wtnhighlander

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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. "Self-Service" is one reason I loved the little Yanmar tractor. No critical electical funtions aside from starting. No unnecessary accessories like A/C. All mechanical fuel system. The thing didn't even have a water pump or an alternator! It relied on convection to circulate coolant, and a simple magneto to charge the battery. Pretty much every tool needed to maintain it would fit in the on-board tool box. Simple and reliable is worth a lot.
  2. Try "cerused"? Dyed black with pigment rubbed into the deep grain afterward. Silver looks pretty sweet and classy. Fiery red or cobalt blue could look cool if your game room is decorated for more of a "bar with neon signs" jive.
  3. Progressing slowly. Color and 1 coat of poly so far.
  4. Nothing wrong about dark maple in my book.
  5. What is it with weird spring weather? The biggest snow West Tn has seen ( in my lifetime) was just over 12", and happened during the second week of April, back around 1976 or '77.
  6. For that type of work, I would prefer a laminate top. Light color and non-sculpted. The mild texture of that type surface is really handy for scribbling notes in pencil, and a little Windex takes them right off. Use cutting mats and such for damaging tasks.
  7. How does that angle improve usage over a straight blade? When you mentioned a bend, I was expecting it to be on axis perpendicular to what you show. Obviously, I don't live near the water....
  8. I feel like an unsupported end-grain bench would be prone to split under pounding forces. If you put a layer of ply under it for full support, and attach it to allow for expansion & contraction, it should work, but the edges would still be questionable. What's wrong with using it in the form it has now?
  9. My kid's phone is on a shared data plan. The carrier's app lets me cut him off at will. *evil grin*
  10. For a 12.5 ft span, I would probably go with 4 supports. One at each end and 2 evenly spaced between. You could build them from 2x4, like triangular trusses, installed with one side against the wall, so the hypotenuse forms the angled brace you want. A good top would be 2 layers of ply, with a hardwood edging, perhaps lipped to accept a 'sacrificial' layer of 1/8" hardboard on top. When that gets beat up, just replace that layer. Now, if you describe the sort of work you plan to do, you may get some very different suggestions!
  11. I will toss in one more bit of "advice". If you do choose a tractor, don't be tempted to use a belly mower for "convenience" of not having to remove it while using other implements. It will interfere with many operations you might want to do, and require removal anyway. And it is really difficult to mow under trees, fence rows, etc.. With a mower on the hitch, you can back the cutter up under stuff that you and your seat can't reach. A lifetime ago, I worked for a small landscape company, mostly as their tractor operator. We had a John Deer 750 with front-end loader. That machine used a Yanmar 18hp diesel engine, and was a workhorse far beyond what it's size would indicate. I ran a 5' finish mower on it, with front loader in place, and mowed several commercial properties from 2 to 10 acres. IT was a great deal faster than my 15hp Yanmar tractor. The Japanese Yanmar was geared for pulling stumps, I suppose. I could put it low range, first gear, and go eat lunch before it found its way across the yard!
  12. Do not try to keep a 4+ acre "lawn" with a tractor. I speak from experience, they are simply too slow. I suggest a zero turn radius mower, which will cover equal ground up to four times faster. I had a Yanmar compact tractor with 48' finishing mower that took more than 4 hours to mow my three acres, as mowing speed was about 3mph. A lawn tractor style mower with 42" deck took 3.5 hours, running about 5mph. My current mower, with a 60" deck, takes under 3 hrs. A zero turn mower with a 54" deck can do it in less than 2 hrs, running 7 to 9mph. Dixie Chopper mowers run up to 13mph mowing speed. A tractor doesn't get to REALLY be that helpful unless it has a front end loader. Then it is worth it's weight in platinum.
  13. Enjoy it thoroughly, Drew! I had a nice weekend for yardwork and such, so nice that I nearly couldn't get out of bed Monday, from sore muscles. I'll be lucky to have one more rain-free weekend before it gets too unbearably hot for such shennanigans.
  14. I would like to echo Drew, but I can't. Too much evidence of this thing being significantly tougher to deal with than any flu we've seen in the USA for over a hundred years. I suspect that even if we all, and I mean ALL took a 3 week break from everyone else, it would still linger enough to flare up again. Stay safe and well, everyone.
  15. If you have a steady hand, tracing his written notes with a pyrography pen would retain the original appearance better than a CNC carving, IMO. Deeply burned pyrography can take a good deal of sanding before it disappears.
  16. Chain conveyor working as expected, Rickey?
  17. There are several places to buy gas springs on line. Here is one example. I would probably construct 2 door panels with frames and thin plywood panels to keep the weight minimal. One long one might work, but may also twist too much if you pull it open from an end.
  18. In the right hands.... Use a text description and post a photo of just the handles.
  19. People who marvel at the pyramids of Egypt have never met a woodworker with a new (large) tool. There is ALWAYS a way to "Git 'er done!"
  20. Nice solution! I enjoy hearing how other folks solve problems with what they have on hand. Always a new trick to learn.
  21. Thanks, Dave! Its great to have the guy who REALLY knows the answer to chime in!
  22. Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.
  23. The profile of this edge is a big part of the design. I'm at the final stages of sanding, trying to keep the top edge as crisp as possible. How much would you guys "break" the top edge? It is about 80* to the top face, and very crisp at the moment. I want to keep the crispness, but not have it feel too sharp, since it is the edge that will be most felt when the table is in use. I'm thinking a light tough with 320 on a sanding block. That sound reasonable to you?
  24. If you find the overload tripping even with light cuts, wax the bed. And by light, I mean LIGHT. For wide boards, I take no more than 1/32" per pas.
  25. Are the drawers 22" wide, and only 14" deep (front to back)? If so, the design itself is going to fight you with racking problems. To reduce racking in a drawer with thos proportions, tolerances must be small, which leads to binding when the wood moves with humidity swings. If it isn't too late in the process, I would change the design to 4 drawers that aren't so wide. Otherwise, wax the sliding components liberally. Or use steel ball bearing drawer slides. No judgement from me.