wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 15

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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  1. I like vertical storage, so much easier to pick through the stock. Helps if you have high ceilings....
  2. wtnhighlander

    Sabre

    Some of the guys like to spray water borne poly. The downside (or maybe upside) is that it adds no warm amber tones to the wood. Not set up to spray, but I find Minwax wipe-on easier to get right than Arm-R-Seal.
  3. @James Wright released a video on a couple different designs of those a month or three ago. They do look like real work....
  4. Another variation, if you have more clamps than wide scrap boards, is to sandwhich each half of the circle between two skinny cauls, like good old 2x4s. Clamp them tightly, them clamp across the joint, catching these clamps on the ledge formed by the cauls. You'll need to clamp above and below, slowly increasing the pressure evenly on each side, or the piece will fold at the joint.
  5. Cliff, I know mistakes can be discouraging, but perserverance is what its all about. You are doing great!
  6. For a simple date, I would print the characters in a nice font and size, glue the paper to tge wood, and remove the printed area with a router, freehand. Clean the edges with a chisel or knife, as needed. Spray in some black paint or dark stain, then sand the surface clean to leave the characters dark.
  7. Looks really cool, but I would think the saw cuts under tension would tend to split over time. It would be interesting to see how that Seth Rolland guy's stuff holds up.
  8. Are you sure? Need to test that theory one more time?
  9. Wait, now I'm confused. This represents slats, or the whole side?
  10. I think it will look weird with slats unless they are quite small. But then it won't look as much like A&C. I think I would test three small / thin slats, and just leave them off if it looks wrong.
  11. I would go back to your plan for attaching the puzzle sections to 2'x4' pieces of masonite or plywood. 1/8" seems a bit too thin, but 1/4" should be enough. Instead of simply butting the edges together, and lapping the seams with 1x2 on the back, use 1x4 boards, and glue some 1x2 on edge down the center of each board to form a T rail. Frame the edges with more 1x stock, then attach 1/8" sheet goods to the back to form a torsion box. Arrange the back so any seams avoid aligning with seams on the front. This will make a very rigid, fairly light-weight platform, and you can add any decorative frame you like. If its worth your time, you can plane the 1x stock thinner to reduce the weight and thickness. With a little more internal bracing, 1/8" sheet on the front will work, reducing the weight even more.
  12. You mean this jointer? Scarier.
  13. It helps others (wife, client, etc...) visualise, too. I use it mainly to assist with dimensioning complex objects that must fit a space, like cabinets or built-ins, and for trying out different joints before making the first cut.
  14. Correct blade depends on the job being done. The 'maximum' blade will depend on the saw. If the wheel is 1/2" wide, I suspect the saw should support a blade at least 3/8" wide. Straight cuts need a wide, stiff blade, curves like a narrow blade. Theoretically, the maximum blade width is limited by how much tension the saw frame can manage, not necessarily the wheel width. The crown of the (properly alagned) wheel keeps it from running off.