wtnhighlander

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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. No direct experience to share on that model, but here are some questions to ask: 1. Is it powerful enough to cut the material you want to use? 2. Is the table large enough to safely support the size pieces you need? 3. Will the fence move smoothly, lock solidly, and stay parallel to the blade? If all 3 are 'yes' answers, move on to inspection for wear items, bearings and such, since it is used. Also ensure the safety features (riving knife, blade guard, etc...) are in place. If you fully understand the implications of those parts being removed, I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker, but it does de-value the machine.
  2. Turned out quite well! Really dresses up the yard compared to an open stack.
  3. For safety, ceiling-height cases should definitely be fixed in place. I made a utility-grade set in similar fashion, and used a french cleat to fix the top to the wall, while still allowing it to rest on the floor. I suggest framing the bottom so you can included leveling feet, then use a base molding to hide them. The molding can be scribed and cut to follow any irregularities of the floor. If the crown is not touching the ceiling, it can be aligned with the case and look good. If it joins the case and ceiling, extra care will be necessary to get a good fit without visible gaps or misaligned edges. Ceilings & floors are never truly flat or square. For a case that tall, I'd prefer to use solid panels for the sides, with shelves dadoed or dovetailed into them. Grain orientation is all the same, so all parts should grow/shrink together. I'd also use a face frame to add rigidity. If appropriate ply is avalable and looks good to you, it would be simpler to use for the case and shelves, and the face frame will cover the edges.
  4. Mulberry is my favorite 'atypical' domestic to date. Not extremely common, but low demand keeps the price reasonable. Straw-gold when freshly cut or planed, it slowly ages to a cinnimon brown with gold flecks, or can be 'quick-aged' with lye to a deep, uniform cocoa brown. Beware advise concerning lumber prices. Supply and demand (and thus price) for most species varies wildly by region. Sometimes pretty small regions, at that.
  5. Colin, do you have general dimensions in mind? Some of these design choices scale up easier than others. Also consider wall-hung vs. floor-standing. Google for 'campain furniture', there are many good examples that not only manage wood movement, but also come apart for movement of the piece itself.
  6. If you plan to paint, you can use most any suitable lumber. The paint will protect the wood. PT stuff from home centers is awful stuff to work with, is usually far from dry, and doesn't hold paint well until it IS dry. I'd suggest pine or poplar. Beware that pine knots hold a lot of pitch, and require extra care to paint well. Use a good quality outdoor primer and paint, take steps to form the parts so that water drains away, and that no unpainted wood is exposed. Consider that before the advent of aluminum and vinyl siding products, wooden siding for homes was quite common, and very often simply painted pine boards. Of course, if you can obtain a weather resistant species like cedar, cypress, or white oak, your pieces will last even longer. Something I've heard, poplar sap wood is supposed to be more rot resistant than the heart, so it may be a good choice for painted projects. The main natural entrance to Mammoth Cave still contains water piping made from bored out poplar logs, used for a gunpowder producing operation during the civil war, if I recall correctly.
  7. I should rephrase - the pull saws I have personal experience with all have a small section with no teeth at the very tip. May not be true for all japanese styles.
  8. A handsaw (sharp one) can be used to make 'plunge cuts', that is cuts that don't exit the edge. If you aren't well practiced at sawing a straight line, clamp a straight edge along your line, and move the first tooth at the tip of the saw along the line to plow through. Its a little slow to start, but will get the job done. As I recall, most japanese pull saws have a dead space at the tip, so a western style saw is needed for this.
  9. I use thin often, to soak into a void packed with sanding dust. I used to make guitar picks from wood. Flooding with thin CA forms an extremely durable finish for that application.
  10. In that situation, if you really expected to use the ends for seating frequently, a pedestal design with extended feet could work.
  11. The resort where we often stay when visiting the Smokies has (pine) log cabins managed by at least 4 different companies. The company we like best keeps their places looking very nice, but claims they apply fresh stain (semi-transparent) SEVEN times a year. Food for thought.
  12. Sites like this one can provide a good deal of useful information to guide your designs.
  13. To keep CA from going bad after the bottle is opened, make sure it seals (of course), and store it in the fridge. I've never gone to a bottle more than 1 oz. because I usually forget the cold storage step. Like Chestnut says, all the brands I try seem to perform about the same.
  14. Biscuit and glue would work pretty well. Holding the handle to plunge in the cutter could be dicey. The foxed tenon is a master's way to do it, for sure. But its a one-shot deal. Once the wedge goes in, it won't come out, poor fit or not. I'd probably choose the dowel method.
  15. Many moons ago, I worked a couple seasons for a landscape architect who got his start pruning the great pines along the fairways of Augusta National. He had two rules - Never use a ladder in a tree, and never use climbing spikes on a tree that wasn't dead. Hauling myself and a 30 lb. chainsaw up a 1" diameter climbing rope is probably the most difficult physical effort I have ever made. Gotta respect guys that do that every day.
  16. Check the woodwhisperer website for mention of a 'contemplation bench'. As I recall, its part of the free area, and I believe Nicole wound up using it for the shower. I believe it was finished with CPES and Epifanes. Sending up the Bat signal, perhaps @thewoodwhisperer himself may chime in with a long-term durability report.
  17. I am a little intrigued by the drivetrain, though.
  18. Some designs, regardless of beauty, make little sense from the standpoint of function.... Does look cool, though.
  19. Another option is to darken the brass so that the finish differences are less evident. I've used gun blue solution to turn bright brass parts into 'oil rubbed bronze'. Heating with a torch can also darken and dull the finish of bright brass. YMMV
  20. Even in dry climates, its a gamble to break the rules of wood movement. The way I've seen similar tables made is to not glue the main part together, but to leave the boards as loose slats, perhaps with ship-lap or tongue & groove edges. Wrap them in a solid frame, held in a groove like a frame & panel door. That allows a bit of expansion, but the table top will have grooves / gaps at the joints. Battens and screws into the underside can help keep it flat and strong. For a smooth top, veneered ply is your safest bet. If you build the plywood slab and wrap it with the solid wood rim first, then veneer the entire top, you can get the illusion of a solid glue-up. Or veneer the ply separately, which allows for decorative patterns or marquetry. In either case, be sure to apply veneer to both sides of the ply, as doing one will "unbalance" the layers, and is garanteed to make to warp. Don't ask me how I know...
  21. Welcome to the forum. No personal experience to share, but Baleigh looks like good stuff. All mention I've heard from others has been favorable, although the older stuff seems to have been much heavier duty than the modern machines.
  22. If the fence is only one part of the craftsman saw that disappoints you, I'd concentrate on replacing the saw. A decent fence might cost more than half the price of a pretty good used cabinet saw. Before committing to a large expense, consider what sort of things you want to make. The size of the desired projects influences the size and choice of tools to use. For furniture, with the exception of some chair styles, you need flat, straight stock to begin with. A jointer and thickness planer become very important when you want to use hardwoods that are often available only in rough-cut form. Running rough, twisted, or bowed lumber across a table saw is an invitation for disaster. After a few years of experience, my recommendation for a "hobby" workshop is to start with a sturdy workbench, including good work holding options, and a small collection of hand tools. The first machine I would consider is a thickness planer, as large as you can afford. If possible, a dust collector to match it, or at least some means to divert the chips out of your work area. With the planer and a sled or some hand planes, you can make rough stock smooth and flat. After that, I would debate over table saw vs. band saw. The table saw can perform quite a few machining operations that a band saw can not, but at the expense of safety. While these things CAN be safely accomplished, a thorough understanding of the machine is necessary to do so.
  23. No reason you cutting plan won't work. I'd take care about cutting too close with the jigsaw, as the blade tends to wander to one side or the other in thick cuts like that. Might be right on the line on the top face, and a half-inch off underneath. Take it slow, don't push the cut, it will do better. For flush trimming, I assume you plan to make a template to trim against?