wtnhighlander

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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Hey, if anyone ever inspects closely enough to see that, just tell them it is a wedged, through dovetail, for added strength.
  2. Glenn, is your jointer a straight knife unit? The larger port should make a substantial difference, just by virtue of passing the long shavings. Added air flow is a side benefit!
  3. John, a diode laser that attaches to the Y-axis carriage can be plenty powerful enough to engrave wood and many other materials. Heavier cutting requires the higher power of a CO2 laser, much more complicated.
  4. I'm fairly certain that has happened to anyone who ever cut a dovetail, at least once!
  5. Face up lets you see what you are doing, but face down on a sturdy router table & fence can be more stable / repeatable. Its a trade-off. If you can feed the work through, no stopped cuts, I'd vote router table.
  6. Those pieces look kind of long for standing on end through the saw. Do you do anything special to make them more stable in the sled?
  7. I wish I could execute it as well as Paul Sellers did in tbe video I linked, but even as crude as mine were, the joint holds the corners tight and square. After you do the first one, the geometry of the cut becomes clear and obvious.
  8. @Coop, yes. These pieces are in the guy's bedroom, where they wanted to match the color and woodgrain of their commercial bedroom suite as close as possible. The bench incorporates the bead and molding details borrowed from the bed & dresser. The shelf design was picked by his bride-to-be, from a Crate&Barrel type catalog, and I re-scaled in to fit the allotted space. As for seeing them go, neither of these would go particularly well in my home. Since he is willing to pay for what he wants, and patient enough to deal with my schedule, I have no complaints.
  9. That weathered gray was about as much of a science experiment as the cherry lye treatment! Made me fully understand why most of you guys avoid coloring the wood, for sure. If I didn't lay it out before, it went like this: a. Apply Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner, very wet. b. Immediately rag on some Rustoleum Ebony stain to emphasize the deep grain, and wipe it back with a spirits-dampened rag. Conditioner prevent the non-pore areas from absorbing too much. Allow to dry. c. Color blend...1 part 50/50 mix of Minwax Provincial and Minwax Natural, plus 1 part Rustoleum Weathered Gray, plus 2 parts mineral spirits. Stirred, not shaken. Apply lightly and evenly with a folded, lint-free cotton rag (a.k.a. an old t-shirt). Allow to dry. d. Top coat with GF High Performance satin. Bench took 3 coats (4 on the seat), scuffing between with a maroon scotchbright pad. I really need to get a spray rig...
  10. The 'faux shutters' I built in this thread are very close in construction to what you want to do. If you want mitered corners, check the joint I used.
  11. Coop, if you ever buy a kit and use it, be sure to clean the goo off the insertion tool afterwards. If you don't pushing tbe next one in gets exponentially more difficult. DAMHIK...
  12. Holy cow, that's a lot of pups! Real cuties, though! I see why the waiting list is so long.
  13. I appreciate the kind words, all of you! Client is happy, so I guess I can be satisfied. For any newcomers who read this, never agree to match an existing finish, even on a piece you made youself and have thoroughly documented. It is guaranteed to make you pull out some hair. Also, be careful with 'clever' design features, like the suspended shelf in this piece. I came very close to 'painting myself into a corner' with that, as the design to lock the bars into place almost prevented it from being assembled. Every project is a learning experience.
  14. Had to quote, just to add a laugh to my thanks!
  15. As far as I know, they are. Quality varies, but all include a punch to clean the hole, and an insertion tool for the plug. I carry pliers for removing the offending object, and a tube of rubber cement. The cement makes the plug a little easier to push in. I also found it much easier to remove the tire, than to exert the necessary force from some odd angle when the tire is on the car. Truck tires seem to have a bit thicker tread than passenger car tires, and it takes a bit to shove the plug in.
  16. It is finished. At last! The suspended shelf leaves room on the lower shelf for a couple pairs of shoes, and a pair of tall boots, if desired. Glad to get this one done. I have to say, I am not a fan of brushing the GF High Performance poly. Dries so fast, and gets foamy in the brush if you work it too much. I'm accustomed to laying oil poly on with a rag, very thin. Does HP do better in thicker coats?
  17. White oak is a good choice, but a non-film finish is best, for sure. In humid climates, white oak tends to develop a black fungus-like stain under poly, and looks terrible.
  18. Should be a nice table when you get the base stabilized. I have a fully functional White brand sewing machine, wondering what to do with it.
  19. How long is that table? Pretty neat idea, honestly.
  20. Nice place! My only question is, why no plumbing? Tree line close enough?
  21. As many miles as I drive, I never leave home without a plug kit and a 12v compressor. Saved my bacon several times, especially when we lived in NC and made regular 1k mile round trips for family gatherings.
  22. My experience with chemical stripper, even the 'environmentally friendly' types, is always like that. I just wipe or scrape off what I can and re-apply. Rinse and repeat until it is clean. A stiff nylon brush helps with the nooks & crannies.
  23. Yeah, but on the mainframes referenced, tape was the primary storage, not inexpensive backup. I have worked with machines that used paper tape (linear version of punch cards) to load programs. Matter of fact, I've used punch cards, too. Even done some repairs on a punch card "writer" from IBM that was old enough that it used "multitransistor" modules, not integrated circuits.
  24. I see no broken corners, John. Ya done good!