Michael Schaefer

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    hand tools, furniture, cabinetry, not sucking at finishing

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  1. It seems like the Powermatic 3520b is no longer widely available. Does anyone have any insight on this? Is it being replaced?
  2. I'm bringing this thread back from the dead! How about a Hall tree? Big enough for two people to sit on, boot storage in the bottom?
  3. A Wall Street Journal article, this morning, included information on the sale of Craftsman to Stanley. "The cash-strapped retailer will sell its iconic Craftsman brand to Stanley for about $900 million." Growing up on a farm Craftsman was the gold standard for (non motorized/electric) tools, lifetime warranty, made in the USA, good fit and finish, etc. By the time I started buying my own tools, in the 90's, they seemed to be slipping; I'm hopeful that Stanley will help bring them back to their former glory. http://www.wsj.com/articles/sears-sells-craftsman-brand-to-stanley-black-decker-1483623215?emailToken=JRrzc/p5ZHyQgNIxbMwn2VQydewTBuuNXRbcNnnEJlPJvXqQq/iowalwm9zyun%2BmQ0J39pUO62c0RnjdjWFpUdXUwuIvygn%2BICME8w%3D%3D
  4. Thanks for the advice! I was planning on using two of the undermounts, and I still might, but I do think I need to verify what the full extension length is going to be. Side mounts are inherently stronger, but I really don't want to have to give up any more width.
  5. My wife and I recently moved into a new house which has a narrow, but very deep vertical pantry. The pantry has a few shelves, but does not have any internal drawers, with the depth of the pantry this is a major drawback. I have considered Marc's spreadsheet for buy vs. build and am planning on going with the build option. I will need about 6 drawers, roughly 10" wide and about 24" long. I need to be able to build these quickly (eg one shop day / one weekend) or SWMBO will choose a less desirable option. I am planning on using 1/2" Birch plywood for the sides, solid birch for the front and back and 1/4" birch plywood for the bottoms. I am planning on using Blume undermount hardware. I was going to pick up one of the Leigh dovetail jigs and do half blind dovetails for the sides into the front (e.g. cover the exposed plywood edge.) I was going to use Birch to match the existing shelves, but I could easily be pushed to another pale wood. Thoughts? Any suggestions on expediting? Experience with the Leigh 4212 or 4216 jig? Should I just use hardwood for the sides as well? And yes, I would rather cut the dovetails by hand, but my dovetails aren't that good yet and I am far to slow to get these done in a weekend.
  6. One other option, particularly if the table is going to be set up in a shop, would be to build a Ron Paulk workbench. http://www.paulkhomes.com/order-plans.html I built one to use as my tablesaw outfeed table, as well as for my Festool power tools. I needed an outfeed table and wanted something larger than the MFT, but with most of the functionality. It has made for a good assembly table as well as it is a large workbench.
  7. I had this same problem recently and used a router with a flush trim bit to remove most of the nose, then cleaned up the ends with a chisel and a flush cut saw. My stairs were the kind involving the dado described above....this was not a fun project, at all.
  8. I have the Knew Concepts Coping saw and I am all too regularly snapping Pegasus blades with it. These tend not to be kink-breaks, just explosive...."oh look, half of the blade is over there now" sort of breaks. I use the saw on the pull stroke as I think it is easier to control. I really like the saw and even with the exploding blades it is drastically better than the buck bros POS that I upgraded it from. I'm one tail board into building Shannon's saw till and I'm on my second blade already. I was going to blame the blades, but now I'm not sure. Too much tension?
  9. Hi Guys, I recently bought the cheese knife set from Rockler and I'm having trouble with the mandrel. http://www.rockler.com/mandrel-3-4-in-shoulder-1-4-in-20-threads I have had no issue attaching the mandrel to the blank, my problem lies in connecting the mandrel to my headstock. The photos seem to show a drill chuck, but my drill chuck (and I think most) is just a friction fit between the drill chuck and the morris taper shaft. If I mount the drill chuck in my headstock, then put the mandrel and work piece on, without having the tailstock putting pressure on the workpiece (and effectively the drill chuck) then the drill chuck separates from the morris taper shaft and the workpiece falls. I was at the Rockler store on Sunday and they were dumbfounded by this....they actually put the parts together and then went "yeah that isn't going to work." They didn't have a solution. Do I need to get a different drill chuck? I'm not having the best luck finding one that will screw onto my headstock. I'm a pretty novice turner and this has me completely flummoxed.
  10. I know they are a little bit pricey, but I've had a Texas Heritage Woodworking apron for the last six months and absolutely love it. www.txheritage.net Some of you may have met Jason Thigpen (the owner/craftsman) behind TX Heritage at Handworks, where he had aprons to try out and was selling some of his tool rolls.
  11. I have a couple of these, to use with the different profiles and for doing tapered sliding dovetails....you will not be disappointed. I will caution you, this is not a plane body where you only buy one....that's what I started with and then the next profile order included another one.
  12. I have the 18 ga Ryobi cordless brad nailer, and thus far I've been happy with it. They are on sale from time to time and I think I got mine for about $100. As I'm a hobbiest, and bought my cordless tools when I didn't have money to spend, I started with Ryobi and have stayed standardized with them. For around the house and hobby use I have no complaints, especially now that they have the Lithium Ion batteries.
  13. Hi All, Shop Woodworking is running a Black Friday in July sale, use the code BFJULY40 for 40% off your order. This apparently works with bundle/clearance merchandise as I just bought both the first ten seasons of Woodwright's Shop and the first three seasons of David Marks Woodworks for $211 total.
  14. Hi All, I'm working on building a traveling ATC. In the book, Chris never seems to be particularly happy with a method to support the lid in the 'up' position. The Brusso JB-280's (http://www.brusso.com/jb-280/) look like a solid option....but I haven't been able to find any reviews or info on them. Any suggestions?
  15. I just got mine last Friday and then used it over the weekend to joint some hard maple for my moxon vise. I sharpened mine, to about a 31 degree angle, and it worked wonderfully.