wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 5

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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    TN
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  1. Fooled me. I was guessing a really fancy branding / stamping tool.
  2. I'm with Drew on this one. Dado shims are a pain in the neck. If I had the space, I would love to have a dedicated dado saw.
  3. I didn't watch both videos, but in your comment, you indicated these tests were with mortise and tenon joints, which are a cross-grain glue application. In the seat blank for the chair, it is a long-grain glue-up, which is supposed to be stronger that the wood itself, and has shown to be so in my limited experience. In that situation, I fail to understand the advantage of using dominoes, dowels, biscuits, or any other device. Just curious what I might be missing.
  4. This sounds like a case where it is better to use an easily renewable finish, rather than attempting to make it damage-proof. I would consider a finish designed for butcher blocks. It won't offer much protection for scratches, dings, and scorching, but is easy to repair when damage does occur. Pour-over epoxy is pretty durable, but salt is abrasive enough to scratch it, and may react chemically like the poly seems to have. Heat is problematic with almost any finish, but the butcher-block finishes essentially push the heat limit to the wood itself. Hot pans can certainly scorch the wood, but probably at higher temps that the poly or epoxy can take. Maple can endure temps over 220 F for extended periods before color change is noticed. There are high-temperature epoxies that withstand more, but most are not clear.
  5. Frank, I see three cathedrals across the width. This seems to indicate a panel of glued boards, or possibly still a veneer. What am I missing that made you say it looks like one board?
  6. @Chestnut, is the soil particularly sandy up there, or just looking light-colored in those photos? Nice work on the clearing. Like Dave said, its a lot more work that folks realize.
  7. BLO does not "re-hydrate" dry wood, it only forms a mildly protective barrier against the penetration of dirt and water. It also adds a warm amber color that looks good on some species, and horrible on others. If the wood you are using is punky, so dry and rotted that it feels like a sponge, then infused resin stabilization is about the only way to make it suitable for building. Since this requires a vacuum chamber and an oven, stabilizing larger pieces isn't practical. If the wood you are using is hard enough to shape into joints and hold a screw, its fine. Attempting to saturate the wood with BLO will only result in a piece that 'weeps' oil for weeks or months. Voice of experience....
  8. We've all been looking for that woman!
  9. @Jonathan McCully, congratulations! Buying your first home is an amazing experience, I wish you the best of luck throughout the process.
  10. As one who has yet to attempt this chair, let me ask an ignorant question... Do the dominoes really help much in the seat glue-up? From what I can see, it looks like a simple set of cauls should hold things in algment well enough. Am I totally missing something?
  11. Does the glue interfere with finish? If so, will hide glue work in a vacuum bag? As I recall, hammer veneering uses hide glue on the outside face to lubricate the hammer, but hide glue is supposed to be 'transparent' to finishes, so no harm, no foul.
  12. Initial review of my just-purchased 1617: I like it. The plunge is smooth. Fixed base can be mounted in a table, and has adjustability from above the table. Rocker switch is not as convenient as a trigger, but the variable speed controller ramps it up smoothly. The flip-down chip shield is handy. Cons: It has (of course) a different base mount hole radius than any of the 5 other routers I own, so none of my other base-mount accessories fit. Neither baseplate in the kit accepts a guide bushing out of the box. Bosch offers a boat load of accessories, none of which (of course) are included. Overall, it seems to be a nice machine. If you only had one router, this one is flexible enough to cover most needs.
  13. You know your sharpening skills are improving when your block plane shave away half the thickness of your fingernail, and you don't even notice. That was planing into the nail.
  14. That's a nice machine, and a very nice stand! You mentioned wheel chocks, which reminded me of a clever solution I saw Mattias Wandell using. Rather than install casters on every stand, he used a 'piano dolly' platform on wheels. He constucted his tables / stands such the the bottom stretcher was about 1" higher than the dolly. A pair of L-shaped levers were used to raise the item on the dolly for moving. Here is one example:
  15. Wow, I would live to have that much power in a DC! The air flow drawn in by that machine has to go somewhere. If your closet is sealed, the effect will be similar to blocking the blower, and you will greatly reduce the effectiveness. I think you need a vent system, perhaps with baffles to muffle the noise, that returns the air to the work space, or to outdoors, assuming there is ventilation to allow the removed air to be replaced in the workshop. For the compressors, which need air for cooling, you can either include a vent fan to draw air in while the compressors run, or just run the DC to keep air flowing.