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Posts posted by Llama

  1. 1 hour ago, Chet said:


    I am asking because I am not totally familiar with the Felder jointer/planer but wouldn't that be a machine that could sit more or less against the wall.  You appear to have it so you can walk around it.


    It has to be I think 10" off the wall or something for the guard to have room to fold out of the way. The current location works very well since it's the longest run in my shop. I've needed to process boards 12' long before and wouldn't have been able to do that if it were against a wall. Would be close... perhaps I could... but not ideal.

    The original layout had the tablesaw where the Mustang is now, but I moved it to the other side of the shop so I could get my wife's car in incase of hail. I plan on selling the TS and using that spot for the Mustang perhaps... or a giant Shaker style workbench. 

  2. On 5/31/2020 at 4:40 PM, treeslayer said:

    I’m guessing that the Mustang costs more, but they both make you smile :D

    Close to 3x... Yes, they both make me smile :) 

    On 5/31/2020 at 4:41 PM, Woodenskye said:

    Mel both have blue paint, a match made in heaven in your garage.


    On 5/31/2020 at 4:57 PM, Mark J said:

    Moght be a good idea to roll up that window.  Just saying:).

    Mustang sits outside while any work is done. It's amazing how I seem to not have any space in my shop despite having close to 900SF. I really need to move things around again... Anyone want to help push the Felder? :) 

  3. 21 minutes ago, Chet said:

    Very cool.  So who gets stuck outside the Mustang or the Felder?

    There is room inside for both :) 

    10 minutes ago, treeslayer said:

    Very nice ride Mel, looks like its had some upgrades, wheels, tires, anything done to the motor? stick or auto?

    Thanks! Appears to be very stock right now. I'll fix that soon... Automatic right now... I'll also be fixing that.

    • Like 1
  4. On 5/21/2020 at 6:11 AM, Mark J said:

    So it doesn't sound like there is much difference between the two products?

    How vigorously does one have to buff?  From videos I've seen, including Marc's it looks like the buffing needs to be aggressive, i.e. by machine driven buffer.   My pieces are small (hand held) and the finishing pretty much needs to be by hand, i.e. rag.


    You can buff it to a higher sheen once the wax has hardened. I usually don't bother.

  5. 22 hours ago, Martin-IT said:

    Rubio is a 2 parts product. Is Osmo the same ?

    I saw videos with rubio, they use a plastic scraper to spread it, then they buff it.

    Much different with Osmo ? 

    Rubio is a single coat product. with Osmo, how many coat do you apply ?

    Osmo is one part.

    I use a plastic spreader then buff it. Uses less finish this way.

    I use two coats. 

    Monocoat is a misleading name, as Rubio recommend two coats for certain woods.

  6. On 11/16/2019 at 5:45 PM, K Cooper said:

    Mel, I checked into uShip a couple of times to get lumber from the Nashville area to Houston and the only folks with reasonable rates were those with flatbed trailers, thus leaving the wood open to rain. I found carriers like AAA Cooper to have the best rates. What’s your secrete? 

    Not sure really. Maybe it's a different set of drivers for furniture?

    Could have just been bad timing when you looked. It is a dynamic thing... If things line up for the driver it's cheaper, the further you schedule ahead the better the pricing.

  7. 3 hours ago, Tom King said:

    I think it was actually David Charlesworth that invented the ruler trick.  


    4 hours ago, Susan Newton Boyett said:

    Should you still put a micro bevel on the bevel side?

    Yes, the reason being is you can sharpen faster with one than without one because you are sharpening less of the blade.

    David Charlesworth goes into great detail in his DVD on sharpening. VERY dry content, so brew some coffee... But you only need to watch it once to get it. :) 

  8. 2 hours ago, Doug Carlson said:

    I wouldn't get either of them. I have yet to hear any woodworker say "I'm so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo". 

    Doug, I am so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo. :)

    I have the Felder AD941, which is roughly 5-6x the price of the Grizzly ones shown... so it may not be a fair fight. 

    More accurate of a statement is "stay away from cheap combo machines."

    I'd pass on the Grizzly ones. The Hammer machines are far superior and are much closer in price than you might expect. If you have a deeper pocket look at the Felder.

    2017-08-18 18.30.15.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. On 9/16/2019 at 8:40 PM, pkinneb said:

    Here it is any outlet within 6'

    You're lucky! Where I am, the breakers need to be GFI in all "livable" areas. Basically, where people will be living which is to say it's vague. And all outlets where kids might be need to be tamper resistant. Also vague. :)

    So that tripled the price of components for our basement we just finished. :) yay codes.

    • Like 1
  10. On 9/13/2019 at 10:32 AM, GingaNinja said:

    When you say flatten the bottom, how do you determine which side will be the bottom? I usually address the cupped side by going across the grain, but if there's a better way to do it, I am all ears. 

    It is best to have the smile facing down. This provides the best chance for a reference surface. Be sure to get the rock out of the side resting on the bench before trying to do anything. The easiest way to do this is take a few swipes where it's obviously high, flip it over and rub it on the bench, this will burnish the high spots. This means you may have to plane down so it sits reasonably flat. If it's rocking around, you lose efficiency. You want your planing effort to go into removing material, not chasing the wood around.

    On 9/13/2019 at 1:22 PM, Tom King said:

    It doesn't really matter which plane you use, other than for efficiency.  The job could be done with any plane.

    It depends on the task you're working on. You do need a long soled plane to act as a reference surface or you will be chasing the humps. The closer you get to the final surface, the length of your plane should get shorter. The correct sequence is #5 for rough removal, #7 to flatten, then #4 to finish. Some people use a scrub plane to rough out.These take a decent amount of skill and I think should really only be used to reduce the width of a board not it's thickness.

    1. Flatten the bottom (dead flat!)
    2. Use that reference with a marking gauge to scribe a line on the sides.
      1. I prefer a wheel style gauge for this. If you can't see the line darken with a mechanical pencil.
    3. Chamfer the edges to form a peak on the non flat side.
      1. I like a block plane for this.
    4. Grab your #5 and remove most of the waste.
    5. Then the #7, then smoother.

    I left out the process on how to get the edges true as you stated thicknessing was your issue.

    *this is an overview, not a book on how to woodwork. I am sure something has been glossed over but this should fill the gaps.

    • Like 2
  11. 1 hour ago, Jean [Fr] said:

    Imagine someone saying I bought a drill to see how good it was and well... It's not great. :huh: It would be interesting to know which 3D printer you're talking about, and the year too. How many prints did you do in total with it ?

    I bought it off Thingverse. But as stated you have a perfect retreat in saying a better 3D printer makes better things. I'm sure it does. As I stated, I purchased the knockoff for a laugh. And "works perfectly" is surely subjective as you claim to lack the ability to purchase the actual tool.

    1 hour ago, Jean [Fr] said:

    I would say the same to Chestnut about design theft, is this a fair argument ? Many people do tools copy out of wood, and nobody is yelling for thievery. There's several designs for the same purpose. You should be aware you can't get a genuine Kerfmaker in Europe. On the other hand, the printed version is a fraction of the price and works perfectly, so...

    Couple things here to address.

    I absolutely do have an issue with the theft of IP. I don't care if the thing is made from plastic or gold.

    You can't get one in Europe... I know for a fact that you can. If you haven't put the effort in then you have another loophole for your theft.

    1 hour ago, Jean [Fr] said:

    Come on, this is pure supposition. I suspect... you're not totally objective ;)

    Are any of us? :) Really... Taking the tone that you have in this thread shows that you are not willing to have your mind changed on any of this. 

    1 hour ago, Jean [Fr] said:

    You say the cam clamps are easy to make from MDF. Are you talking about any design theft ? ;)

    I was referring to the radius jig. And for the record, these have been around long before Woodpecker started making them of shiny red aluminum. 


    • Like 1