Pete Bennett

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About Pete Bennett

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/21/1948

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://boisservant.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    France
  • Woodworking Interests
    designer/maker especially in solid woods. Likes laminating and curves

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930 profile views
  1. I've been using a Fuji for about a year and a half and have only ever used lots of thinners and soft cloths to clean any part of it. I do sometimes remove the nozzle etc. and drop it into a tray of thinners and slosh it around. Apart from making absolutely certain I clean every thing thoroughly every time I use it, even for a few minutes, I've yet to have any contamination or blockage problems. I have yet to use the cleaning things that were actually in the box!!
  2. Looks a real solid but, beautiful piece. I've never used Canary wood either. Tell me as you used domino's for the slats did you use them for the rest of the construction or did you go trad and make mortice and tenons? I ask because I do not, and am unlikely to ever, own a domino machine, so for me it would have been mortice and tenons for the main construction and stub tenons for the slats. Do I see shades of Greene and Greene in the design of those rails, I wonder? Apart from that I am afraid I cannot really see anything to seriously criticise. We all learn by doing, making cock ups and finding ways to overcome them, and hopefully not make the same mistake again. Believe me I made my first serious piece of furniture at the age of 8 years and almost 56 years later I'm still learning, and, unfortunately still making cock ups! However, if I knew everything, I'd most likely be bored and stop. Thankfully that will never happen.
  3. Like the chair man. Just a couple of things really. I'm intrigued by the joints between the front leg and the seat. Also, my only criticism, if at all, I would have liked to see a better grain match on the seat itself. Execution and finish etc. looks really good. Like Oliver Cromwell said 'Every one should have a wart or two' and he should know.
  4. Pete Bennett

    HVLP SPRAYER

    I use AC Lacquers but, I'd definitely go with what Ace says. You can even get some very good practice by simply filling the gun with clean water if you can spray that without runs you'll be half way there.
  5. Fantastic Tim! I loved the piece. I must admit it is good to see some REAL wood turning. In the last few years all I've seen is Artsy Fartsy stuff without any real purpose other than that. I reckon you'll have wood worm queueing up for years just to have their photos taken on a real breakfast. Hell they won't even get greedy and eat it. Leaving it for the next generation to admire. Pete
  6. Back in the seventies Teak over here in the UK was just about the only timber any self respecting maker would use or hope to sell. The modern adhesives you mention did not exist then so I can't say how good they will be. However, before glue up I always wiped the pieces generously with a substance known as Carbon-tetrachloride, which used to carry a label telling me it was a narcotic but, I never intended drinking the stuff, mind you in a confined space without ventilation it had some interesting side effects. The glue I used then was either good old Hide glue or a product known in UK as Cascamite. Cascamite is still available there but, I'm not too sure if it's the same stuff as I seem to remember reading that it was Casien based, but, now it is a Urea-formaldehyde adhesive. You have Unibond 800 in the States I believe. Failing any of these I'd go for a good Epoxy. But, I think you will still have to de-oil it in some way first. Pete
  7. Many years ago when I was desperate for work I made a hundred doors for a construction company all in Hemlock. In working it it very much confirmed it's name. The grain although looking quite pleasing was very interlocked and if you planed every which way you would still get tear out. Pretty soft and easy to cut etc. but in all I hope not to use it again. I expect it would make furniture that would look good under a gleaming coat or two of poly or paint. If the price is right and you have the right project for its properties then buy it.
  8. The standard procedure always used to be little double sided pads that stuck like the proverbial and allowed plenty of movement also a cushioning effect if dropped. No idea if they are still available but standard DIY stores would be a good place to look.
  9. I almost always run a tongue and groove joint when gluing up wide panels. But, if it is a 2" or thicker table top I always use one or, some times more, plywood splines as Beechwood suggest. The joint is then actually known as a feather joint. They are also extremely good at strengthening a mitre joint, though I always make a mitred mortice and tenon joint for these, as they are dead easy with a chop saw.
  10. Yes I have a six inch high x one and a quarter inch cast iron fence that is fortunately rock solid. Irip down the tenons first to almost to the shoulder line then I have a sliding mitre fence to cut the shoulders. By taking my time and being careful It's works a dream. However, I spent a long time perfecting the original set up to be certain my bandsaw cuts absolutely plumb and the mitre fence runs smoothly and accurately. Once they are cut out I use a shoulder plane to gently trim the tenons to fit. As I said more than 90% of the time the shoulders fit first time. I can't say whether this is just pure luck or due to the original tweaking of everything until it worked perfectly. I really could not say how many mortice and tenon joint I've done this way but it is a lot. I must add that I regularly change the blade Which is invariably a 1" 4 skip tooth blade. Incidentally I use the flutter method to adjust the tension. Pete
  11. No, but I am working with my web guy to update my website so I may begin a blog there. However, I hope to be able to post pieces at various stages on to this forum. (I hope Marc doesn't object?) At the moment the other pieces are very much in the design discussion stage but we have a fairly good relationship and most of the budget sorted so it shouldn't be too long before I begin on the bed. we are still pondering the finish for the chair. Pete
  12. I would like to thank every one for their comments and virtually unanimous vote not to paint it. I will need a long discussion with the cient and see if she can be persuaded. Thanks Pete
  13. Hi Vic Hetep Heres was the mother of Cheops (the builder of very large Pyramids) she lived in the forth dynasty around 4,600 years ago. The original chair was discovered in 1925. It is a much less curvy ornamental piece than my interpretation and was gilded. I have yet to add the binding around the stems of the Papyrus plants that infill the arms. The next piece in this series (which is for an Egyptian themed Bedroom) is the bed which will have similar styled bedside cabinets on either side of the head board. However the other pieces are really going to test me. The chest of drawers will be Anubis on his sled which will be gilded. Then two pieces that are really keeping me awake at night. They will be two wardrobes fashioned as the the Viscera Coffin of Tutankhamun one with the gold mask and head of Tutankhamun and one with the head of Nefertiti. It is at least a year long project.
  14. Having decided against gilding the chair I have also decided not to spend the time on several coats of gesso either. So the chair has now had a thorough sanding and several coats of poly flatted off to 1000 grit wet or dry ready for the coats of paint and gold flakes. I must admit it seems almost a pity to paint it. What do you think?