Jim Harvey

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About Jim Harvey

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand and Power tools

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  1. I have a Zenith 5 sized plane that clearly has the Sargent name milled off the casting right behind the front knob.
  2. I've heard he lost his sponsor and is looking for another outlet for his show.
  3. Would have needed a router bit with 1/8" shank. I wonder if there's a Dremel bit like that.
  4. I have an old Disston 70 dovetail saw. Seventeen TPI. When I got it it was missing so many teeth it looked like the front row at a Willy Nelson concert. Two weeks ago, I jointed and filed it for the third or fourth time and it finally came out pretty even. Test cuts were thin and straight so I started looking for a dovetail project. At about the same time I got a real Belgian Coticule at an estate sale. It needed a wooden box for protection so I decided to try a dovetailed design using Poplar leftover from a toy box project. This material is about 5/16" thick and already grooved for a tenoned lid, to hide the groove I would need mitered corners. My plan was to make a closed box to fit the stone, then saw the box into top and bottom sections. So the central dovetail had to be wide enough to accommodate a lip to register the two box halves. The dovetails were becoming complex. I did a bunch of practice joints. By the eighth try I was getting a "good enough for the shop" fit. This is the finished box with the Coticule. For reference, the stone is 1 7/8" wide And the four corner joints. Not shown is plowing a trench inside all four pieces for the Maple lip strip, done with a knife, a quarter inch chisel and a Stanley 271. I had to use an eighth inch wide chisel for much of the work, it was difficult to control. The box isn't pretty but it works. Took a week.
  5. Looks like the boards had a bit of twist.
  6. For something as small as dovetails, I would shop for a used set of drafting tools.
  7. There were hand saws designed to do this. https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/david-stanley-auctions/catalogue-id-srdav10002/lot-fe8063c6-4200-440f-8e4f-a3f70159d694 I've never seen one in the wild.
  8. That's a sign that the previous owner used a buffing wheel to polish the back edge. I'd go with ruler trickery. When I use the ruler, I write something on the iron withh a marker to remind me the next time I'm deburring the back.
  9. K Cooper - The spacer was a key item in speeding up the cut process Chet K - I made 3 prototypes figuring out how, 14 in the next batch from poplar and pine out of the Menards cutoff bin, 8 slightly smaller in cherry, another batch in progress now in cherry. I gave the 3 protos and one of the cherrys to my family for Christmas last weekend. I'm putting Watco on three of the cherry just to see what they look like and no Im not sending any to California.
  10. Our local woodworkers club makes toys every year to give away to disadvantaged families, thousands of toys over the years. But mostly I see boy toys, things with wheels. Boxes though, appeal to both boys and girls. There was an episode of "The Woodwright's Shop" this last season on making small sliding lid boxes. That started me thinking, if I followed Roy's jig ideas with a table saw, how fast could I produce boxes? I didn't use much of Roy's process but with the jigs I made, I can crank out a dozen a day and they look pretty good. https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/2016/12/22/sliding-lid-pencil-boxes/
  11. Jim Harvey

    Old planes

    It is an early Stanly 113. I have one just like it. It is missing blade and cap obviously, the knob on the front and handle at rear which Blood and Gore says is frequently broken. Mine is also missing rear handle but looks like yours has the broken casting filed smooth. You can still use it if you wear a glove on right hand. Yours has no rust so is worth keeping if you can find the blade parts.
  12. Scioto was a second brand of Ohio Tool Works. They used wood with slight defects and sold them cheaper. Supposedly Scioto had the same quality iron as Ohio Tools.
  13. Research "Keen Kutter" and "Simmons Hardware".
  14. I'm using a 30 degree primary bevel and hone at 35 degrees. Prying chips out of a mortise will break a 25 degree point..
  15. That would be a great Apron Pocket plane.