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Everything posted by daviddoria

  1. See the image below: http://schurchwoodwork.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/f5653-jb_class_1-scaled500.jpg How would you guys achieve this "round" profile? that is, if you look straight at the front of the box, you won't see a rectangle with 4 straight sides, but rather the left and right sides of the rectangle are rounded. If the short sides are short enough, it could probably just be done on a bandsaw, but the long sides would most likely be too large for that method. Any other suggestions? Thanks, David
  2. Beechwood - With option 3, how do you make the positive exactly the same as the negative? Manually fitting them seems like it would extremely hard with a complex shape.
  3. I have an inlay bearing kit that has the removable bushing for cutting the male and female workpieces with the same template. However, the with the removable bushing in place, the bushing diamter is over a half inch, which doesn't allow even remotely small detail in the inlay. Is there any way to make details smaller than .5" besides using a "freehand" technique (like Marc does here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/router-based-inlay/)? I'm trying to do something like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3c/Fleur-de-lis-fill.svg/2000px-Fleur-de-lis-fill.svg.png and with the .5" bushing I am not able to get those sharp points. Any suggestions? Thanks, David
  4. I have the Porter Cable 14" PCB330BS. Beechwood - are you and PB saying that you would not recommend modifying it as Vyrolan is suggesting?
  5. Ah I see. So even though the 2.5" port on item 89195 in your link is exactly the same as my tool port (hence, you can't plug one into the other), I could connect those two parts with a rubber fitting. I'll give that a try, thanks! It always seems as though there are a zillion adapters in the catalogs, and never the one I need! I've done some other connections similar to the way you've recommended, and they always seem so bulky - whereas if they just made an adapter that would slip fit the final connection would be a few inches shorter and less unweildy.
  6. I have a 4" dust collector and a bandsaw with a 2.5" port. What I'm doing now is stepping a 4" hose down to a 2.5" hose to plug into the 2.5" port. However, this seems to really severely limit the airflow. I'm now trying to follow the saying "reduce as close to the tool as possible", which to me means to use an adapter to make the 2.5" port into a 4" port, and plug the 4" hose directly into that. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find such an adapter. How do you guys do this? Thanks, David
  7. I am making the wine display from the Drunken Woodworker site (http://drunkenwoodworker.com/how-to-make-a-wine-display). Everything was going well until I tried to route the roundover in the slots for the wine glasses. As you can see in the attachment, the 1/2" bearing on my 1/2" shank 1/8" roundover bit does not quite fit into the hole. I assumed (you know why that's bad to do...) that if I got a 1/4" shank bit, the bearing would be smaller. It arrived today, and it still has a 1/2" bearing! I just found this "minature" bit http://www.rockler.com/rockler-miniature-round-over-router-bits-1-4-in-shank that has an 8mm bearing (about 5/16") that looks like it would work. My question is (before I buy *another* bit), is there a way I'm missing to make this roundover with a "normal" size 1/8" roundover bit that I am missing? It seems as though the bearing must be flush with one side of the roundover profile (meaning I can't just replace the bearing with a smaller one). Do you guys typically keep a "minature" of a few small profile bits for cases like these? Thanks, David
  8. duckkisser - just last night I did what you suggested and it worked great. The problem was that the hot glue was WAY stronger than I anticipated and I couldn't snap the workpiece off from the carriers that I had glued it to! I even tried splitting it with a chisel but it wouldn't give. I decided to run it through the table saw to cut off the edge of the carriers closest to the workpiece, and it did work, but it got hot glue ALL OVER my blade. I take it that was not the way that the pieces are supposed to be separated? How do you usually separate the workpiece once you've planed it with the carriers? (and any ideas for getting hot glue off blade teeth?) Thanks, David
  9. Is there a particular type of mahogany that is that color? I got some "African Mahogany", and it was very very light (almost white - not quite as white as maple, but no where even in the ballpark of this color that I'm looking for).
  10. I am of the "build it from wood that is the color that you want the final product" school of thought. That is, I try to avoid stains and dyes at all costs! That said, I've been asked to build something to match this: http://ak1.ostkcdn.com/images/products/P10766117.jpg Is there a wood species that is this kind of red/brown color? Thanks! David
  11. I am making beer flights - so there are 1 1/4" deep, 2" diameter holes for the small glasses. I am using a 1/2" diameter bit. That's interesting, so if I get a larger diameter but I can take deeper passes? It sounds like my 3/8" deep passes are more than 1/3 of my 1/2" bit diameter. It seems to work ok- what is the problem supposed to be?
  12. Mike Woodsap - I am definitely pushing quite hard. I am taking a 3/8" deep pass (is that too deep? Whiteside told me I should be fine with up to 1/2", but that seemed like too much). I am using about a 1" long cutter, so I can't take any less than that and still have the bearing hit the top of the 3/4" thick template. The hole has to be fairly deep, and I was unable to reach the bottom with a shorter bit, and I have to do a lot of these so changing bits mid-hole did not sound like fun. I have been told that I should use a bushing guide and a straight bit (without a bearing) to do something like this, exactly for the reason of not being able to select my depth of cut how I want, but rather being forced into it by geometry constraints. Does that seem like the right thing to do?
  13. Very interesting - I'll have to pick up some of those! Thanks for taking the time to take those pictures!
  14. Interesting, I'll give that a try. I also had trouble where by screwing and removing countersunk screws through the template into many workpieces the MDF actually "delaminates" - where it kind of tears through the thickness (that is, about a 3/8" "flap" peels off of the 3/4" template). Is that a common occurrence as well? Anyone use some kind of plastic for something like this? Or is there a High Density Fiber that can be obtained and is better than the Medium Density Fiber (MDF)?
  15. I made a template out of 3/4" MDF to route some circles. After routing a handful or circles, I noticed that the bearing on the bit had kind of pushed a channel/groove into the inside of the hole in the template. This causes a little bit of a problem if I don't set the bit depth the same for multiple passes at different depths, because it then traces a slightly different circle and leaves a ridge inside the hole that is routed. Is there any better material than MDF to make a template like this from? Plywood wouldn't probably squish like the MDF did, but it has its own ridges that may or may not be a problem. What do you guys usually use for router templates like this? Thanks, David
  16. Apple Wood - I've heard that is the way to tension just about everywhere, what would you recommend instead? wdwerker - yea, it seemed like it had a lot of the "big boy" features, so I went with it. It does have ball bearing guides. I'll try the new blade in a couple of weeks - if it doesn't magically fix the problem I'll try some of these things.
  17. Thanks guys. I have tried painters pyramids in the past, but actually I've blown pieces off of the pyramids with the air from the spray gun (recall these are 3" wide or thinner pieces, not big panels, so placing the pyramids in a stable configuration is tricky sometimes). wdwerker - you must have different pyramids than me - mine are open on the bottom so I'm not sure how I'd screw them down (though it sounds like that may help quite a bit - a major problem I have is with the pyramids sliding around as I'm trying to place the workpiece on them). Also, you're talking about a crescent shape configuration just to prevent all of the tips from being in a straight line which would be prone to the part tipping sideways? Thanks for all of the ideas! David
  18. Great - I'm looking forward to it. It is the Porter Cable 14" saw. I'll have to look into the flutter method - I've just been using the "tension until the blade deflection before getting a white fingertip is about a 1/4"" method with the old blades.
  19. I am relatively new to HVLP, and I love it! When spraying reasonably small parts (say about 15" long x 3" wide), I typically put some cardboard over a lazy susan that is attached to a small table. This works great if there are just a couple of parts, but if I have a stack of parts to spray, the cardboard gets pretty wet with overspray, and I sometimes end up accidentally placing the next part to be sprayed in a puddle of finish. Do I just need to cycle through several pieces of cardboard? Or is there a better way to rest the parts so something like this doesn't happen? Thanks, David
  20. Thanks guys - I asked Santa for a Timberwolf - I'll let you know how it goes!
  21. TIODS, I am feeding quite slow (I can time it on the next cut I make if that will help) - would you say going slower or faster would help this problem? I am cutting curves, but they are not very tight. They move off of straight about an inch over a 15" length. Particle Board, Are you suggesting that blades made in Vermont are inherently bad? What am I looking for in a replacement? Less set? Thicker or thinner steel?
  22. I recently got a 14" bandsaw and threw this cheap Bosch blade (1/2", 4 TPI) on it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_330896-353-BS9312-4F_0__?productId=3197469&Ntt=bandsaw+blade+4tpi&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbandsaw%2Bblade%2B4tpi&facetInfo= I am getting a pretty awful washboard texture on my cuts of thicker stock (about 3", walnut). Would you guys guess that this blade is probably what is causing the rough cut? Thanks, David
  23. I am building a picture frame that will have a 10"x10" piece of glass. I was going to use a stub tenon and groove (see attached stubtenon.jpg) to attach the rails to the stiles, but I was thinking that then I'd have to make a stopped rabbet for the picture+mat+glass. If instead I just use a "half stub tenon" (which is just a halflap joint) (see attached halflap.jpg), then I can just cut through rabbets with the only disadvantage I see is half the glue surface (because of the missing second half of the stub tenon). Does anyone advise against doing this? The glass will be thin/light weight, but I am always afraid of joints that will be holding glass. Thanks! David
  24. I broke the pilot bit in my countersink. I got the set years ago so I don't remember what brand it is. The twist bit slides into the countersink and is fastened with an Allen screw. As hopefully you can see in the attached picture, there is a long flat spot on the bit so that the Allen screw will prevent the drill bit from spinning. Does this type of bit have a name? Can I just use a normal twist drill bit without the flat spot? It is a "6" countersink - does that mean it should be used as a countersink/pilot for #6 screws? Or does it mean that it is a #6 twist bit? (or are those the same, i.e. would you use a #6 bit for a pilot for a #6 screw?). Thanks, David
  25. @Nick Feola - Those clamps look like a great concept, but don't the make both the sled board and the board to be cut sit up an 1/8" (or however thick the metal is on the bottom), making the edge not perpendicular to the face of the board? Also, do you know where you can get those clamps besides Ebay? Thanks, David