chrisphr

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Everything posted by chrisphr

  1. Update: I remade the handles. It turned out that hammering the hole punch after the curve was made was a non-issue. I also pre-severed the wood fibers as Terry suggested because on my test piece I was still getting a little bit of tear out, I guess that is the nature of a dull hole punch... You can see new and old in the picture. Got the Router set up to cut the cove. Marc kinda scared me with the "I'm not comfortable teaching this technique" remarks, but I found it went really smoothly and without some of the router chatter I think I heard in video by taking EXTREMELY small bites. I got
  2. It is the one Mel points out. It could very well be dull, since these are the last mortises in the project. The tear out is below the surface, so wouldn't have been a problem had I not later removed material to add the curve. Note to anyone considering this project: Make the handle blanks early in the project while your punch is still sharp. These are great ideas, really appreciate it. I think this will be the plan of attack in this order: Save the parts: 1. Try some layouts elongating the mortises. If it looks good and is proportional, save the parts. Remake the parts: 2. Try the hol
  3. Thanks Terry, I'm using Cherry for this project. Remaking the part makes sense, but part of the reason I was leaning to a repair is I'm not sure what I did wrong the first time. I'm afraid if I remake the part, I'll get the same result. Do you think the scoring will work? The challenge is since the shaping happens after the mortise punching, the shaping exposes the damaged fibers hidden beneath the surface. Another idea I had was to crack out the hollow chisel mortiser chuck it with 3/8 bit and put the mortise in after the shaping. Or I could try to use the punch after shaping, although i
  4. Thanks for the comments everyone! So the current challenge is the handles. When I put the plug mortises in the blank, they were near perfect, nice crisp edges. After shaping the piece using a stationary sander, it exposed imperfections in the mortise below the surface (I'm assuming the sanding isn't the cause). You can see what I mean in the picture. Is this a sign the mortise punch is dull? Bad technique? What do you think is the best way to fix? I was considering chiseling it straight again, then gluing a small piece of wood in there, then pairing that back till I get to my 3/8 hol
  5. Base and case merge, it is a beautiful thing! Add the top, free of any sapwood (thanks everyone for talking me out of that error of judgement). My wife is giving me crap about being on the computer so I'll post my question later. ?
  6. Making plug mortises. Created a hairline crack in one of the panels, fixed it with epoxy and some great guidance from Carus and Trip. Cut the dado for the bottom panel, rounded over all the corners, fit it all together. Had to use a hardware store file to do a lot of the rounding, need to add a rasp to my tool kit soon. :-) Got the mitered base together. This would have been tricky without the domino... Getting the round overs on the base, next is the glue up.
  7. So I wasn't planning on doing a journal for this project, and it is also kind of weird to post one now since I am in the home stretch but I have another question I'd like to get the forum's feedback on and rather than create a third thread on the same project in general woodworking I'll put it in a journal so I stop littering the forum. While this project appears to be one of the simpler guild builds (and it may be), it was plenty challenging for my skill set. Gained some good experience from this project. It is riddled with imperfections and errors, but I think they've been hidden well enou
  8. Sorry for your loss. Wonderful animals and family members.
  9. If I didn't have one already I'd probably chase this down. I will say the price has me suspicious that it is "hot." But for now I'll give the benefit of the doubt. Seems like a great deal for someone in NC. Comes with domino assortment set. FESTOOL DOMINO DF500-Q-SET $550 http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/5309694183.html
  10. Bob, I m totally cool with making this thread about your freakishly long toes. That said, sorry about them toesies gettin mushed. Put some ice on it so you can survive to show off them strechies at a 2016 bbq.
  11. Oh no! So frustrating. I vote for a doing the part over.
  12. I like the space saving by having the router table inline. However, I wonder if you might run into situations in which you have the router table dialed into a particular setup and you need to use the miter saw. Probably not a big deal because you can always go to the TS in a pinch... Just food for thought.
  13. For me, a crosscut sled. Used on every project.
  14. I respectfully edit my post: Replace "bummer about the false positive" with "Glad to hear your jig is ok." ?
  15. Bummer about the false positive. I'm sure Sawstop has figured out an NPV of annuity payments for every sawstop sold for replacement brakes. That said I am really thinking hard about getting one, pay for a little peace of mind. While I have respect for all my power tools, the stress level is a tad higher than others when I flip the TB power switch to "on".
  16. The other thing I might add is get your feet checked. If you have imperfect bone structure the docs might be able to give you some options that improve your posture.
  17. Look up stretches you can do for your back. Tad older than you, but have had both significant upper and lower back pain (knock you to your knees pain). Since I started stretching, the back pain is way less frequent or as intense.
  18. $1400 is the grizzly. Looks like about $2000 for Jet.
  19. Dude just starts rocking it out at about 4:00. Love it. Not a musician, that back of the hand strumming, that style called Spanish guitar?
  20. Middle ground on jointers... PM's younger brother Jet? Or any other good brands that aren't quite the "gold standard"?
  21. Oh, right you are! Do I want these boards flat-ish and squar-ish? Hell no! FLAT and SQUARE, so desperately need a Powermatic jointer. Here is the rub. Isn't it an insult to have such perfectly milled lumber, then make cuts on a contractor saw? I honestly don't know how I get by. Let's plus up that $3k jointer, with a $3k p table saw. A must.
  22. A train of thought I had this morning. I desperately need new jointer knives, my current knifes are nicked. $27 I really am not getting great life out of these knives, I think I will get carbide. $66 Setting jointer knives really suck. Where's that video Marc did where he recommends some sort of dial indicator thinging... Here it is. Let's add that. $66+$90=$156. Whats better than a jointer calibration tool? Not having to set jointer knives at all. Since I'm in this price range, why not a spiral cutter head. $270. Seems silly to spend this kind of money on my jointer with only 6in capa
  23. This is taking my original post in a different direction, but just curious to learn new things... If there was a little bit of sap, I think some of you suggested airbrush dye. How is that done? I get that a perfect match is impossible, particularly the way cherry darkens with time, but can this methodology create passable results? This question is partly hypothetical and partly not :-).