woodbloke

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Everything posted by woodbloke

  1. The first thing I finished last month was this 'Cabinet of Curiosities' and I thought you lot on the other side of the pond might want to have a swift gander at it. It's based on an interpretation of contemporary Korean furniture, much of which contains a drawer(s) suspended mid-way in a framework with fresh air above and below: It's been made from English Elm and the thing that determined the overall size was the solid 'waterfall elm' back panel: ...which was the starting point for the project. Jointing on the frames was by using 4mm ply strips running in grooves the l
  2. Please excuse my ignorance here Rob, im just trying to learn. So if I understand correctly, the reason to do an applied front is to make the fit of the drawer box appear tighter to the case than it actually is? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk Correct. Although the drawer appears loose at the sides (because of the gap) it actually slides really smoothly on the single central rail. Screwing the fronts on also means that if required, the horizontal partitions between each don't need to be seen. This would be needed if the complete front, top to bottom, was in a matched veneer with
  3. Thanks for all the nice word, it's much appreciated. The following pic shows the rear of the chest of drawers in American cherry, before the back was fitted: You can clearly see the centre rail and muntin. This means that you simple make a box that slides over the muntin and the sides don't actually touch the case work; they can clear it by around 0.5mm or so each side, it's not crucial. The front is then screwed in place and can then be fitted really close: ...to around 0.15mm, which isn't too difficult to achieve. The drawers are more complex to make this way, but much easier to fit - Rob
  4. As I haven't posted for while, here's a few more pieces that you might be interested in: A eight leg cabinet in elm and bandsawn elm veneers, 5 drawers behind the book matched doors. Drawers veneered in bur elm with a centre rail, which means that the fronts are applied. A small box in English walnut, made for my brother's 60th as a surprise present. The handle was carved in the solid from the front rail. A chest of drawers in American cherry, again with centre hung drawers and applied fronts, which can be seen in one of the pics. Ebony drawer pulls and Cedar of Lebanon bases. A Na
  5. What you can't see on the front view is that one of the rear legs is an identical and opposite match for the front LHS one, so there ought to be a complete book matched pair at the front. Unfortunately not, owing to yet another goof at gluing up time …c'est la guerre. Look at the rear view and you'll see it - Rob
  6. Recently finished with a new stand in English Walnut: …with back panel detail: The stand has raised and rounded stub tenons, wedged with Indian Ebony: Interior shot: …showing the drawer unit and back panel, with a close up here: …of the unit itself. Drawers look entirely conventional, but all have 'Quaker Locks': …and one has two secret compartments, with one being shown here, hidden within one of the dovetails: …a little compartment big just big enough to stash a row of uncut sparkles! The sheel pin is shown at the other end and is used to push open th
  7. I've met Karl at one of the woodworking shows here in the UK. Just for the record, the correct pronunciation of his name isn't Holtey, but Holttie, as in the item of clothing you wear with a decent suit. Also for the record, his planes are considered to be the absolute pinnacle of the planemaker's art…Rob Lee, of Veritas has loads of Karl's creations. I've used a few over the years... …this one being a low angle No92 belonging to David Charlesworth. They're truly exquisite things to use and hold, but in terms of performance, they're not much better, if at all, than a decent, well s
  8. Nice to see that my sawdusty efforts have inspired someone else to have a go…crack on! Handles and pulls, although usually small are (for me at least) one of the THE most difficult parts of a project to get correct. In most cases, it's the first part of a job that the user will touch and as such, the eye is naturally drawn to it. My general rule of thumb is now to keep drawer pulls as small and unobtrusive as possible with the caveat that they must still be 'fit for purpose' i.e.: allow the user to pull the drawer open. It's also good to make them from an accent material, I usually use Ind
  9. Will do Graham...there's always the Yandles show in April/Sept which is a bit closer to your neck of the woods - Rob
  10. Same here but we've recently had the European Woodworking Show at Cressing Temple. Difficult and probably unwise to draw comparisons, but the EWS was certainly very, very good - Rob
  11. If you can read that, you've been to Specsavers recently...
  12. From the look of the girlie (pin-up or early Pirelli calendar?) peeking over the shoulder of the guy on the rhs, it could be late 20's or early 30's - Rob
  13. Now I've retired I'm finding that the throughput of jobs is getting quicker so I'm glad you guys across 'the big wet' like my efforts. The next piece is a replacement stand for a cabinet finished a while ago and after that it'll be a large cabinet on eight legs, made in Elm...I do however, have a fantastic piece of Turkish Walnut (originally destined for a London gun maker) that has 'box' writ big all over it. Intrigued though by a ''can o'whoop-ass on yo ass!" Semantic enlightenment required! - Rob
  14. A tricky little job, made for a client of Derek Jones, the editor of Furniture & Cabinetmaking. Indian ebony and faux suede. Each piece had to be made, fitted, polished and assembled separately so that there was no contamination of the suede material. Corner detail. An 'L' shaped mitred corner... ...with 2mm veneer on the bottom and 3mm on the top. Size around 600x480mm, finished with clear French polish and wax - Rob
  15. ...or buy a signed copy at the European Woodworking Show. Which I didn't - Rob
  16. No1. A decent bench or very firm work surface. if you haven't got that your'e on a long hiding to nothing. Your bench is a tool and it's probably the most important one you have - Rob
  17. Usually called 'dust boards'...I fit them (where appropriate) into the stuff I make, but I veneer the ply panels as well - Rob
  18. Nice to get a recommendation from Graham. Note to any potential readers...the Blokeblog is a record of what happens in my 'shop, for good or ill and shouldn't be taken too seriously. If it makes smile and you find it interesting, then my purpose has been achieved - Rob
  19. Osmo Poly-X (matt) is the best finish I've used by far. All my stuff (apart from this cabinet) have been finished with the stuff and it goes on well...two very thin brush coats are all that's needed, light de-nib with worn 320g paper between them and let each dry for a min of eight hours (or overnight) and it's as tough as old boots. Don't however, make the mistake of putting on a thick, gloopy coat as it then becomes very hard work to polish afterwards. I use a coat of wax over the top (applied with 0000 wire wool) just to de-nib the final coat and give a slight lustre at the same time onc
  20. Get hold of a piece of 4mm gash Perspex (acrylic plastic) and grind an edge like a marking knife on it...use the disc sander. Works a treat...free and gratis - Rob
  21. The finish is Fiddes Satin Hardwax Oil...a cross between a traditional oil and varnish, followed by a good coat of wax. Not as good as my favourite which is matt Osmo Pol-X, not sure if you can get this in the US. Glad you like the arrows...it's a useful technique to highlight certain features that otherwise might be lost in the pic - Rob
  22. One thing I should point out about this job in case you haven't already spotted it. On the inside of the door, top left hand corner there's a lighter triangle of wood. This is a slither glued on from the opposite side (so no more than 15mm away) as it was apparent when I was planing the concave side of the door that I wasn't going to have enough material to get out the shape. The grain matches on the infilled slip, but the colour (surprisingly) doesn't and I'm hoping that over time the two will blend together - Rob
  23. Nice piece for a first attempt. The overall dimensions of the legs seem too 'heavy'...I would have made them slightly slimmer, though I'm not a big fan of tapered legs. Very 'old school, very 50's' but that's just me. The drawer front grain looks OK but as Eric has mentioned, choosing material and the way it 'flows' is crucial. Good points raised about the top as well. Always remove material from the end of a board until all the splits and defects have gone...it's then safe to use and as has been suggested, turn it through 90deg and make a chamfer on the underside. This will help to reli