• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Yaksouth

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Carolina
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building furniture and cabinetry. Woodcarving for fun and relaxation.
  1. Don't know what was different with Particle Boards application of Nexabond above. but I'm sitting here looking at the hardwood banding project I used it on. I have dropped some of the finished shelves as I moved pieces from my basement shop to upper floors, but have not seen any bond failure. I am planning on delivering and installing this unit this weekend (after the varnish fully cures and final rub out). Hope Nexabond continues to hold! ???
  2. Sorry, was cleaning up some emails and just saw that Japan Woodworker has this Nexabond on sale at $14.03. Link below......... http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/158792/Nexabond-2500-Instant-Wood-Glue.aspx
  3. Yes Rockler has this at $8 for 1oz. and $17 for 4 oz. If you're like me and like to get "close" to your work, they also have a 2oz. De-Bonder for $7.40. This stuff will stick your fingers together just as fast and firm as the wood!! Word to the wise!
  4. The Nexabond pamphlet shows the glue up of various solid wood joints, but the project I was on required the edge banding of solid wood strips to plywood shelves. So I thought this would be a good test to see how Nexabond worked on these thirsty plywood edges. I stood the shelves on edge (they were only lightly sanded as prep), and squiggled on a bead of Nexabond to this surface ONLY! I placed the wood edging in place by hand and rubbed it around a bit to distribute the glue. Then I taped the edging in place with painters tape and laid the shelf on two clamps to prevent contact with my work surface. I then repeated this with the second shelf. By the time I finished taping this piece, the first piece was cured!! I immediately got my chisel and trimmed the banding flush. Any glue sueeze out was easily removed by the chisel at the same time. The perimeter of 3 shelves (11”x 33”) were completely banded and trimmed in under 90 minutes. Normally with my Titebond, I’ll glue up all edges on one day, and leave them clamped/taped until the next day to assure full cure. This Nexabond was amazing giving clean, crisp glue lines with great strength!! I’m sold!
  5. TR, yes, I've been the same way...burning thru the standard blades. Then when I have an emergency repair, I find that all I have is burnt blades. So far this carbide blade seems to perform like the difference between Carbide and High Speed Steel router bits (and almost NO ONE uses high speed steel router bits anymore). I've found (2) blades for $34 on Amazon and they also have an adapter for $2 if you have a Dremel Multi-tool. I'm in the Charleston area of SC. Been here since 1996.
  6. I strongly recommend this Bosch Carbide Blade for cutting tough materials with an Oscillating Tool. This blade lets you apply versatile Oscillating Tools to hard-to-cut materials with speed and ease. For example, I cut accurate rectangular holes in 5/16” thick Cement Board quickly and with less dust than other options I've used (drill at corners and jig saw). This Bosch Blade is superior to the bi-blades I have been using with my Oscillating Tool for the past four years. I cut 56 linear inches in 5/16" thick cement board and 12 sections of ⅜" steel rod and threw in several miscellaneous trim cuts of ½" plywood. This Blade still looks new! (picture below) Note the only concern is that if you have a Dremel 6300 or MM20, Rockwell hex drive or Toolshop Oscillating Tool, you will need to pony up for a little adapter ring ($2 on Amazon) to transition to this Blade. But the toughness of this blade is well worth it.
  7. I have been woodworking for over 20 years and have always used homemade push sticks for sawing, routing, etc. This GRR-Rip Block outperformed anything I have used. The "Podular Green" sole provided an extremely strong grip. And the large, angled handle provided comfort and consistent contact with any fence. I could control large panels on the table saw due to the Blocks "grippiness". Smaller pieces were also easily controlled whether the cuts were vertical against the fence or horizontal against the table. Used it on router table, band saw and table saw with ease. Only suggestions would be to mold a tab with a hole in it on either end to allow hanging the block on a hook when not in use. Large handle is not as convenient for hanging. Also a narrower version would be useful for cuts using narrower stock.
  8. Does anyone know a source for design of the Butterfly Leaf mechanism for a dining table. I am designing and plan to build an oval dining table aprrox. 40" X 62" and would like to incorporate the ability to add approx. 14" leaf. I have seen Butterfly Leaf tables where the leaf is split and folds into the table for permanent storage. Does anyone have a source for the details of the Butterfly mechanism??? I would like to minimize the trial and error to properly locate the various swivel points on the table and leaf sections. Thanks!!
  9. I have long used a home-made blend of oils (usually BLO or Tung) and urethanes thinned with naptha or mineral spirits (sometimes substituting Japan Drier as well) for hand finishing furniture using wipe-on techniques Does anyone have experience with developing a similar wipe-on finish using water based products? Can you get the depth of wood feel as with oil/varnish blends? Any tricks to improve the result? I can see the benefits of elimination of solvent vapors, etc., and hope someone has had experience with testing the water based products using hand-finishing techniques. Thanks, Yaksouth