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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. I don't understand your surprise. Those are some beautiful, and extremely challenging, pieces of artisanship. The ribbon is well-earned.
  2. Nice technique, Tom. You hire a camera crew?
  3. @Sharon, another commonly-overlooked cause of "pigtails" is grit or swarf trapped between the paper and surface. Assuming you have a vaccum attached, try lifting the sander every couple of seconds to help clear the waste.
  4. Number and spacing of dogholes is all about your personal workflow. I think that guideline for spacing according to the max vise opening is just for the maximum doghole space. I would make them a little closer together,myself.
  5. I see one problem with the design, Drew. It's already full! Great-looking showcase, it really highlights the playbills inside.
  6. Tom, there has been a lot of grief in your family of late, and you are an awfully good "in-law" to do so much to help them keep it together. God bless you, and all of them.
  7. A key feature of torsion box design is that it provides a strong, flat surface while "minimizing" weight. For hand tool woodworking, this isn't a desirable feature in a workbench. The stability provided by mass will prove more suitable for hand tool operations, IMO. A thick lamination of MDF, 3 or 4 layers, will remain flat, given ordinary attention to the support structure. It will certainly be easier to construct, and dog holes can be placed anywhere you like. Don't expect them to keep their shape if used for hold-fasts, though. Even softer woods like pine or poplar give out quickly under the force applied by a traditionsl hold fast. Those screw-operated hold fasts might work fine.
  8. Looking great, Ken! I like how you turned the t&g into rabbets for the glass, very clean.
  9. Mount it sideways so you never have to rotate your stock...
  10. That's a neat little touch that I would never have thought of!
  11. Oak gets a bad rap in many cases, but the strong grain patterns realy make those turnings stand out!
  12. I think you will appreciate having the sharpening cart ready to go!
  13. European kitchens to to be far less "extravagant" then their US counterparts, I believe. At least when compared to the typical sub-urban MacMansion kitchen.
  14. I'm sure American hotdogs are considered 'Imperial', but are Frankfurters metric?
  15. After seeing the photo, I agree with @gee-dub. My first experience with a linseed oil finish was a table made of red oak. I followed the suggested "flood, wait, wipe" schedule, but the very porous oak soaked in so much oil that it wept stalactites of congealed oil from the underside of the top for almost a month. In that situation, I found scrubbing it with a mineral spirits-soaked rag to be more effective.
  16. @Simon, that sounds like what is commonly called "blotching". It occurs when wavy or swirling grain absorbs finish unevenly, and is most pronounced with stains or tinted finishes. Common preventive measures include sanding to very high grits, and sealing the surface with a non-coloring "wash coat", such as well-thinned, dewaxed blonde shellac, prior to adding a top coat, especially if a colorant is involved. I can't think of a simple way to remove blotch, short of starting over, but there are more expert finishers here that might have something to offer.
  17. Any repairs you might want to make will almost certainly require removal of the paint.
  18. Really hard to tell in the photos posted,but there is a chance that some of the uneveness is from a filler being applied under the paint. Have you removed the paint to verify if the top is solid, yet? If you plan to repaint, the using such filler (Bond-O or the like) is a viable option.
  19. @Chestnut, I find that the 1/4" luan stuff sold as flooring underlayment at the home centers is a far better quality material tthan the hardwood ply from the same source. Works well so ling as you don't need a 'show' face of a particular species. Of course, you probably have a better local source for ply than I do, anyway.
  20. The thicker material needs a saw with fewer teeth. As each tooth travels a longer distance through the stock, it collects more waste in its gullet. If the gullet fills before the tooth exits the stock, the packed waste produces friction against the sides of the kerf, resulting in burn marks. The friction also heats the blade and prevents the tooth edge from cutting cleanly, resulting in more torn wood fibers that adhere to the blade as 'resin buildup'. This is true for any saw, no matter how sharp. To make thick cuts with a higher tooth count, the only option is to reduce the feed rate, and that isn't always successful. Selecting the correct saw tooth geometry is the best way to go.
  21. I used GF High Performance over GF 'Milk Paint', which is actually acrylic, with very nice results. Applied with a foam brush.
  22. Looking forward to it, Ken!
  23. Yeah, there is really no increased security from an RFID key..Now thieves can unlock the car without even touching it. My beef is that the stupid fob things are so bulky. I can't keep my truck and my wife's "keys" on the same ring anymore, it won't fit in my pocket.
  24. @treeslayer, do you recommend any particular species that holds the points well for those serving forks?