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About Jharry

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture and cabinetry

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  1. Thanks guys! Yes, I'm a noob. Just want a super smooth finish, although close to wood look, after done. (Mind this is going to be a bar too with lots of glasses and such). Was just going by Marc's suggestion on one of the wood whisperer vids to pore fill prior to finish on table top. He didn't mention wiping back after first application so handslap to him....lol. I'll know better now. Seems after watching countless videos and articles, I can still only learn by mistakes. ...and, I have seen open pore wood surfaces like oak with poly and no pore filling and it looked odd to me. Anyways, I did start to hit my slabs with card scraper this morning and looks like that's the ticket. Also did a mineral spirit wipe down as wtnhighlander suggested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. After the wet sand I didn't do any wiping back. I just left the slurry! Anything I can do now to remove and start over if it's soaked down in? How deep would it go? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I'm finishing a walnut bar top and plan on using GF arm-r-seal. I went to pore fill the surface first after sanding up to 180. I wet sanded with Watco Danish oil per suggestions on one of the wood whisperer early vids on refinishing. After 24 hours the surface wasn't dry and now I've waited 4 days. Thought it was dry tonight and went to dry sand it starting with 220. It appears areas are still not dry as 220 would do nothing and back to 180 creating a 'gummy' mess in a few areas. Is that indication that its still not dried? Its looking like I'm going to have to start again at a lot lower grit and basically get below the pores that were filled (start over). Or should I give it more time? Beings this is the first time I've done this process, was not expecting these results/problems and based on what Marc said in the vid, thought the dry time would be much faster. It has been unusually wet here in Colorado this Summer so I guess that might have something to do with it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  4. thanks all for the responses. I'll have to see if I can find a motor repair shop. My thought was also that it was/is the thing from picture five. didn't know it was called a centrifugal switch but now I do, thanks. Not sure where I can find that part. Maybe Grainger? If that's it, I may try that first before having to take it to someone. It appears the main switch (picture 1) is working. what would I hook the multimeter to? the two leads or conductors at the centrifugal switch? Thanks!
  5. btw, this was my first 'real' table saw (upgrade from my $100 craigslist craftsman contractor saw)
  6. my two cents is to buy new. I'm going through table saw woes right now on a used saw I bought. after lots of calibration and cleaning on what looked like a decent saw, I thought I had it working well. however, just found out the motor was full of dust and something went wrong with it recently that caused it to stop working (see my other post I just put up for more details). I wish now I would have bought new. Now instead of woodworkimg, I'm tinkering with tools. (which I'm finding is part of wood working, but is minimized with new tools).
  7. hi guys, I've had a problem with my table saw, specifically with the motor. It's and older JET 5 HP cabinet. I'll try not to go into too many details but was wondering if any of you guys have had a similar experience and/or more expertise than me on things electrical/mechanical that could help me get it up and running again. Here's some details: I was using the saw the other day and it was working fine. I went to start it for a cut and got a big flash from the motor. Could even see it from above the table. I started smelling burning wood! Immediately got under the table, and removed the motor which was a huge pain in the a$$. Pulled it all apart and found it was pretty much caked with dust everywhere and the spark had caught the saw dust on fire (there were a few smoldering embers in there). also bearings on the shaft weren't smooth. so cleaned it all up, and got the bearings replaced and spins very smoothly now. Put it all back together and wired it up outside the saw. Tried to turn it on and got the same results. big spark or arc which threw the breaker. Tried again and it actually working (spun the shaft). However, only worked once and now it won't do anything. I'm not familiar with how the wiring on the motor works but it's definitely arcing where the conductors are connected near the shaft. I've attached some pictures if it helps. if any one has any ideas, it would be much appreciated. One other thing: now when I switch it on there's only a slight electric hum from the switch but no effect at the motor. There's not a fuse somewhere is there? I suppose I should check whether there's power at the motor now. regardless, the arcing is probably the main problem.
  8. Jharry

    Jointer Woes

    Thanks for the responses guys. I was referring to the lengthwise direction, just didn't know how to explain it other than cup. Here's a longwinded answer or response to t-astragal's question (so stop reading here if you better things to do;) There was really more to my question than just being anal. First off, I realize wood is not perfect. Just so you know where I'm coming from, this is the first time I've used a jointer and the milling I was doing was to check accuracy. After countless hours of adjustment including a full take apart, cleaning, and reassembly, I'm trying to convince myself the machine is nuts on. I'd like it to be, at least to begin with. So it sounds like if I can run an 8/4 board through or I'd also think, edge joint a board, perfectly straight, it should be good to go. Secondly, I'm very much a beginner at woodworking, and definitely so with this jointer and my planer. I guess you could criticize why I have the tools in the first place if I'm such a noob. My only argument is that I've really wanted to start woodworking for a long time and got a great deal on them. Anyways, to answer your question about if I'm having fun. I'd so no, not at the moment, but I feel getting my tools dailed in at the beginning will make things more fun and rewarding when I actually start milling stuff for real projects. Finally, just try to think about when you were first starting out. There's tons of questions you have about how things should be done and how accurate they need to be. Places like this are a great resource for us beginners so it's good to know I don't need to sweat over 1/32. Again though, the question was really related to setup accuracy and whether the technique might be to blame over the machine. Thank you all again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Jharry

    Jointer Woes

    Thanks guys. Guess I just need to practice and hope my setup is good. If I have to tweek with it one more time I'm gonna end up taking a sledge hammer to it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. +1 for taking it apart. Funny , I just posted with another question on a jointer. I think I sort of hate mine. I distrust it so much that I worry about putting it out of alignment when pulling it around the shop on the mobile base. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Jharry

    Jointer Woes

    Hey all. Wondering if anyone could give me advice on getting good results from my jointer. I think I finally have it adjusted right. Had a hell of a time doing that but that's another story. I'm struggling with how perfect my boards need to be. Example: I'm milling 4/4 boards to build a sitting bench top and want to keep them about 3/4". Again, I think the jointer is all dialed in. One board has a slight cup length wise (it's about 3' long). I mark the bottom, run it through cup down, until marks are gone. Looks great to eye. Put my 4' lee valley straight edge on it and see a small cup is still there (maybe 1/32 at center). Don't want to run it through much more to save thickness. Seems the board is flexing slightly as I apply pressure through cut and that no matter how many passes, that slight cup will still be there. So, is this somewhat normal with longish/flat stock? Am I overthinking this and should just run with it? Also, assuming my machine is set up right, is there a technique problem here? I can probably post some pictures if that would help. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Great link. Thanks. How did you connect your branch pipes using metal pipe? Did you use a sealant? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks Bruce. Do have a couple questions right off the bat since you offered:). Can you buy wye connections or do you have to build those up yourself? Can't recall if I've seen those at HD. I know penn state sells them. Do you use metal screws, rivets, or nothing (tape)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thank you all for the advice...This community is great! Sounds like I could successfully do it with with the HD/lowes stuff which will probably be the easiest route for me. Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks for response. I guess I'm not completely dead set on metal, just thought it would be easier to install and cheaper. Have a 2hp single stage collector and should always have one gate open. What's the lightest PVC gauge that can be used. Would the thin wall drainage pipe work? Think I saw metal spiral pipe in Marc's shop but not sure where you get that other than online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk