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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Single-cut metal files leave a nice, shiny surface on wood. Just consider them a variation of a chisel or plane.
  2. @Chestnut, do the American Chestnuts grow a tall, straight trunk? I recall a childhood friend had a chestnut in his yard that was tall and straight, but there is a State-operated "tree farm" near me that has a stand of chestnuts hidden away in the back. They all have short trunks with major branches splitting off just a few feet from the ground. Always wondered if they were genetically modified, or some other variety. They all make those devilishly-spiked nut casings, though!
  3. Looks like you will be cutting very little of the epoxy, anyway. As Gary said, no one will see the cut edge.
  4. Glad to have you aboard! I hope we can continue to share things that aid and inspire, as I am sure you will, yourself.
  5. Assuming the screened in porch is actually open to the outside air, the bar top will experience humidity changes, and @rainjer has a good point. The expansion & contraction from humidity swings could crack or separate the epoxy. Clear Lexel caulk is good about remaining flexible after it cures, but does not become cloudy over time, like silicone does. I would tape closely down each side of the gap, run a bead of Lexel, then press it into the gap tightly, with a fingertip. Repeat until the gap is full (you may need to close the underside with tape), making sure the caulk is flush with the top surface, or slightly below. Then remove the masking tape on the top before the caulk cures, as it will be difficult afterwards, and don't disturb it for a day. I would finish with the poly first, and allow it to cure before adding the caulk.
  6. In a recent project journal, I described how I determined the proper angle and widths to cut staves to form a 24-segment tube. See this Journal. The same process will apply to your problem, the segment size at the outer diameter of the circle sets the minimum width of each board or panel. If you intend to make the circle of all radial-cut boards, be prepared for a ton of waste. Like, close to 50%. The triangle you cut from each board is equal in are to 1/2 the rectangle of the original board. You can limit this by cutting 2 opposing triangles from one slightly wider board, but the grain will not be truly radial in the resulting circle. Personally, I would probably do radial quadrants, like this (on quadrant illustrated):
  7. Can you post a photo of the shelves? You can cetainly saw through the epoxy, but doing so may require more steps to restore the shelve's appearance.
  8. ^^^^ This is why journals are so important!
  9. It might be hand carved, or might not. It definitely was laid out with a compass if cut by hand. I'm also pretty sure the bead edge is applied after the carving. I think Carus is on to something. Use a hole saw in the drill press to mark / cut the overlapping circles, the relieve them with a hand tool. I think careful use if a chip carving knife would work.
  10. By the time you are my age, they shold be nice shade trees. By the time you are @RichardA's age, they should make nice lumber. Be sure to build something nice for your grand-kids!
  11. Nice jig, Rick! Looks like it can expand from picture frame size to hold a good-sized box, too.
  12. Agree with @Barron, there seems to be a lack of support between legs and cabinet. My concern is the oil/wax applied to the top. That will virtually garantee that poky won't adhere, unless you sand or scrape to below the level of oil penetration. The good news is that since you need to do that anyway, you can get serious about forcing some moisture in. My solutuon would be to sand the top aggressively, throw some damp towels on top, and iron the heck out of them to persuade steam into the surface. Check the flatness frequently. Adding corbels / battens of wood, or even steel angles (angle iron) underneath, running across the grain of the top, will help keep it flat. If you do that, be sure to make slotted screw holes in the batten so the top can expand and contract across the grain as humidity changes. Sand up to 180 or 220 grit and apply the poly, if all the oil / wax is gone.
  13. wtnhighlander


    Very cool process! I'd call that quite an interesting subject for the application, also.
  14. Clamp it to one of those vibrating paint can mixers. That's essentially how our ginormous industrial dust collectors at work are cleaned.
  15. Nice! My favorite rifle (no longer own it) was a Browning 1892 lever-action carbine in .44 Magnum. Accuracy fell of a good deal after 50 yards, but inside that 50, it didn't matter much what was between you and your target, it would plow through.
  16. For router trimming, I suggest clamping a board or two against the non-work side of the ply to give your router a wider platform. Even with a bearing-guided bit, wobbling the router along the narrow edge is likely to ruin your day.
  17. When it comes to milling, I miss working in the garage. Then, I could just roll the planer out on the driveway and let the prevailing winds take care of the chips. Advantages of rural living.
  18. Terry, if you need something more for entertainment, follow the internet rabbit hole of rumors surrounding Bob Ross' military career. Gets to be a wild ride...
  19. I really, REALLY, need to remember to do this before milling day on the next project.... Between the DC blower and the DW735 blower, the collection bag was packed tighter than a summer sausage. Chips were piled up about 1/3 of the filter bag.
  20. Cool project Collin. "Twine not required", hilarious! On a serious note, take care with that shoulder, several acquaintances of mine have been through that, recovery is typically several weeks to a few months for full function to be restored. Don't push too hard.
  21. "Furniture: No visible fasteners..." I'm not buying that. Still interesting. Not that I haven't used a lot of bamboo skewers in the same way...
  22. Baking soda has a PH level that reacts with the tannic acid it wood, causing it to color-shift. On finished flooring, just using it to scrub a spot shouldn't hurt, but letting it sit for an hour probably allowed the solution to penetrate the finish and cause the reaction. The only way I know of to remove that is sand or scrape the wood to a clean surface, and refinish. Before taking that leap, I would try a little Murphy's Oil soap and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, in case it is just a surface stain from the grease.
  23. That would have to be a Dunkin. KK never lasts long enough to go that stale.
  24. wtnhighlander

    Power Washer

    Ken, I would lean toward lower pressure and higher flow. Many of those touting 3000+ psi don't spray enough water to wash cut grass off the driveway, yet can cut grooves in your wood deck or siding in a hearbeat. Some will even erode stone or concrete!