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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. It resembles an oak to me, but it isn't showing many definitive characteristics in the photo. A hi-res closeup of the end grain, preferably sanded to 400 grit ot higher, will allow some of the real wood ID experts here to make a good evaluation.
  2. It is possible to vary airflow by changing the speed of the impeller, but it is not a linear relationship. IMO, the most cost effective way to improve your DC performance is to list it on CL and buy a better one.
  3. I find it difficult to repeatably measure the outermost edge of the bit. What works for me is to make a small gage block by glueing two scraps together. One scrap is the 'fence' against which I place the router base while cutting a short groove into the attached piece. Distance from fence to groove is easier to measure or mark against, and gives me both sides of the cut with no math. Ross' Rule states that the percentage of error is directly proportional to the number of calculations needed to determine the measurement.
  4. I'm not familiar with any commercial brand holder, it should be simple to fashion one from stiff, heavy wire.. Buy a couple feet of AWG#6 bare copper ground wire and band it to the shape you need. Personally, I stand my iron on its head, on the eye of my kitchen stovetop.
  5. I find it better to keep a long-ish steel rule at the saw, and use it rather than a tape for setting the fence. No variation, always the same rule. And of course, transfering dimensions from the work directly is always tighter than reading a rule. Please, make a habit of unplugging the machine for any operation that requires touching the blade, or sticking a steel rule into it. Switches , especially the non-magnetic kind, sometimes fail or get actuated by accident. Murphy's law dictates your fingers are likely to be in the blade whenever that happens.
  6. wtnhighlander

    New guy

    Hey, Rocko! Glad you could join in! You mentioned starting a new business in another post, be sure to keep us updated on your progress!
  7. Slick stuff, @Rocko! Is that plain glass in the table, or textured somehow? The photo seems to show some ripples, like the glass is wavy.
  8. If the coating wears a little, you might even see galvanic corrosion form where aluminum and steel contact. That can't be good for anyone.
  9. Richard's lighting suggestions are spot on! I'll add that in a space that large, some mobile auxilliary lighting really helps, too. I make extensive use of several cheap, clamp-on work lights with LED bulbs when I'm in the garage. My smaller shed workspace is light colored and cozy, so a couple overhead fixtures do well.
  10. Wow! That's a lot of white oak, but it sure looks good!
  11. My bet is #3 on Ronn's list. If the factory edge of the cutting board had a curve, it would telegraph through the cut. Attach the plastic to a piece of plywood or other material with a confirmed straight edge, and make the cut with that known straight reference against the fence.
  12. Drew, have you tried the technique of drilling "depth wells" at predetermined locations in the seat to use as guides for the carving wheel? Might help make the result more symmetrical, even when removing bulk with a saw.
  13. Can you provide make & model of the jig, or maybe more pictures? I don't recognize that design.
  14. If you aren't familiar with forstner bit operation, I recently discovered that deep holes must be cleared of chips very frequently. Otherwise, the chips pack in behind the flute head and jam the bit like a wedge. Bad enough to require digging it out...
  15. The new forster should do ok in the hand drill. When it starts to dull at the rim is when it really tries to wander out of line.
  16. The rails of my 'roubo-inspired' bench are right at the floor, set back only about 1.5". Can't recall ever stubbing a toe, not even on the legs, which are flush with the top edge.
  17. Brad points tend to pull themselves in. Fostner is a cleaner hole, but can wander easily in a handheld drill. Make a spacer block by drilling through a scrap with the 3/8 brad point in your drill press. Make sure the faces of the scrap are parallel. Adjust the thickness of the scrap block to reveal the drill depth you need when the bit is thru the block, and the block is against the chuck of your hand drill. Straight drilling guide and depth stop in one.
  18. The Northfield is so massive, other machines in the shop must be anchored against rolling toward its gravitational attraction!
  19. This seems like a good solution. Build the inner structure of the box from engineered material that suffers negligible movement with humidity changes, including the under side. Then attach the 'lid' of the box, the show surface, with fasteners to allow expansion and contraction of that surface.
  20. Welcome! There are a couple of G1023 owners around here, and I can't think of a time any of them complained about their saws! Of course, if you REALLY meant this: " I want a well built heavy saw with a nice flat table a good fence and a lot of power", then you clearly wanted one of these: http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/4saw.htm I know I do!
  21. Those look terrific! And you just inspired me to tackle some more power carving, soon!
  22. That is shaping up to be one beauty of a bench!
  23. I cut a lot of slabs like that for firewood, back in the 70s and 80s.