wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on November 16 2019

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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  1. There is anotger option, although most of us don't consider it a good one. Seal the surface with shellac as @Chestnut said, then apply a gel stain. Gels are made for this sort of work, they are thick and sort of opaque. Like mud, in other words. But if hiding the grain to get the color works for you, its an easy way to go. Remember to finish with polyurathane, lacquer, or similar protective top coat.
  2. Wow, I never knew 'Skywalker' was an Aztec name!
  3. That photo is a bit limited, but looks like maybe it was originally finished with a colored wax that has worn off? It doesn't look scratched or gouged, as would be expected for a stain to wear that much. Fading seems unlikely as well, if the bench & chairs have been in the same environment. Or perhaps the original color was just a stain product with no protective top coat. Anyway, matching the color will be quite difficult. Best bet for color match is to strip and refinish everything. Barring that, I would try blending stains to match the color, and follow with a polyurathane top coat. Use the underside of the table top to test colors. Also, since the original finish is a mystery, either strip the top to bare wood, or seal it with shellac and use gel stain. Shellac will bond to most all finish products, preventing the new stuff from being 'rejected' by the possibly-incompatible old finish.
  4. A 940 rpm motor would yield around 1500 inches per second blade speed over 32" wheels, with no reduction. I'm sure there are pulleys involved, you will need that ratio to determine the appropriate motor rpm. Is the power grid in your part of the world 50hz? If so, that 940 rpm rating will likely be listed as 1000 rpm on a modern motor. It used to be common to see full load speed ratings, now I see no-load ratings more than not. Regarding the wheels, would modern tires like these work? I'm not familiar with that saw, but most folks seem to prefer urathane these days. Soak them in hot water and they will stretch over the wheels without too much effort.
  5. Speak for yourself! Mine is 16 yrs & 327k miles, still going strong!
  6. Just so you know that finger-painting isn't my only design tool, here are a couple views of the model currently under consideration: I call it 'ToadStool'. The base in this design is weighted for stability. Gold is red oak, red is cherry. FreeCAD includes no textures by default. Now the question is if I should incorporate 3 leveling feet under the base, or just rely on the compression of the rubber footpad material to prevent rocking. The floor is stained concrete. Pretty smooth, but you know...concrete. @BillyJack, your concern is noted, but the 2-layer top will be joined with screws only, in slotted holes to allow movement. I'm confident the results will be stable enough.
  7. Is there anything special about the motor mount on a Unisaw? If not, a general purpose motor might work. This is a close match, electrically: https://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/electric-motors/1-hp-agricultural-farm-duty-motor-68288.html
  8. I don't suppose there is any chance of piercing the partion and coming straight out of tge saw to a more convenient location?
  9. Inspirational! Chairs of any kind are a hurdle I have not developed the confidence to leap!
  10. It was standing dead for a while, I assume?
  11. Sorry, I have no experience or knowledge of that species, other than the fact that they grow to enormous girth. If the piece is 'very old', perhaps it is as dry as it will get, and the almond oil recommendation was more as a way to keep the wood looking fresh? Personally, I would prefer to use mineral oil, as almond oil can turn rancid. As a simple way to treat wood that sees little wear and tear, 'butcher block conditioner', a blend of mineral oil and beeswax, seems to do a good job of keeping the wood from looking dry, better than oil alone.
  12. Two questions: 1. Is your sander connected to a vacuum? Removing the spoil is key to sanding efficiently. 2. Are you starting at a low enough grit? Saw marks can be pretty deep. Don't be afraid to start with something like 40 grit to get the surface level. Work up in small increments, and your sanding will be much more effective that trying to start finer. I have a Dewalt 120v single speed ($69-ish) and a Kobalt 24v with variable speed ($79-ish). The variable speed can really help, especially in the finer grits. Keeping the heat down helps the paper, AND the interface pad, from wearing out too quickly.
  13. Have to ask, what was the drying process for that slab / cookie? Getting one dry without cracking is a challenge!
  14. Boo does not take life as seriously as that photo may suggest!
  15. No experience with that species, but if the piece is actually carved from a solid trunk, it likely has large thick areas that are still losing moisture. Checks are a natural result of uneven moisture loss. Cleaning without removing 'patina' is sort of an oxymoron. Much of the patina is made up of dirt and biologicals that cleaners are meant to remove. I'd try a mild cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap. As for refinishing, perhaps a drying oil (boiled linseed, tung, etc...) could slow the drying process enough to minimize checking. Hard to guess how it will penetrate, since the piece was treated with almond oil, which never really dries. For raw wood, the old-timers advise applying linseed oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year forever. Mop on liberally, until it stops absorbing, then wipe away the residue. Some porous woods will 'weep out' excess oil during the first heavy application period, which should be removed.