wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on September 20

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About wtnhighlander

  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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  1. wtnhighlander

    Hijack!

    I experienced a very unusual sort of 'kick-back' today. Ripping a rough edge from a board about 18" long. The off-cut was NOT trapped between the blade and fence. When the cut was complete, the waste had enough drag on the blade to slide backwards a bit, as they sometimes do. However, it was thin enough to drop into the slot of the throat plate, where it grabbed, and swung upward with enough force to give me a good stinging whack across the forearm. Then it continued into the saw, where it jammed the blade and made the throat plate jump out of its recess, before I could hit the switch. This is the perfect argument for using a zero-clearance insert, which I had been avoiding, so as to keep more air flow around the blade for dust collection. Lucky it did no real damage to me or the saw, but it certainly got my attention!
  2. I find the drill press much less nerve-wracking than a screaming router, for hogging out waste from a vessel like this. Once the middle is roughly hollowed, I added some spacers to offset the center from the edges when I re-attached them. Takes a good deal of force to close the gap. Guess my bandsaw kerf is a little wider than optimal. While the glue dried, I worked on parts for the suspension shelf to hold the tray. A dovetail is much better than just driving a screw. I hate to rely on fasteners alone, but I want this part of the structure to be removable, without leaving any visible sign. We'll see how this works out.
  3. Nice! How do you like the vise arrangement, so far?
  4. The mortar is much easier to repair, should you ever remove the chimes, but may also break out if you drill into a thin spot. Not every bricklayer is consistent with their mortar. Tapcon screws are very strong, provided you follow the directions, drilling the proper hole and clearing it of waste. Far stronger than needed for a set of wind chimes. To be honest, before I drilled into the brick OR the mortar, I would test with a removable adhesive, like "Alien Tape". Chances are good that the first place you hang it won't be where your wife wants it ....
  5. Recall that the bench includes a "valet tray" for keys, wallet, etc... Still pondering the tray support structure, and I need the tray to help visualize. So, guess what's next? I have this rough blank of cherry. The tray will be oval, and rather like a shallow bowl. Taking a page from the bandsaw box maker's book, I cut the blank apart, so I can shift sections and re-glue, to gain depth. That's all for now. Maybe more tomorrow!
  6. The face side of the beads is a different matter. If I had thought about order of operations, I would have rounded the corners first. But I rushed, didn't think, snd made a boo-boo. Time for CA and sawdust! After a little carving of the groove, it isn't so bad. The color going on this piece should hide that pretty well. Moving along, I started cutting to "cock-beaDing" that goes around the legs. I put a 45* block on a bench hook to help, but these thin pieces were pretty simple to cut. Since my marking knife won't fit in that groove, I use the marking pin stored in my combo square to punch a mark for the inside of the miter, then take it out of the groove and mark witb a knife. A sharp pull saw can really take a fine cut! So, here is the cock-beading in place. No glue yet, so the tape helps to avoid losing any small bits. Here is what the lower shelf looks like with legs attached.
  7. Beading on the bottom shelf wasn't as clear cut as the legs. Rather than try to set the V bit up in my table again, I put it in my trim router and took another pass. I also radiused the corners, just using a hand-held belt sander. Not being comfy with routing around those corners on edge, I use hand tools to carry the bead around.
  8. @Chet, it really is. My great-great uncle had owned much of that property, prior to the state acquiring it for the park. I remember, as a kid, walking across the fields from his old house, to climb the big mound. That was maybe 10 years before the state developed the existing park facilities. Many people don't know it, but Shilo National Battlfield, about 45 minutes drive from me, also contains a significant Woodland-era mound site.
  9. Cody and I made our annual pilgrimage to the 'Archaeofest', held at Pinson Mounds State Park to commemorate the culture of the Woodland-period people that built the mounds. The event was subdued, between Covid concerns and rain. Still interesting. Oh, and it is just 2 miles from my home.
  10. Chet, I have to agree. Let me clarify, though. I did not feel at risk for injury with that setup, only risk of ruining the cut. No bodyparts were exposed to the cutter.
  11. Several routing and trimming operations done tonight. This one felt a wee bit sketchy, but turned out ok.
  12. A few minutes free this morning, so I ripped some pieces for trim. I don't use a special jig, just a sacrificial push block that supports the off cut, and a featherboard. Using my smallest roundover bit, I radiused both edges of each strip. Fence required, as these were thin enough to slip under the bearing. The result. These will be ripped to width, most of them fitting into the grooves around the top end of each leg.
  13. That's looking great, Chet! Did you make that jig special for this job, or is it something you already had, and perhaps modified?
  14. That's a cool technique for the panel profile. How much dado can your arbor hold? Looks wider than what I can stack.