Tom King

Mentors
  • Content Count

    5237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Everything posted by Tom King

  1. I only use micro-bevels if sharpening with oil stones, simply because they cut so slowly. I only use the oilstones if we are somewhere without water. The vast majority of the time, I use waterstones. I don't use micro-bevels with waterstones, and never use the "ruler trick" on anything. My edges are probably as sharp as possible. There is nothing wrong with using micro-bevels. I just don't like to grind any more than I have to, and by not changing the bevel angle, no edge visits a grinder unless it's damaged. I think it was actually David Charlesworth that invented the ruler trick. 1st picture is an old Marples chisel rolling up shavings on a Heart Pine tenon offcut. 2nd picture is of the micrometer on the larger shaving in the first picture. 3rd Picture was already stored here, and is of a shaving taken by an A2 iron that a member here was having trouble sharpening. We didn't know what type of steel it was to start with. It was sharpened quickly with no micro-bevel. The shaving was taken by putting that iron in one of my old Stanley no.4's, and was too thin, and fragile to measure with a micrometer. No micro-bevels, or ruler tricked edges, and all sharpened very quickly, but I do have a dedicated sink for sharpening when I use water stones.
  2. You did more with a 6" jointer than anyone I've ever known.
  3. Use the jig to make a plywood one. The plywood jamb jig can be used either way on the jambs. I have an old Craftsman one that clamps to the door without requiring any holes in the door. The thing that keys off the top of a door can be used on either end for doors that swing opposite. That one has been used for 45 years. I have a plywood one for the jambs, that can be used either right, or left handed. I screw the door jig to the jambs where the stops will do, so no holes to worry about. For exterior jambs, I just chop them by hand, since there are never many of them. Sometimes, I'll hog out most of the material with a router, and sometimes just with mallet, and chisel.
  4. There was another, more general list of recommended books, but I can't find it either. I thought it was a sticky at the top of one of the forums.
  5. I would pressure wash the wood with just water, and put it in the Sun for initial drying. I'd probably toss the plywood. Good luck.
  6. It seems like someone should sell that lamp with just a small, magnetic base. I bought some just like, except the clamp base is slightly different, off of ebay.
  7. They're pretty brittle, and cheap. Check ebay for size, and type you want, usually with free shipping. You can buy different diameters for a given screw size, in different thicknesses. The thickness determines the strength. There are Many variations.
  8. If you use the magnets with a screw hole, a plastic cement would hold them. Just let a key form inside the tapered hole in the magnet. I know 3M DP100 would hold like that, but you need the applicators, and it's not a cheap glue like JB Weld, which should work fine, the same way. Those magnets are very fragile, so if you do go machine screws, don't tighten them at all.
  9. I expect the failure is from heat. No epoxy, that I have ever worked with, is good for any amount of heat, long term. There should be some especially for warm environments. The first place I'd look would be at the 3M DP line. There are a bunch of different specialized ones. They come in fairly small "duotubes", and you can meter out a tiny bit with the mixing tips, and special gun, but the components can also just be pushed out of the tubes, and mixed with a little stick. I bought my gun, and get the tips from Golfworks, but none of the golf adhesives are good for heat. edited to add: I just did a Google search, and this new one, on me, turned up: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Epoxy-Adhesive-2214-Hi-Temp-New-Formula/?N=5002385+3291797505&rt=rud edited to add again: That's the most expensive glue I've ever seen: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-20833-Adhesive-Hi-Temp/dp/B072X3NP4Z but I expect there are others that would work fine Once more, this was listed on that same Amazon page for a more down to Earth price: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-37901-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B01IBOBY74/ref=pd_cp_328_2/137-8129970-5464712?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01IBOBY74&pd_rd_r=78b06b8f-7944-411d-bcad-64b385a852ea&pd_rd_w=2be5h&pd_rd_wg=u0YA1&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=EKYH79VGVNDV2AESEHB2&psc=1&refRID=EKYH79VGVNDV2AESEHB2
  10. Couldn't you just enlarge the mortises, and make specific sllding tenon pieces for them?
  11. I don't believe anyone could have done any better! What's the story with the transmission?
  12. Each coffer box is a separate, complete unit. They were assembled before lifting to the ceiling with a couple of sheetrock lifts. The angled edges of the raised panels are separate pieces. Each box was mounted to plywood, protruding past the edges of the boxes, and the plywood, around the edges of the boxes, was screwed to the ceiling joists. There is a 3/4" layer of foam under the ceiling joists that the screws go through into the joists. It's a 10' ceiling in that room. If I ever do that again, the fillers in between the boxes will be in grooves in the sides of the boxes, instead of just butt joints, like that one. It was extra work to get all the but joints tight together with the heavy boxes on top of the wobbly sheetrock lifts. The boxes were nailed together, and then all the pieces stuck in with Powergrab. Powergrab doesn't hold it to the ceiling, but just all the parts together in the coffers. The coffers are about 4' x 5'. It still looks good after being up for 13 years now.
  13. I built this coffered ceiling with nothing but MDF, and Powergrab. The crown molding is MDF too. Shooting any kind of nail into it leaves a crater, which is a pain to do anything with.
  14. Tom King

    *sigh*

    Measuring rarely brings multiple parts together in perfection. Try to avoid it when possible.
  15. I change blades a lot. There are even several cheap Irwins for stuff I don't want to run a good blade through. They're actually better than you might think. I don't know what the deal is with the warping blades. One thin 20t Forrest rip blade gets used a lot. It ran through 10,000 lineal feet of Cypress for ripping the sapwood off of the boards by eye, without a fence, and still gets used for deep cuts such as taking most of the wood off for raised panels. It's never warped, but I use one of the Irwins for running through old, thick, dry stuff that might have a lot of stress in it.
  16. I'm glad he's staying busy making money. I thought maybe he'd changed his sleeping habits. He used to stay up Really late.
  17. Looks fantastic, and more useful information worthy of copying! How are the Acme nuts, and rods secured to prevent rotation? The only thing I would like better is if the rods didn't stick out the front, but rather traveled through the back, and had wooden handles (could still be wheels) rather than metal.
  18. Good choice! I found out about those top holes the hard way too. I added another dust port in the lower hinge corner of the lower door, on my old 600, and it helped dust collection a lot. Even though machines this size are still bandsaws, they put resawing several leagues ahead of the typical hobbyist bandsaw, and seem like a whole new category of woodworking machinery when you first run one.
  19. Thanks for posting that. I have a bunch of places I can use those.
  20. Those will work fine. Saw sharpening is kind of like riding a bicycle. It's easy once you get a feel for it. Sharpening a saw is not a long job. You do need good lighting, and good sight. If your vision is not the best, use whatever help you need. Buy a junker saw to practice on to start with, and don't try to take shortcuts. Joint first, and use the little flat to judge how much to take off. Ideally, you want to take half of the jointed flat off the top of a tooth going one way, and the other half after you turn the saw around, and go the other way.
  21. There is no reason for the grinding to be slow, just because the wheel is in water. That's why I intend to use diamond wheels. The same grit, at the same speed, won't be any slower than a CBN wheel. The reason standard wet grinders are so slow to move metal, is a combination of the wheel speed, and grit of the wheel. I'm done with standard Tormek types too. I want the speed, smoothness, and steady diameter of the CBN wheel, but without the problem of containing the debris. We can't dry grind in the houses we work on, or at least, not worth the trouble. I know it will take some playing with, but that's why I want variable speed. My sharpening sink, even though the top is a 92" stainless sink top from a hospital, is still portable. It doesn't get moved often, but can easily be moved. It even has its own little water heater. We use sharp chisels for many things other than just for woodworking.
  22. I'm giving up on dry grinding, and going back to a wet grinder, for this type of grinding. One like I want is not made, so I'm planning to cobble one together myself. I don't want to give up on the non-diameter changing advantage of the CBN wheels, so the plan is to go with wet diamond wheels. I had given up thinking about it for a while, but this weekend I saw (new to me) reversing servo motors for commercial sewing machines, which solves the previously very expensive variable speed reversing motor problem. The sewing machine servo motors are less than a couple of hundred dollars for a nice motor, and controls. There will have to be a belt drive to a spindle holding a couple of wheels. My sharpening sink is 92" long, so it can sit on that drainboard.
  23. On our Rigid vacs that collect in the barrel, we run the Gore filters that can be cleaned with a water hose. I think I have five filters for the two vacs, so we have a dry one, while the wet ones are drying. For sanding plaster, and cleaning up such fine dust, we use a Shop Vac with the yellow bags. I just bought a new, large Shop Vac last week, for catching small diamond wheel Dremel dust, cutting old, installed tile. The other one lasted over 20 years of a few hours of use a year. Those vacs have another filter inside the head. If one gets so it doesn't suck good with a clean filter, take the motor housing apart, and clean the foam filter in there. The motors eventually get tired, but they last for many hours. We use them in too rough conditions to justify putting a lot of money into one. I've never seen these Vacmaster ones, but I don't get out much.
  24. I built cabinets out of Pine for years, since my houses had a lot of T&G in them, and Pine trim. That was in the days when YP was stable, and readily available in all grades, sizes. There were, and are still no hardwood suppliers anywhere near me. Here are some pictures I already had in these Forums. First is just YP. The hutch is made up of leftover wood scraps from a Heart Pine kitchen that was built in 1981 to the same design as that hutch, so apologies for the poor grain match, but no pictures readily available for that kitchen. Table was originally in the same kitchen as those Heart Pine cabinets. The inside of that house is pretty typical of the houses I built, and sold, for 33 years on the lake. That particular house was built in 1991.