wtnhighlander

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wtnhighlander last won the day on February 21

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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    www.mrmccormickmakes.com

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    TN
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  1. Agreed, but this is an oak-loving client. Cherry is just for contrast, and will receive the lye treatment that I demonstrated in a previous journal.
  2. Greetings, Kiyoshi! I hope you remain free of illness. I have not yet seen your videos, my internet connection is slow, but I am certain they are as interesting as your earlier works!
  3. My usable bit collection doesn't exceed my router motor collection by much, so storage isn't that big of a problem!
  4. Honestly, I have no idea what drying practices are necessary to keep a cookie from splitting. Painting the end grain with something to retard the loss of moisture, and being very patient is the only process I have any knowledge of. Maybe someone else will chime in with knowledge of a faster way.
  5. With auxiliary supports to hold the log level as it is fed into the saw, there really shouldn't be any limit to the LENGTH you could cut.
  6. I'll have to respectfully disagree with this part of your statement, at least for PVA glue. That stuff remains flexible to some degree for a long time, as evidenced by bent laminations that creep back toward flat over time, unless supported by the structure. And in any case, flexible or not, the glue alone can not be as strong as a glue + a fully-supported joint. I certainly can not argue that the method you describe isn't strong enough for typical use. It very likely is still stronger than necessary. I'm just pointing out that the fully-supported joint should be a good deal stronger.
  7. That method is likely to come up during the edge treatment. But maybe not, as the profile is simple enough to make with spokeshave and block plane. That router mess took longer to clean up than it did to make...
  8. Depends on how green they are. If they haven't been dried already, you will probably have pizza slices in a few weeks, instead of cookies.
  9. That's how I understood the original post. One, or perhaps a representative sample of the toys would be tested. But the OP mentioned that the toys would be subject to 'sterilization'. If he is making these teething toys as a commercial product, it seems reasonable that the end users may expect to run baby teethers through the dishwasher or boil them. In which case, I doubt any typical wood finish will hold up for long.
  10. I like that! Makes for an organized day of shooting, and looks cool as well!
  11. OK, I promised to do a journal on this, after "teasing" it in another thread. I finally got started, and am now proceeding along at my typically glacial pace. First, material acquisition. I tried a new supplier, as they are open Saturdays, which let me avoid missing work. The prices were decent, but there are a couple of drawbacks. The place is NOT a sawmill, but a "Value Added Reseller". They buy wood from guys like @Spanky and do some sort of processing to it. All their stock was S3S. I prefer rough 4/4, because my work pace means the wood has time to move between milling and assembly. If I start with rough, I have more materials to play with in case a second milling becomes necessary. Also, I had to plane it all anyway, because the thickness was not consistent. Ownership of the place in in transition. As a result, no replenishment of stock has been done for a little while. I had to scrape the bottom of the proverbial barrel to find enough cherry with color. At least there was plenty of oak. The design of the table top calls for two layers, the upper of red oak, and the lower of cherry. To account for contrary wood movement, the disks will be attached only with screws in elongated holes. The grain will be aligned so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction, which should minimize the seasonal differences in disk size and shape. The cherry disk is slightly larger in diameter to create a contrasting rim for the oak. As experiment, I tried two methods for cutting the disk. On the oak, I used a jigsaw to rough out the circle, following up with spokeshave and block plane to reach the line. (ignore the background clutter. I'm STILL transitioning into the new space!) This went pretty well. But since I just HAD to try a different technique, I went with a trammel-type circle cutting jig an a router on the cherry disk: I think I'll go back to my spokeshave. Aside from being annoyingly loud, and incredibly messy, the router setup was no faster, filled the room with smoke of scorched cherry each time I paused to reposition myself, and had a far greater potential to go sideways if the jig happened to slip. My router has no dust collection port, obviously: Now I have two concentric disks, still a little larger than intended, just in case. If smoothing and edge profiles go without a hitch, I doubt the client will argue about getting an extra inch of diameter. Next step is to smooth the disks and create the support structure underneath.
  12. I get the need to pass the government test of boiling water for 10 minutes, but I wouldn't expect ANY of these finishes to survive such treatment in actual use, any better than bare wood.
  13. wtnhighlander

    Photography

    A large format digital can be simulated now, using software to stitch multiple exposures into a single image, panorama-style. Surely someone is developing a device to take multiple, simultaneous exposures through an array of lenses in a single device, and stitch the results into a single, high-resolution digital image. With all the lenses & sensors at fixed, known distances from one another, and captured simultaneously, it seems like the stitching would be even simpler that making a panorama from serial exposures. There is already this thing for taking multiple focal lengths in one digital camera package.
  14. While I can see the logic behind @Chestnut's comment about the tenon to mortise fit, I'll have to side with @Chet on this one. Typical mortise and tenon joints are cross-grained, which is not the strongest arrangement for glue bonds. Leaving the tenon shy of the mortise ends removes the mechanical support in that direction, so that the tenon must rely solely on the shear strength of the glue when it is under strain. I believe this would tend to reduce the lifespan of the joint. I doubt that rounding the tenon or squaring the mortise to a perfect fit is critical, but I think the edges of the tenon should at least make contact with the mortise. Remember - glue is NOT the joint. A good joint holds itself together in every direction except the direction from which it assembled. Glue is only there to keep it from reversing its way back out.
  15. Not to poo-poo the styling, but those reclaimed boards are a very poor choice for stair treads. As mentioned above, they appear to be reclaimed construction lumber, very soft, and not shaped appropriately for the job. While you might be able to reduce the splintering with an epoxy coating, the best fix is to at least round over the corners.