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Llama last won the day on November 11 2018

Llama had the most liked content!

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About Llama

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    Master Poster

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    : CO
  • Woodworking Interests
    I enjoy working with hand tools and power tools. I enjoy the balance between the two. I build furniture as well as solid body guitars and basses.

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  1. Doug, I am so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo. I have the Felder AD941, which is roughly 5-6x the price of the Grizzly ones shown... so it may not be a fair fight. More accurate of a statement is "stay away from cheap combo machines." I'd pass on the Grizzly ones. The Hammer machines are far superior and are much closer in price than you might expect. If you have a deeper pocket look at the Felder.
  2. This is true... He never wanted to make saws, but Ryobi wanted him to be responsible for his technology in their saws. He said "I might as well make the saws myself then" ... And that's what he did. The rest, is history
  3. It is best to have the smile facing down. This provides the best chance for a reference surface. Be sure to get the rock out of the side resting on the bench before trying to do anything. The easiest way to do this is take a few swipes where it's obviously high, flip it over and rub it on the bench, this will burnish the high spots. This means you may have to plane down so it sits reasonably flat. If it's rocking around, you lose efficiency. You want your planing effort to go into removing material, not chasing the wood around. It depends on the task you're working on. You do need a long soled plane to act as a reference surface or you will be chasing the humps. The closer you get to the final surface, the length of your plane should get shorter. The correct sequence is #5 for rough removal, #7 to flatten, then #4 to finish. Some people use a scrub plane to rough out.These take a decent amount of skill and I think should really only be used to reduce the width of a board not it's thickness.
  4. Flatten the bottom (dead flat!) Use that reference with a marking gauge to scribe a line on the sides. I prefer a wheel style gauge for this. If you can't see the line darken with a mechanical pencil. Chamfer the edges to form a peak on the non flat side. I like a block plane for this. Grab your #5 and remove most of the waste. Then the #7, then smoother. I left out the process on how to get the edges true as you stated thicknessing was your issue. *this is an overview, not a book on how to woodwork. I am sure something has been glossed over but this should fill the gaps.
  5. Quoted for effect. I do recall something similar.
  6. I bought it off Thingverse. But as stated you have a perfect retreat in saying a better 3D printer makes better things. I'm sure it does. As I stated, I purchased the knockoff for a laugh. And "works perfectly" is surely subjective as you claim to lack the ability to purchase the actual tool. Couple things here to address. I absolutely do have an issue with the theft of IP. I don't care if the thing is made from plastic or gold. You can't get one in Europe... I know for a fact that you can. If you haven't put the effort in then you have another loophole for your theft. Are any of us? Really... Taking the tone that you have in this thread shows that you are not willing to have your mind changed on any of this. I was referring to the radius jig. And for the record, these have been around long before Woodpecker started making them of shiny red aluminum.
  7. I'll get called out for being a fan boy about BCTW... but I don't care... I bought a 3D printed one to see how good it was and well... it's not great. Aside from the obvious design theft the 3D printed version is simply much bulkier than the original. Perhaps a better 3D printer can make it smaller, but still it doesn't offer the same feel as the original. I think I posted about it here several years ago when they came out with that knockoff. The printed version is comically large. Without going to far into investigating everything you posted I suspect many things fall into that category. The radius things are neat if you need something like that, but they aren't hard to make with scrap MDF. Maybe shop made vs 3D printed is a better analysis on simple parts like this as noted in your diatribe.
  8. I bought one years ago for less than $100. I eventually gave it away.
  9. Llama


    Yep! And the better the visuals, the more money they pay
  10. Llama


    I agree with Chestnut. Looks like a revolve with some combine features would get you there. Another way would be to use construction planes and form the swooping layers on each, then combine with the triangular pieces. You could make the whole thing use parameters so you could very quickly change the shape and feel of the design quite easily. The use of parameters would also allow you to create the base shape then size it to your workpiece. Another way would be a combination of the above methods and using the shell tool for removed material. You can change this on the fly as well. I usually create a parameter for shell to see what different thicknesses will look like. Possibly another way is to use the mesh model feature. I have very little experience with it, but it looks like you could really come up with some cool designs using that method.
  11. Llama


    What do you want it to do that it's not doing?
  12. Llama

    Moving to Colorado

    Forgot about this thread... I'm sure most of you all know, we moved from Ft. Collins to Timnath. Life is good If anyone is in the area, feel free to reach out and stop by! A few people have stopped by which is always a lot of fun.
  13. It's Jimmy Choo You don't want to see my wife shoes and handbags.
  14. That's not a bad price for that table. I'd charge more if someone wanted one
  15. I may post something in another thread.