Pete Bennett

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Everything posted by Pete Bennett

  1. I have checked with my insurers here in France who rightly claim to be the biggest in the world AXA and they admit they have no cases on their records of any extractor explosions or fires in workshops they can attribute to static build up in a PVC duct system. I know from my own system, now temporarily disconnected for a change to a bigger extractor, that I can get a discharge from it to me easily enough, but, I like the odd recharge to my dying batteries.
  2. My step son is senior designer at Jaguar Land Rover so I get a lot of design talk. Like your man a BMW he is always at work, and I mean always. The only way we can get him is to email his desk. For myself I usually get my inspiration from nature and sometimes the most obscure unconnected items. I was told many years ago begin your career by studying every good designer you can find, particularly in your chosen field. Once you feel you've analysed as much as you can what makes their stuff appeal it's time to stop, absorb all you can, then try never to look again. That way you'll become a unique designer just like them. If you waste too much time looking at what every one else's is doing you'll only copy their stuff or produce mediocre examples of similar designs. To be truly original, you have to be original. Occasionally you need to take a peek just to see if fashions are changing, but it is much, much better to be the one dictating the fashion in the first place. Best of luck and I hope your career is as varied and interesting (to me at least) as mine has been.
  3. Thank you once again. However, is there any way I can soften the top of the dome a bit, it's rather pointy? Sorry to be such a pain but I don't really get a lot of time to play and I can see it's definitely a program to play with. All the best Pete
  4. Well now, it just depends on what joints Bobby likes.
  5. A wider rail is a good idea for stability of the router, but, would it not be better to make the long slot in the rails you have the bolts in? If you machined a recessed slot, one just wide enough for the bolt with a second recess beneath just wide enough to accept the flat head. This would sit quite happily on the bench. Once the first face is set it should be easy to slide the bolt and the wider face up to your piece and clamp with the knobs well clear of the router. Just a thought.
  6. Hi Guys it's me again. Can any of you please explain (in very simple English) how I can form a parabolic dome shape. I am designing a cabinet that is actually an Acorn, infact it is two acorns. I am fairly new to Sketchup so have yet to experiment with all the tools and their effects. I'm probably missing something obvious.
  7. I have the Fuji mini mite and it is fantastic, HVLP is so much easier than my old irratic compressor system I used to have. Like all HVLP's it makes some noise but the fuji's are about as quiet as they get, and so controllable.
  8. I am not surprised you were asked do want wet or dry paper. Because that is exactly what it is known as. Wet or dry is usually silicon carbide and is especially manufactured to be used either wet or dry, hence the name. I regularly use it from 500 grit upwards, but never ever on bare wood. I doubt you can get ordinary glass paper that fine anyhow. Maybe some of the Aluminium Oxides, though I've never seen any. I've tried several methods over the years and some of the super hard woods like Apple or Lignum Vitae will come to a soft sheen with 600 grit, but on normal furniture woods you're just wasting your time. For Oak I rarely go above 180 and for maple I stop at 220. From there on in I denib and generally lay off the surface to an all over matt finish between coats until I have as perfect and flat a surface as I can get before final finishing. Depending on the wood, the project and the finish I'm after (matt. satin or high gloss) I'll go as far as 1000 or some times 1200. But most often when I get past 600 I go for rotten stone. I only go beyond this if I'm giving a vitriolic finish to French Polish, and thankfully that is now a very rare request.
  9. Some vid. Crude but effective. I guess doing it against glass is not an easy option. I have to agree with him concerning the 'Swan Neck' chisel. I still use mine quite often when making some of the bigger table mortices. Thanks for showing us. Pete
  10. For over forty years I made all my mortices by hand. A drill followed by mortice chisels and elbow grease. I now have a dedicated mortice machine that weighs around 800lbs. But I make a lot of mortice and tenon joints some quite large. If you're only planning on a few mortices I'd start by doing them by hand. (A) It's much cheaper and (B)it is the only way you will get to grasp the real principles of the joint. Loose tenons certainly have their place and in joints at an angle where short grain issues arise they are superior. I do however question the claim that they are stronger. I can see a case for this if using a relatively thin soft wood frame with say an Oak loose tenon, but otherwise I'm not convinced. I have never tried the domino so cannot comment here but I have tried using biscuits. They are definitely not good enough as a tenon. They have their uses in alignment of planks, although I prefer feather jointing. It's much stronger and easier to do. There are so many 'modern' ways of doing traditional things it can be confusing and equally it can lead to disasters, some not always apparent until later. There was recently a very good debate in an English Magazine concerning our now universal acceptance of super strong adhesives and how we can easily make the mistake of believing a slack joint can be cured by their use. The general prognosis being that a good joint particularly a mortice and tenon should not rely on the strength of the adhesive. Try making a good tight but sliding mortice and tenon and assembling it dry then using either fox tail wedges or a good drawer peg to pull it up tight and you will be amazed how strong this is and furthermore it is quite likely to be that way for hundreds of years. Having said all that I use my mortice machine to make the mortice and my Band saw to cut the tenons. However, I still use hand tools for the fine tuning and fitting. It's really a case of trying what suits you best coupled to how many joints you are likely to make. I know that once you get beyond the one or two a month stage you'll be mechanized in one way or another. Best of luck
  11. There was once talk of Marc doing a podcast in Bright yellow ones perhaps you should check this out?
  12. Bob is absolutely right here. Trying to hand chop a mortice in a curved leg without a really well fitting jig to hold it would be a fools nightmare. Once you've chopped the mortices and finished all the shaping I would fit the tenons in very gentle stages, trimming a little at a time. Once every thing is perfect I' mask the shoulder section on the leg and the tenon on the rails and finish the whole, staining, polishing etc. right up to the very final polish off or what ever you intend, before glue up. That way you'll avoid any possible build up around the joints.
  13. My wife loves me in tights especially if I forget to wear the Cod Piece! Just let me know if we've got the right camera angle
  14. Know exactly what you mean. I use a husband and wife French mill just outside Ruffec in the Charente Dept I wouldn't go anywhere else. For the laughs, at least. I've never seen either of them down, even when they have had very good reason to be. The price is right, and the service above and beyond the call of duty.
  15. WHO the hell ever told you we don't make mistakes??????about 90% of a forum like this is all about each of us helping each of us to overcome the inevitable. If you ain't making mistakes you ain't making anything. And certainly nothing worthwhile.
  16. Makes a lot of sense Paul. Have you been secretly watching me in my shop?
  17. Best of luck with your move. I envy you and all the weather. Hope you can still hook up the WW site. Stay in touch.
  18. I tend to agree with Beechwood here. Two year olds stay two year olds for a hell of a short while, sadly. In the UK back in the sixties there used to be a company that marketed furniture under the name of Grovewood. They made amazing stuff from Birch ply. Admittedly they made a cheap pine of Birch frame to hold most of it together, but the thing is it was cheap knock together, These days it's called 'flat pack' and you could knock the absolute hell out of it almost indefinitely. Unless you are intending to make heirloom furniture for your kids to pass on to theirs etc. I'd get either some popular around 2" x 1" for frames and some 3/8" plywood for the carcasses and use either nails or better screws to hold things together. The only problem with this method is you will need some skills at least and some means of running a 3/8" groove for the ply. You may be better buying some 3/4" ply and simply making a carcass with a truly square back screwed in then making some simple screw together drawers with a screwed in bottom and run them on either wooden 1" x 1" drawer runners with a similar piece over the top as the kicker. Or, if they are available to you similar pieces of Polypropelene or similar plastic. Either way if I were you I'd keep it simple and adaptable for later adventures.
  19. There was a similar post not long back. The easiest way to do this is first to put some double sided adhesive tape around the rear perimeter of your false drawer front peel off the backing and carefully align it to the actual drawer front (which is of course sitting in the cabinet and hopefully flush with the front frame.) Once you have this perfectly aligned push it firmly into place. Drill for the fixings. In this case I would place a screw at each corner, but do not drive them in yet. Next I would clamp a block of scrap across the false front and drill through from the rear at what ever place you intend for the handle, knob or whatever. Once all this is perfect. Peel off the false front, remove the double sided if you wish, but it'll be OK if left. Next pass the bolts through the real drawer front from the rear, place a couple of spacers that coincide with the depth of recess from the false front frame to the rear of the raised panel. Pass the bolts through the false front, re-align the drillings for the fixing screws and screw it in place. Next screw on the handle. All done. If you don't place spacers behind the false front you will distort either the false front panel or the real drawer front, which ever is the more pliable of the two. You'll probably find it's easier to do than it is to explain how. Pete
  20. I have been making tables for more than forty years and I can tell you I definitely construct them correctly. But, 1% movement is about as minimal as you can ever hope for. But on a table that is 1500 mm wide that is 15mm, which is, in real money, almost 5/8" that was my real point concerning the table I talked of. Breadboard ends may look pleasing, but timber has virtually no movement in its length. The 60mm thick by 200mm wide quarter sawn Oak that I used was at 9% EMC which is normally good for here in France. The boards could just as easily expanded 1%. Instead, the client has probably the fiercest Central heating system I know of and they shrank. When I put my meter on the boards after 12 months they showed less than 6%. Which is too low for comfort, as far as I'm concerned.
  21. Standard transformers are available to take 220-240V single phase tools down to 110V In the UK and soon I believe to be implemented in the rest of Europe, it is a legal requirement for any on site work by any trade using power tools to be on 110V single phase. Either by purchasing 110V tools or a pretty hefty transformer. Most commercial transformers here will easily run all available 220-240V power tools. Your greatest problem is going to be the difference between 50 Hz and 60Hz Also if you have any electronic variable speed tools check carefully to see if they will be OK I once had a fantastic variable speed Kress Industrial drill that took off entirely on its own until it ripped the plug from the socket then it died. The rewind company assured me this was caused by two things 1/ I was using a 3KVA generator and 2/ I'd stepped down to 110V using my normal transformer. Also Paul's point concerning shaft sizes needs careful checking in the UK its easy to get bushes but maybe not in South Africa. Good luck
  22. I've been looking for a way to turn some 73" bed posts for a future client's project. Would you mind please,if I adapted this idea. I have to say I've not long had a bandsaw but I would never have thought of using it for turning. Brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing it with us. Pete
  23. At last a friend who understands. Thank you. You would not believe, this guy had been told (by another furniture maker apparently) that the end pieces would stretch and contract with the rest of the table! Trouble is he believed it, until now.
  24. Dunno but it makes a hell of a BIG puddin!
  25. Thank you Master, just knew we could count on you. I'll have a dig amongst the debris and see what I can find