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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Yes, the feed tables are supposed to provide sup upward force. My planer is an older model, and does not include the adjustable tables, so lifting the ends is my only option.
  2. That is a beautiful piece of work, and you should be proud! But in the end, it is a tool to help you make other beautiful pieces of work, so don't fret, let it do its job.
  3. Spent a couple hours pushing a saw today. It was 18* in the shop this morning, but I didn't need any heat by the time I got this far. That shine is definitely not my natural glow. I really owe Spanky for this one! The task is actually going fairly well, considering the saw has about twice the teeth it should for this job. Thankfully, once this rip is complete, I'll have pieces that I can manage with machines.
  4. I agree with John. Epoxy cracks might need to ground out in a V shape, taking care to avoid hitting the wood. Since that looks like less than 1/8" of thickness, I might use a scraper to scoop out a wide, shallow trench, rather than a deep V cut. Then refill with clear epoxy, using the typical methods to avoid bubbles. This is something I would want to test on a scrap piece, first. And I would try John's CA glue suggestion before taking this drastic approach. Can you post a photo of the table, to give us an idea of the amount of damage relative to the full surface? My concern is that if this cracking is in several places, it resulted from the table flexing. If that is true, the epoxy is perhaps not the appropriate finish for that application, and repairs will fail again.
  5. The end that is farther from the cutter at the moment. Tail end when feeding, head end while exiting. Requires a lot of running around, or an apprentice!
  6. To clarify my statement, I do a lot of my shop work in the cooler winter months, when the rubber spindle 'sleeve spacer'(?) isn't as flexible. That contributes to slippage quite a lot.
  7. If you want a uniform color and grain pattern, try to purchase an entire tree of boards from a sawyer / lumber yard. I would avoid trying to mill boards from a slab, as slabs are generally far more expensive per board foot, and less consistently dried. You may find you freshly-milled boards warping like crazy. Regarding the planer, waxing the bed often prevents the slippage you describe, and I find that applting pressure UPWARD at the end of the board as it passes the cutter generally alleviates snipe. Lifting the far end helps hold the end at the cutter down, just as it losing the pressure from the feed roller.
  8. I have a Ridgid spindle / belt sander of the same format as that Triton. It is a very useful machine for small-ish work and small workspace, but you are correct. The platten is not very large, and the belt is short enough that it clogs with spoil quickly. A belt 'eraser' is an essential accessory. I rarely use the spindles, as they are difficult to keep tight on the rubber core, and clog up even more rapidly than the belt. For a hobby volume of work, its a pretty good arrangement, but maybe not for larger tasks.
  9. Duck, I don't turn much myself, but most segmented stuff I see has 12 segments per ring, as a good compromise between maximizing material utilization and minimizing labor to build the ring. But lots of folks up the ante by creating rings with varying numbers of segments, and different colors, to make all sorts of beautiful patterns and designs.
  10. ... and not a single one you yahoos tried to talk Cody out of it!
  11. Mark, do you think it is strong enough to hold on a sort of jam chuck? Two opposing cones with a bolt through the center, and one cone having a tenon for your 4-jaw lathe chuck? Maybe not worth the effort to make, though.
  12. As artful as the contraption itself, was the way you lured us all in, by starting with some smartly turned bun feet .... and ending with this!
  13. Almost forgot... This morning, before work, I spent a little time prepping an old handsaw from my collection. This is just an inexpensive hardware store handsaw, nothing special. It had the coarsest teeth of the lot, and I filed into the resemblence of a rip configuration. A quick test went well in this scrap of white oak. If it warms up this weekend, maybe I'll see how it does in maple!
  14. Latest concept drawing of the case: Still thinking about the slat arrangement. I realized that the slats can actually extend across almost the entire back. So long as I leave a half-inch gap at one end or the other, the "hooks" can be inserted or removed as needed to support knives in any arrangement. I'd like to try mitered blind dovetails for the case, but I think it better to practice on something else first. Probably going to do a simple splined miter, instead. If I manage to saw a good plank from the maple cant, I should be able to resaw it and do the inside-out bookmatch think to make the grain line up at all 4 corners. The plank should wide enough so that I can "miter and fold over" the edges to form the front door frame. That should make it an 8-corder grain match, if all works as planned. Wish me luck ...
  15. Maybe its the sleepers from a very short section of 'narrow gauge' railway ...
  16. All I can say is WOW! And I hope the next step down't involve that baseball bat ...
  17. Very cool technique, the result is fantastic!
  18. Looks like another 'Oak Island' mystery, to me!
  19. Here @Coop, this should get you by...
  20. @Coop, I recently purchased a pack as well. Onky used a couple of disks so far. They seem to do well on flat surfaces, but I use my ROS to shape a lot of curves, too. The grit tends to separate from the backing when force is concentrated on a small portion of the disk. Honestly, I still prefer the Shopsmith abrasives that I used to buy at the big blue store. Unfortunately, my local store has dropped Shopsmith in favor of Craftsman, which is even worse than the cheap Gator brand that they also sell.
  21. If there is one item in the shop I could dump money on to improve, it would be the dust removal system.
  22. I would guess that the odd boards are from a different variety of maple. At the very least, from a different tree, as growing conditions from one tree to another often lead to color variance. That is why makers of fune furniture often purchase direct from the sawyer, to ensure the stock used for a project all cimes from the same tree. Such minor color variance can be almost impossible to see in the rough, so following the 'chain of custody' is your best bet. To ensure your stock is the same species, at least, you can refer member @phindsweb site for detailed images and descriptions. Hobbithouseinc.com
  23. @gee-dub, is that recessed into a wall,or just a weird optical illusion?
  24. I don't drink coffee either. I snagged a big filter full from work, and let them dry well before mixing into epoxy. I suspect using wet grounds would go cloudy or something.
  25. Fine, dry grounds mixed in clear epoxy will turn that little divit into a very convincing 'bark inclusion'. I just mix in the grounds until the epoxy has an almost dough-like consistency.