wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 5

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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    TN
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  1. Where I am in WTN, it was 92* and 82% humidity today. @Chestnut can brag when its cold.
  2. I don't use a miter saw anymore, but I used to have an 8" slider that could make a compound 45* across a 2x8. If that isn't enough capacity, I would consider the 12". Large moldings are one good reason for a deep cut.
  3. Don't use olive oil. It is NOT a drying oil for furniture finish. Danish oils is a blend of solvent, drying oil, and varnish. Just be sure to wipe away any excess, and let the remainder cure for a couple of days. If there are tacky spots, but no 'puddles', use rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove the tacky material. Let it dry to the touch, and evaluate. If it seems blotchy or uneven, I find that wetting the surface with more danish oil, and sanding it thoroughly with 400 grit while wet, is pretty good for blending it into a smooth layer. Remember to wipe away the excess before it starts to tack up.
  4. Coop, you know SPF 2x4s are about as hard as rigid foam insulation. I used bondo and spot putty to smooth dents, scratches and cracks all over this thing. Here is a shot before the paint.
  5. I wouldn't worry about making it any flatter. I would worry about contaminating my wood projects with oil or bits of metal left my the mechanic work. I suggest cutting a 'slip cover' of 1/8" hardboard to use for one activity and remove for the other. Use it for mechanic mode, I think is best.
  6. One thing I learned, where the 3 unspeakable "P"s ( pine, plywood, paint )are involved: Bondo is your friend!
  7. Scrollsaw and MDF. Nabbed an image from his web site, traced it to an SVG file so it would scale up smoothly. Then printed and glued to some scraps of MDF. Tedious, but not difficult.
  8. Tried my hand at spraying with my Wagner HVLP. This little computer desk is for my Dad's home office. Sorry the lighting is terrible. Anyway, it was a learning experience. Rustoleum Industrial enamel, dries slowly enough to self-level pretty well. The sprayer worked well, but I need more practice to get it smoother. Dad gave me a sketch with dimensions, and said "Just throw something together with 2x4 and plywood. I hope he appreciates that I tried to do more than 'throw' it together, although it IS just 2x4 and plywood. This side of the front panel is a surprise: I hope he likes having his signature / logo there! Dad is a painter and illustrator, lately an author. Officially retired but working about as much as ever. Hope I'm still going that strong in my 80s. If you would like to see his work, he has a gallery at www.joemccormickcountry.com. Thanks for looking.
  9. I wish I could offersome helpful advice, but epoxy casting is outside my wheel-house. For me, epoxy is just glue. One question, what is that stone you are using? Is it soft enough to cut smoothly with a carbide router bit when you do the round-over? I suppose that is one bit of advice I can offer, use brand-new cutters for the work, don't cut to full depth in one pass, and make sure the bit is free of any shmutz before you take the final clean-up pass. You want to avoid any heat build-up. Unless you want a satin sheen, you will probably get a better surface by pouring a thin topcoat and letting it self-level. Sanding and polishing back to gloss is a lot of work.
  10. Happy Independence Day to all those in the US! Happy July 4 to everyone else!
  11. Nicely done, and well docemented, Derek. I am curious, did you consider adding any support between the front ends of the drawer blades? I understand space is limited, but the open ended design seems as if it could break if the drawer were to take any significant downward force while extended. Perhaps that expectation is low enough in such a piece that the risk is minimal?
  12. Nice job! I understand about the foot board. After a long day, I want my feet to hang free, too!
  13. The bench I use is all spf 2x4 material. Its very soft, so it looks beat to crap all the time, but it holds my work pieces and stands up to pounding. If you want to use hold-fasts, I suggest that you at least buy yellow pine 2x10 or 12 stock and rip it down to size for the bench. It will dry much harder than the spf, so the hold-fast holes don't wallow out as much. I also suggest letting that material dry for 4-6 weeks to minimize movement after the bench is assembled.
  14. Nice review. Were you able to find a good deal on it, or did you pay market price?