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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. I was never willing to take a cruise in the past, and don't see that attitude changing....
  2. I miss working in the garage with 12 ft. ceilings. I set this sheet up to rabbet on edge for a locked rabbet drawer joint. I never thought about the saw table being at an angle. Imagine my chagrin when the piece wedged against the ceiling, half way through the cut. Doh! Had to shut down, un-wedge the piece, and remove the leveling feet from the saw to finish the cut...
  3. @Chip Sawdust, I'd love to see how you manage to extend the jointer beds. I have a PC / Delta equivalent, and you've all seen my struggles to make it useful....
  4. You guys worry too much. My plan is to use my tools up BEFORE the estate sale! In all seriousness, several of my hand tools were inherited from my grandfather and my FIL. Both men believed tools were meant to be used, so very few powered tools owned by either had any life left.
  5. Wouldn't take that many. Just one, with a little patience:
  6. Now that you have it out of the bearings, put it in the freezer for a couple of days. While it is chilling, prepare a jig to hold the shaft from rotating without damaging it. Whith the assembly throroughly chilled, quickly mount it in the jig and try to loosen the faceplate. If it doesn't break free quickly, use a torch to warm up just the faceplate. Freezing should contract the shaft, warming the faceplate should expand it enough to break loose.
  7. Coop, I framed a B&W pencil sketch that my Dad made of Cody, using walnut, with a "mat" of some particularly gold colored poplar. Except that I totally screwed up the grain match on the poplar, I think it looks really good.
  8. I'd wind up being the one guy that trips over his own feet, and brings everyone down like dominoes!
  9. Dave, I splurged on some Brusso 95* hinges for my wife's jewelry box, partly because they fit the 1/2" wall thickness. Worth every penny, they are the finest hinges I have ever used.
  10. Any day the fish is caught, is a good day! The others are just fishing days.
  11. Dave, what is your process for making that inside roundover lip?
  12. If this saw is the one you use, I highly recommend embedding it into a larger work surface. I started out with a Sears saw of similar style, and couldn't safely cut anything larger than pencil box parts on it. You need a stable base and more support surface than the table provides. Youtube has plenty of 'small shop' solutions that demonstrate how it can be done.
  13. @Rmcauliffe, do you mean the sled is wider (front to back) than the saw table, or just that it will overhang when pushed forward during the cut? If just while forward, most of them do that. My only concern would be if the sled is so wide the more than half of it hangs over the back of the saw, it might tip.
  14. The above mentioned fastening solutions should work, but my personal experience with single-screw attachment of such legs hasn't been good. I would probably resort to some sort of (really short) mortise and tenon, maybe with a screw for added support. That's just me.
  15. Etching or engraving may not be too dificult, but cutting ability depends on wattage. Lasers are perhaps not the best choice for plastics, as they cut with heat and can easily leave a melted mess. They will work, just a little fussy in those cases. So, like most tool purchases, use the planned outcome to guide your decision. Don't expect to cut very thick material with anything less than a ginormous laser, as the focal point is where the heat concentrates, and it disperses above and below. I think the desktop Glowforge unit can cut some materials up to 1/4" or so, but that one is kind of pushing the typical hobby budget. Something like Epilog would do more, but better generate an income!
  16. Without looking, I'm going to guess the lapping film is available in finer grits. Either will wear away metal to produce an edge.
  17. As I recall, IBM did not supply a manual for the original PC. They supplied a BOOKSHELF of manuals. I once used the diagnostic flow chart from that set to diagnose which memory chip, and which bit on the chip, had failed. Of course, it was soldered into the motherboard, so I never fixed it anyway. The mark of a REAL computer tech (nerd) is the ability, and will, to re-string a memory core....
  18. If the sides are flat and square, I would favor marking out the cuts with a knife line, and cutting by hand. Powered tools cut faster, but leave no way to adjust the cut while it is being made. A tiny bit of angle on a circle saw blade compounds noticably when cutting from opposite sides of the work. A sharp block plane can then clean the end grain up. If the beams are NOT flat and square, maybe construct a plywood box around it to serve as a reference surface?
  19. Sounds like a perfect time to visit the Sagulator.
  20. @Richard Brown, I'm a little confused by your original description. Is the setup pictured using the 1.5 hp blower, or the 3 hp blower? Looks like the 3 hp?
  21. Exactly. The crossed plys improve STABILITY, at the cost of rigidity in one direction, gaining it in the other.
  22. Do you need sheets wider than you can resaw and plane? Marc demonstrated in one of his videos (basket weave hamper, maybe?) that using a sled and tape allows the planer to finish boards down to about 1/32". Second question: Why alternating grain direction? That will make the resulting shape only half as rigid as it would be if all the grain was aligned. Plywood uses that format to counteract wood movment for flatness.
  23. That really is an interesting mechanism! Is the magnet shifted only through weights and levers, or is there a motor involved?
  24. Yes, just like everyone does with the U-Haul trailers that have "Max. Speed 45 MPH" painted on the side. Kidding aside, I generally try to avoid major / congested roadways as much as possible when carrying ANYTHING that doesn't fit within the confines of the designated passenger or cargo areas of the vehicle. That includes hauling trailers. Especially with a lighter vehicle, trailering can dramatically alter the driving dynamics. Lumber weight adds up quicker than you might expect, and a heavy trailer can push your vehicle, greatly extending your stopping distance, and causing the rear end to swing wide or skid if turning too quickly. Take it slow until you get a good feel for how the handling changes. I treat it like driving on snow / ice. Keep the top speed lower than normal, and drive to avoid making ANY sudden changes in speed or direction. Another tip for those new to using a trailer - a typical two-wheel trailer like the one from HF is designed to be "front loaded", meaning about 60% of the weight should be ahead of the axle. If the rear is loaded heavier that the front, the trailer tongue will try to lift, causing your vehicle to fish-tail. This can be severe enough to cause a crash.