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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. That's where a pair of 2'x4' tables come into play. One supports the work, the other supports the off-cut. Turn & twist, mix and match as needed to fit the cut or assembly you are working on. Like BillyJack says, it gets to be a hike, going 'round and 'round a 4x8 table all day.
  2. @gee-dub, what sort of sheet stock is that bench made from? Looks like MDF face, but has plywood layers??? And I have to ask, do you just enjoy Altoids, or do the tins perform some heretofore unmentioned magical function in your shop?
  3. Sounds like a reasonable idea, if you really need a table that large. Personally, I would find a collection of 2'x4' tables more useful, and easier to navigate around.
  4. I honestly can not think of a single time that I dropped anything through one of the dog/holdfast holes in my bench. I use them to hold chisels as much as anything else.
  5. Tom, I like the DC setup on your router. I believe you've shown that before, but I don't recall the details. Is it top collection only?
  6. I've had stored belts fail at the seams, but under tension on the machine, they last an astoundingly long time.
  7. The only finish coating I can think of that might hold up longer is fiberglass + resin, like a cedar strip canoe. Aside from that, consider incorporating a screen around the bottom to keep critters out. Genny won't help much if the carb is stuffed with a mouse nest when you open the box.
  8. The best part of this new upstart is that their demo video uses bratwurst instead of hot dogs.
  9. What, no one has used a rock from the campsite to carve their own hardwood fire piston, and fueled it with freshly-plucked nose hair as tinder? Personally, I carry a lighter when I go to the bush. But to really hone your survival skills, one should really practice making fire from whatever is lying around, once in a while. Never know when you might be stuck in an unscripted version of "Naked and Afraid"!
  10. To me, it appears that Rob uses his shoulder vise like most of us use a Moxon. His person to bench height ratio makes it work out about the same.
  11. Just make a compartment large enough to hold a cooler. To make it a "live" well, it will need an aquarium pump to supply O2, or a bilge-type pump to circulate external water through it. Although, I'd want a jon boat with a pretty wide beam for a deck like that. Those things are a little tippy.
  12. My personal opinion is that the shoulder vise is mostly good for injuring your tender bits as you walk by. I think a leg vise and a good end vise are plenty, but it really comes down to your workflow, and the type of things you make. Cosman uses his shoulder vise for a lot of hand-cut dovetails, whereas I would use my end vise, and many would use a Moxon vise.
  13. Details and drawings go into the patent application. I don't know if applications that are not yet granted are available to tbe public, but actual patents are.
  14. I have several of my Grand-dad's tools, but most of them are so worn out that they are little more than sentimental nick-nacks. Grand-dad believed that tools were for working, not saving.
  15. Coyotes eat the pears that fall from my trees...
  16. Ammonia can be applied to the surface as well, but tends to get a greenish cast that way.
  17. That looks like it would be really useful! ... if I owned a Domino...
  18. They are growing more active every year, in my neighborhood. It isn't all that unusual to catch one roaming about in the daytime anymore.
  19. In your shoes, I would probably take my chances and finish it. You might get lucky, and it will be fine. You can slow the transfer of moisture into and out of the wood by completely sealing every part of it with the poly. If the environment is stable enough, that may prevent any major problems.
  20. You might also consider just leaving the end grain uncovered. While a proper breadboard end does help hold the top flat, it will also NEVER be flush with the sides of tbe table, once the piece enters a controlled environment. Batten under the top, or a wide trestle leg structure are alternatives that hide underneath. Bare endgrain on a "farmhouse" tabletop is pretty common.
  21. The oak boards are laid in a cross-grain orientation to the pine boards beneath. Glued together, the two layers will expand in opposite directions, and something will break. The two layers play best together when the grain is oriented the same. The common solution is to fasten the layers with screws in slots, or sliding dovetails, such that expansion can occur without forcing the layers to fight each other.
  22. I use no finish on the top of my bench, as it gets planed smooth fairly often (its soft wood). The underside is pretty well coated with Titebond that I wiped off my fingers...
  23. Chemical reaction coloring, like iron acetate (vinegar & iron) or lye, work similarly to the ammonia fuming process, but produce different tones. Iron acetate leans toward gray-black, while lye is more caramel colored. These methods will produce the most pleasing results if all the wood is from one tree. Otherwise, striking variations may occur.
  24. These guys are being a bit reserved, IMO. Pine is one of the most blotchy species I've ever worked with, and early/late growth grain variation just accentuates it. You have actually done a very fine job with this table top. For future reference, clear, straight grain has far less tendency to blotch. Sanding to very high grits can reduce stain absorbtion, and thus reduce blotch. Pre-conditioners also help, again by reducing absorbtion. As @Chestnut mentioned, spraying dye, even better, a tinted clear coat, is the safest method for achieving an even color. But then, it no longer looks so mu
  25. The species compliment each other quite nicely. Lovely work!