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Everything posted by daviddoria

  1. Thanks guys. So it is a bookcase :). Just disguised to look like a nook haha.
  2. Hello, I saw these seemingly simple shelves and was curious how they are attached. It looks like it's probably 3/4" ply with a 1.5" or so face frame (would you agree?). But there are: no L-brackets in the back if I'm right about the material thickness, it's not a "floating shelf" (with those metal "posts" that you'd slide the shelf onto poking out of the back wall) no cleats on the side walls So... magic? haha. If this was a bookcase with wood sides, I suppose it would be tiny little shelf pins, but it looks like drywall. So maybe the question is how do you make something like shelf pins poke out of drywall? Any insights/guesses are appreciated! Thanks, David
  3. Hi guys, I've seen several people put a bar across the casters on each side of a workbench to prevent racking (like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGlmlMjqQUc ). I did that a couple of years ago, but I still found it really tough to raise/lower - I'd essentially have to lift up one side of the bench (with my hands, lifting the top) as I pressed down on the bar. I'm still young and spry, but doing that was never very fun (it was an awkward handhold and a very awkward lift). To make it easier, I just grabbed a 2x6 and threw a couple of Dominos in it, along with some matching mortises on the caster bar. It works like a charm! The pictures show: down.JPG - the workbench in the working/down/stable position lever.JPG - the bar with two sets of Dominos step1.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the end step1_finish.JPG - after levering the bench most of the way up step2.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the face (into the same mortises on the caster bar) step2_finish.JPG - after levering the bench the rest of the way up up.JPG - the bench in the rolling position It's a little bit clunky to use (it'd be ideal to get it to one step instead of two), but it sure saves my back! I hope this helps the next guy! David
  4. @Wimayo Why would you recommend this over full length vertical supports that put the weight on the floor (vs the wall, as in your suggestion)? I was actually planning to build basically another one of these and put it above the bench (like at head-height) as additional storage. I haven't yet thought through attaching those, but I was thinking to integrate a few inch horizontal strip at the top of the top cubby and just screw it to the wall like you would with a normal cabinet. Seem reasonable?
  5. Gah, separating them is what my wife told me to do, but I said "na, WoodTalk guys will have a better way!" . I guess it just seemed like extra material and extra joints, but I suppose if wall-to-wall is what I want, then there isn't any other choice .
  6. Hi guys, I have a very simple build planned that I don't know how to get to its desired location :). Check out the attached picture. Top: A top-down view of the space. It is a closet that I took the doors off, so there are two "columns" on either side of where I want the bench. Bottom: A front view of the bench (just a box with cubbies). So, if I assemble the bench outside of the closet, I won't be able to get it into the closet! But if I try to assemble in-place, then I won't be able to attach one of the outside panels (I was planning to use dominos for all of the joints). The only thing I came up with was to leave the bench an inch or so short so I could get some clamps in there to pull the last panel into the assembly. Any other ideas? What would you guys do here? Thanks, David
  7. I have a Sawstop TGlide fence. When I take it off the saw table when cross cutting long workpieces, I'm currently just setting it on the workbench, where it is quite in the way. I was pretty surprised when google didn't show me a single picture of a wall mount when searching for "wall mount biesemeyer fence". Is there a reason to not hang these on the wall? Or are the mounts just so boring as to not warrant any pictures on the internet? haha I'm just curious what you guys do with them. And if you post a picture it'll be the first on the whole internet!
  8. Minwax Wipe On Poly (glossy), 4 coats, applied with a rag. Lightly sanded with 400grit between the first 3, and 600 grit before the last one.
  9. Thanks for all of the suggestions and discussion! I've attached how it ended up - I like it! Now if only the finish made the crotch figure look like Marc's (also attached)... (I even used the same finish and technique (though apparently not haha)!).
  10. The surface was already sanded basically flat from the mill where I bought the slab. So any local card scraping I do makes it "not flat" (even if the epoxy is 1" and I scrape around like 6", you can still feel a 6" "dip" when you run your hand on the surface, ya know?)
  11. Minnesota Steve, then you'd just make the curved outlines of the puddles become straight edges. The nature of most cracks doesn't lend them well to being taped - I feel like no matter how many tiny edges of tape you tried to use to make a boundary you'd still have this problem.
  12. Hi guys, I am filling some checks and small cracks in a walnut slab. I am using West Systems (105 + 205 (fast)), and a few drops of black India Ink. I applied the epoxy (kind of just dropped it on with a toothpick), let it cure, then used a card scraper to scrape it smooth. This filled the crack perfectly, but about 1/4" around the crack there is a black "stain" from where the epoxy puddled/pooled before it cured. How do you prevent this / what do I do about it now? I can keep scraping and scraping and the problem seems to get better (presumably the dye hasn't penetrated THAT far into the wood), but I'm going to make a huge divot (and it's also hard to remove that much material on crotch figure, etc.). Surprisingly I also filled some cracks in the end grain and it seems to sand right off (I was expecting that it would have pulled much farther into the end grain (capillary action, etc.). Any tips or thoughts would be appreciated! David
  13. Thanks guys. I figured "keep the crotch" would win. Now I just have to decide what I want to do about the straight part of the crotch on the outside right bottom... I was going to use some 1.5" steel tube U-style legs. I guess that's why I'm obsessing about this cut - because there really is hardly any work/design involved haha. "Hey look I screwed this piece of wood onto these legs" had better not elicit a "yea but what the heck is this straight part?" for a viewer :).
  14. I got this cool slab that I'm going to make into a coffee table top. I wanted to get some opinions - do I: 1) leave it as is, accepting that the lower right part of the live edge has been cut straight or 2) cut it as shown by the red line in the attached picture so that the live edge extends along the whole edge (but losing the crotch/'Y'), making the bottom edge parallel to the top edge I'd hate to lose the crotch, but I also feel like the non-continuous live edge will drive me crazy ("if only I had waited for a different slab..." haha). Which would you guys consider the lesser of the two evils? Thanks! David
  15. Hi Art, I have attached some drawings. You're right, in theory the blade does not extend past the bearing, but it seems to just enough to hit the template. In attached 'routerbit.jpg', you'll see the situation I used when I accidentally cut the template. In 'routerbit_2.jpg', you'll see that if I lower the bit so that the bearing is the only part to touch the template, that the top part of the workpiece is not cut. David
  16. Hi guys, The router bit shown in the attachment has about a 1/8" gap between the bearing and the blade. If I use a 1/4" thick acrylic template, in order to get a "reasonable" (1/8" or so) portion of the bearing to ride on the template, while at the same time actually cutting the top of the workpiece, I end up cutting into the the bottom of the template. This is very annoying, because templates like this are very expensive!. Is there something I'm missing to be able to use this without cutting the template? Thanks, David
  17. Hello, I have some 40" and 24" Jet parallel clamps. I was having some strange problems where panels that I knew were dead flat were rocking on the clamp bars as I was setting up to glue another piece to the panel. After some investigating, I noticed that the rail stands are actually longer than the faces (below the bar), so when they are used there is a significant gap between the jaw and the table. See attached clamp_flat.jpg for how the jaw sits on the table without the rail stand, and then clamp_lifted.jpg to see it with the rail stand attached. Is this expected? It basically means that if I don't have all of the clamps oriented the same way (which I understand to be a common clamping strategy) that I won't have a flat surface (the problem shown in the picture is actually doubled). I actually contacted Jet about this and they said that the rail stands are designed to be taller than the standard jaws to allow for easy adjustment of the dynamic jaw to the object being clamped and that I should indeed put all of the rail stands on the same side of the panel. Do you guys agree with this? Any other thoughts? My plan for now is to simply not use the rail stands, which seems like an odd plan :). Thanks! David
  18. I am making a serving tray (image attached). In the past with things like this I've ended up with some cupping which, with fixed-height feet I've used, results in some slight rocking. I got some of these: http://www.rockler.com/screw-on-case-feet but they are not adjustable like I thought they might be. Can anyone recommend some small feet that allow you to adjust one at a time to stop rocking? Something like furniture leveling feet (like these http://www.rockler.com/plastic-leveler-glides), but but rubber and that you don't have to install an enormous T-nut to use? Thanks, David
  19. Thanks guys - I'm going to try the aluminum cans. Mel Morris - Do "actual shims" have a more technical name? I didn't see anything like what I was imagining after searching Rockler and Amazon.
  20. Since I don't have a jointer, I do the (tedious) thing where I hot glue the workpiece to a sled with little shims underneath to fill the voids and "joint" (with a thickness planer) one surface. This works great for boards that are reasonably not flat - I just cut little 3 degree wedges off the end of a 1"x1" scrap piece to make the shims. The edge of those shims seems to be about 1/32". This means for boards that are *almost* flat, but just rock a little bit, the shims don't fit under the gaps. I've tried business cards and little folded pieces of paper, but those seem to compress a little bit when the feed roller presses down on them, defeating the purpose. I've heard the suggestion of playing cards (which I haven't tried yet), but I was wondering if there was a way to get a sharper point on these little shims? Or any other suggestions for something already around the shop that might work for this? Thanks! David
  21. Just to conclude the story: I got the HSS knives from Infinity tools. I ran a couple of boards through, and the knives are already so dull that they leave terrible tearout on pine. I don't know if there are different kinds of bamboo, what whatever kind this is, I highly advise the next guy to not try to plane it!
  22. Hi guys, A friend of mine asked me to plane 20 or so 8' bamboo boards for him. Not knowing any better (I have since read that because of a high silica content bamboo is torture on steel knives), I agreed. About half way through the first pass through the stack, the planer started to act very strangely. It was VERY loud (it's a DeWalt 734 so it's usually loud, but it definitely got much louder). Imagine my suprise when I drew a line on a board, ran it through, and the line was still there!? The knives are so dull that I guess they are not cutting at all anymore! I ran a handful of them through like this before I realized that they were not cutting - do you think I could have damaged anything (motor, etc.) by doing this? Or is it is just throw on some new knives and back to how it was? Also, I see that they make carbide knives for the 735, but I don't see any for the 734 - does no one make such an item? Thanks, David
  23. Colin, The threads appear to be ok, but something must just be a little bit off. I went to the hardware store last night and bought all of the nuts that I could find that looked to be about 1/2" (that included metric M12), but none of them fit onto the rod, I believe because the rod threads were more fine than the nut threads. Any suggestions on how to figure out what kind of nuts I need to fit this rod? Thanks, David
  24. Hi guys. I've been really happy with this drill press, except for one aspect. There are some points (just a couple, it works as expected in most positions) on the depth stop threaded rod at which the depth stop doesn't actually make the travel stop. That is, you can keep pulling the handle and the stop collar will slide up the threaded rod rather than stop the quill from coming down. I guess what is happening is the spring in their stop mechanism (the glorified nut that moves up and down on the threaded rod) is not engaging with enough pressure to lock the threads from the "nut" to the threads on the rod. Obviously, this can have disasterous consequences when drilling stopped holes. Has anyone else experienced this? Does it make sense to just use a nut or something (assuming those threads are standard?) instead of the spring loaded "stop" that comes with it? Any other suggestions for how to fix or replace this? Thanks, David
  25. Ace, Thanks for the explanation. Sorry about the terminology confusion - I fixed it in the original question for clarity. So the question then is what's the appliation and/or result difference between a finish with more acryli versus one with more urethane? Is one "easier" to apply somehow? I know with "real" lacquer there is the property (like shellac) that one coat "burns in" to the next coat, which seems like it gives you potential to fix errors, etc., but I don't believe that is the case with any of the water based options? Does more acrylic produce a more "plastic-y" look? Would one be able to to tell the difference by looking at it if I use the water based lacquer vs High Performance? Or is it simply a durability difference? Thanks for your help, David