wtnhighlander

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com
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    TN
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  1. I think the furring strips to stand the shiplap off of the drywall is an acceptible idea, but would consider some sort of insulating material to deaden the hollow wall sound Coop mentioned. Rather than bury a conduit inside a space only 1" deep, I might use some extra strips of that 2x4 to form a channel behind the shiplap, several inches wide, and pull the wire through that. Never know what size connector the next generation of signal cable might use. If you are adding a power outlet, I WOULD use conduit for that.
  2. Two great examples of CNC woodworking

    Why, oh why, can I only Like this once?
  3. Chisel Sharpening

    For really coarse stock removal like that, go to the nearest Harbor Freight and grab this set: https://m.harborfreight.com/3-piece-2-inch-x-6-inch-diamond-hone-blocks-36799.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot provided Abuse them as needed, toss when (if) they wear out. They are a bit small for honing the bevel with a guide, but fine for the back. They actually work pretty well, but 'fine' is only 360 grit. I don't recommend the 4-sided diamond block they sell, the plastic block falls apart easily.
  4. Best finish for Slabs outside

    Old saying is that log cabins used black locust as the sill plate because it lasted, on average, 2 years longer than stone. Possibly no finish needed at all. Cremona did that ginormous slab patio table from white oak, used CPES and Epiphanes, the pictures I saw after two years were indistinguishable from fresh finish.
  5. Why do sheets of wood veneer vary so much in price?

    If getting square cuts from you TS isn't working, how about clamping your straight edge guide across the 22" width of ply and routing across with a 90* V-bit? Lowering the bit until it just passes through cuts both sides of a miter at once. You still need a reliable way to square the straightedge guid across the ply.
  6. Pure Lee Valley Tung Oil waxy finish

    How old was the product? I agree with @C Shaffer , one day is a pretty short cure time for a pure oil product. Makes me suspect the container may be contaminated or perhaps past its shelf life. No idea what shelf life should be for that stuff, though.
  7. Pure Lee Valley Tung Oil waxy finish

    What os the brand of 'tung oil' you used? Unfortunately there are many products callung themselves 'tung oil finish' that are no such thing.
  8. Bessey K clamps

    I have 2 of those Irwins. Took some experimentation to determine how to hold the jaw to slide it open and shut, but once I figured that out, they seem to work well enough. Have to agree, though. The yellow ones are just a different color.
  9. Lifting gear and slabs to above-garage shop

    Well, the OP isn't chiming in with clarifications or comments, so I will. Maybe I misread the post, but I interpreted it to mean he (she?) was moving to a place configured as described, not building it. If I were building such a space, I would seriously consider some sort of jack / lift / hoist system INSIDE the building, through a trap door between the lower garage and upstairs shop. Might kill 2 birds and install a car lift downstairs with a little extra range ...
  10. Water stained window sills

    I think you will need to strip the entire surface of old finish in order for the new finish to go on evenly.
  11. Why do sheets of wood veneer vary so much in price?

    @Dolmetscher007 , what sort of tools do you have available? Knowing what you can work with, perhaps we can suggest was to accomplish this with hardwood ply or solid wood. I can see doing it with a circular saw, long T-square / straightedge, and a router with 2 bits. Or a circular saw, T-square, and a drill.
  12. Lifting gear and slabs to above-garage shop

    Q1. How heavy? Q2. Why not a rented lift? What you describe sounds like the perfect application for an extable-boom forklift. I can guarantee that the money spent on the rental, even hiring an operator, is well worth the peace of mind over some home-built contraption that will try to kill you, and probably cost as much as the lift rental. Q3. If a lift is out of the question, can you disassemble things into pieces you can carry up the stairs? Q4. If all the above fail, my suggestion would be to obtain a large stack of timbers. Railroad ties are ideal, but 4x4 posts or landscape timbers can work. create a perfectly level base layer (8'x 8' to go 8 or 9 high), put your heavy on top, and use a car jack to raise it one timber at a time, jenga-style. Yes, this will take a while, but IMO is safer than a jury-rigged crane hoist. And the weight you lift is limited only by the jack you use.
  13. Coffee Table build

    Paul, that color is wonderful! The garnet shellac really puts the richness back into the fumed oak. I always see the raw fumed wood as a bit grey and lifeless.
  14. Why do sheets of wood veneer vary so much in price?

    I'm not a veneer guy, but I suspect the fact that you are buying veneers in 48 x 96 inch sheets has a lot to do with your pricing. I've only seen people use veneers in more lumber-like sizes, marbe 8 to 12 inches wide. Have you tried pricing such sizes, to see if the total adds up to what a giant sheet does?
  15. Endless oak

    Today I made this: While planing the planks for the table top. Even after removing that pile of shavings, they are a solid 8/4 thick. This is the rig I put together to support these beastly planks. This, with a little hand plane work on the high spots, let me get away without using a jointer. Good thing, as one of these boards would probably crush this dinky benchtop model. I have seriously entertained the thought of clamping these planks to the side of my bench, and using this jointer upside-down like a hand-held model, to do the edges. Its certainly lighter than the oak!