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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. @Dennis Designs, I'm afraid the answer is, 'it depends'. If I understand your question correctly, the minimum space needed between the wall-mounted cleats is just a bit more than the width of the mating 'hook' section that is attached to your removable tool holder, cabinet, or what have you. For example, let's take a 6" wide strip of 3/4" material, and rip it with the saw at 45 degrees. This forms 2 cleat strips that are 3-3/8" on the wide side, and 2-5/8" on the narrow side. I would space the wall strips 3-1/2" apart to allow the mating section to easily slip between.
  2. Are you avoiding the spray job yourself because of space limitations, or lack of equipment? You can certainly purchase an inexpensive HVLP rig for less than a couple cases of spray cans.
  3. @Tom King, is that 4x8 bead board paneling? Or some other product? Really dresses up the room! I see your point about 8' ceilings, though. That would be easier to see and appreciate from 9 or 10 feet.
  4. That will be a very useful tool, Collin. I'd like to have one, eventually.
  5. @gee-dub, are those fittings of the thinner-walled PVC material (schedule 20?) typically used for DC work? All I ever find at the Big Box places is schedule 40.
  6. That's too bad, Coop. I did the same thing, but flipping it over for a day exposed the other side to enough humidity that it flattened out, and I quickly slapped a backer on it. Been using the board ever since.
  7. Glad to hear that miter jig worked without kickback. I may have to 'borrow' the design!
  8. @JFII, your progress looks good. That miter cutting jig looks interesting. The idea of cutting the stock to perfect length while still square seems sound, and the stop block on the sled seems effective. Did you notice any binding of the off-cut between the block and the blade? I assume that the angle would allow the waste piece to fall free, but with a square cut, using a stop block in that manner carries a great risk for kick-back.
  9. Congrats, Paul! That is an honor, for sure!
  10. That looks like a blast, Dave! Prior to the flood of 2010, Opry Mills Mall in Nashville had a 'Stingray Reef'. Little Cody loved to go there after his quarterly visits to Vanderbilt, and pet the rays. He was always soaking wet and smelled like fish on the 2.5 hour ride home...
  11. Coming along nicely! From the photos, your work space seems to be a bit larger than a typical 1-stall garage. How did you manage to fit 3 (three!?!?) radial arm saws in there??? Is there a Tardis-like quality to your shop?
  12. To comment on @gee-dub's comment, a handheld power planer CAN be better than a thickness planer or a jointer, when dealing with large, heavy stock. Unless you have really giant machines, it is easy to hit a size point where taking the tool to the work makes more sense than taking to work to the tool. I have attempted stupid moves like this: Because the work piece was too large / awkward for the machine at hand.
  13. wtnhighlander


    Washing the car does it for me. Every. Single. Time.
  14. Have you removed anything from the non-driven end of the head yet? It looks like there is a gear on that end, which drives the pressure rollers. I'm sure it will need to come off before the head can be extracted. And it appears you are correct, the head assembly should be lifted off the posts for the head itself to clear those two flat bars rising on either side of it.
  15. @gee-dub, you should grab a sharpie and make a few 'cave paintings' before you cover the wall, just blow the mind if some future archaeologist.
  16. @BillyJack, it seems unlikely that the Flex-Seal would be reactive, once cured.
  17. @Surfer 21, I may be mistaken about the adjustment. I only saw what appears to be an adjuster on one in an image from eBay
  18. Nice work, Drew! I think the "cutting board" approach really is the most reliable way to build one of these. Since you raised it with a box structure, did you consider making ut a container for the pieces? I see a lot of folks do that, but the board seems uncomfortably tall on a box that big, IMO.
  19. Paint is really, REALLY hard to remove from oak, but I don't see any that I can positively identify. If you still see flecks in the grain, I'd suggest taking a card scraper to those spots.
  20. I don't have such a planer, but images on the interwebs show what appears to be an adjustment mechanism to tilt the cutter head. Have you tried that?
  21. @Aquatic123, welcome to the forum. I think you might be overlooking the fact that even "reactive" polyurathane finishes are carried in a solvent that must evaporate before the reaction can really take hold. Most of the comments revolve around how to accelerate the evaporation. Unfortunately, most of the original participants in this thread have been no-shows for some time, so I doubt there will be much of a rebuttal... Once again, welcome, and thanks for chiming in!
  22. The end of the shelix head that has the longer shaft and keyway cut into it should be the drive side. That's where that big pulley will mount.
  23. wtnhighlander


    Good idea. As I understand it, the face grain of chestnut and white oak look very similar. I've never worked with any chestnut, though.
  24. wtnhighlander


    @Coop, those should make for some nice conversation pieces, even if they turn out to not be chestnut. Cool story behind them. You have a live-edge project in mind?