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..Kev last won the day on December 16 2020

..Kev had the most liked content!

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About ..Kev

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  • Birthday 07/08/1968

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    : Kalispell, MT
  • Woodworking Interests
    Whatever needs built

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  1. The over arm dust collectors are only picking up minimal material from the top of the blade while the majority of the DC is still happening at the bottom of the saw on a 4" hose.
  2. ..Kev

    Harvey HG 36

    I don't normally post my videos on here out of respect but, thought you all might get some use out of these. This is my review on the Harvey MG-36 Miter Gauge as well as adding a 0 clearance fence to it.
  3. Moved.. Deep breaths! Get some air....
  4. Tpt is correct, it will change a lot over time regardless of finish. Some It's best to do a light sanding just before finish to even things out as best you can and then apply your finish.. Some people will even set their projects out in the sun before finish to quicken that darkening process.
  5. I cleaned up this thread. There was no need for the original comment as well as the piling on.
  6. @Spanky He has a mill and kiln in your neck of the woods.. I tagged him so, hopefully he'll respond.
  7. I'll second the HH in both machines! As for the machine, you have quite a few machines on your list! I think you'd be happier in an 8" machine and I haven't looked at any numbers. Would be a tough choice for me between a 6" machine with a HH and an 8" machine with knives that I could upgrade later.
  8. In that case, he should have access to a rivet squeezer which will go much faster! This is what I got my training on... Many moons ago!
  9. My Air Force sheet metal background coming out, sorry.. Just a heavy steel surface used on the back side of a solid rivet to form the "mushroom" head of the rivet. Heavy because it helps eliminate bounce.
  10. The head of a second hammer will work well as a bucking bar to pean the other end.
  11. I'll say this as just another woodworker, not an Admin here.. I care so little about CNC that if there was ever a reason to cram one in my shop, it would be bought.
  12. I removed the link for now but, I tend to agree.
  13. I use hardboard as the top layer on my assembly table. I screw it down from the top so that it's easily replaceable when needed. Simply pull the old off and use it as a template for the new. About 15 minutes to replace every few years or so. I usually toss a coat of wipe on poly on it so that the glue pops off easily.
  14. Obviously, there are certain bits that I borrowed from OSHA or some form of a dictionary but, the work is mine. You are certainly correct about the PAPRs but, I didn't go a great deal into depth on them because they are pretty cost prohibitive. They also make one that fits under a welding hood that's commonly referred to as a "yoke" in the industry but, it's not really relevant for the woodworker. Proper fitting PPE is always a struggle because one size does not fit all! Even though the refineries I work in all provide PPE free of cost, I typically purchase my own (except respirato
  15. Thanks bud! I know I've gotten better about using PPE in the shop as I've gotten older.