chrisphr
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Posts posted by chrisphr
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Alrighty, was able to get some quality woodworking time to finally hammer this out. Down to making doors and drawers. Starting with the router access door.
Used the new router table for the first time to rabbit the inside of the door frame.
But no dust collection... yet.
Ok fit. Used standard butt hinges from Lowes and plexiglass for the panel. Really not sure how to estimate how many/big the the necessary air flow holes needed to be, just ran with 3 at 1".
Installed a stop and used magnets as the latch.
Used mdf for the bit drawers cause that is what I had.
To make the drawers quick and easy I squared them up, tacked them together with some brad nails then plowed a domino in from the outside. Flush trim the dominos and I've got four drawers done in about an hour. Ain't pretty by good enough for shop furniture...
Installed the drawer slides, now it is time for drawer fronts. Went with red laminate. Added a small chamfer (about the thickness of the laminate) to the fronts and a roughly 1/8th inch chamfer to the back. This second use of the new router table was with the dust collection connected. It worked like a dream.
Attached the drawer fronts and calling this project complete!
...and the sexy open drawer pic:
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Looking great!Those heavy duty old work electrical boxes are my favorite.
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Edited to add: I just ordered these. I don't know if you have to manually tighten the locknut after the height is adjusted, but if requires that, I'll just TIG weld a spot on the side of a nylock nut to replace whatever their loose nut is, so I don't have to do that.
Cool system with the old work boxes, never seen it done that way. I don't recall the need to tighten down a locknut, I just adjusted to height. I'll let you know if the move on me, but I suspect they'll stick where they are at.
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Coming along great. My router table has been an extension of my tablesaw work surface since the first version that was just a wing. I have become very used to having that extra surface for both machines. My table is to the left of the saw blade and the router table's miter slot is the same distance from the bit as the saw's miter slot is from the blade. This makes using the same jig on both machines pretty straight forward..jpg.0485c41f8e732718a7b3faa9311e564d.jpg)
I use threaded inserts in the mating edge of the router table top and tablesaw wing to bolt the machines together and align the surfaces. Your table is looking good. It is always fun to finally build "version 2" incorporating all the things you learned from "version 1".
Always love seeing pictures from your shop! I had ruled out putting the extension on the left because of the motor shroud, but I see you just extended from the extension... a creative solution that didn't occur to me. Oh well, there is always version 3!
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Really looking nice. Debating whether to do this for my space or just build a separate unit. I like the storage that you have in there also!Since it has four legs with the levels, it could be used independently of the table saw. In fact, I thought if I ever get a bigger shop, I'd separate the router cabinet with maybe the only modification of remaking the top bigger.
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Nice FX!
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Been an intense few weeks at work, but did manage some time in the shop. The top is held in place by gravity with the help of some guide blocks that I champhered the edges to help locate the top easier. Installed these with some glue and brad nails with the cabinet upside down.
Trimmed out the plywood edges with cherry scrap and prepared some new laminate MDF, this time in red, for the drawer fronts and on/off switch trim. Used an extra deep old work plastic box which worked but had to modify slightly so the faceplate would install flush.
The kreg levelers didn't match up to the fastening holes on the bench dog router plate so jimmy rigged some more mdf to solve the problem, worked remarkably well.
Added some finish to the cherry trim and inside of the cabinet. Used the levelers to position the top flush with the table saw and fastened in place with the help of a Vix bit to keep the fastener centered and the top flush. Set the router lift in place to check the fit... like a glove.
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Nice. Will the table still be located in the extension wing? One of my next shop projects will be to build a table & cabinet that will take the place of the old extension wingYes, that is the intended design. Right now I am thinking the top will fasten between table saw rails and the cabinet will be fitted to the top from below, micro adjusted using the cabinet levelers, but not actually attached to the top. We'll see how it goes.
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When I received my new table saw a bit over a year ago, I just made some quick and dirty modifications to the extension wing to create a serviceable router table. Decided it was time to make some improvements to the top and add some storage and dust collection. This is what I am replacing:
I'm probably about 75% through this project here's what I've got going so far:
Plywood parts all ready to go for the carcass, most of the joinery is dominos.
Glue up:
Decided to laminate the sides to a color close to JET off white. This was the first time I've worked with laminate, so that was kind of fun. Although I forgot to include the width of the laminate in my carcass construction so I had to stop it short of the top otherwise the cabinet would no longer fit between the table saw rails.
Figured good time as any to attach the levelers. Had the foresight to add access holes for adjustments before assembling the cabinet.
Glued in some guides to help funnel dust to the air collection duct.
Now some work on the top. A sandwich of 3/4 MDF trimmed with cherry, laminate as the top.
Marked out the router plate miter slot and t track. In this picture I set up the template to rout out with a pattern bit.
After routing as far as it would go, cut out the waste with a jig saw and finished routing the opening from the other side with a flush trim bit. Will be using Kreg levelers so the router plate hole is flush all the way through.
Routed for the t track and miter slot, added a slight champher to the outer edge, rounded the corners and the top is nearly complete.
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Following this thread for the video, great looking bowls! Makes me want to learn how to turn.
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Anyone else recall anything along this line. Recall that Sears has never made anything but their products were contracted out. One item might hae been made by several companies. I had a customer that made Craftsman power tools back in the early 70s.Craftsman is (now was) a private label so it is hard to say who makes it in a general sense. Whoever manufacturers a particular tool last year may not be manufacturing this year. One of the reasons retailers like private label is for sourcing flexibility. It's possible the euro's are still manufacturing, but typically European manufacturing is considered expensive for many things in the world market. I would put money on Taiwan for hand tools, it is possible to get good quality from there if it is spec'd to be that way and the factory is reliable (tons of audits by the retailer). Although you can also get crap from there too.
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My first was probably a 3 too but to me, she looked like a solid 5....Well played. [emoji3]
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Ditto on experience with the 5. You won't be disappointed with the 3 either, but glad I chose the 5 as my first.
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Welcome to the forum! Pretty unique stuff, great work!
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That almost falls in the category of mass produced instead of custom woodworking.China has nothing on me. [emoji3]
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Anyone let down by the candy inside is undeserving of such a nice gift! Well done.You are right about that!
Kids are each getting one (it was obligatory), so there will be at least three that will be happier with the candy than the box. I'll post a pic when they destroy their box, expect it prior to the new year.
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I milled up some scrap lumber to just shy of 3/8" to edge my shop plywood counter tops but as the holidays approached, decided to repurpose to make gift boxes. 27 of them.
Milled boards with slot for bottom panel. You can see some prototypes I made in the background...
Miter cut with all pieces in continuous grain match order.
Glue up, used plywood for the bottom mostly to keep this project moving quickly. Packing tape and rubber bands as clamps.
Batched them through the spline jig, trying out a couple decorative configurations for the splines (why the heck not?).
Time to find some scrap for the tops.
Couple lessons here, use a feather board when sending these lids through the router table and sever the grain with a marking gauge to avoid tear out. Two things that I should have known better before chunking up this one lid...
Lids in all their glory. 12degree taper along the lid edges.
Finished with Danish oil and moved on from learning woodworking skills to an unanticipated lesson in scrap booking skills. There is hard candy inside the box, it will be a pretty awesome let down if the receiver doesn't appreciate the packaging. [emoji6]
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Kaplah!
Also, to add to my earlier post about how having a place ]
Nice shop, congrats!
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What are the thoughts as far as using small rare earth magnets with the polarity reversed?
That is a really clever solution!
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Shop air conditioning / heating. Crosscut sled. Wixey digital angle finder. Quality ROS with great dust collection. Domino, but in some ways this might be slowing my learning by reducing mortise and tenon practice...
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glad it looks like an easy fix!!I really like my SDD so I hope you look into getting one installed.
You've sold me on the SDD, that is going to happen [emoji3]! As soon as I finish these Christmas gifts going to a bunch of shop upgrade projects, this will be one of them.
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Ok, this is embarrassing. There was probably 3 cubic feet of baby powder fine saw dust jammed into that filter, how this didn't occur to me as the obvious problem I don't know.
Once again, reminded of my own noobiness.
Do these filters require vacuuming every so often or will spinning the dust release lever once in a while be adequate to keep the filter clear?
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You need a bottle of this to display on your tables [emoji4]
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Eliminate all those tight 90s and find street sweep 90s or double 45s instead.Good call.
Step 1 clean that filter.
Step 2, I think I am going to add the super dust deputy Jfitz suggested. To do that I think the best way will be to mount the motor to the wall which will do two things for me: 1. Create the space to fit a steel trash can to collect dust from the cyclone and 2. Eliminate two 90s and about 7' of pipe. I'll go ahead and address the other 90s at the same time.
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Thank guys, two very consistent thoughts. Yes, the dust collector bag when inflated is hard a a rock. The filter is most likely culprit! Separately, I might look at what options are out there that might fit in the space to turn it into a two stage unit with cyclone.
Thanks!
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I've got a Jet 1200 CFM collector that I have Jimmy-rigged to PVC pipe to create my garage shop dust collection system. Worked pretty well right after I installed. Recently hasn't been working great at all. There was some build up in the pipes parallel to ground which after clearing just jammed back up again.
The poor performance of the system was really clear yesterday when I attached the dewalt planer and the air being pushed through the system blew sawdust through all the nooks and crannies around the blast gaits suggesting the the dewalt was pushing more CFM that the jet was pulling.
In the picture below are there any obvious problems? What steps should I take to troubleshoot? Should I get a CFM meter (looks like Amazon has for about $30) to figure it out? Any help is appreciated, I was going to work on some shop upgrades over the next couple months in part to improve the shop air quality.
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Bummer, I was planning on buying a few clamps at 50% off, but at 15 or 20%, I'll just wait to buy them when I need them...
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Finally got around to making the matching end tables... Has it really been two years?!?!?
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Routing handles in a cutting board
in General Woodworking Talk
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Looks safe to me. References off the fence moves across bit in right direction. Maybe he could have pivoted the board onto the bit instead of just lowering it, but wouldn't say just lowering it is a safety hazard.
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