Tom King

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Everything posted by Tom King

  1. I already received the ones ordered a while back, but I was disappointed with the results, and didn't bother to even contact anyone, or at least, I forgot about it. I think it's the surface finish. To start with, they don't raise as smooth a burr as the Crown awl I've been using for so long. I think I can improve them by buffing with some really fine diamond paste. I have the diamond dust now too, but have just been too busy doing other stuff, that this is the first time I've thought about it since then, only by you reminding me. Still no promises about when I'll get around to working on them. That's why I didn't want anyone sending me any money to start with. It wasn't a sure thing. I've had a couple of other things come up this Summer that put me way behind on everything else I was planning to do.
  2. Worth all the effort, and they will be cherished for generations. No other staining, dyeing, or whatever comes close to what fuming does for White Oak. I'm sure they look even better in person, than in pictures here.
  3. As if I don't have anything else to do, I find the price on these very tempting. I owned a chainsaw mill back in the early 80's, with two powerheads. It was not only a lot of work, but the best logs always belonged to someone else, they wanted to keep all the good parts, and I ended up selling the rig. http://cookssaw.com/mp-32-sawmill/
  4. These are what we're replacing. The original sash have 5/8" wide muntins, and one of the reasons for the importance of this house is the transition in architectural details from the early 19th Century to the mid 19th Century. This is one of the last things we're changing that was done to this house in the 1980's. Two windows had been replaced on the back of the house. The sash have large, over inch and a quarter wide, ugly muntins in the replacement sash.
  5. It's hard to have too many molding planes. I bought most of mine from the UK, back when "small packets" could be shipped for 6 to 8 dollars. I have them stored in waterproof boxes, cleaned before being stored, and desiccant canisters in the boxes. I don't need to look at them, or have them sitting out to collect dust. I just want them to only need sharpening to use. There aren't many that I paid over $15 for. IT seems like they stored them in houses over there, whereas most of the ones in this country have been stored in barns. I never felt like I had time to recondition them. This box has my hollows and rounds. I'm not a collector. It doesn't matter to me who made them, how old they are, or if a set is any kind of match. I just want to be able to use one that I need.
  6. My Dad was a wood hoarder all his life. One old stable that was full of wood did collapse on it. If he had known about Spanky, before he left here in 2006, he would have kept a truck on the road, back and forth. I've moved some of it here, but most has just gone to waste in deteriorating old buildings.
  7. This morning, I modified a sash molding plane to match the molding profile I'm copying. The one we need is an odd ogee (all curves). I think whatever plane they used for them had worn down to its own particular shape. I had made a mold from one of the windows, and sent that to Whiteside to see about making a set of custom router bits, like I've used before. I only wanted one of each. Whiteside used to do that, but have updated their production equipment since the last time I bought some, and they now only make orders in multiples of six each, so they sent my mold down the road to another place. I never got around to ordering the bits, and now I'm glad I didn't. They had sent back drawings, for my approval, that looked like they were okay, but all the curved shapes were constant radius-es. I modified an ovolo (sharp inside corners) sash plane that I already have a set of bits to match, because I wouldn't need it again, since I have the bits. I got a test piece to the point that it matched the drawing exactly, but still didn't look right to me. We decided to go back to the 1850 house, and make another mold. In the process, I thought of how to simply make the mold so I could use it to mark the copes by. I didn't think to take one of the sized muntins with me, but the mold was still pliable enough when we got back, that I clamped it around one of the muntin blanks, and will let it set up over the weekend. Oatey plumbers epoxy putty is about the ideal stuff to make such molds from. I had one of the girls where we ate lunch to give me a piece of the really thin plastic wrap they use to for a release film on the old window sash. I hope the pictures tell the story. I used some of my small hollow planes, but the one most useful was a nice little 1/4" skew rabbet plane. Still needed to follow them was a high-tech shaper of sandpaper on a hand split waxing applicator. I think it was the first time I ever used the rounded corners on my CBN wheel, but they turned out to be just the thing for the job on the iron. The molding plane will get a little more modification on Monday.
  8. Nowhere close to being a problem yet. I have an Cousin who called me a short while ago, and asked if I had anywhere he could move his 13,000 ft of Walnut to. It is in an old barn, and he is expecting the barn to fall down any time. That's a problem.
  9. This works for handheld power planers too. That's really how I started setting knives this way. Way back when I first started, I bought several type of dial indicator holders for setting jointer, and planer knives, but the trouble with them is finding exactly where top dead center is, which is a time wasting hunt. I get better surface finish results on wood, which is really what should matter, with this method, than I ever did with dial indicators. I haven't used those things in decades. If you ask me how many thousandths proud the knives are of the outfeed table, or if they're flush, I don't know, and I don't care. I only care about results, and wasting no time getting to those results. When you are getting set up to change knives, run the infeed table up to where the depth indicator reads zero, and the outfeed table up flush with that, if you have moved it, or think maybe you did since the last knife change. Otherwise, you end up having to fiddle with the indicator later, of live with it being off. If both my jointers were in the same place, I'd keep one for general use, and one for finishing. These will take over general duty pretty soon, and it won't be long after that that I will probably drop the outfeed table a hair.
  10. Tools needed: angle hook pick to pull knives up above final position if they drop too low when putting them in behind the gib wrench to fit gib screws strip of the hardest wood you have. I don't know what size this piece of Boxwood is, but it's a good size for the job. A wood not so hard would need to be a little thicker so it could push the knives down without such a large dent sliced into it. The trick is to install the knive so the gib will hold it where you put it, but not slide up, or down without help. Tighten until you feel a little resistance, and then back off a hair. Wrench starts on one of the center gib screws, and rotates the head back and forth. Tail end of the wood stays down on the outfeed table, so it can't possibly push the knife down too far. Rotate the head back and forth while gently pushing down each end of a knife. When you can rotate the head, and feel the knife brushing the wood, ever so lightly, on each end, tighten that screw that the wrench is on, and then after checking both ends again, tighten the other screws. Same for the other knives. Keep moving the position of the wood so the knife is not resting in any tiny groove. Takes maybe 20 seconds per knife, if you don't get in a hurry. No need to measure anything, or how far the knife can pull the wood. Test run a piece through the jointer. Some people I've taught this to end up with a little snipe. That's why jointers have adjustable outfeed tables. I use that adjustment a lot more than most people I expect. One reason some like to leave the knives proud of the outfeed table plane is so as the knives wear, you can still straighten a board. I just adjust the table at that point, but run it back up the next time I set the knives to the point where both tables are in the same plane, to start over again. To adjust the outfeed table, learn which way it goes while you have knives out. I wouldn't mind having one of those Byrd heads, but the time necessary to change those cutters would be a little maddening for me. This way, if you need to run finished sides on the jointer, it doesn't take long to change a set, and saves a lot of time sanding. Picture of wood is piece of Cypress run against the grain. Freshen up the edges of your setting strip while the knives are fresh, so it will be ready to go next time.
  11. Pressure treated needs to dry, around here for at least a year, before it can be painted. I have best luck with oil based primer, followed by Sherwin-Williams Emerald, which is guaranteed for the life of the structure. I've seen Heart Pine, and Cypress that have lasted more than 200 years outside. I don't expect anyone will ever see 200 year old composites. On docks, and decks around here, it's not lasting any better than treated wood. All I've seen looks pretty awful after about 15 years. We have some composite steps on our dog porch, that are 14 years old, and still looking in good shape, but they're on a North side porch that never sees direct Sun, or freezing precipitation.
  12. Today, we ran all the parts to their final size, and I spent a while finding the right molding plane. For running parts like this to final size, I finish two sides on the jointer. The glazing bars and muntins have their last two sides finished at the table saw with an old Forrest Mr. Sawdust blade that never gets used for anything but running small parts to final size. Stiles, and rails, being wider than the 5/8" thick muntins, get finished in a planer. For finishing parts on the jointer, I sharpen up a new set of knives. They don't come as sharp as I like, so I hone them on my sharpening stones as sharp as I can get them. It only takes a few minutes with my installation method-maybe 20 seconds per knife once I have the guard off, and tools needed at hand. For planing to finished surface, I keep a set of super sharp knives in my Grizzly 12" planer/molder. It has rubber feed rollers, and will take off the slightest little thickness with sharp knives. I've been meaning to make a video of my jointer knife installation method, but am always thinking about producing work, so haven't slowed up enough to set up the video equipment. We did take some pictures this morning. We organized the parts in different stacks with tags, to simplify not getting them mixed up, and no worry about remembering what is what. I thought I took a picture after we finished sizing, but the only one I have in my phone is after the two sides were finished on the jointer. After installing the sharp knives, only the slightest bit is run off of any side, just to smooth it up. The picture of the piece of Cypress is light reflecting off of it after running it against the grain, on purpose, just to show the quality of surface. Going with the grain leaves it a little slicker. That's just morning light from the North wall window. I'll post the knife setting method in another thread, but here are the pictures.
  13. That's the nicest looking firewood box I've ever seen.
  14. Here's where those Heart Pine 3x's came from. They were "supports" for 20 foot long 3x3 rafters. The supports were sitting vertically under the rafters, but the rafters weren't lined up above the floor joists, so they set the posts on top of old 1x used flooring boards spanning between the joists. That's the reason we were building the trusses up there to wedge the noodle rafters back into a flat plane. It was nice for them to leave us some good, straight grained 3x3's though. There was a 12 x 14" access door into the attic, but fortunately it lined up nicely with the outside steps so we could pull those 2x12x16's up there with the back doors to the house open.
  15. The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  16. I like to watch this guy work, and remembered this thread about cordless chainsaws. I have all the tree climbing gear, and have used it, but my feet get so tired that I don't like to do it much. Ladders also have the same effect on my feet, so I avoid them as much as possible too.
  17. Very nice indeed. Should be enjoyed for generations at that church.
  18. I have a friend that bought a Baleigh mortising machine. I don't know anything about them, or even what model she bought. Anyway, I was wishing it had been available the last time I needed another one.
  19. That was the best one I've used, until I needed a better one. It doesn't do good through old plaster, and wooden lath. I had a theory about an opening in a wall that is not visible now. I thought it had been plastered over. In other words, two rooms made out of one with a large opening in the middle of partial walls dividing that room, and both completely replastered, and retrimmed. The Franklin wouldn't find the studs, so I ordered that Zircon. That Zircon showed not only all the studs, but that there were large timbers on both sides of my theorized large opening. The studs filling the opening were not as wide as any of the other studs in that house. That Zircon has never failed me since then. It shows the center of a stud too.
  20. I've still been buying books, but have been too busy, or too tired to look at them. I did order another shelf for the Barrister Bookcase, and hope I can slip it in without Pam noticing. She did tell me to stop buying books until I had somewhere to put them, but I will have somewhere now. That bookcase will just be taller, but that room has a 10' ceiling. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Barrister-Bookcase-Section-Sized-D-12-1-4-for-Large-Books/333150377721?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Anyway, this book came, and the box it came in was so heavy that I thought it was some tool that I ordered that I didn't remember. Thinking it was a tool, I threw the box in the back seat of the truck, and just took it out at the shop today. It wasn't a tool, but a Very Heavy book. It has over 600 pages, and is a very high quality printing. Southern-Furniture-1680-1830-The-Colonial-Williamsburg-Collection It's probably the most awesome book I've opened on Colonial Furniture. There are Many color photographs. They show the backs of the pieces, and pieces like chests of drawers also have pictures of the carcasses with all the drawers taken out, and pictures of tables inverted. There are closeups of inlays. You will see many of the original pieces that have inspired later versions that you recognize. I've had this book in my watchlist on ebay for a good while. They have always before been way too expensive. I keep several of the expensive books in my watchlist, and by doing that, when another one comes up for sale, I see it, and can jump on it if the price is right. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southern-Furniture-1680-1830-The-Colonial-Williamsburg-Collection-LG-hardcover/153568943091?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
  21. My general purpose one is a Zircon model similar to this one. I didn't see the model I use still listed on the Zircon site. It has never let me down. I've bought, and tossed multiple cheaper ones. https://www.zircon.com/tools/multiscanner-i320-onestep/ Here's the one I use for installing crown molding. I use it to put the molding in place, by holding it under, with one hand, and the other hand is holding the nailgun. https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/ref=asc_df_B0195K8OT4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309760780746&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7383924538952835970&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009793&hvtargid=pla-421592047370&psc=1 I found the exact general purpose one that I use on the same Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J39MJEI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01J39MJEI&pd_rd_w=sqA3n&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=RKmI4&pf_rd_r=KEQ5YB9BV672GJ6TCGHS&pd_rd_r=03f5aa3d-82e2-4255-9bd1-4a9dcc9d2b61
  22. I don't know that I've ever seen a better first one than that!
  23. Rare Earth magnets are handy for finding all sorts of things. I use little ball ones for finding threaded inserts behind copper flashing, so I can mark exactly where to punch a hole for the bronze machine screw.
  24. I use two for different things. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow to see what make, and models they are. I have so many thousands of tools for different things, and I don't even try to remember all the details. One only gets used for putting up crown molding. It has a row of lights that show the exact location of the full width of a stud, and is about 5" long with a straight side, that makes it good for holding the crown molding up to a mark, making crown molding simply a two handed job with a nailgun in the other hand. The other finds different things, deeper in walls, such as under thick, old plaster, and lath.