Tom King

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Tom King last won the day on April 3

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About Tom King

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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    www.historichousepreservation.com

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    Male
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    Lake Gaston, NC
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  1. This morning, I was able to get the new bushings in the front axle body. It weighs every bit of 200 pounds, so I had to go carefully slow, working by myself in this isolation. I was able to roll it around on a moving dolly. I had cut up some leftover scraps of 4x6 into cribbing, figuring I could jump up each of the three "corners", one at the time, by myself. That actually worked great. I could not have done this job, by myself, safely without the cribbing. It was actually kind of fun having to figure it out, and being able to take what time I needed. Some of the cribbing blocks allowed me to get it into position at the shop press, to press in the largest bushing. I had tried to tap it in without the press, but was having an impossible time keeping it straight, and once it got crooked, there was no straightening it back out. I'd have to knock it out with a dead blow hammer, and try again. Once I got it set up on the press, the bearing went right in. The small diameter bushing on the front pivots inside another bushing in the tractor frame. The front of that axle casting was too long to get in the press, but being a small diameter, it was much easier to get lined up so I could pound it in with the 2 pound stone hammer, and some press dies. I stood it against the press, with the back end on the floor, and that went right in too. I got lucky on the big bushing in the frame, and first lick with the dead blow hammer sent it straight enough to finish with a couple of press dies, and the 2 pound hammer. Then I rolled the axle into position under the front of the tractor, installed the bell crank, and started stacking the cribbing, and jumping up each corner. It took me three hours to do all these steps, but I went back to the house to each lunch, and the main axle casting was in the tractor. I had to get Pam to come help me get the axle ends on. I could have done it by myself if I had taken the wheels off, but I called her away from what she was working on, and in fifteen minutes, we had some bolts in each side holding the axle ends on. I spent another couple of hours hooking up the new tie rod ends, and aligning the front tires. This is the first time, since I've owned this tractor, that there is no slop in the front end. The mixed up, for the second time, order of new hydraulic lines is supposed to be here Wednesday, so I might actually get to see if it all works this week.
  2. If it's going to be on a mobile base, just leap frog plywood, and roll it where it needs to go. Have them sit in on the first sheet, and the first sheet overlaps a little onto the second sheet. They don't even need to be full width sheets, depending on the width of the machine. I've built many temporary ramps for steps. The last time I moved a 15" planer like this (where the loader would have torn up the yard), I used a Maasdam rope puller to pull it up the steps, and got it in the house by myself.
  3. Here's what proper large flare nut wrenches look like. Just like the small ones, they slip over the line, then onto the nut, and grab all six corners of the nut, so there is no distortion of the relatively soft nuts with a regular wrench. The crowfoot versions are for use with a torque wrench. If you put them out to the side, there is no correction factor to have to figure in, like there would be if you use it off the end of a torque wrench. The other wrenches are called "service wrenches". They're to hold other fittings on the end of flare nuts. Those fittings typically have narrow lands to try to discourage someone from using a regular wrench. Short handles help to prevent over-torquing. One of my uses for them is on ORB (o-ring boss) fittings/adapters to flare nut taper. Typically, into a casting, there is an ORB fitting with an o-ring between the fitting and the casting. The other end of that fitting is a male threaded end with a taper to accept the flare nut. You tighten the ORB adapter to a proper torque, hold it with the service wrench, and properly torque the flare nut line onto that. In the case of my tractor, where someone had worked on it that didn't know what they were doing, the ORB fittings were grossly over-torqued by the use of a regular wrench on the flare nut, which not only distorted the line nut (flare nut), but crushed the o-ring, causing one of the several such leaks. Picture of torque wrench is just for illustration of crowfoot positioning. I will have to use a short extension to allow clearance for the ratchet head, or use a regular beam type torque wrench.
  4. One of the best systems I use is multiple white dishpans, and cups, to keep up with each assembly's parts. It worked like a charm when I put the tractor back together after the splits. It was a multi-month project, and it helped immensely in figuring out where everything went back. No left over parts, so far. This particular pan was for the forward facing, Mid-PTO, which I never have any need for, but it had to come out to get the Reverse Clutch out. I forget how many of these I used, but it was a fair number.
  5. I wanted to get that bell crank out, rather than beat on it too hard, to get the tie rod ends out. One from a salvage place costs $500. I didn't ask JD how much a new one costs. That one cut off bolt is the one that split, when I was trying to get them out with the bell crank still in the tractor. Once I got it out on the floor, like this, I used the big puller again. When I got the puller as tight as I thought it out to be, with a 2' breaker bar, and 7/8" socket, I hit it hard with the 2 pound hammer, and it came out. The puller got the other one out without hitting it, but by then, I had a better feel for how much I could crank on the puller. I was glad I didn't have to rig up something to hold it up on the shop press, because even this piece is heavier than it looks.
  6. The new lines are already here, but I don't want to crawl under it sitting only on jack stands for the front, so I want to get the axle back under it before I go under the tractor. The axle bushings are supposed to get here tomorrow. They'll sit in the box in the back of the truck for a couple of days, and then I'll press them in, and figure out how to get that heavy axle back on the tractor.
  7. I needed to take the axle apart to be able to handle that center part at all. All the bolts holding the ends onto that center part were well fused with rust. It's hard to do without a cheap, beater screwdriver, which this time proved to be the perfect wedge to start the pieces apart. The fused bolts were 3/4"x5" Grade 8. It took a good half hour to get each side off- had to beat the bolts out with a sledge hammer, after I got them moving with a 4 pound dead blow hammer on a 1/1/8" wrench to turn them the least bit.
  8. It's a 1978 model. The John Deere parts guy said it would be a 2020 when I get through with it. I didn't start out intending to do this much to it, but I keep finding stuff that needs to be redone. I don't know how it worked at all, with that twisted line, but I've used it for 29, or 30 years like that. I couldn't even get the lines to go back together, so I traced it forward. That twisted part was up behind the front frame, and under the hydraulic fluid cooler, so it wasn't in sight. Specs call for torque of 70 to 78 ft. lbs. for that line. I needed two pipes to get the front joint apart. I'll show pics of the big flare nut wrenches after I take some. While I was under there disconnecting the lines, I shook the inner tie rod ends, on that bell crank, and they were scary loose, to the point that I didn't want to drive it like that. Bent a regular puller trying to get them out. Ordered that big assed puller, and it split the bolt end. So, no choice but to take the bellcrank out, to use the hydraulic press, and in the process of getting that out, found out how completely worn out the bushings were on all the pivot points of the axle. So, more tools ordered, more waiting, but all the bushings are out now-a story in itself. That center section of the axle weighs a couple of hundred pounds. One of the best cheap, Chinese tools I've bought. Of course, I ended up having to use them in a non-standard way. That's a fifty buck set of press dies. They go up 1mm each. I ended up being to beat the bushings out, without having to build something to get that beast up to shop press level. The two press dies on the little shaft together: The little one fits inside the bushings in the frame. The bigger one fits the O.D. of the bushings, and the little shaft is for use with a slide hammer. I held that stub with Vise Grips, and hit it with the 2 pound hammer. That worked, in the tight quarters under the front frame. I ruined that slide hammer adapter, but that's the cost of getting the job done. The quarters were so tight under there, for swinging a hammer, that I had to cut a slot through the bushings in order to get them out. They wouldn't budge with blows as hard as I could get on them. In the center axle section, I could get those bushings vertical, and leave penetrating lube on those overnight, but the ones in the frame had to stay horizontal, so penetrant did no good on those, which is why I had to cut them. They'd been in there for 42 years. That one in the last picture was behind the back journal enough that I couldn't get a good swing with the 2 pound hammer, if I put that handle in the die, so I kept stacking smaller ones behind the first one, so I could hit them with the stonework hammer.
  9. Still working on the John Deere, when I get some time. It's back together, from the two splits for the reverser clutch system rebuild, and has been for several weeks. In the process of putting it back together, there are some hard hydraulic lines that had to put back together. They had to be disconnected to split the tractor. I found some serious problems caused by idiots working on it in the past. All the flare nuts were distorted from having regular wrenches used on them. After the nut is distorted, it will leak, so then the unknowing mechanic with tighten it some more. Only flare nut wrenches should ever be used on such line nuts, regardless of their size. These require either a 1" wrench, or 1-1/4" wrenches, and flare nut wrenches do come in those sizes, and even much larger. I ordered what I needed off ebay. All the steps of getting to a place where I need more tools adds time in days, as I order stuff, wait for it to get here, and then leave the packages for a couple of days to make sure any virus is dead. Here is the most visible problem I found, and then found that all the nuts, in the whole system were distorted. That's when I stopped, and ordered the large flare nut wrenches. I also printed out a torque chart, and ordered some flare nut crowsfoot sockets to use on a torque wrench. There will be more posts in this thread, but I need to get to work this morning. This has been quite a project. I'll add a couple of extra pictures, as a teaser for the rest of the process-ended up redoing the front axle too. It's been extra slow, since I'm working by myself, without a helper, like I normally do.
  10. I wasn't sure which forum to put it in. Saw is an old 070. You don't need a chain brake anyway, if you're not going to use the front handle.
  11. I thought about getting a T-shirt that said STFAH, but then I thought that since I'm at home, no one would see it.
  12. We passed three weeks of doing that yesterday. All my Scientist friends have been doing the same. That doesn't include visiting my Mother outside of her Assisted Living place, but we don't get near (way past 6 feet) anyone else. We are going outside here, and I'm working in the shops, but we're not close to any other people.
  13. Visiting my Mother today, at her Assisted Living place. Her 104th Birthday will be April 18th. She was two when she lost family members to the 1918 pandemic. We were after them to stop letting visitors in 3 weeks ago, when we first starting self-isolating ourselves. They did start not allowing visitors for the past couple of weeks. Fortunately, the whole place is on ground level. We kept our distance, and had a nice visit. She's still completely clear headed, and says we just have to do what we need to. She opened her windows, so we could talk through the screen.
  14. Tom King

    Bloxygen vs. ?

    I surprised they still sell it to release into the atmosphere. https://www.airgas.com/msds/001090.pdf Looks like it's not as bad as some: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1-Difluoroethane
  15. I expect the drywall was broken when they cut for, or put that vent in. Second the paper tape.