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wtnhighlander last won the day on January 11

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    : West Tennessee
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  1. Most security devices are only good for keeping out honest folks.
  2. To float, or not to float ... that is the question.
  3. Yes, two 7-1/4" circular saw blades. Smallest diameter blades I had on hand, and they are kind of flimsy, so I stacked two for stiffness. A dado stack is even better, but mine is 8", and a little large for this job. A six-inch stack would have been great.
  4. Worst injury of my adult life resulted from opening a blister-packed toy train, late at night, in a hotel while on vacation. Bled all over the hotel towels, and spent 6 hours waiting at a walk-in clinic the next morning. By the time I saw a doc, she said my thumb should have been stitched, but had waited too long. Spent the next 3 weeks with it wrapped in steri-strips and a splint. Stupid human-proof packaging...
  5. @gee-dub, does that router bit have a name? Better yet, a mfg. and part #? I can't recall seeing a profile like that before.
  6. @MattCRNA, it sounds like you could benefit from those DC hose quick-connects that Izzy Swan is developing, or something like them. I find that a short piece of pvc clamped to the hose works well, slipped into a mating pvc coupler adapted to each tool, but Izzy's connectors probably seal better.
  7. Those remind me (vaguely) of some walnut and green cloth furniture my parents had when I was a kid. I think it was called 'Danish Modern' at the time they bought it, since they were still in 'mid'-century!
  8. Not really. Around here that product briefly gained a new name, and a new reputation as a GAURANTEED cure for headache....
  9. Blame that on the "Cylenol" killings from the Chicago in 1982. Major changes to all sorts of product packaging occurred as a result.
  10. I dunno about 'necessity', but it was interesting to try. Certainly, if you have access to a lathe that is large enough for the job, use that. By ALL means, use that. But if you have something of greater diameter than your lathe can swing, this type of jig seems like a viable option. To use it 'safely' with the table saw really requires that the jig be built like a Bridgeport mill, big and beefy. And it would probably work better if all the movements could be controlled from above the table, reaching under to elevate the blade was a real pain. But by that time, the jig would essentially
  11. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I'm writing a novel. So, step one is to determine how much blade I can expose without cutting through my blank. Note the sharpie lines transferred around the edge are to facilitate centering the blank over the blade later. With just under 2" of thickness, I want to max the blade exposure at about 1 5/8" for hollowing the bowl, because I want a small "foot" on the bottom. Let's do that first. The foot needs a recessed center, so the bowl won't wobble. I think 3/16" is deep enough, and that exposes a 'cord' of 1 7/8" along the blade. Works
  12. Welcome, Neal! No help on the veneer question, but you are one of only 3 people I know that spell their name that way. The others are my dad, and my son (middle names). I'm a Tennesse boy by birth, but lived in Forest City, NC for a spell, 3 decades ago. How are things over on the steep side?
  13. Did you previously mention running the 2 boards "bookmatched" together across the jointer? That will cause the error along the length to be doubled. A board will "belly" in the middle when the infeed is not co-planer to the outfeed. Specifically if the end of the table nearest the cutter is lower that the other end. Or any infeed support you might be using for ling boards.
  14. @gee-dub, do you use a pattern to establish those nice waves?
  15. Coop, I gave up long ago, and started just ripping the Band-Aid wrapper down the middle. The bandage inside (usually) remains undamaged.