wtnhighlander

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Everything posted by wtnhighlander

  1. Nice work, David! I would be very hesitant about engraving a language unknown to me - imagine the embarassment if I accidentally used some 'offensive' wording! I hope your Hebrew has been spell-checked! You are a brave man!
  2. Nice result, Gary. Nice approach to solving the problem, too. Is that pen self-contained, or is there a transformer at the other end of the cord? Seems small to power such a heavy tip.
  3. Go over to Matthias Wandell's site, WoodGears.ca, and read about it right from the inventor. Matthias has a very analytical way of developing tools and jigs. Interesting to follow, IMO.
  4. @RichardA, I've met Boo. Your house is a long way from empty. I'll echo your offer to be here and listen when a brother or sister needs to unload. For any of you guys and gals.
  5. I'm with Chip on this one. I listen to podcasts in the shop, but not with on / in-ear devices. Over the ear protection when machines are running.
  6. V40 treating you well? It looks pretty capable. I agree about things never being the same. I replaced the cracked screen on my son's MotoX 3 times before giving up and replacing the phone.
  7. Given that some folks have tool chests bigger than my shop, I vote tool wall. Why close all your stuff up in a box, when it can hang right where you need it?
  8. Same. I'm still hanging on to one of the few models with a user-replacable battery.
  9. I find it fascinating that you gave your wife a kitchen appliance for her birthday, and lived to tell the tale! Must be a very special lady!
  10. Tell that to the "smart" phone mfgs that keep trying to eliminate the headphone jack! Please!
  11. At least you have some good help there, Tom!
  12. That's the greatest 'foot stool' design, ever!
  13. I imagine the liability of providing a 're-conditioned' safety component would be prohibitive.
  14. Looks like a new mallet head to me! Would definitely be worth showung it to an expert.
  15. David, did you cut that all with one size bit? Or do a rough pass with a larger bit and finish with a (very!) small diameter bit?
  16. The hidden fasteners will make your life much easier. If the surface gets splintered, you should be able to sand it smooth without worry of snagging a screw.
  17. I would use a bit the same size or slightly larger than the shank of the lag screw. Driving them into a hole that is too small with split the wood. And the through-hole part should not engage the threads at all, otherwise the two pieces of wood will not draw together tightly.
  18. @legenddc, I'm guessing you went with pressure treated pine, since you mentioned the cost advantage compared with non-wood products, and woods like sepele or teak are generally more costly than the composite products. I have such a deck, and am happy with it. If you keep it clean and re-coat it with a sealer pretty often, you can keep it looking nice for a long time. Unfortunately, decks take a real beating from the sun, so "maintenance free" is pretty much a myth.
  19. @Stevan Cooper, I'm making an assumption that you may not possess all the tools typically used to accomplish the operations @drzaius suggested, but if you run into trouble, just ask. Some one here has very likely experienced the same situation at some point, and we can walk you through the steps of each task, using the tools you have at hand. I recently watched @James Wright make a seating bench from a fallen tree, and the only man-made tool involved was a half-inch chisel. If that was possible, your project is a piece of cake.
  20. I'd go with the simple mold and cut the openings after. But this is waaaayyyy outside any wheelhouse I may claim, too!
  21. I agree that cedar is most likely, but walnut with included sap looks very, very similar in a photograph.
  22. Nice presentation, too. I've thought about making one of these, and the info you offer on the cutter gives me more motivation. Thanks for sharing!
  23. Lags should work fine, with some caveats. First, the joint shown offers almost zero resistance to "racking", that is force applied horizontally against the table top. Unless you add some diagonal bracing, the legs will snap off quite easily. Secondly, your wording leads me to assume this is a construction lumber project. Be aware that such lumber is NOT dried to the same standards as hardwood, and will be subject to shrinking. This alone is likely to make the joints (and even the lags) become loose as moisture leaves the wood. I would add diagonal bracing to the corners, at a minimum.
  24. Been shopping at the store near my house, I see!