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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Most of these suggestions will smooth the face of the end grain cut. If easing or deburring the edges of that cut are what you need, I'd suggest a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/4-Sanding-Mop-180-Grit/dp/B00SNMM6A4
  2. Another vote for rubber padding, although mine is a horse stall mat from Tractor Supply. Enough give to ease the back, firm enough to roll machinery over, and insulating enough to keep the piggies from going 'brrr, brrr, brrr' all the way home!
  3. My kitchen range is electric. Still heats the iron with no trouble.
  4. That is an impressive example of visualization! Even after seeing your initial drawings, I could not imagine how to create that on the lathe. Beautiful design, and amazing execution!
  5. The danger with lesser grades of plywood is that the face veneers will separate and peel around the recess for the inlay. Good quality baltic birch should do OK. What material do you plan to inlay into it?
  6. Here is the build thread for that bar. Not fancy, but there is some info on the electrical box arrangement.
  7. IMO answers to the questions above: 1. I don't think it matters. 2. You could attach the inside trim to both the ply and the hardwood at the inside corner. You can attach the outside corner to the ply, but not the hardwood. The trim at the end, that aligns with the hardwood grain, can attach to the hardwood. Just accept that this part will grow and shrink as humidity changes, so you need a gap between it and the plywood. And the outside corner where the trim meets will never be a perfect fit. 3. In this case, wood movement and water-tightness will likely be mutually exclusive. To get a good seal @pkinneb's solution is probably the best. For comparison, I recently built a simple bar top, with an electrical outlet in the top. To minimize the risk of spills running into the outlet, the recess for the outlet box included a 3/8" curb to raise the box above the bar surface. The curb was formed with long grain pieces on the two edges that aligned with the bar top grain, and the other two edges were from end cuts so that they matched the grain pattern and direction of the 'butcher block' style top. Everything moves in unison, so I coukd glue it solidly, and finish it without seams. It appears as of the curb is part of the block, with the rest of the surface carved away in relief. If you are making the contoured rail, milling it from blocks with grain orientation that matches the hardwood top would let you glue it up solidly. Except for the radiused front corners, that rail profile could be milled on a tablesaw and cleaned up with a block plane and scraper. The corners would probably require a good deal more hand-carving.
  8. Yes, I see the bar rail is designed to work over 2 layers of differing dimensions. You should be able to simply run screws up through the ply for that. The inside trim could be miters on the 2 inside corners, but I wouldn't miter the outside corners. Butt joint or miter, I would fasten the inside corners tightly to the bartop, but allow the outside ends to float. Is the trim meant to cover the full thickness, or just the plywood edge?
  9. When chosing the connectors, it is important to be sure the style is rated for at least the current draw of the machine. To get a twist-lock style, you might have to go with a size greater than minimum.
  10. @Bmac, all three of those chairs are incredibly beautiful! At the risk of offending anyone, can I ask if you know of a design the takes a smaller footprint? The Maloof style is pure grace, but just eats so much space....
  11. IMO, use Bar top A design. Glue the front edge and trim to both the board and the ply. Use screws up through the ply, with elongated holes, so the cherry can expand toward the back. The trim on the 'wings' could be pocket-screwed through the plywood. I would rigidly attach it to the cherry top, but perhaps use a floating spline to keep it all in alignment. Any reason, aside from cost, that you need the plywood, as opposed to solid?
  12. My boss is getting knee replacements after the new year. One of them for the third time. His current surgeon, after reviewing his case and films, 'regretted to inform him' that the previous surgeon had installed his patella upside-down. Twice. Second opinions are worth it.
  13. I'd go with @gee-dub's suggestion. Maybe try to darken the filler with some sort of brown marker first, then a sealer coat of finish, then the paints. Otherwise, a new panel, or go crazy with inlays.
  14. I like how this is shaping up!
  15. Very interesting design. What about wrapping the drawer runners across the drawer face to form full width pulls?
  16. Standing the board on edge to 'dry out' helps keep things even with water or oil. Typically, oil does not 're-hydrate' the cells of the wood to produce swelling and warping, though.
  17. The most effective (and cheapest to implement) method for protecting the finish from damage caused by sweating drink glasses is a good supply of coasters. Barring that, a durable topcoat MAY help, but nothing short of a pour-over epoxy "bar top" finish will fully eliminate the possibility. My suggestion, if coasters aren't going to work for you, is to lightly sand the surface with 220 grit or higher paper, clean thoroughly, apply 1 or 2 coats of dewaxed shellac (Zinser Seal Coat works) as a barrier coat, and after it cures for a few days, apply as many coats of polyurathane as you like. Shellac adheres to most other finishes, hence the barrier coat over the unknown existing finish. I like wipe-on styles of polyurathane, it just seems easier to get a smooth coat, without resorting to expensive spray gear. Follow directions on the can.
  18. Not a user of such exotics myself, but I hear that an acetone wash can remove enough of the natural oils to allow good finish adhesion.
  19. @Joseph W., can you help us understand why you chose those two species? As stated, they should be compatible enough, but are both rather soft for the kind of use a dining table sees. If we know more about your table design, perhaps some good ideas about how to mitigate issues arising from that softness can be formulated.
  20. Be careful what you listen to, that sounds like a good way to give youself a serious case of the ULF runs!
  21. I'd just move. Can't abide NICE neighbors that close, much less rude ones. Or maybe take a vacation and rent your house to a AC/DC tribute band for the week.
  22. Yep. Much like whittling, but the end product is more useful than 'a smaller stick'.