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wtnhighlander last won the day on November 22

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    : West Tennessee
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  1. I have a set of the brass bushings from HF that Mick mentioned. They are actually quite good, but do not come with any sort of insert, so you need one designed to accept the PC style bushings.
  2. ... and don't use a film finish at all. Nothing, or just a simple oil finish that soaks in.
  3. Here in the US, for sure. But I once stayed in an Italian hotel where the bath was about 6' x 6', entirely tiled (even the ceiling), with a floor drain and no shower curtain. Topped off with a 220 volt hair drier hard-wired to the wall. Nothing at all scary about that, right???
  4. Regarding cutter life, it makes sense to refer to lineal or square feet. But technically speaking, the entire volume of material 'passes through' the machine, so board feet is a proper measurement. But does either measure truly illustrate the work done? Maybe we should state machine activity in terms of bushels of shavings produced.
  5. That's pretty cool, I've never seen a full vintage shooting / chuting system like that.
  6. Talk to your local paint supplier, like Sherwin-Williams or PPG. Getting a good finish is as much about the paint as the applicator. The box stores will generally sell you anything, but my experience is that the speacialty shops are better for focussing on the needs of your application.
  7. Looks great, Chet! Any tips to share on painting the ubiquitous 1980s - 1990s red oak for a smooth finish? My kitchen is going to need a facelift, probably sooner than later.
  8. How is you mother doing, Tom? Well, I hope. Bound to be better than in assisted living.
  9. Planning to include a "pre"-filter to keep the mostly larger chips from clogging the MERV filter? Fine dust is one thing I never really notice from my planer, but it sure makes a lot of chips!
  10. Buy some new seats. After 10 years, the plastic is bound to be deteriorated from UV exposure. Does the surface feel crumbly?
  11. Tractor Supply has some nice, sturdy straps as well.
  12. I would disagree with this point. In my experience, boards that hang far over the support table are more likely to experience snipe, so long tables (or keeping upward pressure on the end of the board) are good. Long tables make feeding in/out much easier for large stock, too. Less running around to catch a falling outfeed.
  13. WonderWoman's invisible marking tools? Those are pretty slick, Derek. Nice gifts, for sure. I would like to see how you polish the cut surfaces for clarity. Also, is there a particular type or grade of material that polishes better?
  14. Disclaimer: This comment is based on hearsay, not personal experience. When rotating the carbide cutters, it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE to clean the cutter, the screw, and the surface of the head to remove ALL particulates. The tiniest bit of wood dust will prevent the cutter from seating properly, producing a mark in tbe cut. A larger or harder particle can even allow the carbide cutter to crack when tightened. If you did all that, then perhaps there is a variation in cutter manufacture? The maker of the head may have advice to offer.
  15. First, can you get by with the 1/4" enlargement? If not, I would not try to enlarge the bearing by wrapping it with tape. It might work, but chances are great that the tape would peel and ruin the cut. Better to form a metal sleeve for the bearing, if you can. Best to get a bearing of the proper size, though.