Tom King

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Tom King last won the day on August 21

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About Tom King

  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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    Lake Gaston, NC
  • Woodworking Interests

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  1. Tom King


    I'm throwing away the standard insert. I've seen pieces go down beside the blade, but nothing ever came of them, other than aggravation to get them out. A good excuse to end the possibility.
  2. The first thing I do with those kinds of tool cases is throw them away. Most of them take someone smarter than me to get the tool back in them anyway.
  3. Thanks for the info on the anchors. Saved to favorites folder. I mainly use Greenlee ones that set flush with the surface, with a special Greenlee tool, but sometimes it would be better to set them deeper. The ones you used would be ideal for those situations. The good things about the ones set flush with the surface are that the hole does not have to be an exact depth, and you know what fastener lengths you need to start with. I never got on good with the pound in type. The hole needed to be the exactly correct depth, and you needed an assortment of different length machine screws to get a job finished. Using a machine screw for the insertion tool makes perfect sense. With something thin, to hold it at the depth you want, the exact desired depth should be easy to get. I was first thinking about using a piece of foam under it, but the machine screw to start it is better.
  4. Plastic ones work fine for removing tires, and won't damage the rims. With the tire off, turn the bike upside down to sit on the handlebars, and seat, and spin the wheel to see how true it is. Tighten spokes while truing the wheel. If any spoke protrudes to the inside, past the nut, grind it down, or it will puncture the tube.
  5. Nice thinking on the tree! I like that anchor design. What is the name of it? couldn't read it clearly. For future reference, there are flat ended caps. I've always heard them called "test caps".
  6. Labor Day is for working, right? It was a very pleasant feeling morning, with temp in the '60's to start with, and low humidity, so I didn't want it to go to waste. Behind, and perpendicular to our rental house is another acre of land that went with it, but really separate. It looks like trees were planted on it, but it also has volunteer grass-mostly Bermuda. All the tree limbs were too close to the ground for my mower to cut, even with the roll bar folded down, and I didn't want to be putting the bar up, and down just to cut that one piece of ground. I've been paying the crew that cut the rental house yard to cut it, but it's really only about a 15 minute job with the new mower. Long story shortened some, I decided to limb up the trees enough to be out of the way of the rollbar. I have a Stihl pole saw, but it's the telescopic version, and pretty heavy to use for long at the time. I thought about buying the fixed length, 7' version, which is a lot easier to handle, but decided to try the 18v Ryobi that I keep in the toolbox on the truck. The Ryobi is slow compared to the gas powered ones, but I figured it might be worth saving the $450 for the Stihl, if it could do it. I was really surprised, and it only took me a couple of hours with the Ryobi, and I only had to change batteries once. I drug some of the limbs out onto the paved driveway to the rental house, and since the place where I've been dumping yard trash for 40 years is only a hundred and fifty yards away, I just pushed it. I can push more than I can pile on a truck or trailer, so only two pushes moved the majority of it. I need to drag the rest of it out into the road, so decided to wait for Labor Day busy holiday weekend to pass to get the last of it later this week. I cut what I could with the mower, from where I had cleared the downed limbs, and it's not going to be a bad job at all. Cutting that, and the yard at the rental house might take me a half hour, but will save $150 of paying the cutting crew to do it every two weeks. I'll work for $150 per half hour. I forgot to take a picture before I started "dragging laps", as they call that job around here, but you can see some in the background of the first picture. The deal on the rental house included having to take this along with it. It's kind of in the middle of a lake development, so I'm obligated to keep it up, even though legally, not really.
  7. What are the specs on that chain? I might have some. My Dad had saws like that, but everyone around here ran bows, instead of bars, so I probably wouldn't have a loop that long.
  8. I like everything about it, especially including the colors. Does that saw run?
  9. Tom King


    I would double up those 2x4's flat against the ceiling, and put some more fasteners into those for the legs. With that, I don't think it would be worry, short of an Earthquake.
  10. Sailboat line lasts for decades, and doesn't stretch much. I keep a spool of Marlow 5/32 prestretch on hand for any unusual use that comes up.
  11. You didn't say where you are located, but I know of the best buy in a contractors saw, currently in Idaho. edited to add: That saw has been sold.
  12. That's similar to what I had rigged up. I had turning blocks at the ceiling corner, and the dock cleat down about waist level. That top probably weighed 200 pounds. I'd pass the line through the middle of the dock cleat, and use that as friction to control lowering, and as a jumping point like raising a big sailboat halyard. The 3:1 was on the wall between the corner turning block, and the cleat. I only needed to raise it a few inches, to back the truck under it, and it could wait right there until needed. Nothing wrong with a winch though. I probably just didn't have one when I rigged that up one day.
  13. I used to lift a cap off a pickup similar to that. It had roof racks on it, with a couple of sailboards, and masts, so I just had weighted loops on the ends of line that went over the ends of the rack bars, going through a 3:1 pulley system, and a dock cleat on the wall to hold it up. Just pull the line down, and secure around the cleat. It was an 8' fiberglass top with windsurfing sails hanging inside the top. Even that wasn't heavy enough to require a winch. If the wind was cranking at the coast, we'd drop the cap on the truck, and head that way.
  14. Needed a way to lift the new mower, to be able to take the blades off for sharpening. I kept the magnetic drill press, after buying it for a tractor repair job. At first, I thought I would resell it, but after using it, I couldn't let it go. It came in handy today. I needed a 3/4" hole through three layers of 1/4" steel, and right below is some steering parts under rubber boots. It would have been impossible, and a terrible job holding a big drill by hand. It was a piece of cake with this. This is a stainless steel marine lifting eye with a working strength high enough to lift three of these complete mowers. I lifted it higher than this when I took the blades off, but this was the only picture I took of the loader doing the lifting. Previously, with a much lighter mower, I used a shed rafter to hold a chain hoist. I didn't want to get under that rig with this mower. I'll be installing an I-beam in the mechanic shop for this job, and other lifting.