Pete Bennett

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Posts posted by Pete Bennett

  1. I've been using a Fuji for about a year and a half and have only ever used lots of thinners and soft cloths to clean any part of it. I do sometimes remove the nozzle etc. and drop it into a tray of thinners and slosh it around. Apart from making absolutely certain I clean every thing thoroughly every time I use it, even for a few minutes, I've yet to have any contamination or blockage problems. I have yet to use the cleaning things that were actually in the box!!

  2. Looks a real solid but, beautiful piece. I've never used Canary wood either. Tell me as you used domino's for the slats did you use them for the rest of the construction or did you go trad and make mortice and tenons? I ask because I do not, and am unlikely to ever, own a domino machine, so for me it would have been mortice and tenons for the main construction and stub tenons for the slats.

    Do I see shades of Greene and Greene in the design of those rails, I wonder?

    Apart from that I am afraid I cannot really see anything to seriously criticise. We all learn by doing, making cock ups and finding ways to overcome them, and hopefully not make the same mistake again. Believe me I made my first serious piece of furniture at the age of 8 years and almost 56 years later I'm still learning, and, unfortunately still making cock ups! However, if I knew everything, I'd most likely be bored and stop. Thankfully that will never happen.

  3. This is my first attempt at a rocker of any type, man was that a dumb plan or what? Ah well like Mama always says..

    A little back story, if you please.

    This chair is from one of the American Elms on my property. It was close and leaning towards the house else it would still be standing.

    As with most of my wood, I took it down myself and had it milled on sight.

    I left this one lay whole for 15 months before I had it milled, I hoped for more spalt than I got though.

    Once milled, I put it in my kiln for 30 days and then started cobbling a chair, for 3 months.

    Anyway, I made it so my Brother's and my children could rock our grandbabies.

    I finished Dec 18, two weeks after my niece had her first child and she is the first to be rocked in it.

    She is also the first spit up and make a poopy in it... dadgum kids today ain't got no respect.

    My hope is that the chair is used by several generations and just maybe one along the line will take the hint and make something for their grandchildren.

    All stock is American Elm except for the Cherry runners.

    Everything was milled 8/4

    All parts were from single boards, except the seat.

    I used walnut plugs to cover the screws.

    Finish is sanded to 320 grit and topped with 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil, Natural color.

    It is darker than most of the photos show, maybe 3 or 4 shades.

    I would do some things different if I do another, some days just didn't feel productive, you know?

    I would say that 85- 90% of this chair was hand work. Lots and lots of rasps and files, spoke shaves, scorps, ect..

    Ohh, I did read and quote from The Big Book of Cuss Words pretty often so not only did I pick more skills I expanded my vocabulary by....40 or 50%. Huzzah!

    Feel free to pick at all the warts, just try not to bleed me too much Please and Thank You.

    003.jpg

    Mash here for the other pics.

    Like the chair man. Just a couple of things really. I'm intrigued by the joints between the front leg and the seat. Also, my only criticism, if at all, I would have liked to see a better grain match on the seat itself. Execution and finish etc. looks really good.

    Like Oliver Cromwell said 'Every one should have a wart or two' and he should know.

  4. I use AC Lacquers but, I'd definitely go with what Ace says. You can even get some very good practice by simply filling the gun with clean water if you can spray that without runs you'll be half way there.

  5. I "paint" mdf all the time with a mixture one half titebond and one half water. It makes it super-smooth and almost as good as a thermofoil finish. One tip, make sure you don't use the water-proof titebond. That won't work, it won't mix well with the water.

    Great tip thanks

    Pete

  6. Funny story...I was one week early. Better to be early than late!

    Anyway the meeting was last night, and I overwhelmingly won! Nearly everyone thought it was a great whismical idea. I noticed many of them saying that the sunny side up egg was still an egg. I'm glad I did it this way. I got a real kick out of making these. One of the members mentioned to me later that it is a great way to show that woodturning can lighthearted too. We had the president of the International Wood Collectors Association as a guest at our meeting and he wanted a very specific photo taken of it. And, our club president asked if I would be willing to put the breakfast plate out on display in libraries and public places where they have a rotating display case of members work. I said heck yea.

    Tim

    Fantastic Tim! I loved the piece. I must admit it is good to see some REAL wood turning. In the last few years all I've seen is Artsy Fartsy stuff without any real purpose other than that. I reckon you'll have wood worm queueing up for years just to have their photos taken on a real breakfast. Hell they won't even get greedy and eat it. Leaving it for the next generation to admire.

    Pete

  7. Soon I will be starting a stereo cabinet disguised as a credenza to go with my friend's 1950s danish modern desk e-Bay find. He is audiophile with old school vinyl, tube amplifier and turntable.

    Case will be marine grade teak with solid wood for legs, edging and details. Anyone have experience with glues. My wood bible says, "...oily nature can make gluing difficult, so experiment first, but screws and nails are easy to use." I hadn't planned on screws but if glue is suspect I might reinforce the case to leg joint with a couple of screws, covered with plugs (would be inside of case).

    Any insights will be appreciated.

    I did a small outdoor table repair for a client and used epoxy, but the joinery itself did most of the work, so I don't have any idea if the epoxy did good, or if Titebond III (or similar) would have been just as good.

    Back in the seventies Teak over here in the UK was just about the only timber any self respecting maker would use or hope to sell. The modern adhesives you mention did not exist then so I can't say how good they will be. However, before glue up I always wiped the pieces generously with a substance known as Carbon-tetrachloride, which used to carry a label telling me it was a narcotic but, I never intended drinking the stuff, mind you in a confined space without ventilation it had some interesting side effects.

    The glue I used then was either good old Hide glue or a product known in UK as Cascamite. Cascamite is still available there but, I'm not too sure if it's the same stuff as I seem to remember reading that it was Casien based, but, now it is a Urea-formaldehyde adhesive. You have Unibond 800 in the States I believe. Failing any of these I'd go for a good Epoxy. But, I think you will still have to de-oil it in some way first.

    Pete

  8. Many years ago when I was desperate for work I made a hundred doors for a construction company all in Hemlock. In working it it very much confirmed it's name. The grain although looking quite pleasing was very interlocked and if you planed every which way you would still get tear out. Pretty soft and easy to cut etc. but in all I hope not to use it again. I expect it would make furniture that would look good under a gleaming coat or two of poly or paint. If the price is right and you have the right project for its properties then buy it.

  9. The standard procedure always used to be little double sided pads that stuck like the proverbial and allowed plenty of movement also a cushioning effect if dropped. No idea if they are still available but standard DIY stores would be a good place to look.

  10. I almost always run a tongue and groove joint when gluing up wide panels. But, if it is a 2" or thicker table top I always use one or, some times more, plywood splines as Beechwood suggest. The joint is then actually known as a feather joint. They are also extremely good at strengthening a mitre joint, though I always make a mitred mortice and tenon joint for these, as they are dead easy with a chop saw.

  11. Although I set out the mortices and tenons at the same time I always cut the mortices first, then cut the tenons just outside the scribe lines and trim in gentle stages to obtain a good tight light tap with the mallet fit. On very rare occasions I'll maybe have to trim the shoulders as well, and that's it.

    That's what I'm looking to do I guess I just have a hard time doing that. Do you use a fence on the band saw and adjust it slowly to achieve that fit or all by freehand? How do you cut the shoulders to get them nice all the way around?

    Yes I have a six inch high x one and a quarter inch cast iron fence that is fortunately rock solid. Irip down the tenons first to almost to the shoulder line then I have a sliding mitre fence to cut the shoulders. By taking my time and being careful It's works a dream. However, I spent a long time perfecting the original set up to be certain my bandsaw cuts absolutely plumb and the mitre fence runs smoothly and accurately. Once they are cut out I use a shoulder plane to gently trim the tenons to fit. As I said more than 90% of the time the shoulders fit first time. I can't say whether this is just pure luck or due to the original tweaking of everything until it worked perfectly.

    I really could not say how many mortice and tenon joint I've done this way but it is a lot. I must add that I regularly change the blade Which is invariably a 1" 4 skip tooth blade.

    Incidentally I use the flutter method to adjust the tension.

    Pete

  12. Pete,

    Do you have a blog? I'd love to follow those builds. They sound fascinating!

    No, but I am working with my web guy to update my website so I may begin a blog there. However, I hope to be able to post pieces at various stages on to this forum. (I hope Marc doesn't object?) At the moment the other pieces are very much in the design discussion stage but we have a fairly good relationship and most of the budget sorted so it shouldn't be too long before I begin on the bed. we are still pondering the finish for the chair.

    Pete

  13. I guess I could look up hetep-heres :)

    Hi Vic Hetep Heres was the mother of Cheops (the builder of very large Pyramids) she lived in the forth dynasty around 4,600 years ago. The original chair was discovered in 1925. It is a much less curvy ornamental piece than my interpretation and was gilded. I have yet to add the binding around the stems of the Papyrus plants that infill the arms. The next piece in this series (which is for an Egyptian themed Bedroom) is the bed which will have similar styled bedside cabinets on either side of the head board. However the other pieces are really going to test me. The chest of drawers will be Anubis on his sled which will be gilded. Then two pieces that are really keeping me awake at night. They will be two wardrobes fashioned as the the Viscera Coffin of Tutankhamun one with the gold mask and head of Tutankhamun and one with the head of Nefertiti. It is at least a year long project.

  14. Having decided against gilding the chair I have also decided not to spend the time on several coats of gesso either. So the chair has now had a thorough sanding and several coats of poly flatted off to 1000 grit wet or dry ready for the coats of paint and gold flakes. I must admit it seems almost a pity to paint it. What do you think?post-1421-0-87748700-1302631586_thumb.jp

  15. I'm wondering why it is that you are finding it slow and not getting very good results using a hollow chisel mortice machine?

    Until three years ago I didn't own a single machine and cut thousands of mortice and tenon joints by hand over the years. Now I have a forty year old industrial mortice machine and a 600mm x 450mm industrial bandsaw to cut the tenons. I reckon to save at least fifty percent of the time it used to take. Having said that, if I only have one or two mortices to make and they are less than 1/2" x 2" x no more than 2" deep I'll do them by hand, unless the machine is already set up for 1/2"

    Although I set out the mortices and tenons at the same time I always cut the mortices first, then cut the tenons just outside the scribe lines and trim in gentle stages to obtain a good tight light tap with the mallet fit. On very rare occasions I'll maybe have to trim the shoulders as well, and that's it.

  16. Absolutely amazing!! I don't wish to seem insulting but here in Europe there always used to be a saying 'It could only happen in America' I think now we should say It could only happen in Japan'

    Any one know how long the track was? And I wonder what the budget was?

  17. There are some shots that I do routinely that wind up having the same position every time, like the tablesaw and the opening monologue at the workbench. Everything else is done on the fly. As much as I'd like to have set positions, that would just be too restrictive and would likely create more work for me. After 5 years and hundreds of videos worth of practice, I have a decent eye for framing a shot in a way most folks find pleasing and interesting. Well, at least I hope! :)

    Hope gratified Marc

    Pete

  18. What do you think...sweet...took 3 short passes with the file to the spade bit!

    I think they will be fine. But, not being much good at it myself either, I think you should take a look at file sizes and pixels etc. when posting pics. As they look to be too big with too few dpi. I'm sure there will be someone out there who can point us both in the right direction.

    Pete

  19. Thanks Tim, was using a straight cutter on the whole and did try a couple with the tapered but I didnt think to flip it around and try the fit that way. Back the shop I go...

    thanks again

    Matt

    When I bought my plug cutter set a few years ago I had exactly the same problem. What I did was to take a 1/2" spade bit and file the sides until I obtained a good tight fit. I keep this with the cutters so I don't get it mixed up with a genuine 1/2" bit. Interestingly all the others in the set work fine.

    Pete

  20. There was a recent topic posted concerning our copying of old styles or designs so I thought I'd post a shot of a piece I am working on at the moment. It is at the final construction stage prior to finish sanding etc. It was intended to gild the piece but Gold leaf has rocketed so it will be finished in Gold Paste. (Solid Gold flakes suspended in a medium) It will also be upholstered in Black Velvet.

    post-1421-0-70399000-1302199065_thumb.jp It is constructed in Oak and has so far taken 45 Hours all by hand. I apologize for the quality of the pics but I only have a cheapy digital camera.

    I had issues with the short grains strength of the back legs in particular so have reinforced all four legs internally with Brass and so far there is no problem in sitting on it.

    post-1421-0-19933200-1302199045_thumb.jp

  21. Hi!

    I have a question about cutting wood. I'd say that I'm just starting out and learning a lot. It seems like when I'm making something that requires more than one piece of the same length, I have issues cutting it at that length. I might be a 1/8" off or less. In situations like this, do you just clamp all the boards together and sand a little off the ends?

    I'm using a mitre saw to cut my 90's, and a table saw to rip it long ways. My latest project is a bench that you sit on. Here's a pdf with a picture of it…

    http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/main/pdf/wb287-backdoorbench.pdf

    The part that you sit on is where I'm having issues with the board lengths, but I know that my problem isn't with the project, it's just cutting multiple boards the same length.

    So, I was wondering, what tips do you have to do this?

    Thanks!

    If you have as much as an 1/8" in difference you'll be sanding for a hell of a while. If you have router lay the boards up as if you are already forming the top. Clamp a straight edge across the ends at the right distance back from the edge and using a straight cutter trim them all to the same length. By the 'Right Distance' I mean one of two things. If you have a guide bush then you should set the straight edge back by the amount required which will depend on (a) the bush diameter and(B) the cutter diameter. If you don't have a guide bush you will need to fit the cutter and with a rule carefully measure the distance from the cutter to the flat side of your router. Or if you have one with a circular base the edge of that.

    Next time you are cutting a number of boards to the same length it is usually best to cut one end nice and square and then either clamp all the boards together using a Try square at the cut ends to ensure they all line up accurately, measure the top board and very carefully cut them all at once. Being sure to take several light cuts rather than plunging wildly in. A better method, especially if you have a lot of boards to cut is to set up some form of measured stop so you can cut each board individually by placing them carefully up to the stop and cutting them.

    Hope this helps.

    Pete