Tom King

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Everything posted by Tom King

  1. Tom King


    I'm throwing away the standard insert. I've seen pieces go down beside the blade, but nothing ever came of them, other than aggravation to get them out. A good excuse to end the possibility.
  2. The first thing I do with those kinds of tool cases is throw them away. Most of them take someone smarter than me to get the tool back in them anyway.
  3. Thanks for the info on the anchors. Saved to favorites folder. I mainly use Greenlee ones that set flush with the surface, with a special Greenlee tool, but sometimes it would be better to set them deeper. The ones you used would be ideal for those situations. The good things about the ones set flush with the surface are that the hole does not have to be an exact depth, and you know what fastener lengths you need to start with. I never got on good with the pound in type. The hole needed to be the exactly correct depth, and you needed an assortment of different length machine screws to get a job finished. Using a machine screw for the insertion tool makes perfect sense. With something thin, to hold it at the depth you want, the exact desired depth should be easy to get. I was first thinking about using a piece of foam under it, but the machine screw to start it is better.
  4. Plastic ones work fine for removing tires, and won't damage the rims. With the tire off, turn the bike upside down to sit on the handlebars, and seat, and spin the wheel to see how true it is. Tighten spokes while truing the wheel. If any spoke protrudes to the inside, past the nut, grind it down, or it will puncture the tube.
  5. Nice thinking on the tree! I like that anchor design. What is the name of it? couldn't read it clearly. For future reference, there are flat ended caps. I've always heard them called "test caps".
  6. Labor Day is for working, right? It was a very pleasant feeling morning, with temp in the '60's to start with, and low humidity, so I didn't want it to go to waste. Behind, and perpendicular to our rental house is another acre of land that went with it, but really separate. It looks like trees were planted on it, but it also has volunteer grass-mostly Bermuda. All the tree limbs were too close to the ground for my mower to cut, even with the roll bar folded down, and I didn't want to be putting the bar up, and down just to cut that one piece of ground. I've been paying the crew that cut the rental house yard to cut it, but it's really only about a 15 minute job with the new mower. Long story shortened some, I decided to limb up the trees enough to be out of the way of the rollbar. I have a Stihl pole saw, but it's the telescopic version, and pretty heavy to use for long at the time. I thought about buying the fixed length, 7' version, which is a lot easier to handle, but decided to try the 18v Ryobi that I keep in the toolbox on the truck. The Ryobi is slow compared to the gas powered ones, but I figured it might be worth saving the $450 for the Stihl, if it could do it. I was really surprised, and it only took me a couple of hours with the Ryobi, and I only had to change batteries once. I drug some of the limbs out onto the paved driveway to the rental house, and since the place where I've been dumping yard trash for 40 years is only a hundred and fifty yards away, I just pushed it. I can push more than I can pile on a truck or trailer, so only two pushes moved the majority of it. I need to drag the rest of it out into the road, so decided to wait for Labor Day busy holiday weekend to pass to get the last of it later this week. I cut what I could with the mower, from where I had cleared the downed limbs, and it's not going to be a bad job at all. Cutting that, and the yard at the rental house might take me a half hour, but will save $150 of paying the cutting crew to do it every two weeks. I'll work for $150 per half hour. I forgot to take a picture before I started "dragging laps", as they call that job around here, but you can see some in the background of the first picture. The deal on the rental house included having to take this along with it. It's kind of in the middle of a lake development, so I'm obligated to keep it up, even though legally, not really.
  7. What are the specs on that chain? I might have some. My Dad had saws like that, but everyone around here ran bows, instead of bars, so I probably wouldn't have a loop that long.
  8. I like everything about it, especially including the colors. Does that saw run?
  9. Tom King


    I would double up those 2x4's flat against the ceiling, and put some more fasteners into those for the legs. With that, I don't think it would be worry, short of an Earthquake.
  10. Sailboat line lasts for decades, and doesn't stretch much. I keep a spool of Marlow 5/32 prestretch on hand for any unusual use that comes up.
  11. You didn't say where you are located, but I know of the best buy in a contractors saw, currently in Idaho. edited to add: That saw has been sold.
  12. That's similar to what I had rigged up. I had turning blocks at the ceiling corner, and the dock cleat down about waist level. That top probably weighed 200 pounds. I'd pass the line through the middle of the dock cleat, and use that as friction to control lowering, and as a jumping point like raising a big sailboat halyard. The 3:1 was on the wall between the corner turning block, and the cleat. I only needed to raise it a few inches, to back the truck under it, and it could wait right there until needed. Nothing wrong with a winch though. I probably just didn't have one when I rigged that up one day.
  13. I used to lift a cap off a pickup similar to that. It had roof racks on it, with a couple of sailboards, and masts, so I just had weighted loops on the ends of line that went over the ends of the rack bars, going through a 3:1 pulley system, and a dock cleat on the wall to hold it up. Just pull the line down, and secure around the cleat. It was an 8' fiberglass top with windsurfing sails hanging inside the top. Even that wasn't heavy enough to require a winch. If the wind was cranking at the coast, we'd drop the cap on the truck, and head that way.
  14. Needed a way to lift the new mower, to be able to take the blades off for sharpening. I kept the magnetic drill press, after buying it for a tractor repair job. At first, I thought I would resell it, but after using it, I couldn't let it go. It came in handy today. I needed a 3/4" hole through three layers of 1/4" steel, and right below is some steering parts under rubber boots. It would have been impossible, and a terrible job holding a big drill by hand. It was a piece of cake with this. This is a stainless steel marine lifting eye with a working strength high enough to lift three of these complete mowers. I lifted it higher than this when I took the blades off, but this was the only picture I took of the loader doing the lifting. Previously, with a much lighter mower, I used a shed rafter to hold a chain hoist. I didn't want to get under that rig with this mower. I'll be installing an I-beam in the mechanic shop for this job, and other lifting.
  15. Here's one of my more complicated coping sleds. I make them as needed, which often requires a special backer to prevent tearout. This backer made from Boxwood. They either register off a fence, or the edge of the table.
  16. I was getting ready to build a shop, designed around a lift. We already had a 24x40 building, that I use for mechanic work, but it's been filled with storage junk, mostly by our children, for a couple of decades. Finally, I started cleaning that building out, and have it cleaned out, and organized, down to one corner. I'm planning to put the lift in there, and where I was planning to build a 24' wide extension down one side for mechanic work, I'm now planning to still build that, but make it a woodworking shop. Maybe next Spring. I'm still working on getting the first part of that building organized. I had dug the footings, but then my Mother had to move in with us, and that slowed everything down. I'll have to redig those footings, because they've filled in some since I dug the trench.
  17. This thing is Awesome. This morning, I cut all the grass around the house, barn, field in front of the house, yard of the rental house, and all the way around that point, in an hour and 20 minutes. During that time, I also cut stuff that has never been cut before, like pushing the edge of the woods back outside one of the dog pens that was too steep for anything else I've had. It's probably somewhere between 4 to 5 acres. Back when I was hiring a guy to run a homeowner range 54" zero-turn mower, it would take him two 5 hour days. I've have to go get him, feed him lunch, and take him back home, and pay him at least $100, on top of other expenses. It would have been several hundred dollars to hire a regular crew. One had been cutting the rental house, and that was $75 every two weeks. Just that didn't take me more than 15 minutes. I started at 9, finished, had the mower completely rinsed off, and back in the closed shop by 10:30. The motor loves gas, but that's inconsequential, as it's still way less gas than was burned before.
  18. Not any more. I was a Charter subscriber to FWW, but stopped taking it in the mid '90's.
  19. No finish is going to provide enough protection for a wooden table to sit outside that is not constructed from a wood good for it, nor a construction method appropriate for it. In short, there is no long term solution for this.
  20. That day was my most memorable sailing day ever, and I have a lot of them. A big school of Dolphin stayed with us, for a long time. They were all among the hulls of the 17's. It was downwind with Big waves. The kind of waves where you look back, and all you see is the wake tracks of the hulls up the wave behind you, and can't come close to seeing the horizon. We'd ride one wave for a quarter mile....FLYING! They call them 10 foot waves over there, but here, we call them 20 footers. A couple of the Hawaiian guys were dragging fishing lines, with lures on the surface, and caught a couple of pretty big Ahi. They were going to cook them that night, but I had to catch a flight back to Maui, in a wet bathing suit. There was a Big Dolphin that would surf back and forth between the front of the hulls of the boat I was sailing. He'd be down under water, close enough to touch, if I didn't have to sail the single-handed boat. He'd cut out under one of the hulls, go up to the top of the wave I was on, slide down the surface for a bit while he was catching a breath, and go down between the hulls again. I lost count of the number of times he did that. We were going pretty fast, and when we met the school a little ways to one side of us, it was like being in an airplane, and seeing one going the other way. A few minutes later, they were all among us, headed in our direction. They probably stayed with us for 15 minutes. I think we were good entertainment for them, and they for us. I love it over there, and would have been back a lot more, but that's an awfully long plane ride from here.
  21. Probably try just putting Matt over the top of that first. Try a small area, and see how it does. It may need light sanding first, but if it's still tacky, it probably will bond. See if you can find out the brand, and type he used, and post that. I spent some time on Maui, back in the '80's, when I used to do a lot of Windsurfing. Sailed cats over where you are, and one day helped Deane Froome sail some Hobie 17's from Ka anapali to Oahu, after the Hobie 17 Worlds. I know Maui pretty well, but even back then, the road traffic had gotten to the point that it was pretty severe. If I didn't live where I want to here, I'd live there.
  22. It seems like it makes a tremendous difference. If you're going fast over rough ground, it's still not comfortable if you're sitting back in the seat, but I sit forward with only my butt in the seat, and the machine can bounce around under me. Without the air ride seat, I'd have to slow down a Lot, like I used to have to in a regular seat. One "improvement" this one has over the last version, is the air in the seat is electrically controlled by a switch. The last iteration had a knob. I'd really rather this was still just the knob, because I won't change it anyway, once set, and the electrical stuff is just something else to stop working. I really was about to buy a Ferris, with full suspension, but a regular zero turn would slide in the lake. The front wheels on a regular zero turn just caster, and if the back wheels slide at all, the front wheels say, okay, we're going that way. I've pulled several zero turns out of the lake with my tractor. They make a dual rear wheeled version of my mower, but it's a lot more expensive with extra stuff I didn't want, like electric lift on the deck. Mine has the exact same drivetrain. I figured I'd add the second set of rear wheels, if the need came up, but after yesterday, I'm more glad I didn't get the dually. I did get the dealer to check on the parts needed for conversion, and surprisingly it was only $169 for one adapter. I did order an extra set of wheels, and tires with higher traction tires. They didn't come in yet, and I'm not sure if I will cancel them yet, or not. One thing about the dual rear wheels is that they do tear up the grass in tight turns. I figured I'd put the high traction tires on the inside, and these turf tires on the outside. edited to add: Even on rough ground, you're still sitting on air, but I think it's the rocking motion that is bad on your back when sitting back in the seat. I hadn't thought about it, until you asked, and I just have the few hours of experience from yesterday.
  23. Yes, a Cub Cadet. They're the only ones that make a zero turn with steerable front wheels, linked to the back hydraulic drive units, that lets it hold a side slope. It weighs 2,000 pounds. Those front tires are 16" in diameter. I cut stuff today that I've never been able to cut before. Our whole place is going to look a lot better than it ever has before, with Much less work output than it has been. Our two small pastures look like lawns now. I moved it with the gooseneck trailer, using the back ramps. The spaces between the angle iron in the back ramps have 8" gaps. They work fine for a tractor, but I was worried that this wouldn't go up the ramps. It was no problem. The slope around that big rock, in the one picture on the shoreline, is steeper than 45 degrees. I drove it down the slope, turned it around on the rock, and mowed up the slope. It took about four trips, angling up different ways. It's bigger than it looks in the picture.