Llama

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Everything posted by Llama

  1. There is room inside for both Thanks! Appears to be very stock right now. I'll fix that soon... Automatic right now... I'll also be fixing that.
  2. I bought a new (to me) car: 1966 Mustang Fastback!
  3. Depends... You can buff it to a higher sheen once the wax has hardened. I usually don't bother.
  4. HA! I went to the car dealer like this My wife has gone to the bank like that too!
  5. This is looking very nice! Makes my setup seem too utilitarian. Nice cue rack, I need to make one now that I have a table again!
  6. Osmo is one part. I use a plastic spreader then buff it. Uses less finish this way. I use two coats. Monocoat is a misleading name, as Rubio recommend two coats for certain woods.
  7. For the most part no change at all. Working from home which is good, but feels like I'm working more. My studio/listening room is now an office.
  8. I used Osmo for this table. I usually spread the finish on the surface with a plastic applicator. I have the West Systems epoxy ones (the yellow kind). When applying it it is best to get an even coat on all end/edge grain first, then cover the top. If you get a drip on the sides it will be darker than additional coats.
  9. We're all doing well. Got very busy with a bunch of things... Still am really... Just one thing after another!
  10. Bad Axe, you can customize the handle size, wood/spine choices.
  11. Not sure really. Maybe it's a different set of drivers for furniture? Could have just been bad timing when you looked. It is a dynamic thing... If things line up for the driver it's cheaper, the further you schedule ahead the better the pricing.
  12. I've use uShip several times without issue.
  13. Rob Cosman. And he gives Charlesworth full credit for it almost every time he mentions it.
  14. Agreed. Yes, the reason being is you can sharpen faster with one than without one because you are sharpening less of the blade. David Charlesworth goes into great detail in his DVD on sharpening. VERY dry content, so brew some coffee... But you only need to watch it once to get it.
  15. Doug, I am so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo. I have the Felder AD941, which is roughly 5-6x the price of the Grizzly ones shown... so it may not be a fair fight. More accurate of a statement is "stay away from cheap combo machines." I'd pass on the Grizzly ones. The Hammer machines are far superior and are much closer in price than you might expect. If you have a deeper pocket look at the Felder.
  16. You're lucky! Where I am, the breakers need to be GFI in all "livable" areas. Basically, where people will be living which is to say it's vague. And all outlets where kids might be need to be tamper resistant. Also vague. So that tripled the price of components for our basement we just finished. yay codes.
  17. This is true... He never wanted to make saws, but Ryobi wanted him to be responsible for his technology in their saws. He said "I might as well make the saws myself then" ... And that's what he did. The rest, is history
  18. It is best to have the smile facing down. This provides the best chance for a reference surface. Be sure to get the rock out of the side resting on the bench before trying to do anything. The easiest way to do this is take a few swipes where it's obviously high, flip it over and rub it on the bench, this will burnish the high spots. This means you may have to plane down so it sits reasonably flat. If it's rocking around, you lose efficiency. You want your planing effort to go into removing material, not chasing the wood around. It depends on the task you're working on. You do need a long soled plane to act as a reference surface or you will be chasing the humps. The closer you get to the final surface, the length of your plane should get shorter. The correct sequence is #5 for rough removal, #7 to flatten, then #4 to finish. Some people use a scrub plane to rough out.These take a decent amount of skill and I think should really only be used to reduce the width of a board not it's thickness.
  19. Flatten the bottom (dead flat!) Use that reference with a marking gauge to scribe a line on the sides. I prefer a wheel style gauge for this. If you can't see the line darken with a mechanical pencil. Chamfer the edges to form a peak on the non flat side. I like a block plane for this. Grab your #5 and remove most of the waste. Then the #7, then smoother. I left out the process on how to get the edges true as you stated thicknessing was your issue. *this is an overview, not a book on how to woodwork. I am sure something has been glossed over but this should fill the gaps.
  20. Quoted for effect. I do recall something similar.
  21. I bought it off Thingverse. But as stated you have a perfect retreat in saying a better 3D printer makes better things. I'm sure it does. As I stated, I purchased the knockoff for a laugh. And "works perfectly" is surely subjective as you claim to lack the ability to purchase the actual tool. Couple things here to address. I absolutely do have an issue with the theft of IP. I don't care if the thing is made from plastic or gold. You can't get one in Europe... I know for a fact that you can. If you haven't put the effort in then you have another loophole for your theft. Are any of us? Really... Taking the tone that you have in this thread shows that you are not willing to have your mind changed on any of this. I was referring to the radius jig. And for the record, these have been around long before Woodpecker started making them of shiny red aluminum.
  22. I'll get called out for being a fan boy about BCTW... but I don't care... I bought a 3D printed one to see how good it was and well... it's not great. Aside from the obvious design theft the 3D printed version is simply much bulkier than the original. Perhaps a better 3D printer can make it smaller, but still it doesn't offer the same feel as the original. I think I posted about it here several years ago when they came out with that knockoff. The printed version is comically large. Without going to far into investigating everything you posted I suspect many things fall into that category. The radius things are neat if you need something like that, but they aren't hard to make with scrap MDF. Maybe shop made vs 3D printed is a better analysis on simple parts like this as noted in your diatribe.
  23. I think it's beautiful I have an X3 so I may also be biased. M4 is probably my next car.
  24. There is a video of this car It's wonderful.