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Everything posted by ..Kev

  1. Obviously, there are certain bits that I borrowed from OSHA or some form of a dictionary but, the work is mine. You are certainly correct about the PAPRs but, I didn't go a great deal into depth on them because they are pretty cost prohibitive. They also make one that fits under a welding hood that's commonly referred to as a "yoke" in the industry but, it's not really relevant for the woodworker. Proper fitting PPE is always a struggle because one size does not fit all! Even though the refineries I work in all provide PPE free of cost, I typically purchase my own (except respiratory protection) because of this very reason. My ear plugs are custom molded to my ears (Company called DB Blocker), my safety glasses use carbon fiber frames and have the transition shades as well as my prescription, and I even buy my own gloves because I do a lot of climbing and I want gloves that will hold up. I guess the point is that it takes a little time to figure out what works for you. When you find it, stock pile it because often times these companies like to move on to the next great thing that doesn't work for you. As for the respirators in these plants I work in, you typically only see one manufacturer used. Sometimes 2 but, usually just one. From there, they fit test everyone on that equipment in the size they need. Everyone did know that they come in different sizes right? So, if you don't have your fit test card when I'm writing your permit, I'm not going to issue you the permit because you can't do the job safely. I consider myself fortunate to have gone through many fit tests in my 30 year career. I get a little more comfort in the shop knowing that the respirator I put on is the correct size and fit for my face. It's unfortunate these tests aren't more readily available to consumers that buy these masks and assuming that they're working correctly and protecting them.
  2. Thanks bud! I know I've gotten better about using PPE in the shop as I've gotten older.
  3. Since a lot of this is what I do in my day job, I thought I'd toss it out there for you guys. I'm sure most of you guys know this stuff already but, hoping someone gets something from it.. Respiratory Protection – Breaking Down What You Need in the Shop The woodworking hobby is a very dusty hobby that requires respiratory protection. The hobby also has the woodworker in contact with many other chemicals and substances that also requires respiratory protection. Unfortunately, not all respiratory protection is the same and there’s not a lot of information in the community to help the woodworker determine what they need and when. What follows should help provide some of those answers. It’s important that everyone is speaking the same language! I’ll give you some “official” definitions and then try and break it down to what that means for the hobbyist woodworker. HEPA Filter/Cartridge - are designed to reduce inhalation exposure to particulate contaminants. In general industry, these respirators are used to decrease exposure to particulates such as wood dust, animal dander, and pollen. Often referred to as a “P100”, this is the filter you want for normal dusty activities. Organic Vapor Filter/Cartridge - filter that removes gases, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), and other vapors from breathing air through adsorption, absorption, or chemisorption. Usually referred to as an “OV” cartridge, this is the cartridge you want when spraying solvent based finishes or other items with strong odors Piggy Back or Stacked Filter/Cartridges – I could not find a “book” definition for these but, they’re essentially just a stacked filter that protects the user against multiple respiratory hazards. For the hobbyist woodworker, the most common stacked filter would be the HEPA (P100) and the Organic Vapor (OV) cartridge. It should be noted that these filters are a little harder to breathe through because you’re trying to breathe through to filter mediums. Working Life – This question comes up often and will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. It’s also dependent on what you’re filtering, how often you’re using it, and how long. Here’s a couple rules of thumb regardless of the manufacturer. HEPA - When a filter gets clogged with dust and other debris , you will find it is harder to breathe. There is less room for air to move through the filter and into your lungs, and so the breathing resistance increases. This would be a good time to replace the filter. Organic Vapor - As the cartridge portion becomes exhausted, it no longer blocks the smell of solvents and other chemicals. As you notice strong odors that weren’t there before, it’s a sign that it’s time to replace your cartridge. Storage - All of the above listed respirators/cartridges should be stored in a sealed bag when not in use. This will improve cartridge life as well as ensure the mask is not contaminated when needed. Powered Air Purifying Respirator - A type of respirator used to safeguard workers against contaminated air. PAPRs consist of a headgear-and-fan assembly that takes ambient air contaminated with one or more type of pollutant or pathogen, actively removes (filters) a sufficient proportion of these hazards, and then delivers the clean air to the user's face or mouth and nose. They have a higher assigned protection factor than filtering facepiece respirators such as N95 masks. PAPRs are sometimes called positive-pressure masks, blower units, or just blowers. There are numerous manufacturers of these and are often cost prohibitive to the hobbyist woodworker. They are being used more frequently by wood turners as they protect the entire face as well as give better respiratory protection than a ½ mask with appropriate cartridges. Assigned Protection Factor (APF) - means the workplace level of respiratory protection that a respirator or class of respirators is expected to provide to employees when the employer implements a continuing, effective respiratory protection program. This is probably going a bit deeper than we really need to as hobbyist woodworkers but, I think it’s good information to understand. There’s a significant difference between ½ mask respirators, full face respirators, PAPRs, and Fresh Air respirators! The APF is actually increased in the same order that I listed them. The illustration below is borrowed directly from OSHA to show the difference. Fit Testing - A fit test should not be confused with a user seal check. A user seal check is a quick check performed by the wearer each time the respirator is put on. It determines if the respirator is properly seated to the face or needs to be readjusted. There are two types of fit tests: qualitative and quantitative. Qualitative fit testing is a pass/fail test method that uses your sense of taste or smell, or your reaction to an irritant in order to detect leakage into the respirator facepiece. Qualitative fit testing does not measure the actual amount of leakage. Whether the respirator passes or fails the test is based simply on you detecting leakage of the test substance into your facepiece. There are four qualitative fit test methods accepted by OSHA: Isoamyl acetate, which smells like bananas; Saccharin, which leaves a sweet taste in your mouth; Bitrex, which leaves a bitter taste in your mouth; and Irritant smoke, which can cause coughing. Qualitative fit testing is normally used for half-mask respirators - those that just cover your mouth and nose. Half-mask respirators can be filtering facepiece respirators - often called "N95s" - as well as elastomeric respirators. Quantitative fit testing uses a machine to measure the actual amount of leakage into the facepiece and does not rely upon your sense of taste, smell, or irritation in order to detect leakage. The respirators used during this type of fit testing will have a probe attached to the facepiece that will be connected to the machine by a hose. There are three quantitative fit test methods accepted by OSHA: Generated aerosol; Ambient aerosol; and Controlled Negative Pressure. Quantitative fit testing can be used for any type of tight-fitting respirator. That’s a lot to take in considering the hobbyist woodworker is not going to go through this process. I added it simply to show what the OSHA requirement is to wear these masks that we’re all wearing. The seal check should be performed each time you put your respirator on. Simply cover the cartridges and attempt to breathe in. If the mask sucks tight to your face and you can’t inhale, you have a good seal. If air is leaking by, either the mask is too big or small for your face or you may need to remove some facial hair. I’ve heard it said often that “at least I’m doing something to protect myself” from those with facial hair. This is false. Users that wish to maintain their facial hair should upgrade to a PAPR hood style respirator for adequate respiratory protection.
  4. I removed John's phone number.. If someone can help him, please use PM or go through one of the staff if he doesn't have enough posts for the PM function to work. The only one I can think of is @Boatworks Todaybut, I don't think Andy is exactly a close neighbor.
  5. He hasn't been on in nearly 11 years.
  6. Yes, the name lasts forever unless the entire account is removed. If the account is removed, so are their posts.
  7. Not sure where you're at in Idaho but, I'm in Montana - close to Idaho - and paying $50 a sheet for Baltic Birch ply $9.89 per BF for 4/4 FAS Walnut.
  8. ..Kev

    Sapele Wood

    Sapele and African Mahogany are very similar. Both are great to work with!
  9. There's another update available and I sent Marc word last night. Not sure what the timing looks like but, it looks like it will have some of the mobile fixes..
  10. Beautiful tribute Mick! Nice work as always!
  11. Nothing that's been communicated to me..
  12. I've installed 2 factory insulated doors and think they're well worth the extra money!
  13. ..Kev


    A blast from the past I see there!
  14. Mine are on the wall, Chet's are on his door.. I did a video for them..
  15. Both turned out great Chet! Nice job!
  16. It's been a long while since I posted one of my videos out of respect for Marc. However, in this case, I think this video is relevant to the conversation. This is some under TS storage that I did and I show the Kaizan as well as foam insulation as an alternative. The foam stuff starts a little over 1/2 way through the video.
  17. Strong fingertips...lol Pretty straight forward. It has layers to it. So, you cut it to the depth that you want and then pull out the layers.
  18. Probably not.. Reality is that you have pretty much the same options for material as he does. He has to add a markup to cover costs of pick up and transport etc so, costs you more. Plus, if you buy and pick up all that stuff and it's wrong, it's 100% your fault..
  19. Lots of options out there! Corded would not be one that I'd suggest but, to each their own. Green, yellow, red, they're all pretty much the same. Each have a few pros and cons. My only suggestion with cordless is to stick with a brand to cut down on chargers. For what it's worth, I've been hearing a lot of great things about Rigid's warranty and customer service. I don't own any but, if I were in the market, I'd certainly be giving them a serious look. I own the green and the yellow but, am not loyal to a brand.
  20. I went through this a bit in my new shop.. Long story short, do your own pricing! The mark up from my contractor was absolutely ridiculous! I was fortunate that my contractor stayed with the labor cost and allowed me to supply the material. Saved me well over a grand.
  21. My thoughts and prayers with Mick and his family!