Tom King

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Tom King last won the day on August 20

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About Tom King

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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  • Website URL
    www.historichousepreservation.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Gaston, NC
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  1. Probably still better than me using a Domino. If I did that, I'd probably also have to use glue.
  2. If you want it to be fancy, find a font you like, that seems carvable, and print it out the size you want. I wouldn't want to do it without one, or two carving chisels though. A skew, and a V parting tool. With a parting tool, maybe even better with a little bend to it, you can carve out simple letters with one pass. With the Skew, you can do much fancier letters with the heel of the skew hitting the middle bottom of the letters. I've done simple ones with just a sharp regular chisel too. With any of them, they need to be deadly sharp.
  3. I was going to post the exact same thing!
  4. Once you've drawn up your cabinets, and know all the frontal sizes of the drawers, go ahead, and order the slides you want. Make a practice box, or two before you make the final ones. You will learn something on the first few you make, and hang. It would be a good idea to have the appliances on hand too. Sometimes it's good to measure how oven doors drop open, and such, so they won't interfere with anything next to them. When setting drawer slides in cabinet boxes, I rip a piece of plywood the right width for the top slides to rest on while being screwed in place. Then that same piece of plywood is ripped to work under the next drawer down, and so forth. If they have face frames, I like to set the drawer slides first, and then mount the face frames. There are fancy things you can buy, or make, but this simple method is foolproof for getting them all just right to start with. If you're making the cabinets in your house, and they don't have to be moved around a lot before being installed, butt joints are just fine, especially for the base cabinet boxes. Plan ahead so you have no plywood edges showing. I built cabinets for all the new houses I built over 33 years of doing that, and I never looked at a book about cabinet making. Not saying it wouldn't be good to have, but I mostly just looked at others to see how they were put together, and figured the rest out on my own.
  5. Mike said we had thrown out that Harbor Freight wet grinder years ago, so we didn't waste any time this morning looking for it. Just as well though, as my diamond paddle files were in the top of the Sharpen toolbox, and I was able to round those corners right off with them. I also found an xx-fine diamond rat tailed file, and that did a good job on the inside the the curves. With the molding plane ready to go, we started in on running multiple setups on the tablesaw to waste most of the material on the outside of the molding profile. I didn't leave much work for the molding plane to do, but didn't start in on that today. I just indicated where the corners of the shoulders were with the first cuts, so there shouldn't be any tearout there when the grain goes the wrong way. Cutting rabbets where the blade exits a side is messy without the overarm DC, but this is one of those jobs that it gets in the way. The originals have a lot of tearout on some pieces, but it's not something anyone notices.
  6. I didn't work on this today, with too much other stuff to do, but I did think about it. I need to round off the little corners that are digging the squarish corners don't in those hollows, and I think it will be there. This is the first thing I've run into where I feel like the 180 grit CBN wheel is too coarse. I'm afraid it would take those tiny corners off too easily to be able to control. In a bunch of other tools that I was left by a friend, there is a Harbor Freight wet grinder. I tried it once, but it's so slow, and over heats so easily that it's not much good for anything normal, but I think it might be just the tool to round over those too sharp tiny corners. I didn't notice who made this molding plane, as I never pay attention to that sort of thing, but they did a really good job of hardening this low carbon steel. I couldn't hardly cut it with my oil stones, but my water stones did a fine job with it. I have it plenty sharp enough already, so don't want to have to reshape the whole profile-just those little corners.
  7. Very nice, and I'm comfortable with your process. I used a piece of sandpaper messing with a molding plane a day, or so ago, and I found myself curling up one side of my upper lip like a dog starting an argument.
  8. Look at how the grain runs, and the only support is at the end. Grain in the stringer, from the inside of the support 4x exits the surface before the next riser. It would probably be okay for some length of time, but what is that length of time? I always try to give support back towards the heal of stringers, as well as the outer end.
  9. It's a simple job for someone with experience, and the right setup. Without either of those, chances aren't too good. I suggest to pay someone to do it for you. Knowing location would help a lot.
  10. Looks good to me! The bottom end of those stringers look a little scary to me. I would sister some reinforcement beside them.
  11. For router templates that I know will get used again, I use 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, epoxy the working edges, and sand smooth. Templates help a lot for repetitive marking tasks, like mortise layouts for multiple sash, cabinet doors, face frames, and such.
  12. The molds with the Plumbers epoxy putty came out pretty good. The reason you see the plastic wrap in a mass around it on the old sash, was so I could take those gloves off, and knead it into good contact with my fingers, before it set up. More tuning on the molding plane today, since I now have a good pattern from the mold. Used a couple of round molding planes, and a sharp chisel. More grinding on the iron, sharpened it, and ran a test piece. A couple of small tweaks on the iron, and we'll be ready to run the profile. I thought I got lucky on this first go. We stopped here for the day, at lunch time. I can see where they liked this European Beech for molding planes. I've never worked any wood that would be better suited, or works as easily, and still seems plenty durable. We'll make multiple setups on the table saw to take some of the bulk away first, and this molding plane will just finish up the profiles. We have air conditioning in this old house that I use, but I left the table saw work for another day. Will be cutting grass until dark tonight, starting after the Sun goes down some. More another day on this.
  13. I'd like to see pictures of the house, and barn. It might be the wood is worth more in those structures, than sold as reclaimed wood. The board looks like some type of softwood to me. Some of it is really dense, and heavy, but I know nothing of what grows there.
  14. I already received the ones ordered a while back, but I was disappointed with the results, and didn't bother to even contact anyone, or at least, I forgot about it. I think it's the surface finish. To start with, they don't raise as smooth a burr as the Crown awl I've been using for so long. I think I can improve them by buffing with some really fine diamond paste. I have the diamond dust now too, but have just been too busy doing other stuff, that this is the first time I've thought about it since then, only by you reminding me. Still no promises about when I'll get around to working on them. That's why I didn't want anyone sending me any money to start with. It wasn't a sure thing. I've had a couple of other things come up this Summer that put me way behind on everything else I was planning to do.