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wtnhighlander last won the day on July 22 2018

wtnhighlander had the most liked content!

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About wtnhighlander

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  • Birthday 01/01/1965

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  1. wtnhighlander

    First time reaching out to the community! (Novice)

    Plywood, framed with hardwood, and veneered with a matching hardwood could provide an excellent desk top, and opportunity to add some marquetry style inlay. Just a thought.
  2. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    I dunno about over where Spanky lives, but my area of TN has a couple inches of "solid rain" in the forecast for tonight. Hopefully, that's our allotment for the year....
  3. wtnhighlander

    Eastern Washington area

    Hi Jack, welcome to the forum! Sorry, I'm too far to be of much help (TN). Doing the walls isn't a terrible chore, but ceilings are a challege for a single person, no matter how able-bodied. If the space isn't huge, I imagine scheduling a drywaller to do the job will be more trouble than raising the cash to pay. The good ones stay booked up.
  4. wtnhighlander

    Making a corner desk - first major project.

    If you like the heavy appearance of the legs, use them. Just beware that home center 4x4 lumber is probably not dried well, and probably contains the center of the log, which virtually guaratees that it will crack. One approach is to glue up layers of thinner stock to get the desired thickness, another is to use thinner stock to form a square tube that looks like 4x4. The limiting factor is your available tool set. What you listed above provides no easy way of making smooth cuts along the length of a board. You CAN do it with a handsaw, with patience. You'll need a hand plane, or maybe sandpaper glued to a flat long-ish block, to smooth the edge for glueing it up. Without a solid hand tool workbench, the sanding block might work better. What sort of work surface and work holding (clamps / vises) are at your disposal? There is always a way, some need more creativity than others!
  5. wtnhighlander

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    If you decide to "fill the void" with plywood, just don't use glue. Attach it with screws, tightly in the center, slotted across the grain diection near the sides. And leave a gap around the ply for the solid wood to expand / contract. A quarter inch on each side will probably be plenty.
  6. wtnhighlander

    So this happened today... New SawStop.

    I've seen high speed video of a cartridge firing. The blade came to an immediate halt, so quickly that it flexed and wobbled. The retraction happened a few milliseconds later. Looks kind of eerie in slo-mo.
  7. wtnhighlander

    sketching a simple woodworking bench

    I would say Ken's items are correct, but maybe reverse order of importance.
  8. wtnhighlander

    Roubo Questions

    Got pics? I'd like to see the small bench.
  9. wtnhighlander

    Any tips for finishing quarter sawn white oak?

    Applying a dye, then lightly sanding remove the dye on the exposed ray fleck with increase the contrast. If you want to achieve a smooth surface, consider using a grain filler. Something like Aquacoat will fill the open pores without obscuring the grain features. Aside from that, some Arm-R-Seal or other wipe-on poly is an excellent choice for a durable finishe that won't stink up you whole house. My surface treatment for oak is: 1. Sand to at least 180. 2. Pore fill as desired (optional) 3. Sand to 220. 4. Stain or dye (optional). 5. Raise grain & sand again. 6. Apply wipe-on poly. I use a folded cotton T shirt rag, moistened with mineral spirits. I do coats 1 and 2 with a circular motion to push the finish into any pores. Allow to dry until no longer tacky, sand lightly with 400. Coat 3 and above, keep the rag wet with spirits, use less poly. Wipe in long strokes, with the grain. Sand with 400 and repeat to the desired build. By the third coat, you should be able to sand in about 6 hours.
  10. wtnhighlander

    Making a corner desk - first major project.

    Those horizontal member you have across the top of the "knee hole" would be called aprons. Making them wider adds more rigidity, and adding them to the side shelves will help, too. On the back of the desk, you can use very wide aprons, or even a full back to make it very rigid. Inside the knee-hole, consider adding apron-like structures to the sides of the shelves, also. Yet more rigidity. The need for this all depends on the intended use. Unless otherwise specified, folks here are likely to advise building techniques to meet worst-case situations.
  11. wtnhighlander

    11'x4' Oak Slab Problems

    At that thickness, I'd take the reading from even a good-quality pinless meter with a grain of salt. Do you know the environment that this slab will eventually live in? I made an oak slab table with wood that was air dried 12 months, solar kilned, and acclimated to my unconditioned shop for 4 months. 6 months after going to the client's home, his dehumidifier had sucked the MC to half it's value at delivery, and the top had cupped about 3/4". Oak holds a LOT of water.
  12. wtnhighlander

    Tennessee Curly Cherry

    Worse than poplar?
  13. wtnhighlander

    Making a corner desk - first major project.

    So, you plan to cut all the parts to length with your saw. I see a few dado joints that might require some chisel work. I'd suggest figure-8 fasteners for attaching the desk top to the legs. And 2x4 stock for the upper shelf supports should be fine. Assuming you can source material that is flat and straight, this design should work, although it isn't the strongest joinery.
  14. wtnhighlander


    To reiterate: 1. Sharp tools. 2. Clean layout. 3. Good lighting. 4. Practice. 5. Cut proud, peen the end grain with a hammer.
  15. wtnhighlander

    sketching a simple woodworking bench

    The goal for any wooden construction, using cut joinery, should be to first design and form the joints so that they may be assembled WITHOUT adhesives, and the object will hold its proper size and shape, at least under the force of gravity. Tenons without shoulders provide no gauge point to register them in the proper position. You may get by with shoulders on just 2, maybe even just 1 side. But if no shoulders are used, there is a huge risk that your parts will not fit together correctly. The rail on one side will not insert to the same depth as the other side, and your bench will become an irregular polygon shape. As for any (closed) mortice, there must be space for collecting glue that isn't immediately absorbed into the surface of the wood. Otherwise, you will be attempting to compress a liquid, which will not, and the tenon will stop short by some unknown amount. We must realize that people have been working wood since there were, well, people. Plenty of time has been allowed for the mistakes to be made, and lessons learned. Don't repeat those mistakes - that is the greatest efficiency you are likely to achieve.