chrisphr

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Everything posted by chrisphr

  1. I thought it was pretty slick the way Marc smoothed out the seems of the g&g chest glue edge panels with a cabinet scraper so I bought a used one on eBay for $28. Since it is "vintage", no instructions and I can't figure out how to set it up to work. Are there any good reference materials out there to learn how to tune and set up this tool? Thanks in advance!
  2. Check out this hitachi compressor, 55 reviews with nearly 5 star rating. On sale with a couple brad nailers. http://www.lowes.com/pd_331410-67702-KNT65APR_4294795218__?productId=3260195&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1
  3. From multiple and pretty credible sources I have heard never to buy anything with a motor in it from HF.
  4. chrisphr

    shop pics etc

    if your shop is heated, they might consider that an interior wall. Recommend filling insulation or other sound proofing material to keep the noise in the shop.
  5. Notwithstanding advice already givin, I noticed you used future tense "will be". Is there a chance of measuring anchor points to avoid hitting the heating coils? Other than glue like liquid nails which is good but permanent, here are some options: -anchor bolts/j-bolts: you set these before you pour the cement, very strong but slightly challenging to insatall. These are for permanent installation, you will have to cut them flush if one day you decide you don't need them. -wedge or shields- wedge anchors are stronger, but if the slab is shallow, wedges will not work (the mechanics of the bolt are on the tip of the bolt), but shields will. Both are permenant installation. -large diameter tapcon- strength of a wedge, but installs like a lag screw, depth of your slab not important. If you change your mind on the install, easily removed only leaving a hole behind. -lead lag shield- don't go there unless you are about 105 years old and like things done the hard and ineffective way. -tapcon screws- small hole, moderately strong, easy to install -toggler alligator anchor-looks like a plastic conical anchor, but it ain't. While driving the screw the heat molecularly bonds the anchor to the concrete, creating redidulously strong anchor in a small package. Screw is easily removed, but good luck getting the rest of the anchor out of the hole. -Zamac nail in anchors (like hammerset)- light duty, easy to install, moderately difficult to uninstall. -masonry adhesive-super strong, but permenant and requires $50+ tools to install Among all these options, the best for this purpose (if you choose to anchor) are: 1. Large diameter tapcons (heavy duty-like lifting a hummer) 2. Tapcon screws (medium duty) 3. Toggler alligator anchors (medium duty)
  6. What do you think the best position is in the shop? Centrally located or where the most dust is created? Do you think pointing the air flow towards the ceiling (if you have high ceilings) might improve its effectiveness since the suction area will be parallel with the dust creation below it? Think I am going to build one of these in next couple weeks. Maybe something similar to BC's design.
  7. Act like a Pro? No problem. Just walk in looking the part and act like you own the place. Been doing that to great success my entire career... :-) Seriously, thanks for the tip, been looking for specialty woodworking retailers in NC
  8. Thankfully not pointing up (the lighting is creating an illusion), if it were, I would have to retire from this hobby due to embarrassment. :-)
  9. Sure, the old "remove the obstruction" solution! So simple, I am now embarrassed :-). Reminds me of third grade math, greater than or less than (which way does the alligator's mouth point?). Seriously, I think that will fix the problem. That said, the earlier two posts got me researching dust collectors and now I am starting to get tool envy again... Thanks for your help, I am going to try that next weekend.
  10. Sorry about the photo quality, all the tools have been packed away for the evening so the car can get parked. You can still see the dust port from this angle. Let me know what you see.
  11. Thanks for the posts, this is helpful. Sounds like (1) dust collector is better than no dust collector. (2) I have the right idea with the pressure, but there is a little "feel" to learn to get it down perfect. (3) The milling marks (thanks for giving me the right vocabulary for this) are common, but can be mitigated by slowing down and/or adjusting the knives. Good thought on having someone show me, I'll keep an eye out for someone local. Maybe a dust collector will make for a nice bday gift, have to work on the wife for that! :-)
  12. I bought it used, Jet jointer. Spent about 2 hours replacing and adjusting the knives a few weekends back. Finally ready to use it on a "experience building" project, some wall hanging cabinets for the garage. Since this is a practice project, using cheap wood "white wood" from hardware store, don't know species, probably some type of pine. So after giving it a go today, have three questions I was hoping the experts on this site might be able to educate me on. 1. I know jointers and planers create a lot of saw dust but the dust tends to be pretty corse. So, didn't bother hooking up the shop vac, planned to just sweep up the mess when done. Problem is, instead of blowing the waiste onto the floor, it just stayed in the machine, packing in until I had to stop my work (after about two boards) and clean it out. Is the only way to get the dust to vacate the machine with a commercial dust collector? 2. I don't have a good feel for how much pressure to put on the wood as I slide it through the machine, right now using very light pressure, just enough to hold on and push it through. That sound about right? 3. Finished jointed boards have a very slight wave pattern parallel to the cutter knives (perpendicular to the direction of feed). Will easily sand smooth with a couple passes of random orbital sander. While easily fixed, are these waves common from a jointer? Or are they a sign that something is wrong with the tool or tecnique, or is it just a peculiarity of soft wood (in this case, presumably pine). New to milling wood, so any thoughts on this will be great. Also, next week will be sending the same boards through a dewalt 13" planer I've never used before, if there are any tips you think might help me out before I start that I would appreciate that as well! Thanks in advance!
  13. Dude, apparently I am totally out of the loop. Notwithstanding the possible propensity for four letter words, what is this secret trade in which one may procure bowling alley leavings? Do you know a guy who knows a guy? Seems like good material sans nails...
  14. Ha! I'm probably going with the standard version, I'm so green the most value you are going to get from me in a review is going to boil down to "it looks cool". To your point earlier, if the most I get out of this new hobby is a few crooked pieces of furniture than at least I could sell the plane on eBay. To JHop's point, while I've never owned a block plane I do have a cheap hardware store plane that I've used in the past to hang doors (that I've never attempted to sharpen), maybe I can get a sense for quality comparing to that. You hand tool guys are pretty cool. Thanks again for all your help!
  15. The veritas block plane ya all love, is that the fancy NX/DX model that looks like something out of a sci-fi movie or the more traditional standard model they have. Standard about $150, fancy $200-$300...
  16. Thanks for all the great replies. Sounds like cheap tools will require a bit of fiddling to get to work acceptably (if they ever work acceptably), while more expensive tools require less tuning time. I think you've convinced me to avoid the cheap stuff, but still debating going for veritas new or Stanley old. On eBay what should I be looking for in a Stanley, any model 9 1/2? Or any specific sub branding (sweetheart, etc.)? Anything else I should be looking for, or ask the seller? If I can pick one up for $30 that is low enough to maybe take the risk of going used. If it doesn't work, at least it wasn't a ton of money. Also, anyone have a link to how I would go about tuning a used plane? If I go with the veritas, is the pm-v11 blade the way to go? Only $10 more at $149 (when in that price range why not go for gold?). Thanks again!
  17. So total novice here so please excuse my ignorance. About two months ago bought a bunch of power tools at a great deal on Craig's list, powermatic contractor saw, bunch of routers and table, mortiser, drill press, planer, jointer, bench combo sander, biscuit jointer, wet sharpener, bunch of clamps, and a ton of accessories. Up till now, spent most of my time organizing and building storage just so I could fit all that stuff in the garage and still park my car. I'm getting to the point that I want do some actual woodworking. From all the instructional materials I've been looking at, I'm going to need some additional hand tools as well. While I am just a hobbyist (more like a wannabe hobbyist) I want all my woodworking screw ups to be my fault, not due to the tools I am using. Since I am using hand tools to supplement power tool woodworking is there a different quality standard I can get away with? Searches on other forums suggest $50 block planes are garbage and I'd be a fool to consider anything less than a top of the line plane (expensive) or restore a pre ww2 plane (not going there). Stanley acceptable quality? Groz from rockler? Or are these tools unusable for fine woodworking as some suggest? Thanks in advance for your advice!
  18. chrisphr

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