wtnhighlander

Moderators
  • Content Count

    10,479
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

wtnhighlander last won the day on April 5

wtnhighlander had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5,668 Excellent

About wtnhighlander

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 01/01/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.mrmccormickmakes.com
  • Twitter
    @mrmccormickmake

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    TN
  • Woodworking Interests
    Assorted

Recent Profile Visitors

9,636 profile views
  1. wtnhighlander

    A Roubo from beams?

    Looks like a bench you can really work on! Curious about the center gap and stop. Is it photo distortion, or did you make it extra wide for a particular reason?
  2. wtnhighlander

    who else wants carbide rod for burnisher?

    A longer stick is certainly easier to hold and use, but to be honest, before I got a carbide burnisher, I used the carbide edge of a worn-out flush trim router bit, and it worked just as well. Just harder to hold.
  3. wtnhighlander

    Newbie from Washington State

    Welcome to the party! That's a nice sewing station you have there.
  4. I assume this is the scarf cut that is used to tilt the head stock backwards? If so, ditch the saw jig. Mark the wood leave the line, and use a router sled as suggested, or a variation of this hand plane thicknessing jig. (one of many videos). You should only need to clean up one side, the other gets flipped around and glued to the surface you just made, right? In fact, the jig can me constructed to hold the work such that you can saw and then plane without removing it.
  5. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    @Bmac does cutting in the winter give you much of a head start, since the sap supposedly retreats to tge root system when the tree os dormant?
  6. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Rickey, why is oak air dried first? Is it prone to self-destruct if you load it into the kiln green?
  7. wtnhighlander

    Midcentury Modern TV Stand

    Looks great! I see another familar piece or two, as well. Nice work.
  8. wtnhighlander

    Design Opinions requested

    Hard to tell from the sketch, but the top and middle sections are seperated by a shelf, yes? What is the specific requirement that leads you to raise the upper false door with the top, rather than separating them? In regards to folding that false door up under the top, consider it carefully. Double movements like that are difficult to keep aligned under frequent use. One way to do it, without resorting to complicated lid-stay hardware, would be to embed magnets in the top edge of the false door, and mating magnets in the bottom surface of the lid. Simple hinges behind the false door allow it to fold against the lid, but the magnets will snap it rigidly into place when closing up. Perhaps a weaker magnetic catch could keep the door flat against the lid while opened.
  9. wtnhighlander

    Design Opinions requested

    This piece has very specific requirements, so some typical design rules may have to be ignored. Regarding the game board / box storage in the lower case, you can eliminate the clearance issue mentioned by @G Ragatz by making it as a shallow drawer with a tall drawer front, rather than a swinging door. In that case, I suggest eliminating the narrow shelf in the back, or incorporate that storage nook into the back of the drawer. With full- or over-extension drawer slides, it will be much easier to access.
  10. wtnhighlander

    Need Table saw fence recommendation

    Are you planning to fix the saw permanently into the work table, or keep it easily removable? If it will remain stationary, you can build a fence, or just a rail system to support a commercial fence, and attach it to the table. The saw itself doesn't appear wide enough or sturdy enough to support direct attachment of any commercial fence system I am familiar with.
  11. wtnhighlander

    Charles Neil Finishing class

    I'd suggest a multiple pronged attack. Sand the surface to a higher grit, 400 or even 600. This helps 'burnish' the end grain pores of the blotchy areas, allowing them to absorb less color. Use a seal coat, thin shellac or the like. Sand again AFTER sealing, at least the highest grit. Most stains will appear much smoother after this, but may require more applications or longer soak time to achieve the shade you want. Consider a tinted shellac to darken or color-shift before applying a clear top coat. Many say to flood the surface with stain, wait a few minutes, them wipe away the excess. I prefer to use a folded rag and work the stain into the surface, 'wax on, wax off' style. Seems to be less waste, and I see the results immediately.
  12. wtnhighlander

    concerning chisel and dado/groove sizes

    @walidantar, mind if I ask what is your native language? Your english seems fluent, except for some of these woodworking terms, which I assume are somewhat new to you. As for your questions about dovetails, using a wider chisel to remove waste simply provides more surface to register against the reference line, making it easier to keep a clean, straight line. Narrower chisels work, but are more difficult to keep straight. There are many solutions to dovetail layout. I suggest watching some Youtube videos from Rob Cosman and Paul Sellers. They each have several videos that demonstrate their preferred techniques. There are many others, as well.
  13. wtnhighlander

    concerning chisel and dado/groove sizes

    Tenon cheeks, for one. rabbets, too. Anything done with a plane can be done with a chisel, although with less consistency.
  14. wtnhighlander

    Wood movement question of a seat

    This is an interesting problem, with good solutions already provided. I believe this is the first "hall tree" style bench I have seen that DIDN'T incorporate the base section as a storage chest, with the seat as a hinged lid.
  15. wtnhighlander

    concerning chisel and dado/groove sizes

    In a real low-budget situation, I'd start with a 1/4 or metric equivalent "bench" chisel. You can always make a bigger hole with a smaller chisel, but it doesn't work the other way around. I prefer longer irons, because I tend to pare more than pound. Second, I would invest in a quality 3/8 mortising chisel. Quality, because you WILL pound the crap out of it. MY Robert Sorby was a bit pricey, but it takes a beating and retains an edge like you wouldn't believe. Last, a 1" chisel, this one really is for paring, so long iron, or even a crank-neck, is worth considering. Also, keep in mind that seldom-used sizes can be made from old chisels that are a bit wider. A bench top belt sander is great for taking material off the sides without overheating too quickly. Hit the flea markets and garage sales for beaters that you can customize.