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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. I get the need to pass the government test of boiling water for 10 minutes, but I wouldn't expect ANY of these finishes to survive such treatment in actual use, any better than bare wood.
  2. wtnhighlander


    A large format digital can be simulated now, using software to stitch multiple exposures into a single image, panorama-style. Surely someone is developing a device to take multiple, simultaneous exposures through an array of lenses in a single device, and stitch the results into a single, high-resolution digital image. With all the lenses & sensors at fixed, known distances from one another, and captured simultaneously, it seems like the stitching would be even simpler that making a panorama from serial exposures. There is already this thing for taking multiple focal lengths in one digital camera package.
  3. While I can see the logic behind @Chestnut's comment about the tenon to mortise fit, I'll have to side with @Chet on this one. Typical mortise and tenon joints are cross-grained, which is not the strongest arrangement for glue bonds. Leaving the tenon shy of the mortise ends removes the mechanical support in that direction, so that the tenon must rely solely on the shear strength of the glue when it is under strain. I believe this would tend to reduce the lifespan of the joint. I doubt that rounding the tenon or squaring the mortise to a perfect fit is critical, but I think the edges of the tenon should at least make contact with the mortise. Remember - glue is NOT the joint. A good joint holds itself together in every direction except the direction from which it assembled. Glue is only there to keep it from reversing its way back out.
  4. Not to poo-poo the styling, but those reclaimed boards are a very poor choice for stair treads. As mentioned above, they appear to be reclaimed construction lumber, very soft, and not shaped appropriately for the job. While you might be able to reduce the splintering with an epoxy coating, the best fix is to at least round over the corners.
  5. You could always make your own. Cut lenghs of close-grained hardwood to a dovetail profile, cross cut into segments, then drill and tap threaded holes. Tapped threads hold quite well in wood, especially if the bolt stays engaged most of the time. You can always at T nuts or inserts for greater strength, if needed.
  6. wtnhighlander


    Those high-res monochromes are awesome at highlighting the texture, light, and shadow in those tightly-cropped images. This sort of thing is what makes me think of a photograph as 'art'. Well done, Gary!
  7. Looking great, Drew! Your inherited chairs are a nice compliment to the 6 you are building, too.
  8. What, you couldn't do the glue-up in the remaining 9 hours of "free time"????
  9. I sure didn't say he was juvenile....
  10. Duck, I used to use a featherboard turned backside toward the blade as a thin-rip stop. Works fine, but I got tired of having to adjust the fence after every cut. Oh, and Tamar at 3x3 may be new to the craft, but she does have a good streak of creativity.
  11. wtnhighlander


    Very surreal....I like it.
  12. That covers most of them these days, doesn't it?
  13. Duck, I cut thin strips the same as Chip. Always using a push device with a 'heel' to support the strip as it passes the blade, there has never been any hint of kick-back. If I wanted to cut paper-thin strips, I would clamp a sacrificial piece of MDF to the fence to avoid any chance of flexing the blade into the fence itself.
  14. With plywood like that, cut the dados across one large sheet before ripping into the smaller sections. That makes the outside pieces the same. For the center piece, have it already cut to width, then as you cut each dado into the side pieces, cut the dado on one side of the center, then flip it over and cut the other side. Make each cut on all 3 pieces before moving your fence or stop block to the next cut position. If using a router in hand, make the first dado across all the pieces in on pass. Cut a scrap to fit tightly in the dado, and use it to hold the boards in alignment while cutting the remaining dados, using a spacer as needed to offset the router from the alignment piece. For side 2 of the center piece, flip it over and align the ends of all 3 pieces. Use 2 scraps to fit the dados in the outer pieces, and register the spacer against them, to cut the second thru last dados in the center, then come back and get the first, spacing from the alignment piece in the second dado.
  15. The biggest changes are: Marc is more gray. Shannon is more slender. Matt has more kids. Otherwise, its pretty much the same!
  16. Try some silhouette inlays of black veneer, and use black tinted epoxy to glue them in. Hides any gaps really well.
  17. You already sanded to a pretty high grit, didn't you? 220 or higher should be ok. The very high grits discussed before were to help even out stain absorbtion, and not really needed for an unpigmented topcoat alone.
  18. Mineral spirit wipedown can help remove dust. Let it flas off before applying finish. I normally use 600 grit between coats of finish, nothing more than a brown paper bag after the final coat. Even that is overkill with satin.
  19. I recommend looking ahead at the upcoming tasks you need to accomplish, and base your jig selection on necessity. Multi-use items like a tablesaw sled, often benefit from task evaluation to determine the most-used features.
  20. Derek, I've made tapered sliding dovetails before, but mine were through-cut. Fitting stopped sockets so that the tail tightens just as you approach the stopped end seems like sorcery!
  21. Seal the drawers with a healthy coat of shellac. Should prevent the wood from interacting with the tea, and is safe if the shellac itself interacts. For the wood, maybe hard is better than soft? At least avoid anything you KNOW causes you problems.
  22. Don't take woodfinder as gospel, though. It claims the supplier nearest to me is over a hundred miles away. A lot of smaller suppliers have little or no web presence. Searching Craig's List or Facebook Marketplace can turn up some real gems, right in your back yard. And I don't mean just shadetree woodmizers, but real commercial lumber suppliers that operate by word of mouth more than paid advertising.
  23. The wipe-on poly does build a film, and will be more durable. It will also look and feel more like plastic than wood. The satin sheen will help it not look like plastic so much. Just avoid laying on more that 4 coats, unless you really need the extra protection. Moisten a clean cotton rag (old t-shirt) with mineral spirits, pour a little poly onto the surface, and wipe it around, completely covering the surface, but leave no puddles. First coat will likely require heavier application than later coats, and linger 'drying' time. It will also soak in, leaving the surface feeling almost raw. After it is no longer tacky, lightly sand with a grit at least as high as the final sanding of the wood, or higher. The following coats will require less and less liquid. By the 3rd or 4th coat, you should be using very little material to get coverage. I like to wipe on that last coat in full-length strokes, end to end, in the direction of the grain. The result should be smooth and slick, free of any drips or runs. Should be ready for light use withing 48 hrs of the final coat.
  24. wtnhighlander

    Lumber Cart

    Are you talking about sheet goods, or solid wood scraps and off-cuts? I sort my hardwood scraps by standing them on end in a bucket. Sorted by species, one per bucket. If it doesn't fit the bucket, it isn't scrap. Of course, I typically have no more than 4 species on hand at any given time.
  25. General Fishes Arm-R-Seal or Minwax Wipe'on poly are good choices. Apply over clean bare wood. Depending on the 'feel' you want, Danish oil soaks in and leaves little film unless you apply many coats. Over time, most pines will darken to a rich amber color with just danish oil. They may also darken under polyurathane, but I don't have the long term experience to confirm.