Tom King

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Everything posted by Tom King

  1. I have a toolbox full of palm routers, each with a different roundover bit, from 1/16" radius up to 5/16", ready to go. Larger than that, they get swapped out into larger routers, up to 3/4" radius for building barns.
  2. If you're going to be using a lot of sheet goods, get a slider.
  3. I used to have a flat topped cart on casters. Sheets of plywood would come out of the truck, onto the cart, and it could roll up to the front of the tablesaw. It ended up taking up too much room, but if room was unlimited, I've still have one. Now, a helper takes one side to help place it on the saw, and I hold the far corner from the fence, keeping it against the fence as it's pushed through. The helper catches the offcut, which slides on the outfeed table, but he also helps keep it against the fence when it gets within his reach. We break down cabinet plywood to finished width as it comes off the truck. If I was doing it by myself, I would have to have the flat topped cart/infeed table.
  4. The Craftsman boxes that Lowes sells are more flimsy than the Harbor Freight ones. I did buy this little one though, for not much more than a hundred bucks, just to organize parts in, when I take something apart.
  5. When shopping for tool cabinets, it's worth looking at what Home Depot sells too. Here is the one I bought on Black Friday. Their Husky boxes are much more substantial than the ones sold at Lowes. It has the perfect parking spot for the bad ass magnetic drill press. We're enjoying the wooden top on it too. I forget what I paid for it, but it was a couple of hundred less than the regular price. They only put a few on really good sale on Black Friday's.
  6. I would want it better than that, especially if the blade is squeezing towards the fence. I wouldn't want over a couple of thou the other way, but like dead on. I probably should add that I don't use a splitter, or any other such device.
  7. I keep some Irwin blades for when I don't want to run a good saw blade through something. They're actually better than one might expect. You can usually find them with multiples in a package pretty cheap in Lowes.
  8. I have one of those metal spinner wheels, w/threaded rod, on my old Delta 14". I like it.
  9. and probably not much more than the cost of the drawer slides
  10. It's well packed. I suggest to put blue Locktite on the two bolts that go in the handle, when you put it together. I lost one of those before on my other jack. My tire guy uses four of them for each car. I remembered seeing them the last time I bought tires, and thought that his jacks were probably expensive ones, but after seeing these, I his were Daytona's too.
  11. It might seem strange to have a review of a floor jack on a woodworking forums, but I have used them for moving machines more than a few times. I bought a 40' shipping container recently, and just put it on wooden blocks temporarily. We put it on solid concrete blocks for a more permanent foundation. When we started leveling it, we used the 3 ton floor jack, that I already had, and a bottle jack. It was too scary with the bottle jack, so I went to Harbor Freight, and bought another floor jack, so we could safely jack up one side, or one end without being in harms way. I was surprised at the quality of this jack. I had looked at CL, to see what was available, and there was a SnapOn listed for $400. That SnapOn looks identical to this particular model from Harbor Freight-not close, but absolutely identical. It's also currently on sale for $99.99. I actually bought it a couple of days ago for 129.99, but the salesman told me to bring the invoice back for a price adjustment. I haven't gotten around to it, but will. This thing surprised me, and it operates much better than my old one. I'm sure it will be the first one reached for when we need one. They come in a bunch of different colors. I'm not sure how long the sale lasts, or what coupons might apply. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-orange-64200.html?_br_psugg_q=floor+jack
  12. I keep some of this film from Lee Valley for such jobs. I've lapped rust off of hydraulic rams in hydraulic cylinders on tractor equipment, that looked a lot like that with strips cut from these sheets. It has a very tough backing. I cut strips about 2" wide, and use a shoeshine type motion. I think I bought one of each, but the yellow is plenty fine enough to finish with. You really only need two, or three different grits. You could do the same with wet-or-dry sandpaper, but this has a much tougher backing. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/sheets-and-belts/74729-3m-aluminum-oxide-films-for-sharpening You can use it with oil like WD40.
  13. Are you wearing any polyester clothing? Even a blend will carry a static charge.
  14. I hold it a little farther than is intended, probably. The balance is best for me with my thumb, and index finger forward of the side handle, which means I operate the trigger with my middle finger, instead of my index finger. The day would have been perfect for the lift, but they were all rented out before I called, so I just played with the saw a little.
  15. Just came in. The little saw is pretty impressive, for cutting limbs. There was some assembly required, which wasn't so bad, since I'm used to working on chainsaws. I can see where it would be frustrating for someone who wasn't familiar with them. The little chain came with four loops in it, which at best, are a little bit aggravating to get out. The tension adjuster pin was all the way out, to start with, which wouldn't allow the chain to go around the drive sprocket. All that was really not trouble, since I'm used to looking at all that. The drag links (that's what people call the depth gauges around here-see link below to explain) only allowed a cut depth of about ten thousandths (.010"). I imagine they set them there so a new operator, who might push down on the bar, would still be able to do some cutting. I always cut with a light hand, letting a saw rev up before entering the wood, and then don't press any harder than the saw can eat. I filed the drag links down where it would take a bigger bite, before I even put oil in the tank. Cutting some White Oak limbs, not over 3", I didn't come close to binding the chain. With my light hand cut, it would walk right through the cuts. Holding it, and looking at it, it seems like a toy, but it's not. I took some pictures of the saw, holding it, and next to a circular saw for perspective, but am waiting for my camera to send them to the computer. It's the ideal thing for a climbing saw, or lift bucket saw, but I remembered quickly that I really don't like a top handled saw for anything else. Chain speed is a little slower than I would like, but okay for small limbs. This is something you should check if thinking about buying another cordless chainsaw. I wouldn't touch one with any slower chain speed than this one has, but I haven't looked at the specs. Link to explain depth gauge height. I like to just get them out of the way, and judge cutting speed by feel. https://blog.stihl.com/practical-knowledge/2016/05/softwood-hardwood-choosing-best-setting-depth-gauge/ They're filed with a small, flat smooth file, with no teeth on either edge (to protect the cutting edge) made especially for the job. https://www.pferd.com/int-en/products/files/sharpening-files/depth-gauge-files/flat-chain-saw-files-for-depth-gauges/flat-chain-saw-files-for-depth-gauges/1213-ruk-150-h2/
  16. UPS delivered the little Makita chainsaw after dark tonight. It's a cute little thing. I'll post some pictures, with some testing tomorrow. I've decided to bypass the climbing, and rent a towable 40' man lift. They rent for 200 a day, and I can cut those high Pine limbs with it, and should be able to get all the others too. Wind has been too strong lately, with the warm SW wind, but will get to it when things calm down. I have no desire to try to go up in one of those things when the wind is 25 mph.
  17. I recently bought a vinyl cutter, that will make all the signage like he made for the front of that stand, and look forward to figuring out how to use it. I will never have any time to put into the type of work he did on the mechanics, or even time to spend thinking about it, but did enjoy skimming through that video. If we're working, I'm building something that someone is paying me to do, and never have time of my own to put into such things.
  18. I've seen worse than that on really old, nice pieces of furniture, that I'm sure were built by pros, and the piece sold for a lot of money in its time. You're building your skill level very fast with this, and I appreciate your posting about it. This is one thing I've done very little of.
  19. There is an old house barn, not far from here, that still has such a floor in the ailseway. It's on an early 19th Century Plantation. The floor is in pretty bad shape, but you can still tell what it is, and is pleasant to walk on. It was not creosoted. I'm sure it would have been nice to horse feet with horseshoes.
  20. ...but then I saw the second picture, and that it wasn't a 16". I would have bought it, in that condition, if it was a 16". https://richmond.craigslist.org/tls/d/ashland-larger-jointer/7049063462.html
  21. I would have bought that sander if it didn't have a motor in it at that price.
  22. Happy Birthday! Every time I have one, people ask me what I did, or got, for my Birthday. I always tell them that I don't care much about doing, or getting anything for a Birthday. As long as I keep having them, I'm good.
  23. I didn't know what that was, so I looked it up. I don't have a place for loose tenons in my work. I have two mortising machines, but they're too much trouble to set up for a small number of mortises. Usually, if I have just a few, I'll just chop them by hand. I mostly wanted this thing because I didn't have one, but I'm sure I'll find a use for it. I recently bought the small Makita router kit, with plunge base, so think that will come in handy with this, and also have a Microfence coming to fit that little router.
  24. The seller is going to ship it to me. Shipping is $8 https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/7044587083.html