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..Kev last won the day on October 31

..Kev had the most liked content!

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About ..Kev

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  • Birthday 07/08/1968

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    : Kalispell, MT
  • Woodworking Interests
    Whatever needs built

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  1. IMO, DC is very important! Obviously, the crap you breathe in isn't good for you but, how about the time you spend cleaning up all the dust you're making instead of continuing to work on projects? And, to boot, There's some pretty inexpensive options out there! Again, just my opinion but, you need the big 3 first. Table saw, jointer, and planer. Coming in at 3.5 would be the dust collection. I'd rather work on projects that clean the shop. As an additional note, the more energy you invest in good dust collection the more enjoyable spending time in your shop is. You'll note I said energy, not money. As I said before, there's lots of inexpensive options out there.
  2. The cup and the crack are a symptom of the wood drying and acclimating. Wood is going to move regardless of anything you do to prevent it. Let it acclimate and move and then decide what you have to do to correct what Mother Nature did.
  3. I have a set of the Paolini Rules that just never made it into my workflow. I'm paying it forward by giving them away and paying for shipping. US entries only.. Directions for entry in the video.. For the record, these are mine. I paid for them and am giving them away.
  4. Plain and simple.. A track saw does not replace a table saw. Not even close.
  5. I wouldn't worry about direction with a split top. Flatness is a very open debate when it comes to bench tops. Even though I have a torsion box assembly table, I don't really think that it's imperative that a bench top be dead flat. Those 2 slabs are going to move with seasonal changes but, hopefully evenly across the grain and not causing you any issues.
  6. Well, they're going to move! They always do. Are you gluing them together or doing a split top? If you're gluing, I would consider alternating them to help avoid cupping.
  7. I edited your post for language, we're family friendly here.. Welcome to the forums! You could do some mild milling on it but, I suspect it's not done moving! Winter is usually the driest time with the lowest humidity. I would store it in your garage on stickers and just monitor it for a month or 2. If you need it faster, finding a home for it indoors will help that process. I couldn't possibly predict how much faster.
  8. ..Kev

    Spoke Shaves

    I'll be the first to admit that I don't use mine as much as I probably should! I don't think you'd have any issues with the arthritic paid if the cabinet scraper doesn't bother you. I've got some shaping on a project coming up and it's my intention to use the spoke shave purely because you made this post and reminded me...lol
  9. If you up your power, I'd be looking hard at the 1023!
  10. This looks to me like the wood wasn't allowed to move. The lag holes in the steel legs don't look slotted? You have to allow the wood to move or this will certainly happen, especially on a piece this large. As for the fix, I would have to seriously consider cutting the table in half length wise, reflatten the 2 halves and then glue it back together. Just remember to allow for wood movement when attaching the legs. You can still tighten the bolts down but, create slots in the steel that go across the grain of the wood. Make the slots pretty wide as it's obvious that this slab moved a lot! Use washers on the bolts if the head of the bolt is a little too small for the slot you cut. For the record, I think this has more to do with not allowing for wood movement than it does your finishing regimen. Good luck! Really nice table!
  11. I'd pull the pin.. You'd have to do that to change the blade anyway and I'm guessing they're going to have you do that in the trouble shooting process. Probably better to know before the call.
  12. Just my 2 worth.. When I'm at the lathe, I try and follow the proper path and sharpen often. This is why I set my Tormek and my slow speed grinder next to the lathe and at bench top height. I know myself well enough to know that if there's extra steps involved, I'll most likely push that tool to the point where the sharpening takes much longer and it's really a process I don't enjoy. Obviously, every shop is different in available space etc. Like I said, just my 2 worth.
  13. With respect, I'd chose neither. For starters, about the only thing from Harbor Freight I'd spend money on that has a motor is the dust collector. The other saw, at that price point, I just wouldn't have any faith in without getting to test drive it extensively before buying. My suggestion would be saving a little more and buying a quality proven product that will have some long term customer support and a history that warrants your dollars. That doesn't mean you have to mortgage the house and buy the Kapex but, there's a ton of middle ground in the miter saw arena!
  14. Looking sharp! Look into "Kitchen Aid" lift for the grinder. They're used to store Kitchen Aid mixers in a kitchen cabinet. I used one in my OF table for my spindle sander and it works great to get the sander up to a working height. I can hunt a link if you need it... I bought mine at Lowes.