woodbloke

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About woodbloke

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    https://www.facebook.com/WiltonWoodwork

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    Salisbury, United Kingdom
  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinet making, general woodwork

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  1. The first thing I finished last month was this 'Cabinet of Curiosities' and I thought you lot on the other side of the pond might want to have a swift gander at it. It's based on an interpretation of contemporary Korean furniture, much of which contains a drawer(s) suspended mid-way in a framework with fresh air above and below: It's been made from English Elm and the thing that determined the overall size was the solid 'waterfall elm' back panel: ...which was the starting point for the project. Jointing on the frames was by using 4mm ply strips running in grooves the length of each section. The top and bottom of the cabinet: ...were made from 16mm MR mdf and 2mm bandsawn veneers glued in the vacuum bag; the accent details at the top were made from Indian ebony. The drawer box and front; ...were made from bandsawn veneers of 'waterfall' elm, again with accent detailing in Indian ebony. The lower and upper frames were domino'd together with ebony detailing to highlight the join and the lower frame is fractionally bigger by 2mm to add additional 'weight' to the design. The drawer itself: ...is made from 7mm thick quarter sawn English oak with a planted drawer front which was screwed into position. It runs on a centre rail underneath the wide muntin and has a solid elm bottom running in oak drawer slips. This arrangement makes the drawer more complicated to build, but much easier to fit as the sides don't need to fit or even touch the framework. The finish is a couple of coats of mat Osmo-PolyX with organic Swedish beeswax polish over the top. There are six polished, 6mm shelves, one of which is occupied by my better half's impulse buy from the Tokyo Skytree. The second piece which was finished a short time ago again has an oriental feel to it, being a small Japanese display unit which is almost identical to one we saw in Kyoto before Christmas. The hoops are made from laminated American cherry... ...in two semi-circular halves, so that each could be passed through the Jet 16-32 drum sander to bring them to a thickness of 15mm. They were then joined by a spline cut on the router table and cramped in a Bessey band cramp to make the complete circle. The rails between the hoops were made from small pieces of cherry which were doweled in place using 15mm bits of 3mm bamboo BarBQ skewers. The shelves were very, VERY tricky to cut and fit but it was made easier as the whole thing was built over a full size 1:1 plan in exactly the same way as you'd go about building a model aeroplane from balsa. Essentially, I started from the right angle shelf in the top left 'corner' and worked clockwise until the last one was glued in position. Finish was a couple of coats of oil with some more Swedish wax over the top. The final pic... ...shows the scale with each of the compartments containing a little object. In case you're wondering what the strange object is in the lower lhs, it's an elm fruit bowl made from one of the wheels of a cannon which once trundled across the lower gun deck of HMS Victory in Portsmouth, and may well have seen action at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
  2. Please excuse my ignorance here Rob, im just trying to learn. So if I understand correctly, the reason to do an applied front is to make the fit of the drawer box appear tighter to the case than it actually is? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Correct. Although the drawer appears loose at the sides (because of the gap) it actually slides really smoothly on the single central rail. Screwing the fronts on also means that if required, the horizontal partitions between each don't need to be seen. This would be needed if the complete front, top to bottom, was in a matched veneer with an intricate pattern.
  3. Thanks for all the nice word, it's much appreciated. The following pic shows the rear of the chest of drawers in American cherry, before the back was fitted: You can clearly see the centre rail and muntin. This means that you simple make a box that slides over the muntin and the sides don't actually touch the case work; they can clear it by around 0.5mm or so each side, it's not crucial. The front is then screwed in place and can then be fitted really close: ...to around 0.15mm, which isn't too difficult to achieve. The drawers are more complex to make this way, but much easier to fit - Rob
  4. As I haven't posted for while, here's a few more pieces that you might be interested in: A eight leg cabinet in elm and bandsawn elm veneers, 5 drawers behind the book matched doors. Drawers veneered in bur elm with a centre rail, which means that the fronts are applied. A small box in English walnut, made for my brother's 60th as a surprise present. The handle was carved in the solid from the front rail. A chest of drawers in American cherry, again with centre hung drawers and applied fronts, which can be seen in one of the pics. Ebony drawer pulls and Cedar of Lebanon bases. A Nakashima 'Mira' box for my daughters 30th, in English oak, ebony and holly for the box dividers' Another box made last year for my daughter's 29th...she likes my boxes! This one in some spectacular Turkish walnut, dovetailed at the corners, lid handle carved from the front rail. An older cabinet in English walnut which was originally on an ash stand which didn't suit it, so I remade the stand in walnut. ...and no, this is not one of mine, but I'm making my own version of it for my wife. Mine will have 14 drawers and will be made in English oak for the skeletal frame and English walnut for the drawers with ebony drawer pulls - Rob
  5. What you can't see on the front view is that one of the rear legs is an identical and opposite match for the front LHS one, so there ought to be a complete book matched pair at the front. Unfortunately not, owing to yet another goof at gluing up time …c'est la guerre. Look at the rear view and you'll see it - Rob
  6. Recently finished with a new stand in English Walnut: …with back panel detail: The stand has raised and rounded stub tenons, wedged with Indian Ebony: Interior shot: …showing the drawer unit and back panel, with a close up here: …of the unit itself. Drawers look entirely conventional, but all have 'Quaker Locks': …and one has two secret compartments, with one being shown here, hidden within one of the dovetails: …a little compartment big just big enough to stash a row of uncut sparkles! The sheel pin is shown at the other end and is used to push open the little drawer. Comments welcome, good, bad or indifferent - Rob
  7. I've met Karl at one of the woodworking shows here in the UK. Just for the record, the correct pronunciation of his name isn't Holtey, but Holttie, as in the item of clothing you wear with a decent suit. Also for the record, his planes are considered to be the absolute pinnacle of the planemaker's art…Rob Lee, of Veritas has loads of Karl's creations. I've used a few over the years... …this one being a low angle No92 belonging to David Charlesworth. They're truly exquisite things to use and hold, but in terms of performance, they're not much better, if at all, than a decent, well set up LN or LV plane. But then why drive a Rolls Royce Phantom to get from A to B when a Citroen 2CV will do the same job?
  8. Nice to see that my sawdusty efforts have inspired someone else to have a go…crack on! Handles and pulls, although usually small are (for me at least) one of the THE most difficult parts of a project to get correct. In most cases, it's the first part of a job that the user will touch and as such, the eye is naturally drawn to it. My general rule of thumb is now to keep drawer pulls as small and unobtrusive as possible with the caveat that they must still be 'fit for purpose' i.e.: allow the user to pull the drawer open. It's also good to make them from an accent material, I usually use Indian Ebony or African Blackwood, but never too much or it will tend to look a bit 'fussy'. Here's the little drawer pull: …from a cabinet that I'm just about to finish. The drawer front is English walnut and the small rectangular pull (which blends in with the overall theme of the cabinet) is in Indian Ebony and I've done exactly as you've suggested above, which is a small finger recess on the underside…quite difficult to do unless you've got access to small scribing gouges. Whatever you do, don't add a handle from a shop as it will almost always look like what it is…an added on, bought handle - Rob
  9. Will do Graham...there's always the Yandles show in April/Sept which is a bit closer to your neck of the woods - Rob
  10. Same here but we've recently had the European Woodworking Show at Cressing Temple. Difficult and probably unwise to draw comparisons, but the EWS was certainly very, very good - Rob
  11. If you can read that, you've been to Specsavers recently...
  12. From the look of the girlie (pin-up or early Pirelli calendar?) peeking over the shoulder of the guy on the rhs, it could be late 20's or early 30's - Rob
  13. Now I've retired I'm finding that the throughput of jobs is getting quicker so I'm glad you guys across 'the big wet' like my efforts. The next piece is a replacement stand for a cabinet finished a while ago and after that it'll be a large cabinet on eight legs, made in Elm...I do however, have a fantastic piece of Turkish Walnut (originally destined for a London gun maker) that has 'box' writ big all over it. Intrigued though by a ''can o'whoop-ass on yo ass!" Semantic enlightenment required! - Rob
  14. A tricky little job, made for a client of Derek Jones, the editor of Furniture & Cabinetmaking. Indian ebony and faux suede. Each piece had to be made, fitted, polished and assembled separately so that there was no contamination of the suede material. Corner detail. An 'L' shaped mitred corner... ...with 2mm veneer on the bottom and 3mm on the top. Size around 600x480mm, finished with clear French polish and wax - Rob