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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Looks like a great place to work! Is the vac-based collector doing the job for you? I'm always looking for better DC...
  2. That's a cane to do some beating, too! Looks great, Rick.
  3. Is that a little close to the "Now Playing" sign??? I hope you don "Drink and Dart"!
  4. Really simple workbench: Slightly less simple, but easier to work at bench: No affiliation with this guy, but his "Woodworking for Humans" videos are just the ticket for someone starting out on a limited budget.
  5. Hi Scooby, and welcome. I hope we can offer some helpful advice to get you started off on the right foot. Regarding tools, these are MY opinions, so take them as you like. Personally, I find my tablesaw to be critical to most projects, but I would invest even more in a planer. Why? Because even pre-milled lumber moves, especially when stored in an uncontrolled environment. Making the wood flat and even is easiest with a planer AND a jointer, but there are lots of tricks to use only the jointer. All of which are much faster than using a router sled! My advice would be to do your best on the tablesaw, shop used if necessary, and save toward the planer and jointer as quickly as possible. Meanwhile, a couple hundred $$ can net you a decent jack plane and a diamond plate to keep it sharp. Learn to use those, and your expensive machine worries will be much less urgent. As for materials, don't take it for granted that home center softwood is cheaper or easier to use. You pay for that smooth surface, the 'craft boards' that most places carry are considerably more expensive than the equivalent boards from a mill. For transport, look into a trailer hitch. Probably no more expensive than a roof rack, and gives a lot more options. And you can always rent a pickup for the day if the SUV just won't cut it.
  6. That message was blatant spam, Rick. User now banned, post deleted.
  7. I think Rick meant Paul Sellers, not Peter...
  8. Nice save! Some else is wrong with the sanders, though. Waaaaayyy too clean!
  9. I've seen @RichardA's dog ... he isn't kidding! That 6 dog's worth could easily stuff a king mattress.
  10. Sandpaper, fastened to a flat surface like a thick piece of plate glass or a granite tile, will certainly get the job done. Do not be fooled into thinking it is a cheaper way to go, though. In just a handfull of honing sessions, you will spend more on paper than a decent stone. I have used sandpaper, oil stones, and diamond plates. With the Eclipse-style jig and without. My favorite solution to date is a Sharpal.com (8"x3", item#162, I think) brand, double-sided diamond plate, followed by 'stropping' on a piece of MDF coated with green (aluminum oxide??) abrasive compound from Harbor Freight. This setup provides a small kit that gets and keeps my edges sharp with minimal time and effort. I won't say sharper than some of these other systems, but very sharp, very quick, and relatively low cost. Sharpal is a bit less expensive than Trend Micro or DMT. Keeping the edge sharp is key. Frequent use of the strop to refresh the edge as you work makes a world of difference.
  11. wtnhighlander


    That's pretty sweet, Cliff. And seriously heavy-duty! Should serve you for many years. Have to say, though...3 different monitors would pound my OCD symmetry bone to a pulp!
  12. +1 to the photo request. If those 'drips' are actually mildew stain, it may require a good deal of sanding to remove. Mildew digs deep on soft wood like cedar.
  13. Grandpa gave me his old 20 ga. when I was 9, but I started 'coon hunting with him as soon as I could carry a flashlight without dragging it on the ground. Dad says I was about 3. Started shooting a .22 around age 7, and the 20 ga. about a year later. And tell your wife that the shooting won't be cut off until the gun starts putting you on your butt. Then switch to lighter loads...
  14. Grade can change over time. Unless the slope was pretty severe to begin with, a couple decades worth of normal changes to the landscape can cause drainage problems to appear.
  15. I doubt it will be less costly to fix than to replace a $35 tool. Going that route, I would grab a cupon and head to Harbor Freight. Their ROS is at least as good as the B&D, and you might shave another $10 off the price. I used one for about 3 years, until one too many drops to the concrete broke the pad off. Still worked fine to that point.
  16. Hi Richard! Sounds like you came to the right place!
  17. Hhmmmm....are the luggage compartments suitable for loading a few boards of @Spanky's curly maple? Hhmmmm....are the luggage compartments suitable for loading a few boards of @Spanky's curly maple?
  18. The heart doesn't pump air very well. It can be quite deadly. Compressed air "blow-off" nozzles now include a cross-bore hole that is supposed to relieve the pressure if you press the nozzle against your skin, but they aren't always in place. As @Chip Sawdust said, keeping the nozzle away from the surface dissipates the pressure quickly, but accidental contact can really mess you up. A small leaf blower is much safer for dusting yourself off.
  19. Thanks for sharing this! I have an interest in the history of our craft. Understanding how various tools are made is fascinating.
  20. And not blow through your skin, either. As little as 30 psi can inject an air bubble into you, if held close enough. Totally ruins your day...
  21. Never hurts to apply masking tape to both sides, and cut through that. Just another little trick to reduce chipping.
  22. All I know is that tossing one of those hulls at somone and shouting "Think Fast!" can have hilarious results. Which may be hazardous to your (the joker's) health!
  23. ... and some people are just jerks, who have no respect for the property of others...
  24. wtnhighlander


    So, this process develops under UV, not visible light?