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About woodbloke

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Salisbury, United Kingdom
  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinet making, general woodwork

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  1. The first thing I finished last month was this 'Cabinet of Curiosities' and I thought you lot on the other side of the pond might want to have a swift gander at it. It's based on an interpretation of contemporary Korean furniture, much of which contains a drawer(s) suspended mid-way in a framework with fresh air above and below: It's been made from English Elm and the thing that determined the overall size was the solid 'waterfall elm' back panel: ...which was the starting point for the project. Jointing on the frames was by using 4mm ply strips running in grooves the l
  2. Please excuse my ignorance here Rob, im just trying to learn. So if I understand correctly, the reason to do an applied front is to make the fit of the drawer box appear tighter to the case than it actually is? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Correct. Although the drawer appears loose at the sides (because of the gap) it actually slides really smoothly on the single central rail. Screwing the fronts on also means that if required, the horizontal partitions between each don't need to be seen. This would be needed if the complete front, top to bottom, was in a matched veneer with
  3. Thanks for all the nice word, it's much appreciated. The following pic shows the rear of the chest of drawers in American cherry, before the back was fitted: You can clearly see the centre rail and muntin. This means that you simple make a box that slides over the muntin and the sides don't actually touch the case work; they can clear it by around 0.5mm or so each side, it's not crucial. The front is then screwed in place and can then be fitted really close: ...to around 0.15mm, which isn't too difficult to achieve. The drawers are more complex to make this way, but much easier to fit - Rob
  4. As I haven't posted for while, here's a few more pieces that you might be interested in: A eight leg cabinet in elm and bandsawn elm veneers, 5 drawers behind the book matched doors. Drawers veneered in bur elm with a centre rail, which means that the fronts are applied. A small box in English walnut, made for my brother's 60th as a surprise present. The handle was carved in the solid from the front rail. A chest of drawers in American cherry, again with centre hung drawers and applied fronts, which can be seen in one of the pics. Ebony drawer pulls and Cedar of Lebanon bases. A Na
  5. What you can't see on the front view is that one of the rear legs is an identical and opposite match for the front LHS one, so there ought to be a complete book matched pair at the front. Unfortunately not, owing to yet another goof at gluing up time …c'est la guerre. Look at the rear view and you'll see it - Rob
  6. Recently finished with a new stand in English Walnut: …with back panel detail: The stand has raised and rounded stub tenons, wedged with Indian Ebony: Interior shot: …showing the drawer unit and back panel, with a close up here: …of the unit itself. Drawers look entirely conventional, but all have 'Quaker Locks': …and one has two secret compartments, with one being shown here, hidden within one of the dovetails: …a little compartment big just big enough to stash a row of uncut sparkles! The sheel pin is shown at the other end and is used to push open th
  7. I've met Karl at one of the woodworking shows here in the UK. Just for the record, the correct pronunciation of his name isn't Holtey, but Holttie, as in the item of clothing you wear with a decent suit. Also for the record, his planes are considered to be the absolute pinnacle of the planemaker's art…Rob Lee, of Veritas has loads of Karl's creations. I've used a few over the years... …this one being a low angle No92 belonging to David Charlesworth. They're truly exquisite things to use and hold, but in terms of performance, they're not much better, if at all, than a decent, well s
  8. Nice to see that my sawdusty efforts have inspired someone else to have a go…crack on! Handles and pulls, although usually small are (for me at least) one of the THE most difficult parts of a project to get correct. In most cases, it's the first part of a job that the user will touch and as such, the eye is naturally drawn to it. My general rule of thumb is now to keep drawer pulls as small and unobtrusive as possible with the caveat that they must still be 'fit for purpose' i.e.: allow the user to pull the drawer open. It's also good to make them from an accent material, I usually use Ind
  9. Will do Graham...there's always the Yandles show in April/Sept which is a bit closer to your neck of the woods - Rob
  10. Same here but we've recently had the European Woodworking Show at Cressing Temple. Difficult and probably unwise to draw comparisons, but the EWS was certainly very, very good - Rob
  11. If you can read that, you've been to Specsavers recently...
  12. From the look of the girlie (pin-up or early Pirelli calendar?) peeking over the shoulder of the guy on the rhs, it could be late 20's or early 30's - Rob
  13. Now I've retired I'm finding that the throughput of jobs is getting quicker so I'm glad you guys across 'the big wet' like my efforts. The next piece is a replacement stand for a cabinet finished a while ago and after that it'll be a large cabinet on eight legs, made in Elm...I do however, have a fantastic piece of Turkish Walnut (originally destined for a London gun maker) that has 'box' writ big all over it. Intrigued though by a ''can o'whoop-ass on yo ass!" Semantic enlightenment required! - Rob
  14. A tricky little job, made for a client of Derek Jones, the editor of Furniture & Cabinetmaking. Indian ebony and faux suede. Each piece had to be made, fitted, polished and assembled separately so that there was no contamination of the suede material. Corner detail. An 'L' shaped mitred corner... ...with 2mm veneer on the bottom and 3mm on the top. Size around 600x480mm, finished with clear French polish and wax - Rob