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wtnhighlander last won the day on June 3

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About wtnhighlander

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  1. You'd think that since I have a machinist's rule marked in 128ths of an inch, it would be easier to find one with tenths of a millimeter! On a more serious note, anyone ever tried to restore a rusty metal rule? I have several with enough "patina" as to make them difficult to read. I'd like to clean them up, darken the steel with gun blue, and refresh the engravings with white paint. I have one that came in that color scheme, and it is vastly easier to read.
  2. Now THAT is a different story. Spray could seal around all the edges well enough to prevent moisture intrusion.
  3. I doubt PlastDip would be practical to pour over large machine tables. Maybe.
  4. There is a very good chance that a coat of shellac could save you a lot of work with the stripper. Especially if the surface isn't heavily saturated with the oil. Tru oil cures more like poly or alkyd varnish than linseed oil does.
  5. Perfect! I must have overlooked the earlier link. It would be nice if it was considered reusable, but at that price, disposable ain't too bad. Or retainable for duplicating a project.
  6. I have a router of similar vintage. I suspect the only value it retains is sentimental, since it belonged to my grandfather.
  7. I usually prefer to cut joints on the table saw, but box joints are the one case where the router table does a cleaner job, IMO. The jig is the same design, but needs to be sturdy to resist twisting as the router bites in. A spiral cut bit might help that, but I haven't tried one.
  8. Short of scraping away a large amount of surface material, I fear you will not get the oil out of red oak. The large, open pores of red oak tend to soak oil finishes deeply. No idea how Titebond stands up to Citristrip, but my guess is it would be ok. What do you want to change about the finish? You might get away with applying a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac, then your preferred finish over that.
  9. Veneered ply sounds like a good choice to me!
  10. Condensation might be an issue. I would certainly coat the exposed steel or iron surfaces with a rust inhibitor if the machines will go unused through the winter. And make sure the roof doesn't leak.
  11. Looks like sanding has a good chance of making that piece disappear. Agreed, let it go.
  12. +1 to what Mark said! Regarding the saw table top, HD is pretty good about refunds and exchanges, IMO. But the chances are spotty that a replacement will be much better. Be prepared to replace it , live with it, or put in the elbow grease to flatten it yourself. Also, I would consider removing (at least loosten) the trunions from the top before acting to correct anything. It may be that the structure attached under the top is not properly assembled, and has placed it in tension, resulting in the warp you measured.
  13. Derek, you may have mentioned this before, but what is your preferred method to avoid splintering the ends when planing across end grain such as that? Do you start from each end and work toward the middle, or is there another way that works?
  14. Slick! But still has all those silly numbers on it ....