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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Junk collection mysteriously expand to occupy all available storage space, much like Microsoft Windows expands to consume available computer memory. Dropping the attic as a large storage area is a good call!
  2. Nothing boring about quality work, Drew. Keep those photos coming!
  3. Glued-up panels are where I find the most need to account for wood movement. Unless all the boards are quarter-sawn, the cumulative expansion or contraction across the width can be significant, varying by species and environmental conditions.
  4. You'll be ready to fish in no time, @BillyJack!
  5. I can tell you that my 1.5 hp DC, vented outside, can pull planer shaving from the floor through a 4" hose pretty well. But when I plug in a 2" vac hose, it struggles to lift fine sawdust from the surface. Connecting the 4" hose to my saw, I still need at least the factory throat plate to pass enough air for any collection at all. Zero clearance plates kill the DC altogether.
  6. First, universal warnings like Prop 65 are kind of useless. You know the #1 cause of death in the US? Birth, as in being alive. Warning people that anything they taste, touch, smell, or look at funny may eventually kill them is quite redundant. Now that the rant is over, I would suggest (as a woodworker) that some natural wood boards, tounged, grooved, and beaded, will make wonderful wainscoat. No artifical materials needed. But the practical side of me says look for a plywood wainscoat product at the upper side of what you can afford, as cost roughly follows quality, and quality is
  7. Depends on weather exposure. I made a white oak bench with epoxy glued joints, which essentially exploded after a couple years out in the weather. YMMV with local climate.
  8. Separating ahead of the impeller has the added benefit of cutting down the number of lost screws, nails, etc.. that knock around inside the blower and cause damage. Drew is right about the 1.5" hose, DCs need flow to function, and most can generate the static pressure to draw much through that small opening.
  9. @MrMayor, I have a Ridgid saw with 1.5 hp, and run the Irwin dado stack shown here: Amazon Link It has 12 teeth on the main plates, and uses a 2-tooth chipper design. Closer to the Freud than tbe Oshlun. To me, the 8 inch diameter seems to leave a smoother cut, but requires a slightly slower feed rate to avoid bogging the saw. This stack has beefy main and chipper plates, so total mass may have some impact there.
  10. The Win10 machines I deal with are at work, and retained the snipping tool if upgraded from Win7. New Win10 installs have only included Snip&Sketch.
  11. Maple that has moisture unevenly applied can move a LOT. I once glued up a thin panel of hard maple to use as a drawer bottom, and left it flat on my workbench overnight. The next day, it looked like a Pringle's chip. I flipped it over for 12 hours and it flattened back out. Keeping it on edge from then on, it remained flat. Long story to illustrate that your table top may relax back to a flatter state, if you can balance the humidity to both sides of it.
  12. Are we REALLY sure that routers and jigs are easier than a back saw and chisel? <ducking and running> I wish I could offer some insight here, but the only dovetails I've ever cut were by hand. After a couple of times, I realized none of the recipients of the pieces I was making could care less about the existence of dovetails, so I moved on to simpler methods...
  13. Snipping tool from Win7 has morphed into some tool with a different name in Win10. For no good reason, other than "because we can", as far as I can tell. Like Drew, I use Linux far more than Windows.
  14. If the pieces are exposed to full sun and rain, I wouldn't try to fight any cracks with epoxy. Cedar is very rot and insect resistant, but still moves and checks with changes in environment. Chances are good that cracks will just open more and spit the epoxy out. A penetrating oil finish, as mentioned above, would be my recommendation, too.
  15. @Chestnut, what you described sounds exactly like the old-fashioned smokehouses that folks of my grandparents generation were still operating when I was a teen. A charcoal or wood fire, contained in the center of the floor, would be burned down to hot embers, then an occassional shovel full of sawdust tossed on to keep the smoke rolling.
  16. Same here. Post shows links, but no pics appear.
  17. Glenn, I know nothing about codes in your locale, but experience has taught me that conduit is a wonderful thing for accomodating all those shop changes that weren't anticipated prior to construction. Even if outlet locations remain the same, conduit makes it a breeze to re-pull wire for a heavier circut if needed.
  18. wtnhighlander


    Bees are fascinating! Thanks for sharing this experience, John.
  19. Rick, those bur type wheels aren't as crazy as the saw chain type, but they can still grab the work and get away from you. I strongly recommend using the side handle on your grinder.
  20. Tom, those coffers look awesome, but I bet those suckers are heavy!
  21. The link belts like @bradpotts suggested are supposed to be great for reducing vibration, and are adjustable length. Harber Freight even carries them, if you want to try at low cost.
  22. Rick, Kutzall is another disk like the one Chet mentioned. I think the Kutzall has more of a turned lip for getting under the rim of a recess, but the holes in the Galahad wheel makes it a LOT easier to see what you are doing.
  23. My Christmas gift finally arrived ... Veritas medium router plane, back-ordered 4 months.
  24. That is an awesome deal on some really nice machines! Especially with delivery included. You'll be back in business in no time.
  25. Try this: If tension (and other aspects of setup) are right, the saw will perform much better. One thing many users fail to grasp is that not all bandsaw frames are stiff enough to properly tension a wide blade, also that wide blades are not strictly necessary.