Coop

Congrats Mark! Well deserved indeed!

So the moral of this story is, don’t sand N-S?

Thanks Chet. We had an Ace hardware within a qtr of a mile from my house and another about 2 miles away. Lowes and HD moved in and they shut their doors. Not only did we loose the products but we lost the home grown knowledge and customer service. Pissed me off!!!!

I’ve looked at HD, Kroger and Walmart for Johnson’s paste wax and was about to order it from Amazon. I didn’t know that Minwax made some. Thanks!

Do you have a receptacle of some sort outside your wall for the dust?

The “I’d die on my feet than live on my knees” and the bodies holding up the flag impressed me. I’ve never heard either of these.

@RichardA shared this with me and I don’t want it to stop with me so I thought I would share with others. Sometimes we loose sight of the history of our freedom. Enjoy.

And I just ordered a new SMART tv. I can’t operate the 8 yo one I have that has voice commands. Money well spent?

I like the design. Very clean lines on the side for the glass to slide out.

I made a sample board from the inside of one of the drawer fronts and applied ARS, GF HP, and Zinsser Seal Coat (dewaxed shellac). So far, I like the shellac the best. I mixed up some WellerMart blonde shellac flakes yesterday and will try it today. The top will definitely be ARS.

Thanks. I sure hope so. Again, I wish the heartwood here was a little lighter to accent the ambrosia streaks. I have a stunning piece of sap wood curly maple that is very white that I would like to use but I’m afraid it would be too light in color and be distractive. It would almost be the same shade as the drawer boxes shown now. The wild side of me says band the outside edges of the ambrosia maple drawer fronts with walnut?

I have to give credit to Stumpy Nubs. He came by one afternoon and gave me some pointers! We considered it, using the same glass in my door. We went to the glass store and decided that the dark glass would look better and help tie in the dark streaks in the ambrosia maple drawer fronts and the walnut top. A piece of walnut that will be used for the top, rests on top in the previous series of pics. Here is a piece sitting in place, that will be used for one of the drawer fronts. I wish the background of these were more whitish but, you gotta dance with the one what brung ya!

As my doors get a panel of dark tinted glass, I chose tongue and groove construction. After cutting the rails and stiles to length, I cut the grooves in all of the 8 pieces on the ts using the dado stack. I ran them thru and flipping them end for end thru again to insure the groove was centered. Using a scrap of the same thickness, I set the blades to cut the tongues. After these came out of the clamps, the rabbet on the inside was cut on the router table with a rabbeting bit. The corners were squared up with a chisel. I installed the Blum Euro soft close hinges after closely following the instructions. The doors are made from the same maple as the case sides and this was the last of that lumber so no room for errors. I’ll tackle the legs next.

I don’t have a miter saw station but if I did, I would treat the indicators, hairline or not, the same as I do to the ones on my ts and planer. Ignore them completely. Usually a stop block is used to cut multiple same length parts. I cut my first piece to fit, set the stop block and cut the remaining pieces. I think this is referred to as relative dimensioning.

With what? Just a clean rag?

Very nice indeed. The finish came out looking great.

Those are cool. Not being a turner, what is twice turned oak?

I had an amazing day today with my wife, son and daughter. Unfortunately my two grandkids are away at college with summer courses. I hope all of you dad’s enjoyed your day!

It ain’t purty but functionally will have to trump beauty this time.

That was my thought. And replace the end wood screws with pan head ones. My first mistake (well, maybe not the first one) was to make the drawers as wide which required the runners to be so thin with less meat.

It looks like I need to rethink these runners. They are attached with wood screws which leave no room for wood movement for the panels to which they are attached.

Wow! I can see where the benefits reaped would keep the lights burning for a good while!

That is awesome! How many days do you figure you had in this job?

What is the DRO?

I I got all of my drawer boxes together, then out of the clamps. I waited until these were glued up to cut the groove in the sides for the slide rail, just in case cutting another groove would cause any last minute funky wood movement. These were cut on the ts with the dado stack, 1/2” wide by 1/4” deep. I fine tuned the runners on the drum sander and with the help of a spacer, got them installed. I also got the left side of the cabinet in place and held together wide hide glue and clamps. I’m having second thoughts about adding additional drawer fronts. This will save me money on drawer pulls! Next up will be the doors.