Jeremy German

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About Jeremy German

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    hand tools, furniture
  1. What's the significance of starting a plane blade hanging partially off the stone when polishing the back using the ruler trick?
  2. I'm considering shortcutting the bench building process by buying the top from Highland (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/maple-workbench-top-pair-12-4.aspx). To install the Benchcrafted tail vise I'll need to excavate a deep cavity, or two if you want to think of it that way, one all the way through and the other partway. Partway should be no issue, Benchrafted demonstrates routing that out on their site. The through part is effectively a mortise with an open end, I'm not quite sure how to remove that material from a 4" slab. Rout halfway then flip it over and try to line it up to
  3. So buy now, rough dimension and sticker it until it's stable. Sounds good. It seems like it'll be way easier to build a bench with those large timbers rather than laminating up a bunch of 2x4s from the big box store.
  4. I'm going to need to finally build a proper bench soon and I was debating my options. Hardwood to Go will sell 6x6 Douglas Fir timbers, dried to a 2" depth. I was planning on a 4" top, so I'd be ripping these timbers to that width. (http://www.hardwoodtogo.com/roubo) My question is this: Will it be a problem that the inner 2 inches of the timbers have 12-18% moisture content? Should I rip them then leave them for weeks to settle if I do go this route?
  5. I wanted to pick up a set of shapton glass stones for my plane blades and chisels, I'm confused at the difference between the HR and HC series. I'm getting the impression that the HC series would be better for A2 and HR would be better for O1 steel? Am I getting that completely wrong?
  6. How useful is a mitre saw for furniture building when you already have a table saw? I've got a Craftsman 12" sliding that I hate, I've used it to cut stuff to length pretty often (though usually 2x6s for garden beds). I'm thinking of grabbing a Kapex, but it seems like the table saw can handle most of that work. If I'm only going to use it for cutting molding I'd just keep the crafstman hidden away, but if I'll be using it regularly for furniture I'd rather have the Kapex set up and ready to go whenever. Usually I'd wait until I thought I needed it, but I have a small area and I'm plan
  7. I just got an email about the new one time tool from Woodpeckers. The email contained this paragraph: "Woodpeckers Precision Carpenters Triangles are special, made-to-order items that haven’t been available in over two years. With the growing popularity of the Festool MFT and frequent requests for the Carpenters Triangle, Woodpeckers decided to schedule another run. They’ll be machining both the 12" and 18" versions, engraved with either inch (1/16" grad) or metric scales (1mm grad). They can be ordered with or without wall mountable MDF cases." What does the growing popularity
  8. It's the edges, I'm not sure what to do to make the top veneer smooth when it comes time for that because of the risk of sanding through. I'm not totally sure it's necessary for this project, but if I have to correct mistakes like this for cabinets in the future it's good to know. I can grab a picture as soon as I can get out into the shop if that helps.
  9. With vacation comes shop questions. I'm slightly confused over zero clearance inserts. My Sawstop came with one, but once I cut miters I'm going to need one specifically for that right? One for whatever angles I want to cut? Infinity tools makes some special inserts for Sawstop with some comments about having to throw out inserts over and over. Why would you need to do that? Do they get chewed up over time? Thanks in advance, this forum has helped me a lot as I get started with woodworking.
  10. I'm building a router table out of oak ply, this is my first cabinet of any sort. I've kept everything flush up front but due to small errors here and there I'm going to need to flush things up on the back before I attach it. Do I need a belt sander to rapidly remove that material? Or is a random orbital sufficient with an aggressive paper? If a random orbital will do I was thinking of going Festool, I've been wanting to upgrade my Bosch to the ETS 125 or 150 (I haven't done the research to see what I should be getting in that arena yet).
  11. Wow, much better option. Thanks for the heads up, my Triton is on the way.
  12. I can get a deal on the motor so it seems like a no brainer.
  13. Stupid question, if I buy a router lift (thinking the kreg to match my top, but open to recommendations) do I only need the router motor to fit in it? For instance it seems like I can just get the PC 7218 motor replacement to use with the lift rather than buying the whole router. I am planning on leaving the router in the table, I also have a Bosch 1617EVSPK already, I was originally planning on installing that in the table but I feel like I probably want a 3HP+ motor in the table.
  14. Hmm I came here with the same question. I just got a Sawstop PCS picked up a Forrest WW II and was searching around for a decent dado set. I have a related question, I'm also putting together a router table... is that going to invalidate the need for a dado set on the TS?