searching for "wall mount biesemeyer fence". Is there a reason to not hang these on the wall? Or are the mounts just so boring as to not warrant any pictures on the internet? haha I'm just curious what you guys do with them. And if you post a picture it'll be the first on the whole internet!
  11. Minwax Wipe On Poly (glossy), 4 coats, applied with a rag. Lightly sanded with 400grit between the first 3, and 600 grit before the last one.
  12. Thanks for all of the suggestions and discussion! I've attached how it ended up - I like it! Now if only the finish made the crotch figure look like Marc's (also attached)... (I even used the same finish and technique (though apparently not haha)!).
  13. The surface was already sanded basically flat from the mill where I bought the slab. So any local card scraping I do makes it "not flat" (even if the epoxy is 1" and I scrape around like 6", you can still feel a 6" "dip" when you run your hand on the surface, ya know?)
  14. Minnesota Steve, then you'd just make the curved outlines of the puddles become straight edges. The nature of most cracks doesn't lend them well to being taped - I feel like no matter how many tiny edges of tape you tried to use to make a boundary you'd still have this problem.
  15. Hi guys, I am filling some checks and small cracks in a walnut slab. I am using West Systems (105 + 205 (fast)), and a few drops of black India Ink. I applied the epoxy (kind of just dropped it on with a toothpick), let it cure, then used a card scraper to scrape it smooth. This filled the crack perfectly, but about 1/4" around the crack there is a black "stain" from where the epoxy puddled/pooled before it cured. How do you prevent this / what do I do about it now? I can keep scraping and scraping and the problem seems to get better (presumably the dye hasn't penetrated THAT far into the
  16. Thanks guys. I figured "keep the crotch" would win. Now I just have to decide what I want to do about the straight part of the crotch on the outside right bottom... I was going to use some 1.5" steel tube U-style legs. I guess that's why I'm obsessing about this cut - because there really is hardly any work/design involved haha. "Hey look I screwed this piece of wood onto these legs" had better not elicit a "yea but what the heck is this straight part?" for a viewer :).
  17. I got this cool slab that I'm going to make into a coffee table top. I wanted to get some opinions - do I: 1) leave it as is, accepting that the lower right part of the live edge has been cut straight or 2) cut it as shown by the red line in the attached picture so that the live edge extends along the whole edge (but losing the crotch/'Y'), making the bottom edge parallel to the top edge I'd hate to lose the crotch, but I also feel like the non-continuous live edge will drive me crazy ("if only I had waited for a different slab..." haha). Which would you guys consider the l
  18. Hi Art, I have attached some drawings. You're right, in theory the blade does not extend past the bearing, but it seems to just enough to hit the template. In attached 'routerbit.jpg', you'll see the situation I used when I accidentally cut the template. In 'routerbit_2.jpg', you'll see that if I lower the bit so that the bearing is the only part to touch the template, that the top part of the workpiece is not cut. David
  19. Hi guys, The router bit shown in the attachment has about a 1/8" gap between the bearing and the blade. If I use a 1/4" thick acrylic template, in order to get a "reasonable" (1/8" or so) portion of the bearing to ride on the template, while at the same time actually cutting the top of the workpiece, I end up cutting into the the bottom of the template. This is very annoying, because templates like this are very expensive!. Is there something I'm missing to be able to use this without cutting the template? Thanks, David
  20. Hello, I have some 40" and 24" Jet parallel clamps. I was having some strange problems where panels that I knew were dead flat were rocking on the clamp bars as I was setting up to glue another piece to the panel. After some investigating, I noticed that the rail stands are actually longer than the faces (below the bar), so when they are used there is a significant gap between the jaw and the table. See attached clamp_flat.jpg for how the jaw sits on the table without the rail stand, and then clamp_lifted.jpg to see it with the rail stand attached. Is this expected? It
  21. I am making a serving tray (image attached). In the past with things like this I've ended up with some cupping which, with fixed-height feet I've used, results in some slight rocking. I got some of these: http://www.rockler.com/screw-on-case-feet but they are not adjustable like I thought they might be. Can anyone recommend some small feet that allow you to adjust one at a time to stop rocking? Something like furniture leveling feet (like these http://www.rockler.com/plastic-leveler-glides), but but rubber and that you don't have to install an enormous T-nut to use? Thanks, David
  22. Thanks guys - I'm going to try the aluminum cans. Mel Morris - Do "actual shims" have a more technical name? I didn't see anything like what I was imagining after searching Rockler and Amazon.
  23. Since I don't have a jointer, I do the (tedious) thing where I hot glue the workpiece to a sled with little shims underneath to fill the voids and "joint" (with a thickness planer) one surface. This works great for boards that are reasonably not flat - I just cut little 3 degree wedges off the end of a 1"x1" scrap piece to make the shims. The edge of those shims seems to be about 1/32". This means for boards that are *almost* flat, but just rock a little bit, the shims don't fit under the gaps. I've tried business cards and little folded pieces of paper, but those seem to compress a little bit
  24. Just to conclude the story: I got the HSS knives from Infinity tools. I ran a couple of boards through, and the knives are already so dull that they leave terrible tearout on pine. I don't know if there are different kinds of bamboo, what whatever kind this is, I highly advise the next guy to not try to plane it!
  25. Hi guys, A friend of mine asked me to plane 20 or so 8' bamboo boards for him. Not knowing any better (I have since read that because of a high silica content bamboo is torture on steel knives), I agreed. About half way through the first pass through the stack, the planer started to act very strangely. It was VERY loud (it's a DeWalt 734 so it's usually loud, but it definitely got much louder). Imagine my suprise when I drew a line on a board, ran it through, and the line was still there!? The knives are so dull that I guess they are not cutting at all anymore! I ran a handful of them thro