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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. I have a router of similar vintage. I suspect the only value it retains is sentimental, since it belonged to my grandfather.
  2. I usually prefer to cut joints on the table saw, but box joints are the one case where the router table does a cleaner job, IMO. The jig is the same design, but needs to be sturdy to resist twisting as the router bites in. A spiral cut bit might help that, but I haven't tried one.
  3. Short of scraping away a large amount of surface material, I fear you will not get the oil out of red oak. The large, open pores of red oak tend to soak oil finishes deeply. No idea how Titebond stands up to Citristrip, but my guess is it would be ok. What do you want to change about the finish? You might get away with applying a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac, then your preferred finish over that.
  4. Veneered ply sounds like a good choice to me!
  5. Condensation might be an issue. I would certainly coat the exposed steel or iron surfaces with a rust inhibitor if the machines will go unused through the winter. And make sure the roof doesn't leak.
  6. Looks like sanding has a good chance of making that piece disappear. Agreed, let it go.
  7. +1 to what Mark said! Regarding the saw table top, HD is pretty good about refunds and exchanges, IMO. But the chances are spotty that a replacement will be much better. Be prepared to replace it , live with it, or put in the elbow grease to flatten it yourself. Also, I would consider removing (at least loosten) the trunions from the top before acting to correct anything. It may be that the structure attached under the top is not properly assembled, and has placed it in tension, resulting in the warp you measured.
  8. Derek, you may have mentioned this before, but what is your preferred method to avoid splintering the ends when planing across end grain such as that? Do you start from each end and work toward the middle, or is there another way that works?
  9. Slick! But still has all those silly numbers on it ....
  10. Murphy's oil soap is a good, but mild, cleaner for wooden objects.
  11. I wish someone made a dry-erase, blank measuring tape. Usually, I use a tape to record the dimensions that a piece will fit into. With a blank tape, I could forget units of measure completely, and just create a spring retracted story stick each time I began a new project. Anybody want to invest in a company that produces blank tapes?
  12. Cool! Then the foam insulation on top is just the ticket. I don't have a track saw, or any DC on my circular saw, so I don't use it. That foam make a huge mess of static-clingy crumbs all over my garage....
  13. Products labeled 'dye' are intended to penetrate the wood, more so than 'stain'. The sanding sealer might be affecting absorption in a negative way. My suggestion is to sand back to bare wood. Sand to 320, even higher on any exposed end grain. Raise grain & repeat final grit. The finer sanding will reduce absorption, giving you more control. Flood the surface evenly with dye, foam brushes or spray is usually a good method. Wipe it back (with the grain) before it starts to dry, typically after just a couple of minutes. The result will probably be lighter than your target color, but multiple coats allow better control of the final result.
  14. Its pretty easy to make a support frame of 2x4 with lap joints. Breaks down easily for storage, and you can lay or screw ply panels over it for a stable work surface over sawhorses. The plastic folding horses that Lowe's sells (Blue Max???) have notches in the top rail to accept 2x stock. Makes a pretty decent knock-down work table.
  15. Ruptured gas containers are great bombs / rockets. Remember when the Mythbusters shot a water heater through a floor, a roof and 300 feet of vertical space by over-pressurizing it?
  16. Wood pricing is very regional, as supply and demand are different in different locations. I recently purchased 8/4 FAS cherry for about $3.75 per bf.
  17. This is an observation, not personal experience, but I think leopardwood looks better with a film finish, that a penetrating oil. Oil darkens the grain and reduces the contrast too much, IMO.
  18. I agree with leaving it alone. You can, of course, fill the cracks with epoxy, but that would ruin any value the piece has an an antique or as art. And be a real mess to clean up.
  19. Trust MY experience - it is much easier to make a long, flat surface with a hand plane, than with an under-sized jointer...
  20. Agree with Chet - get a dedicated rip blade, rather than a 'thin kerf' combo blade. And a hand plane.
  21. Chances are, you'll need to make multiple passes, even with a custom bit, to get a clean cut. But the custom bit will still be less prone to screw-up. Is the molding sized such that you can run it across the router table in horizontal OR vertical orientation, with equal ease?
  22. My experience with HF tools has been reasonable, but the consumables, not so much. I'd splurge on a box of brads from somewhere else.
  23. @Mark J, I have test pieces that were treated almost 2 years ago, and left without protective finish. The color is a little more brown now, but still dark and even.
  24. I consider a tape to be just good enough for house framing. When building furniture, I use a tape ONLY to cut rough dimensions. A machinist's rule is always used where accuracy is needed. And the guideline of always using the SAME rule or tape throughout the project minimizes accumulation of errors.