wtnhighlander

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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. @Tdegan, welcome to the forum! I recall a few threads that discussed rfinishing kitchen cabinets, but nothing specifically about lacquer, at least in the padt year or so. Perhaps one of the pros, like @BillyJack or @freedhardwoods can offer some insight. The big drawbacks I can see to using lacquer for in-place refinishing (assuming spray) are masking time and off-gassing. Most of us hobby guys use a water-based paint or stain product to avoid the fumes.
  2. @Gary Beasley, how far South from Spanky's place? I don't get much call to go that way, but when corona settles down a bit, I'm considering a road trip. I have a cousin in Chattanooga that might like a visit, and another in Atlanta.
  3. It is a bit wasteful of material, but I often cut the rail stock to the full width of the the door panel. Then use the rails aligned across each end to mark the tenon shoulders. Next, lay out and excavate the mortises, gauging against the rail width to avoid over-sizing them. Once the mortice is dug out to a reasonable-looking depth, use a marking gauge to capture that depth and transfer it to the tenon, outward from the shoulder. Then saw off the extra, your rails should be a nice fit, no math required.
  4. Most security devices are only good for keeping out honest folks.
  5. To float, or not to float ... that is the question.
  6. Yes, two 7-1/4" circular saw blades. Smallest diameter blades I had on hand, and they are kind of flimsy, so I stacked two for stiffness. A dado stack is even better, but mine is 8", and a little large for this job. A six-inch stack would have been great.
  7. Worst injury of my adult life resulted from opening a blister-packed toy train, late at night, in a hotel while on vacation. Bled all over the hotel towels, and spent 6 hours waiting at a walk-in clinic the next morning. By the time I saw a doc, she said my thumb should have been stitched, but had waited too long. Spent the next 3 weeks with it wrapped in steri-strips and a splint. Stupid human-proof packaging...
  8. @gee-dub, does that router bit have a name? Better yet, a mfg. and part #? I can't recall seeing a profile like that before.
  9. @MattCRNA, it sounds like you could benefit from those DC hose quick-connects that Izzy Swan is developing, or something like them. I find that a short piece of pvc clamped to the hose works well, slipped into a mating pvc coupler adapted to each tool, but Izzy's connectors probably seal better.
  10. Those remind me (vaguely) of some walnut and green cloth furniture my parents had when I was a kid. I think it was called 'Danish Modern' at the time they bought it, since they were still in 'mid'-century!
  11. Not really. Around here that product briefly gained a new name, and a new reputation as a GAURANTEED cure for headache....
  12. Blame that on the "Cylenol" killings from the Chicago in 1982. Major changes to all sorts of product packaging occurred as a result.
  13. I dunno about 'necessity', but it was interesting to try. Certainly, if you have access to a lathe that is large enough for the job, use that. By ALL means, use that. But if you have something of greater diameter than your lathe can swing, this type of jig seems like a viable option. To use it 'safely' with the table saw really requires that the jig be built like a Bridgeport mill, big and beefy. And it would probably work better if all the movements could be controlled from above the table, reaching under to elevate the blade was a real pain. But by that time, the jig would essentially
  14. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I'm writing a novel. So, step one is to determine how much blade I can expose without cutting through my blank. Note the sharpie lines transferred around the edge are to facilitate centering the blank over the blade later. With just under 2" of thickness, I want to max the blade exposure at about 1 5/8" for hollowing the bowl, because I want a small "foot" on the bottom. Let's do that first. The foot needs a recessed center, so the bowl won't wobble. I think 3/16" is deep enough, and that exposes a 'cord' of 1 7/8" along the blade. Works
  15. Welcome, Neal! No help on the veneer question, but you are one of only 3 people I know that spell their name that way. The others are my dad, and my son (middle names). I'm a Tennesse boy by birth, but lived in Forest City, NC for a spell, 3 decades ago. How are things over on the steep side?
  16. Did you previously mention running the 2 boards "bookmatched" together across the jointer? That will cause the error along the length to be doubled. A board will "belly" in the middle when the infeed is not co-planer to the outfeed. Specifically if the end of the table nearest the cutter is lower that the other end. Or any infeed support you might be using for ling boards.
  17. @gee-dub, do you use a pattern to establish those nice waves?
  18. Coop, I gave up long ago, and started just ripping the Band-Aid wrapper down the middle. The bandage inside (usually) remains undamaged.
  19. Ronn, my son would very much like to come visit you now.
  20. Good to see yo back here, @Spanky! Mill must be pretty busy these days.
  21. Since I won't get into the shop before the weekend, I thought a post to discuss the logistics of milling hollows with a tablesaw would be in order. Without diving into a pool of mind-bending math, let's consider the geometry of the machine in relation to the work piece. I may come back later and drop in some illustrations, but for now, your imagination will have to suffice. Let's look at this as a 3-axis machine, with the saw table surface defining the X and Y axes, with blade elevation being Z. X is axial to the saw plate (left - right) and Y is radial to the saw plate, 90* to the X, so
  22. @Bmac, after you showed the milled stock and described your planned lay-up for the resawn boards, all I can see is a CBS logo! Have any wenge that you can inlay for the iris?
  23. Watch those old videos, and remember that Matt is not a large person. He can barely walk around in there.
  24. Regarding the ability to spray paint, make certain the experts or suppliers you as are aware of the type of paint, specifically. The term 'milk paint' was bandied about in earlier posts, but The Real Milk Paint company product, mixed from powder, is very different from something like General Finishes Milk Paint. As different as weak coffee and soft-serve ice cream.
  25. Well, technically producing videos about woodworking / sawmilling / building ginormous bandsaw mills is his full-time job.