Tom King

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Tom King last won the day on October 30

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About Tom King

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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  • Website URL
    www.historichousepreservation.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Gaston, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    all

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  1. My Mother had a knee replaced at 92, and a hip at 98. She said the knee just plain wore out, but the hip broke. She made out fine with both of them. She said she had been stupid for putting up with a sore knee for so long, until she finally had something done about it.
  2. If you're just going to use the airless for walls, you don't need to worry about the FFLP tips. A standard tip, probably the one that comes with the rig will be all you need.
  3. If you end up going the route of FFLP tips, get a pressure gauge for the pump, if it doesn't have one. The LP tips use WAY less pressure than regular tips. You always have to make test sprays, on cardboard, or wall drape, to find the right pressure. You want the minimum pressure it takes to not have hard lines on the edge of the fan. With a pressure gauge, once you find the right pressure for a given tip, and coating, written record of the correct pressure will let you go right back where you need to be with any setup, without having to spray a quart of paint to find the sweet spot.
  4. It will run one for a little while, as in a piece of furniture. I'm not sure about a set of cabinets. The air needs to be dry too. You can often find airless rigs on CL. If you can find one cheap, and then buy a good gun, it shouldn't be too bad. The pump is not as important as the gun, for personal use. The gun needs to accept FFLP tips. They have a standard thread for the tip guard, so you could probably just get a new end for about any gun. Cheap spray anything doesn't play well with me. There are multiple reasons that pro painters use high end equipment.
  5. For painting a house, inside or out, airless is the tool for the job. For the other stuff, on small projects, airless is not on the top of the list. If you already have a big compressor, get a conversion gun. Some people get, or claim to get, good results using cheap HF guns. I never have been able to. Good quality guns atomize the finish finer, and coat evenly. My favorite gun for small projects is an Iwata LPH80. Whatever gun you get, if you go this way, get setup with the 3M PPS system. If you don't have a compressor setup, get a good HVLP setup. The HVLP can be used for house painting, but it is painfully slow for large surfaces. There again, for me, the cheap ones aren't worth a damn. I do keep a cheap, single stage HVLP, only for spraying well thinned down oil based primer, but that setup does nothing else, and I don't expect it to. For the airless, get a gun that you can use FFLP tips in. That's FIne Finish Low Pressure. They were a MAJOR advance in airless spraying. You won't need it for wall paint, but they work great for trimwork, and cabinets. You could spray all the other stuff on your list with FFLP, but it doesn't make sense for a piece of furniture, since you need so much material just in the hose. Even a 1/4" x 15' hose holds a fair amount of material, and even in best case cleanup, you end up wasting some of it. If you get an airless rig, get at least one tip extension for it, so you don't have to climb ladders, or squat down, to paint a room. Find the Idaho Painter youtube channel, and you can learn all you need to know about airless spraying.
  6. Use a type of wire that has the first two letters "SO". It most likely will be something like SOOW, but the first two letters (long story shortened) are the most important. SJ wire will look similar, but it costs almost as much, and doesn't last as long. Buy Hubbell ends for the wire. On the back of the package will be a diagram that shows exactly how much to strip both the cover, and the conductors. The SO cover is very tough. You can carefully cut into it with a sharp utility knife, but bend the wire away from the cut, and don't quite cut it all the way through the cover. Let the last little bit tear. The insulation on the conductors inside the cover is not nearly as tough as the outside, and you don't want to cut into those. If you aren't comfortable with cutting the cover with surgical precision, carefully chew around the cover with diagonal cutters. Use the correct sized straight blade screwdriver to tighten the screws in the lugs. They need to be Really tight, and it's hard to strip them if you have stripped the wire the right amount, and seated the wire all the way home under the lugs. Hopefully, you remembered to slide the butt end of the connector on the wire before hooking up the conductors to the lugs, and now all that's left is to slide the hull of the connector in place, and tighten the remaining screws.
  7. That Supermax lasted almost a whole afternoon, on a cold, rainy Thanksgiving weekend Saturday. Looks like everything else is gone now too. The Hammer A31, for 2500 was a deal for someone looking for one.
  8. They sell replacement parts, but that cut doesn't look like it will matter a bit.
  9. Tempted to go get that 19/38 for 699. The Hammer looks like a good buy too, for anyone wanting one. https://eastnc.craigslist.org/search/tla?
  10. I needed another router anyway. At first searching, I don't find the base surround dust collection part? edited to add: Nevermind. I forgot to check amazon https://www.amazon.com/Makita-195559-1-Extracting-Attachment-Routers/dp/B00DUUHMS0
  11. Looks like the Tormek stuff is a no-go. Got an email from Zoro saying they had to remove those items from my order, and will no longer be available on their website. They're working on taking them off their website. I think I'll just get one of the cheap clones for now anyway, since I've figured out that I really don't need all the jigs. That Tormek stuff is too expensive for what it is anyway.
  12. 25% off. I wouldn't have ordered it, if it wasn't a deal. I need to go back to water grinding inside the old houses I work on. The CBN grinder works great, but makes too much mess to use inside a house. My sharpening sink has a 92" long top, with drainboard. It's had a spot waiting for a wet grinder. What I wanted isn't on the market yet, but I needed to get something to go to work. Looks like the code is a one use deal. I thought of something else I wanted to get, and went to order it, but I can no longer use the discount code. I'm too tight to pay regular price for almost anything.
  13. I went ahead, and placed my order. One trouble with being sick, is having too much time to kill just sitting here. Some of the things I had put in my cart, like the Tormek T8, with all the jigs, was taken off, and not able to be put back on there. I contacted them, and said that I didn't care how long it was backordered, but they said discount only applies to quick ship. I put the T8, without all the extra stuff back in the cart, and went ahead with the order. I probably don't really need the jigs anyway. I did get the grinding stand that slides on the shafts, and that's all I typically use anyway. It was $576 for the basic machine, which I guess if really not that bad. I also ordered some ladders I wanted, and the 25% off, with free shipping makes them cheaper than I can get them anywhere else, and I don't have to go get them. I don't know how they can free ship ladders, but am glad they do.
  14. Tom King

    Dealing with HOA

    I'm trying not to.
  15. If going with a bagger, I have both a Grizzly, and a Woodtek with the thick bags. The Woodtek is WAY WAY better. Woodtek is the store brand of Woodworkers Supply, but I have always suspected that they come out of the same Taiwanese factory. They also sell the DC with the same, cheaper bags sort of like the Grizzly comes with. Stay away from those.