graffis

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About graffis

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  1. This idea of gluing and clamping a walnut strip between the doors and then ripping it down the middle makes sense to me. In order to hide the glue line, you might want to consider routing a bead (see link below) down the edge of the styles on both sides of each door. If you want to extend the bead to the end of the drawer front, that may be another consideration. .http://www.rockler.com/search/go?isort=score&lgkey=http%3a%2f%2fwww.rockler.com%2ffreud-corner-beading-bit&method=and&p=R&restrict=site%3anormal&rk=4&rsc=IgouvsNQXAvOcqOt&ts=custom&uid=674297908&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.rockler.com%2ffreud-corner-beading-bit&view=grid&w=BEADING BITS Good luck
  2. What do the boards look like on the other side?
  3. So-o-o, not to put too fine a point on this topic, but I was thinking about another possible solution. Since I don't have the room for long lengths of condensing pipes above my compressor, how about if I coiled a long length of copper tubing around, say, a 5 gallon bucket from top to bottom to give the coil "shape" and then use that coil between my compressor and the hose reel? If I did do this, should the coil be oriented vertically or horizontally or wont it matter? My hose is 3/8" ID so I could use the same size copper tubing. Would this work or do I still need to somehow incorporate a drain valve or is the entire concept too "Rube Goldberg"? I'd hate to spend all that money on copper tubing and still have water spray on my projects.
  4. Hey everybody- Thanks so much for all the useful input. It's fantastic and I really appreciate the posts. I will try to use a couple of separators (in series) next to the compressor to see how that works since I don't think I have the room for the condensing pipes. My primary use for compressed air, at least so far, is blowing sawdust off my projects, and occasionally for a small nail air gun. Not ready for prime time spray painting. But getting water spray on my sanded finish is a pain, thus the reason for my question. Anyway, thanks again for everyone's help. This is a great forum to be part of. Just one last question: Do water separators have to be drained regularly or are there models that are designed to avoid this issue? Given the location of where they will need to be placed, it will be a pain to drain them regularly.
  5. I've got a 20 gallon 1.5 HP compressor attached to a retractable 25' hose reel. See pic below. Every time I use the compressed air, a lot of moisture comes out with the air--almost like a spray gun. I have a drain valve on the bottom of the tank which I drain regularly by "blowing out" the water but the problem persists. I've been told that an oil/water filter needs to be at least 15-20 feet from the compressor in order to be effective. Given the setup I have, that would be difficult without moving the reel. There's about 5 feet of hose between the compressor and the reel and I've got room on top of the compressor housing to install, within reason, some kind of filter system. Given this scenario, any suggestions as to how I can eliminate the moisture/condensation problem would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Next time any of you run your fingers across a surface to check out how smooth it is, you might keep in mind what I just read in the linked article: http://www.isciencetimes.com/articles/6073/20130917/sensitive-human-touch-ne Basically it says that if your finger was the size of the earth, you could tell the difference between the height of a car and the height of a house. Pretty amazing! Does this mean we now have to sand down a project to 8000 grit?
  7. Oops that should be 1/16" above the piece, i.e., top of cutters are centered on the hardboard.
  8. How about sandwiching a 1/8" thick piece of hardboard between the template and the piece your working on using double stick tape? Raise the bit so the cutters are about 1/8" above the piece (or below the template). You should be good to go.
  9. Thanks everyone for your input. I had trouble with the jig recommended initially becausethe dowel spins with the drill bit. So I built the "jig" in the attached pics. BasicallyI took a block of 2 x 4 and centered a 5/8" hole on it. I then ripped it across the diameter of the hole with my table saw and clamped it to the drill press as depicted in the pics. I "centered" the hole by eyeballing it. Not 100% accurate but good enough for my needs. Thanks again for everyone's help. Much appreciated.
  10. I need to drill a 3/8" hole in the end of a 5/8" diameter dowel. The hole needs to be an inch deep. The total length of the dowel is 3 1/2" long. What's the best way to accurately do this. I don't have a lathe but do have a drill press. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Thanks guys. I feel a lot better and I like the bevel idea.
  12. I'm building a solid cherry credenza for my daughter (see attached drawing) having two "shaker style" frame and panel doors centered in the unit with solid wood floating panels. There is no divider between the doors. I plan to install the doors using offset ("L" shaped) knife hinges--something I've never done before. The overall dimensions of each door are 19" high x 13" wide. All rails and styles are 1 3/4" wide having a thickness of 3/4". Everything I've read and seen on videos indicate that for proper installation of knife hinges, the space surrounding each door should equal the thickness of the washer between the two hinge leafs. For the hinges I purchased (which were not cheap), that space is equal to about the thickness of 2 - 3 playing cards (0.022" - 0.033"). My concern is this: Is this enough space to allow seasonal expansion without the door getting stuck or jammed? Planning down the doors to fit after installation would be problematical since the hinges need to be mortised and precisely fitted into the top and bottom of the doors and the carcass frame. Also, cutting the mortise in the frame (divider) needs to be done before assembly and glue up so "fixing" the problem by modifying the frame dimensions would not be easy. Has anyone had any experience with this? Do you think the space to allow expansion is adequate given the dimensions of the doors? My daughter lives in the Sierra foothills--hot and dry in the summer, cold and wet in the winter. Any advice would be appreciated. Credenza.pdf
  13. Found it! Thanks guys. Your help is appreciated.
  14. It is a 20mm arbor. I have an old Inca table saw (20 mm arbor) and recently bought a new one (SawStop) which has a 5/8" arbor.
  15. Check out the article by Robert Terry in the Jan/Feb 1988 issue of FWW (Volume 68,page 62). He tells you how to make a dust collection switch and even sells (or sold) the parts for it for 46 bucks. Of course that was 26 years ago so you'll have to factor in inflation. Good luck!