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wtnhighlander last won the day on March 30

wtnhighlander had the most liked content!

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  1. People who marvel at the pyramids of Egypt have never met a woodworker with a new (large) tool. There is ALWAYS a way to "Git 'er done!"
  2. Nice solution! I enjoy hearing how other folks solve problems with what they have on hand. Always a new trick to learn.
  3. Thanks, Dave! Its great to have the guy who REALLY knows the answer to chime in!
  4. Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.
  5. The profile of this edge is a big part of the design. I'm at the final stages of sanding, trying to keep the top edge as crisp as possible. How much would you guys "break" the top edge? It is about 80* to the top face, and very crisp at the moment. I want to keep the crispness, but not have it feel too sharp, since it is the edge that will be most felt when the table is in use. I'm thinking a light tough with 320 on a sanding block. That sound reasonable to you?
  6. If you find the overload tripping even with light cuts, wax the bed. And by light, I mean LIGHT. For wide boards, I take no more than 1/32" per pas.
  7. Are the drawers 22" wide, and only 14" deep (front to back)? If so, the design itself is going to fight you with racking problems. To reduce racking in a drawer with thos proportions, tolerances must be small, which leads to binding when the wood moves with humidity swings. If it isn't too late in the process, I would change the design to 4 drawers that aren't so wide. Otherwise, wax the sliding components liberally. Or use steel ball bearing drawer slides. No judgement from me.
  8. @Spanky, do you ever cut any black locust?
  9. If the lid is too fragile to handle the suggested processes, why not sculpt the box edges until it matches? A ever-so-slightly curved line where the two meet is far more difficult to notice than a gap.
  10. I think if you start with mineral oil, stay with it. It takes a loooooooong time for it to 'dry out' enough to be comfortable with a curing finish over it.
  11. Mineral oil or nothing, for now. Maybe salad bowl finish later. I wouldn't use any film finish that might lift away from heat / moisture and flake off into the dough.
  12. Wish they had cropped off the crack shot at the end...
  13. It is true that a curing oil finish can be repaired in place, but for a high-traffic surface like a table top, it offers little protection. Poly is the usual go-to for such, but maybe you would like Rubio Monocoat better. It appears to leave a very natural surface appearance, but is reported to be quite durable. No personal experience, just sharing what I've heard.
  14. Just heard an old-ish episode of @thewoodwhisperer Fiday Live show, where Marc addressed the topic of non-drying oil finishes. I'm reasonably certain he said Walrus oil is similar to mineral oil, in that it does NOT cure. I would only use that on bare wood, and only expect it to look like, well, wet wood.
  15. Did he actually invent the thing, or just make it popular on YT? I recall when some guy living in Japan(?) asked his permission to manufacture them from metal parts.