Tumbles1982

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Everything posted by Tumbles1982

  1. Round is easy and square is hard. There you go! Square isn't worth the extra effort in my humble opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Do you have a machinery hire place nearby? They should have a hand pulled forklift that would do the trick. http://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Product/20087/China_hand_pallet_truck20087221517181.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. t All finished. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I would personally put this in my screw that, too dangerous category. You may well find the table saw arbor is not long enough to hold a dado stack anyway. If it were me I'd save to upgrade the saw and find another way to do the cut I want the dado blade to do. Usually there's a way to do it with a router if you have one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. As above, and try mineral spirits if water doesn't work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 2nd paint it. Stain won't make it look any better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Making the swivelling clocks the Marc did a video of, but making the back a magnet closed photo frame. Well that's the plan anyway. We'll see how I get on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. No expert, but I would think a card or cabinet scraper would be ideal to flatten the knot. Or a belt sander. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Depends on the exact style of your riving knife, but you may be able to get a machine shop to just thin it for you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Wow. That's all I can say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. One of the photos in the review post shows me holding a ruler to it. It's way out. The real effect in terms of inaccuracy is very small though. Having said that I am investigating replacing it with stick on tape. I'm just looking for one that's got both inches and cm and looks like similar to the original. Or I might just lift it and stick back down straight I haven't decided yet. Did you get yours in the latest batch or had it for a while? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Vice: left side if right handed, right side if left handed. Makes the mechanics of planing work easier. Depends on how you plan to use your bench, but I'd imagine putting it in the middle will just get in the way. Ideally I think the legs should be placed such that they balance the top with as much top mass inside the legs as outside. That means the top is less likely to sag outside or inside the leg supports. The other consideration is that most people like their front vice on the outside of their legs. Sometimes this means biasing the base to one side to make room. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Try just wiping it with mineral spirits Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Here's a couple more photos. 1 showing a plastic laminate cut. I really like that Fusion blade! The other is the stamp on the side of the motor showing 2hp and less than 10a rating. I just took delivery of a dado stack today so will see how the saw goes with that. I've had no issues with the full kerf blade so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Another one for the diablo combination blade. I wouldn't think a zci would impact saw marks, just tearout. But suffice to say, use a zci as well. They say you only need to sand to about 120 grit for edges you are going to glue, so blade marks that aren't too severe I'd just go straight to glueing provided I can clamp them adequately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 2 options spring to mind for me: 1: get some of those drywall picture frame hanging do-dads. Screw the really course thread anchor bits into the MDF (pilot holes drilled first) and the line the hardware up with the anchor bits. This method will depend on the head type of the drywall screws. The hanging hardware may require a chamfered screw but the drywall screws may have a flat head. 2: just use the hardware and screws that you have but drill pilot holes only slightly smaller than your screws and pour in a small amount of epoxy or other strong glue into the pilots before you screw in the actual fastening screws. You'll need to be able to do this before its hanged so that the glue has time to set. Hopes this helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I actually had no problems hand planing some MDF for a zci for my mitre saw. I found the handplane allowed me to dial in to the perfect fit easier than trying to precisely set up a router cut for the correct depth. I'm currently making zci's for my new tablesaw and am using laminate covered mdf. At the end of the day doing up a few zci's isn't going to ruin my handplane but I will re-sharpen after I'm done. The surface isn't fuzzy with a razor sharp plane iron and there's no issue if you sit the planed side down anyway. The benefit of MDF is it's cheap compared to high quality ply, and super stable over any length of time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I'm not familiar with Bosch blades sorry but I hear they make some good ones. There should be some sort of comparison in FWW online if you have a paid sub there. A good blade will cut relatively cleanly (relative to other jigsaw blades, they aren't the finest instruments!) and not bend in the cut if used correctly. That's my usual problem when jigsawing - having the blade skew out and bend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Another vote for jigsaw and sand. It's pretty easy to cut close to a curved line with a jigsaw to minimise sanding required. However like anything, make sure the blade is top notch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I searched for a Table saw for about 6 months and decided that I wanted about as high end as I could go, without requiring house electrical work. I'm in Australia, so this meant a 240v, 10 amp saw. In the Australian market, this left me with pretty much two choices. The Jet Proshop 10", and the Laguna Fusion. Both are what would be considered Hybrid saws. Turning to the internet for research (I live about 2 hours drive away from the dealers for each brand) I found a lot of information on the Jet, but next to nothing on the Laguna. However what sold me was the video on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIqqwa2xJs4 and talking to the sales reps from each place. This is why I thought I'd put this review up, so that other people interested have something to look at! This is the first table saw I have owned except for a dodgy Ryobi table top unit that I took back because it wasn’t straight. Therefore I have nothing to compare against, but fair to say I am very impressed! I’l save the in depth specs details for the Laguna website (http://www.gregmach.com/Machinery/Saws/Table/FusionRip.html), but the quick summary is: 2hp induction motor (some info says 1 3/4 but this Australian one is definitely 2hp). Trunnion mounted blade guard and riving knife supplied. Bessy style T fence. Cast iron top AND wings. Full cabinet construction with integrated wheels and cabinet (not table) mounted trunnion. Cost: $1590 AUD (the same as the Jet Proshop). The saw arrived well packaged in a plywood crate, with the fence and fence rails packaged separately. This is probably to allow swapping between the 36” and 52” fence options. I got the 36”. There was also some funny Taiwanese cereal wrapper that the cabinet was resting on. Unpacking was a simple single man procedure due to the inbuilt wheels. I just used a scrap bit of wood as a ramp a wheeled it right off the crate and into position. Note though that the wheels are braked in the crate so you want to check the manual to see how to unlock them, rather than just wonder why the wheels are so stiff like me! Everthing was in mint condition except for some scuff marks on the cabinet on one face that rubbed out easily enough. The wings and fence attached about as easily as expected. That is to say its not easy to do solo, but is quite possible. I made maximum use of my builder’s spirit level to make sure the fence rails were flat and parallel to the table top as I screwed them into place. The wings and fence rails all just used bolts to attach. They needed a tiny bit of manipulation to hold in place as the bolts were done up but in general the alignment was very good. No bolts or washers missing and everything went together smoothly. Next I went through the calibration. I checked the alignment of the the blade to the miter slots, the rip fence to the miter slots, the 45 and 90 degree blade stops, the vertical alignment of the rip fence, and the alignment of the miter gauge. Overall everything was great. The left miter slot was -.002”, the right was +.001” to the blade. The 45 and 90 degree blade stops were bang on. The fence was -.01” so I adjusted that to -.005”. The miter gauge was out by only .1 of a degree at 90 degrees. The only thing that was a bit iffy was the measuring tape on the fence. Firstly it was stuck on slightly crooked, although the effect of this over 60 cm was negligible. It was also stuck on further down the fence rail than ideal. This meant that whilst the manual said the left end of the fence should be flush with the end of the left wing, I actually had to sit it slightly further to the left to ensure that the 0 mark on the tape was sitting in the right place. The overall result is that my 36” fence is probably only about a 35” useable fence. I fitted a Freud Fusion blade because the original blade was pants. Check out the quality of the carbide brazing (had to have the Fusion blade to go with the Fusion saw!) and prepare to power the sucker up. Damn! Turns out the plug had a 15 amp earthing pin rather than a normal sized 10 amp pin! Fair to say I was most disappointed in this, but then an idea came. I just connected it to an international adaptor plug. This had a larger slot for the earthing pin (probably for british plugs) and plugged straight in. I know that sounds a bit dodgy, but I used a quality outdoor power board with RCD protection (only the table saw attached) so I effectively had three circuit breakers in the line in case of trouble. I also know that 2hp is just under 1500 watts and 1500 watts at 240V is an amp draw of 6.25A. Plenty of fat allowing for initial power on spike. Sure enough the saw started up no worries and I was into my first cut! I just did a quick crosscut of some pine with the stock throat plate and wow. Just the faintest tear-out and very fine blade tracks. Tomorrow I’ll be into some Meranti and other random Australian jungle wood. That should test out the circuit breakers more but I am 100% confident that it won’t be a problem. I’ll update this once I start ripping some hardwoods and really start to test it out but day one impressions are that this is an awesome saw. I know the US market has more variety in this price bracket (around $1300 USD). However here there are far fewer choices and the Saw Stops here are just stupidly expensive (double the price for the contractor saw). I am very impressed!