chrisphr

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Posts posted by chrisphr


  1. Alrighty, was able to get some quality woodworking time to finally hammer this out. Down to making doors and drawers. Starting with the router access door.

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    Used the new router table for the first time to rabbit the inside of the door frame.

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    But no dust collection... yet.

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    Ok fit. Used standard butt hinges from Lowes and plexiglass for the panel. Really not sure how to estimate how many/big the the necessary air flow holes needed to be, just ran with 3 at 1".

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    Installed a stop and used magnets as the latch.c971710ef0b655064211e3462e30f035.jpg

    Used mdf for the bit drawers cause that is what I had.

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    To make the drawers quick and easy I squared them up, tacked them together with some brad nails then plowed a domino in from the outside. Flush trim the dominos and I've got four drawers done in about an hour. Ain't pretty by good enough for shop furniture...

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    Installed the drawer slides, now it is time for drawer fronts. Went with red laminate. Added a small chamfer (about the thickness of the laminate) to the fronts and a roughly 1/8th inch chamfer to the back. This second use of the new router table was with the dust collection connected. It worked like a dream.03ebe5993e53e3bed06d8340c9221f44.jpg

     

    Attached the drawer fronts and calling this project complete!

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    ...and the sexy open drawer pic:

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  2. Looking great!  

    Those heavy duty old work electrical boxes are my favorite.  

     

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    Edited to add:  I just ordered these.  I don't know if you have to manually tighten the locknut after the height is adjusted, but if requires that, I'll just TIG weld a spot on the side of a nylock nut to replace whatever their loose nut is, so I don't have to do that.

    https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Leveler-Wide-Foot/dp/B0037MK8XC/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5FZKVJNYG95B41SZG4GB

     

    Cool system with the old work boxes, never seen it done that way. I don't recall the need to tighten down a locknut, I just adjusted to height. I'll let you know if the move on me, but I suspect they'll stick where they are at.

     

     

     

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    Coming along great.  My router table has been an extension of my tablesaw work surface since the first version that was just a wing.  I have become very used to having that extra surface for both machines.  My table is to the left of the saw blade and the router table's miter slot is the same distance from the bit as the saw's miter slot is from the blade.  This makes using the same jig on both machines pretty straight forward. 

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    I use threaded inserts in the mating edge of the router table top and tablesaw wing to bolt the machines together and align the surfaces. Your table is looking good.  It is always fun to finally build "version 2" incorporating all the things you learned from "version 1".

    Always love seeing pictures from your shop! I had ruled out putting the extension on the left because of the motor shroud, but I see you just extended from the extension... a creative solution that didn't occur to me. Oh well, there is always version 3!

     

     

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    Really looking nice. Debating whether to do this for my space or just build a separate unit. I like the storage that you have in there also!

    Since it has four legs with the levels, it could be used independently of the table saw. In fact, I thought if I ever get a bigger shop, I'd separate the router cabinet with maybe the only modification of remaking the top bigger.

     

     

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  3. Been an intense few weeks at work, but did manage some time in the shop. The top is held in place by gravity with the help of some guide blocks that I champhered the edges to help locate the top easier. Installed these with some glue and brad nails with the cabinet upside down.

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    Trimmed out the plywood edges with cherry scrap and prepared some new laminate MDF, this time in red, for the drawer fronts and on/off switch trim. Used an extra deep old work plastic box which worked but had to modify slightly so the faceplate would install flush.

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    The kreg levelers didn't match up to the fastening holes on the bench dog router plate so jimmy rigged some more mdf to solve the problem, worked remarkably well.

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    Added some finish to the cherry trim and inside of the cabinet. Used the levelers to position the top flush with the table saw and fastened in place with the help of a Vix bit to keep the fastener centered and the top flush. Set the router lift in place to check the fit... like a glove.

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  4. Nice. Will the table still be located in the extension wing? One of my next shop projects will be to build a table & cabinet that will take the place of the old extension wing

    Yes, that is the intended design. Right now I am thinking the top will fasten between table saw rails and the cabinet will be fitted to the top from below, micro adjusted using the cabinet levelers, but not actually attached to the top. We'll see how it goes.

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  5. Anyone else recall anything along this line.  Recall that Sears has never made anything but their products were contracted out.  One item might hae been made by several companies.  I had a customer that made Craftsman power tools back in the early 70s.

    Craftsman is (now was) a private label so it is hard to say who makes it in a general sense. Whoever manufacturers a particular tool last year may not be manufacturing this year. One of the reasons retailers like private label is for sourcing flexibility. It's possible the euro's are still manufacturing, but typically European manufacturing is considered expensive for many things in the world market. I would put money on Taiwan for hand tools, it is possible to get good quality from there if it is spec'd to be that way and the factory is reliable (tons of audits by the retailer). Although you can also get crap from there too.

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  6. Ok, this is embarrassing. There was probably 3 cubic feet of baby powder fine saw dust jammed into that filter, how this didn't occur to me as the obvious problem I don't know.

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    Once again, reminded of my own noobiness.

    Do these filters require vacuuming every so often or will spinning the dust release lever once in a while be adequate to keep the filter clear?

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  7. Eliminate all those tight 90s and find street sweep 90s or double 45s instead. 

    Good call.

    Step 1 clean that filter.

    Step 2, I think I am going to add the super dust deputy Jfitz suggested. To do that I think the best way will be to mount the motor to the wall which will do two things for me: 1. Create the space to fit a steel trash can to collect dust from the cyclone and 2. Eliminate two 90s and about 7' of pipe. I'll go ahead and address the other 90s at the same time.

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  8. I've got a Jet 1200 CFM collector that I have Jimmy-rigged to PVC pipe to create my garage shop dust collection system. Worked pretty well right after I installed. Recently hasn't been working great at all. There was some build up in the pipes parallel to ground which after clearing just jammed back up again.

    The poor performance of the system was really clear yesterday when I attached the dewalt planer and the air being pushed through the system blew sawdust through all the nooks and crannies around the blast gaits suggesting the the dewalt was pushing more CFM that the jet was pulling.

    In the picture below are there any obvious problems? What steps should I take to troubleshoot? Should I get a CFM meter (looks like Amazon has for about $30) to figure it out? Any help is appreciated, I was going to work on some shop upgrades over the next couple months in part to improve the shop air quality.

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