Tom King

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Tom King last won the day on October 9

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About Tom King

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 06/27/1950

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    www.historichousepreservation.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Gaston, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    all

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  1. There was another, more general list of recommended books, but I can't find it either. I thought it was a sticky at the top of one of the forums.
  2. I would pressure wash the wood with just water, and put it in the Sun for initial drying. I'd probably toss the plywood. Good luck.
  3. It seems like someone should sell that lamp with just a small, magnetic base. I bought some just like, except the clamp base is slightly different, off of ebay.
  4. They're pretty brittle, and cheap. Check ebay for size, and type you want, usually with free shipping. You can buy different diameters for a given screw size, in different thicknesses. The thickness determines the strength. There are Many variations.
  5. If you use the magnets with a screw hole, a plastic cement would hold them. Just let a key form inside the tapered hole in the magnet. I know 3M DP100 would hold like that, but you need the applicators, and it's not a cheap glue like JB Weld, which should work fine, the same way. Those magnets are very fragile, so if you do go machine screws, don't tighten them at all.
  6. I expect the failure is from heat. No epoxy, that I have ever worked with, is good for any amount of heat, long term. There should be some especially for warm environments. The first place I'd look would be at the 3M DP line. There are a bunch of different specialized ones. They come in fairly small "duotubes", and you can meter out a tiny bit with the mixing tips, and special gun, but the components can also just be pushed out of the tubes, and mixed with a little stick. I bought my gun, and get the tips from Golfworks, but none of the golf adhesives are good for heat. edited to add: I just did a Google search, and this new one, on me, turned up: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Epoxy-Adhesive-2214-Hi-Temp-New-Formula/?N=5002385+3291797505&rt=rud edited to add again: That's the most expensive glue I've ever seen: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-20833-Adhesive-Hi-Temp/dp/B072X3NP4Z but I expect there are others that would work fine Once more, this was listed on that same Amazon page for a more down to Earth price: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-37901-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B01IBOBY74/ref=pd_cp_328_2/137-8129970-5464712?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01IBOBY74&pd_rd_r=78b06b8f-7944-411d-bcad-64b385a852ea&pd_rd_w=2be5h&pd_rd_wg=u0YA1&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=EKYH79VGVNDV2AESEHB2&psc=1&refRID=EKYH79VGVNDV2AESEHB2
  7. Couldn't you just enlarge the mortises, and make specific sllding tenon pieces for them?
  8. I don't believe anyone could have done any better! What's the story with the transmission?
  9. Each coffer box is a separate, complete unit. They were assembled before lifting to the ceiling with a couple of sheetrock lifts. The angled edges of the raised panels are separate pieces. Each box was mounted to plywood, protruding past the edges of the boxes, and the plywood, around the edges of the boxes, was screwed to the ceiling joists. There is a 3/4" layer of foam under the ceiling joists that the screws go through into the joists. It's a 10' ceiling in that room. If I ever do that again, the fillers in between the boxes will be in grooves in the sides of the boxes, instead of just butt joints, like that one. It was extra work to get all the but joints tight together with the heavy boxes on top of the wobbly sheetrock lifts. The boxes were nailed together, and then all the pieces stuck in with Powergrab. Powergrab doesn't hold it to the ceiling, but just all the parts together in the coffers. The coffers are about 4' x 5'. It still looks good after being up for 13 years now.
  10. I built this coffered ceiling with nothing but MDF, and Powergrab. The crown molding is MDF too. Shooting any kind of nail into it leaves a crater, which is a pain to do anything with.
  11. Tom King

    *sigh*

    Measuring rarely brings multiple parts together in perfection. Try to avoid it when possible.
  12. I change blades a lot. There are even several cheap Irwins for stuff I don't want to run a good blade through. They're actually better than you might think. I don't know what the deal is with the warping blades. One thin 20t Forrest rip blade gets used a lot. It ran through 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress for ripping the sapwood off of the boards by eye, without a fence, and still gets used for deep cuts such as taking most of the wood off for raised panels. It's never warped, but I use one of the Irwins for running through old, thick, dry stuff that might have a lot of stress in it.
  13. I'm glad he's staying busy making money. I thought maybe he'd changed his sleeping habits. He used to stay up Really late.
  14. Looks fantastic, and more useful information worthy of copying! How are the Acme nuts, and rods secured to prevent rotation? The only thing I would like better is if the rods didn't stick out the front, but rather traveled through the back, and had wooden handles (could still be wheels) rather than metal.