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wtnhighlander last won the day on June 23

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About wtnhighlander

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  1. wtnhighlander

    HVLP Dye

    Nice job on the dye, Drew! Very even and smooth.
  2. Once it has "dried", it shouldn't interfere with finishing piecez at the bench. But slick surfaces aren't great for planing. Do you work with hand tools much?
  3. No direct exposure, the top was covered with a moving blanket. A BLACK moving blanket, which had me worried. But after getting it inside and uncovered, the top didn't feel hot, and the finish was still smooth and clear. Looked the same after the 3.5 hours it took to hang the shutters, what with cutting the receptacle, wiring the liggts, and making a run to Lowes for screws we didn't expect to need.
  4. Overnight. Same process on the underside, no haze there. After the underside was dry, I flipped it and took a couple of days (meaning a couple of hours after work) to sand through all grits on the top, using the lye / water mix to both raise the grain and produce the color change, between the 180, 220, and 320 grits. Allowed to dry overnight and final sanded at 320 before applying poly. That night, or maybe the night before, was when the warm front blew in, and I did not have the AC on in that work space. I'm still thinking the humidity is the culprit, it took a big jump with that front. I suppose there may have been enough moisture that soaked in from the grain-raising to be an issue, too. Just seems strange that the finish was clear 18 hours after the final coat, then started to haze around 30 hours from the final coat. I know it wasn't fully cured, but it wasn't soft.
  5. Sounds similar to what I see. The undeside of the bartop didn't show a haze, but it was finished before the warm front with high humidity moved in. I noticed a little haze after the second coat on the top side, but sanded it with 320 on the ROS, left the AC on to control humidity, and waited another day before applying more coats. After coat #6, it was all crystal clear for delivery. Waited 8 - 12 hours and lightly sanded with 600 to 800 grit between coats. My plan at this point is to have him keep the AC on all week, and evaluate after its had several days to stabilize. Then either buff it out, or add a coat. Being out on the "porch", the smell of fresh finish shouldn't bother anyone. I hope.
  6. No, just a dry cotton cloth, to see if it was something on the surface.
  7. Has anyone else seen wipe-on poly develop a haze on the surface? I'm using Minwax gloss, on a cherry counter top. The surface was clear upon delivery to the recipient, but developed thus haze after a night in its new home. Delivery was a bit rushed, so only about 18 hours had passed after the final coat was applied, but it was dry to touch after about 4 hours. Same finish applied to other parts of the cabinet, no haze. My guess is environment changes. Finish was applied after running the window AC in my small shed, after the weather took a very humid turn. Piece was exposed to 90+ degree heat and high humidity for an hour or so during delivery, then installed in a room at 70*. Not sure if he kept the AC on overnight, as the room is a sun porch, closed off from the main house. Client reported the 'haze' the following day. I haven't seen it myself, yet. Ideas, anyone?
  8. @K Cooper, I'm using Minwax. I'll start a new thread, and stop hijacking this one. Apologies to th OP.
  9. Nailed it in one. The tall bottom drawer is sized specifically for those squarish bottles used by our TN native, Sir Jack Daniel. The other two had to fall in line, or get the boot!
  10. Back to the topic of finishing, anyone else have issues with gloss wipe-on poly taking on a haze after it dries? (let's please keep this oriented to woodworking issues, shall we?)
  11. One last shot of the bar top. Client was thrilled with the color. Regarding the 'center mount' drawer slides - we chose them to save as much horizontal space for the column of skinny drawers as possible. The big pull-out for the trash can got 2. They work well enough, but the skinny drawers wobbled from side to side. So, I added hard maple spacer strips under the edges of each drawer box to keep them level and steady. The close tolerance added friction, so I used petroleum jelly (ala John Heiz) to keep them sliding smoothly. But then, what else WOULD one use to lubricate one's wood?
  12. Shot of a shutter with lights off. Cutting in the receptacle box was one of my more puckered moments this week! The shutters are attached to the wall with 'Tapcon' concrete screws, hidden behind the removable 'rails'. Eight 1/4" x 2.75" screws per shutter. Pretty sure the house will crumble before those shutter come off.
  13. Shutters, too. Having difficulty with photo uploads tonight...