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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. People sometimes think that "needing a lot of water" means it needs to float. Just keeping the soil moist, not soggy, through the day is all that bermuda sod normally needs. Assuming that was bermuda...
  2. Quartering with a chainsaw is a good idea. Cutting like these guys: Using mostly the tip of the bar keep the chips moving clear and cutting quickly. I realize there is the danger of kick-back with this method, but it is controllable.
  3. This is probably why the popular DIY jointers on YT start with a cheap planer. All the crtical parts have already been assembled and (supposedly) tested to work together. Aside from the helical / spiral cutterhead, is there some other reason you chose this route? I've considered one of these builds, and would love to understand the logic behind your decision.
  4. I recall seeing a research artical on this a few years ago. Nice to see it made it to commercial production. Let the transparent end grain cutting board craze commence!
  5. Keep dust collection in mind if you consider a textured surface. Even with taped and painted drywall, I have to sweep down the walls after dusty operations. I can't imagine ever getting all the dust off of T1-11.
  6. No, oils apparently remain more permeable to moisture, even though they seem to pentrate the wood surface. I have never tested that hypothesis myself, but anecdotal evidence seems to support it. Your guitar body design seems like a good candidate for a pre-finishing plan. Mask off the glue surfaces, and finish the remainder with at least one coat before assembly.
  7. What do you mean about the underside of the legs? Condition of the finish, or something with the structure? The refinish process depends on what results you desire. If you want it to look new, then sanding to bare wood is the place to start. But if you want to keep the patina of age, I would first clean it with Murphy's Oil soap and evaluate. Might need little else. If it needs more, light sanding with 220 or greater grit can slowly remove the outer layers, so you can choose how far to go.
  8. What do you mean about wood moving a lot on past guitars? Did the face and body separate or delaminate? Different species can have drastically different movement rates, but red and white oak should be pretty close. The best your finish can do is slow down the uptake and release of moisture, and therefore movement. A thick film seems to make the best barrier to moisture, and it needs to cover every nook and cranny to be effective. I'm with @Chestnut, spray lacquer is your safest bet. BUT... unless the guitar is going from Tuscon to Miami on a regular basis, I can't see the oak giving you much trouble. Assuming the materials were dried to equilibrium in tbe first place. If you are sawing the face veneer in-shop, inadequate acclimatization afterwards may be the source of your troubles.
  9. wtnhighlander


    That's facinating, Gary! What was the motorized device you ran during the exposure? Sounded like a pump?
  10. One advantage of using ply or such is that (with screws ) it is removable. That makes shop reconfigurations a breeze. Electrical and plumbing in the walls can be ooened up an manipulated with much less effort and waste than behind drywall.
  11. I did use polyester resin & glass cloth to repair a boat once, but painted it and sold it soon after. Never saw how it held up over time.
  12. Drew, I'm too lazy read all that without a really good reason. Did you notice if the study differentiates between 2-part 'glue' type epoxies and polyester resins made for 'glassing' boats?
  13. Are you at least making a "How NOT to build a jointer" video to help recoup your losses?
  14. I wonder if the 1617 changed recently? The kit I bought last month has full variable speed control w/soft start, and came with fixed and plunge bases.
  15. Ooooooo, that's gonna be some pretty lumber!
  16. The "cleaner" instruction is supposedly necessary for treating decks or furniture that have already been exposed to the weather. The intent is to remove dirt, mildew, etc... that can interfere with the product's adhesion. Having said all that, I suggest re-thinking your lumber choice. Pine construction lumber is not very resistant to rot and insect damage. At the very least, seal the feet of your table where they contact the patio floor, to reduce the uptake of water through the end grain. Epoxy is a good product for that, and your home center probably has several types available.
  17. I think the electric advantage is variable speed with constant torque. But 'stationary' is a key word. For me, mobility would win. For those with available property to dedicate to the task, stationary is probably much better.
  18. wtnhighlander


    Took the pooch out for her 9:00 pm walk, and noticed a cool lighting effect in the sky. High clouds were catching some reflected light, although the sun was well below the horizon. Note the stars in the sky. Focus isn't perfect, I didn't take time to grab a tripod. ISO 400, 1.8 Apeture, 4.28 mm focal length, 30 seconds of exposure.
  19. @drzaius, that is awesome! I have learned that no blood relation closer than Adam is necessary to make someone 'family', and you just proved it.
  20. Seems like that type of mill would work for radial sawing of siding or shingle. Requires a set of spindle centers to hold the log like seen here.
  21. That's pretty slick, and not bad on the price. Looks like a commercial version of one Izzy Swan built out of plywood a while back:
  22. Harbor Freight carries (carried? haven't been in a while) toggle clamps that look the same, except the ones I have clamp when the handle is pull up, not pushed down. Really handy for jigs like that.
  23. Goes without saying, I suppose - coffee and / or Red Bull are definitely off-limits on shooting days.... I don't think I've ever tried to take a shot more than 150 yards or so, but that is dictated by the sever lack of such open spaces around here.
  24. Tom, are you certain your last name isn't Sawyer? I'm looking forward to some timberframing pics!
  25. That green isn't going to 'sneak' anywhere!