Tom King

Mentors
  • Posts

    6175
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

Everything posted by Tom King

  1. You guys are a little older than me, but I'm still working more than full time. I figure I'll work until 10 o'clock on the morning of my funeral.
  2. If you don't see what that room adjoins, the natural finished, old Yellow Pine trim looks pretty dumb. The five foot opening in this picture is into that room, and is the opening you see the zipper door in one of the previous pictures. This picture was taken before I put the Vinyl Plank floor down, but the carpet had been taken up. We thought about painting the trim in that room, but it would have just been one more thing to do, so we're letting it go like it is.
  3. Here is a link to those crown brackets. I first ordered one pair, but needed more than that to hold up the 16' MDF crown, so ordered another pair. I'll never put crown up again without them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015M1IKOY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
  4. Let the end of crown hang until you're ready to put the coped mate to it in place. I still cope crown the old way. I use two coping saws, and two jewelers saws. Two of each so I don't have to switch blades from staight to 90 degrees. I like Jewelers saws better for the cove at the bottom of crown. MDF crown is especially fragile for the thin parts of the cope. The MDF boards are just glued up with Powergrab. 12 ton jack is overkill, but probably the smallest hydraulic jack I have. This house is just a couple of hundred yards from our house. I got Pam to come down to help me measure the pieces of crown. Instructions for those crown brackets say to put a roofing tack one inch down from the ceiling. This is 3-5/8 crown. 1-1/4" works better. I don't do sheetrock ceilings in anything. In order to have middle board over plywood joint, it didn't fall on a ceiling joist, so I used Togglers, and machine screws. Plywood fasteners are 2-1/2" medium crown staples, shot on the bead-makes it easier to hide them. Top of wall was rolled with wall paint, and cove on crown painted before putting it up. That left no cutting in up there. When the walls were draped, for spray painting the ceiling, the tape is put right on the upper point of the cove.
  5. Yes, beaded board plywood, but better stuff than the box stores keep in stock. I ordered it through a regular building supply store. It's much smoother than the stuff in the box stores, to start with. Rolled with oil based primer, sanded with 320, and sprayed with Pro Classic. The "boards" are cut from box store MDF. That's my pretty standard ceiling for 8' ceilings. I put that one up by myself, which was a pretty slow go. I bought some brackets for holding the crown molding up, and wish I'd had them 40 years ago. They made putting the crown up easier than with helpers. I'll post some more pictures, once I download them into the computer.
  6. A little bit is unrolled, off the roll, to start the application. The roll of tape is then held flat against the wall, and moved down the line against the way it comes off the roll, so the roll pushes it down in place. Like a tire rolling down the road, but rotating the wrong way. It goes in place right as it comes off the roll. This would not work if there is fillet (little cove) of caulking. In this case, the trim was natural finished wood, with painted walls. The adjoining parts were not caulked, so it was a nice, sharp right angle. It eliminates human error in laying down a length of masking tape, and goes along fairly fast. If I do caulk such a joint, I make sure the caulking only goes where it's needed, and doesn't build up past the plane of the trim. Pam says I need to take a video. I'm sure that's an important part of why this way is so fast. For the crown molding, I rolled the top of the wall, and painted the bottom cove part of the crown, before putting it up. No tape, and no cutting in needed. Here's the room. I hate 8' ceilings. We thought about tearing this house down, and building a good one, but it has enough redeeming features to be worth keeping. Also, a picture of the stained popcorn ceiling. I just put that ceiling up over top of the sheetrock. The paper "catchers" on the sides of the window are to catch a little bit of sheetrock mud sanding dust, where I took the old curtain rod down. I didn't want to drag out the random orbit sander, vacuum, and supplied air just for those two spots.
  7. I stumbled on the fastest, and easiest way to perfectly cut in casing, and baseboards this morning. I put up a new ceiling, and needed to paint the Dining Room in a lake rental house. I had watched a youtube video titled something like "caulking your masking tape", and decided to give it a try. I'm probably fairly good at cutting in with a brush, especially on casing, but the top of a baseboard is no fun for me. I've tried several types of masking tape, including Frog tape, as was used in the video. I've never been That impressed with Frog tape. The caulking method involves putting caulking over the working edge of the tape, painting over it while it's still wet, and pulling the tape off before it dries. I bought a tube of clear, latex caulking to use for this trial, but once I got into it, I decided to skip the caulking step. I tried both Frog Tape, and 3M 2093 Sharp Lines tape. I like how the 3M tape works coming off the roll better, so I only did one side of door casing with the Frog tape. It worked like a charm. I think pulling it off while the paint is still wet lets the paint part cleanly at the edge of the tape, whereas otherwise, it comes off leaving some kind of a jagged edge. I put the 2093 on, and contrary to 3M's directions, I didn't wait 20 minutes for it to set. I used a fairly stiff, cheap paintbrush to make sure it was sealed down good, as I rolled it out. The wood trim in this room is natural finished Pine, and the walls painted this time with S-W Emerald Vanillin, sort of a very pale yellow. After I had done several sections, I timed myself, without getting in a hurry, on a 16' baseboard. From the start of putting the tape on, including painting with a brush, and pulling the tape off, it was close to exactly 3 minutes. It's faster, and easier for me to do this, as good as I am at cutting in vertical casing, on any of this trim. Now, none of this old stuff had been caulked to the point of having a fillet at the joining line of the parts, so that made it some easier. I pulled off a little of the tape to start a section, and reverse rolled it off with the tape roll being held directly against the wall, so it came off in exactly the correct plane. I never did open that tube of caulking. If you read the instructions for the 2093 tape, you will see I didn't follow the instructions. I had that complete room painted today, and cleaned up, ready to move furniture back in tomorrow. I did have to do some sheetrock touchup, and priming those spots to start with this morning. https://www.scotchblue.com/3M/en_US/...4340561&rt=rud I used 3/4" tape. The whole floor was masked, because I sprayed the new ceiling, so there was little worry about the wet paint on the tape, as it came off, getting on anything that mattered. I wish I had known this long ago.
  8. Easy with the right gear puller. Near impossible without.
  9. Looks good, but hole needs to be bigger for a jacket on that beer.
  10. What does the drive side of the Shelix head look like? I expect the first thing you're going to need is a pair of snap ring pliers. Looks like only the one doubled pair of chain sprockets will need to come off, but I could tell better if it was in front of me. Some more disassembly required. Pictures like this, of every step, will be worthwhile. At least everything is easy to get to, and not too dirty.
  11. The top of my wooden tractor canopy is coated with white Flexseal. It has held up fine, including more than I wanted it to outside. I don't see any way to make a pretty surface with it though. No one can see the top of that canopy.
  12. I just lay the block on the sheet of sandpaper, and cut it a little outside the edge with a utility knife. If I had some special jig, it would just be something else to keep up with. I have almost as many utility knives laying around, as pencils.
  13. I quit building new houses in 2007, after selling my last spec house. Everyone in the building business had gotten a lot smarter than me then. My to-do list is longer than I can possibly ever get done. Just keeping up the Ponderosa is more than a regular full time job.
  14. I'm not sure. I guess if the Sun charges the battery enough, it will light up. I don't know when I will have a chance to take a photo at night. It would have to be from the lake, and I haven't been out there at night, for years. Pam, and I used to do a lot of sailing at night, but the place has really been built up, since then, and too many idiots operating boats. When I was building our house, in 1980, we lived in a tent on the lake, with no houses in sight. We'd have the whole lake to ourselves, during the week, and any week nights. We kept a Laser rigged up, and laid over on the beach. All we had to do was flip it upright, and take off. Things are a Lot different here now.
  15. My Sears compressor, that I bought new in 1974, is that color.
  16. The metal looks awfully thin on that tank. Color looks kind of like a Speedaire, but I'd be surprised if that were so. Wonder if the pop-off valve was working, and several other questions.
  17. The solar cell is built into the top of the light. It doesn't get direct Sun much, but plenty to make it operate. The light is just hanging in there, and is easy to replace the whole light fixture. There is one 1/4-20 wingnut, with built in washer that holds the top shut. There are some recessed holes under the top that hold a bunch of spares. I told them not to chase one down the roof if they dropped it. The glasswork on the roof is not real pretty, but like we say in building theater stuff, the "30 foot rule" applies. Roof slope of the cupola is exactly double of the 18 degree slope on the boathouse roof.
  18. People are stopping by our house today, giving me compliments on it. The 4th of July weekend is always crazy at the lake. Everyone that has a place is here, along with multiple guests. I wouldn't live here if it was like this all the time. If you look closely, you may be able to see the stainless steel hinges. The roof hinges to access the solar light. Most cupolas have a copper roof. The roof turns dark, and it doesn't really stand out. I thought white would be more showy, and could be see from way up the lake. This roof is Marine Baltic Birch plywood, with a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth over it, painted with Sherwin Williams Emerald Gloss. There are many Great Blue Herons on the lake.
  19. When you order the Miter 5000, the miter gauge, and sled come in separate boxes, just like if you bought them separately. My sled, that I bought at a Black Friday sale, a couple of years ago, is still in the box. It's a great miter gauge.
  20. Most members here are hobbyist woodworkers. You may get some leads by posting under the General forum on the Forestryforum. Most people there saw local wood, but someone may have some contacts.
  21. My 24" Centauro has flat wheels. It works great with 1" blades. The teeth hang off the front edge of the wheels. All the smaller ones have crowned wheels, and the blades are run mostly centered on the wheels. I don't think it's worth a lot of time even thinking about which is better. I would imagine narrow blades would shorten the life of flat tires, but don't know. I don't worry about it. I run them like they were intended.
  22. If you are spraying them with airless, I've used both of these with great success. I've never sprayed them another way, that required thinning. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/emerald-urethane-trim-enamel https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/proclassic-waterborne-interior-acrylic-enamel If using Semi-Gloss, I like the way the Emerald Urethane looks, a little better. For Satin, I'd probably use Pro Classic.
  23. I hate to think what the value cost of that little pile of framing materials is.