Arminius

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About Arminius

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  • Woodworking Interests
    cabinets, chairs, turing
  1. Keep an eye out on the calendar, they have one at Rosemount almost every year. Not quite as big as the US ones, as there are not usually as may other demonstrators. My recollection is that Montreal is more often in May than November. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/hand-tool-events/Canada/17
  2. I have the Shinto, and a few Liogier in finer grains. I like both tools, and my experience is probably skewed by the fact that my Liogier are finer finish. I have mostly used my Shinto for shaping paddle blades, the rough side is really quite a nice tool for material removal while still leaving a reasonable finish. Except for very flat/broad surfaces, I prefer the French rasps to the fine side of the Shinto when it comes to finishing work. In terms of straight enjoyment of use, definitely the Liogier.
  3. $200 for one that is running well enough to turn spindles is daylight robbery. If you restore it to Apple Wood's standard, your grandchildren could be using it. To get a comparable lathe in today's market, you would be looking at ten times that.
  4. Lee Valley recommends using mineral spirits in a rag, then coating it with no-silicone paste wax. You really probably do not need to tear it down at all, just address the ductile iron exposed surfaces.
  5. Galbert's book is about to come out, shipping this week and I am really looking forward to it. http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/chairmakers-notebook
  6. Sort of reminds me of when Home Depot entered the Canadian market. For the first few months, they had the most impressive display of Phillips head screws I can recall seeing in the Canadian market, and not a Robertson to be found. For whatever reason, square drive are the market standard in Canada, staff were overwhelmed with people asking where they were.
  7. Hock has a somewhat limited selection, but I am sure they are great knives. http://www.hocktools.com/KCKP.htm
  8. The Sorby unit doesn't look that different from this one at Lee Valley. Useful for when you do not want a hollow-grind.
  9. For a maple and wenge box, I'd give the maple a coat of BLO, sand it back so that it brings out the figure(140, then 300), maybe do that again, then do the whole piece in a blonde or super-blonde shellac.
  10. I am always short at least one positive before I am done coffee.
  11. It has to do with the number of poles and the frequency (60 Hz in the US). A two-pole motor at 60 Hz is 60 (hertz) x 60 seconds x 2 (pos and neg) = 7200/2 (poles) = 3600 at no load, down to 3450 under load. Hence why the next step down is 1725. TripleH - the 4 pole is the 1725.
  12. Ridgid are always metric, and the tools supplied with the planer are 4mm and a 8mm/10mm wrench. If you have those, you should be able get the head size fairly quickly. After that it will just be a matter of figuring out whether it is a coarse or fine thread.
  13. The varnish oil is a bit of a pita to apply as well. If I recall the FWW review correctly, it was compared to brush-on poly and the like. It isn't that. Takes a lot more work, you really have to work it into the wood.
  14. Arminius

    Tool Reconditioning

    Restoration of vintage tools
  15. Which finish do you mean? I have tried the 'Original', and the 'Varnish Oil'. I quite liked the varnish oil, though I would be curious how it would compare to a BLO/mineral spirits/varnish home brew. I struggled with the original T&T, but it is one I liked some elements of and would consider trying again for a traditional Shaker finish.