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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 22

wtnhighlander had the most liked content!

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  1. wtnhighlander

    Plant stand

    I like the colors you chose, and the fact that it is simply clear pine. We tend to overlook how much original shaker furniture was made from pine, and how much was painted. You've done a fine job of highlighting both features. Care to share your milk-paint process? Finishing techniques are always a hot topic here.
  2. wtnhighlander

    Shaker huntboard

    Looking good. I like the clean, simple shaker designs. They really emphasize elegence in execution.
  3. wtnhighlander

    Church Alter plans

    @rennerw almost any table style can work for that. Those I am most familiar with are around 5' long x 2' wide, and standard dining table height, about 29 to 30". The base is usually "farmhouse" style, with short stretchers between the legs at each end, and a long center stretcher between those. The only non-structural stylistic element that seems common is a scripture carved into the front apron.
  4. wtnhighlander

    Where’s Roy?

    But Steve, all Roy's tools are aleady cordless!
  5. wtnhighlander

    Drill press table lift

    Nicely engineered!
  6. wtnhighlander


    Lots of the stuff comes thru Amazon, you just have to know where to look. Harry Epstein is a good place to find quality tools at a good price.
  7. wtnhighlander

    Box Joint Aggravation

    By exact, I mean the kerf slips over the key without any "play". A "tight fit" implies interference between the key and the walls of the kerf. That interference require compression of the wood fibers in order to put the joint together.
  8. wtnhighlander

    First time milling!

    Spanky, I watched one of those 'timber sports' competitions a couple weeks ago. Those racing saws are downright scary! Anything that can go from not running to cutting three cookies off a 24" log in less than 5 seconds deserves respect.
  9. wtnhighlander

    live edge coffee table build

    @higtron a coarse flap disk will remove stock as fast as the Kutzall medium grit carbide power carving disk that I have. The only advantage of the carbide is longevity, and a dished profile that lets you gring hollows. You should be able to use a flap wheel for those breadboards, no trouble.
  10. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Goat on a rope. Nature's Roomba for the yard.
  11. wtnhighlander

    Box Joint Aggravation

    They "key" to this style of jig is to first make your spacer / key stock exactly fit the dado kerf. Cut a clean kerf in a piece of scrap, and use it to gauge the size of the key. DO NOT try to measure the width of the dado stack itself - it always cuts wider than you think. This same jig format works with a router table, too.
  12. wtnhighlander

    Minwax Wood Hardener

    I doubt it will absorb into non-rotted pine very well, except on the end grain. Please report back if you try it - I am always happy to be proven wrong on my speculations!
  13. wtnhighlander


    If you are using a tape measure, marking with a knife is pointless. As you pointed out, the resolution is too low for accuracy. I usually reserve knife marks for hand-cut joinery, that is gauged from an existing part, not measured with a rule of any kind. For machine-cut parts, stop blocks are awesome. I use a steel machinist's rule that has scribed markings down to 1/128" to set the block, then the block sets all subsequent cuts.
  14. wtnhighlander

    Did I Rub Too Much?

    A finish rubbed with 1000 or 2000 grit paper will be very dull. It won't regain much of a sheen until you reach much finer abrasives. There is also a chance that the finish has not cured to full hardness. In that case, no amount of polishing will help. The woodgrain appears to have a good deal of texture to it. If so, I think achieving the "hand-rubbed" look will be difficult to do evenly. My guess is that you will need a thicker film to start with. @K Cooper had a good suggestion, and I second it.
  15. The problem with the thick legs is that the interior moisture content is difficult to determine. Also, thicker material can create more force as it collects water and swells. My best suggestion is to do what you can to stabilize the moisture in the legs. @wdwerker often mentions taking a daily measurement of the object's weight, until it stops changing. Requires time, but should be a good indicator. Then seal EVERY SQUARE MICRON of all surfaces to help slow moisture transfer. You won't stop it, but you can buy yourself some tolerance for short-term swings. Assuming the need to use knock-down brackets as shown above, be sure to drill correctly sized pilot holes for the lag bolts. All these actions will minimize the chances of the legs cracking or splitting.