wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 22

wtnhighlander had the most liked content!

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About wtnhighlander

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    Moderator
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com
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    TN
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    Assorted

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  1. wtnhighlander

    Wood Drawer Runners

    Derek, the frames you pictured are open, but do you ever include panels to close them? One pet peeve of mine is that drawers without full seperation of jam each other if one is over-filled, or contains an odd shaped object that can turn and wedge itself. Fully seperated drawers at least limit the jam to a single drawer.
  2. wtnhighlander

    Floating desk supported by french cleat

    At that length, you can potentially attach to 3 studs on standard 16" centers. But only 2.5" of depth (and bearing surface against the wall) is a severe mechanical disadvantage against 24" of width. Lag screws into the studs would probably hold the desk with no difficulty, but there is the potential to add hundreds of pounds of a person leanung or sitting on it. Angled braces would be good, either below or above the desk. In keeping with the modern, technical design you described, I might consider suspending the front corners with aircraft cable, to the ceiling or wall.
  3. wtnhighlander

    Real Shaker Workbench on CL

    That bench looks like the garage worksop its in was built around it.
  4. wtnhighlander

    Pecan wood

    For what it's worth, Jay Bates recently built a Roubo-ish bench of all hickory. It is lovely to look at, but he says it is murder to chop mortises on. Hickory (and its close cousin, pecan) are very hard, and resilient. The springiness makes for great axe and hammer handles, but provides a lot of "bounce" when hammered against. Jay says his left hand gets numb from holding the mortising chisel when using the hickory bench, but not on his other bench, a Roubo-ish model of SYP. However, a hickory or pecan bench should last several lifetimes.
  5. wtnhighlander

    Buying a router plane.

    Dang, if that chest didn't place, I can't imagine what the winner must have looked like!
  6. wtnhighlander

    Turning Bloodwood (Satine)

    Bees wax works well on end grain, or any other grain orientation. The "Howard's Cutting Board" products at my lical retailer are simply beeswax and mineral oil blends, heavy on the oil. With a simple double boiler on your kitchen stove, it is easy to melt beeswax and blend in mineral oil to any consistency you like. Some folks also blend it with linseed oil, but I would recommend using raw linseed (flaxseed oil) and heating it the old fashion way to help it cure. Commercial "boiled linseed oil" contains metal / mineral dries to make it cure. Personally, I tend to agree that cured finishes are safe for food contact. But perception goes a long way, so any item I make for another person, that is perceived as being intended for food preperation, will get a finish that NO ONE can argue is unsafe.
  7. wtnhighlander

    HELP need repair ideas!

    I'm going to agree with @Bombarde16 on this one. Examining your photos closely, the table top appears to be a slab of softwood or particleboard, laminated on the bottom with a fake woodgrain veneer, and the pattern boards on top are essentially pallet planks. Materials cost to completly replace the top would be less than $120 in my neighborhood. Plenty of good repair options provided above, I wish you luck going forward!
  8. wtnhighlander

    Weathered wood finish

    Thanks, guys. @davewyo I hadn't heard of using hydrogen peroxide and mortar, but that sounds like it would leave a grittiness like the samples I was shown. Is that mixture caustic? Seems like it might have reactivity similar to lye, another aging / coloring agent I have used. FYI, the staff has settled on "antique french breadboards" as the product the want. Pinterest is full of them. Some round, some rectangular, with assorted handle styles. The kicker is that those made from multiple boards are usually held together with a couple of tapered sliding dovetail keys that span the width. Oh, joy.
  9. wtnhighlander

    Sapele Resawing and Planing

    I would sticker AND clamp or weight it down. Boards that thin will very likely try to move, but you might be able to restrain then until the moisture equalizes.
  10. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    That's nice holly! I don't know of anyone that uses it on a regular basis, partially because of the cost. Folks that do period reproduction furniture like it for stringing and inlays, but a little goes a long way.
  11. wtnhighlander

    Desk drawer help

    Turn on a lathe, then saw in half?
  12. wtnhighlander

    Guitar repair

    Agree, looks like just finish. Shouldn't interefere with playability to leave it as-is. Personally, I'd lean toward a full strip and refinish, but that's just because I'm not good at spot repairs!
  13. wtnhighlander

    Turning Bloodwood (Satine)

    I like to add beeswax on cutting boards and other utensils, after a mineral oil soak. The wax shed water better than MO, keeping the surface in good shape longer. And it smells good.
  14. wtnhighlander

    Arts and Craft Sideboard

    Looking great, Chet! I'm stealing that drawer alignment technique...
  15. wtnhighlander

    Weathered wood finish

    I know, trendy isn't really the thing around here, but I have been volunteered to help out a work training program for disabled / special needs young adults. They need me to do the power tool work for making "decorative" cutting / serving boards and trays. The students do the sanding, finishing and packaging, then sell them to raise funds for the program. They want at least part of the batch to be "antique, weathered" style. In other words, sloppily built and grey as driftwood. Any of you know a technique or product for producing the grey color, that is: 1. cheap 2. fast / easy 3. safe for these folks to handle. These individuals are NOT severely disabled, they may have minor physical restrictions, but mostly learning or behavioral disorders. They are expected to enter the workforce at program's end, although many may not achieve full independant living. I'm looking into the usual iron acetate and baking soda methods. Meets the cheap and relatively safe criteria, fast and easy is questionable. Any suggestions are welcome.