MarkN1975

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Posts posted by MarkN1975


  1. 19 hours ago, Mr. Mc Jones said:

    I actually started to charge a cover fee for an estimate in the end. That way if it costs a lot of time and effort to research, develop, design, provide samples and consult on a project to get the pricing info together, I didn’t work for free.

    Thats one way to seperate the tire kickers from actual customers.

    Let them know that you charge a design fee up front In the inital meeting.

    It will be added to the cost of the piece  when you recieve their deposit.

    I wouldnt charge repeat customers though. Especially if they referred clients to you.

     

    Thanks Mr. Mc Jones - Actually, I should clarify... I charge a cover fee up front for development etc but it comes out of the down payment if they place an order if that makes sense?


  2. Thanks to all of you. Much appreciated. These days I cover much of what it takes to go from inquiry to delivered product on my website. People seem to want to understand why it’s so much more expensive to have me build custom furniture than everyday retail offerings so I let them know and understand what it takes.

    Some aren’t interested and just want a price, others appreciate the transparency. Either way the information is there if they want to read it.

    I’ve learned not to be intimidated by price. Some buy some don’t but short changing myself to hear a yes gets me nowhere.

    I actually started to charge a cover fee for an estimate in the end. That way if it costs a lot of time and effort to research, develop, design, provide samples and consult on a project to get the pricing info together, I didn’t work for free.

    I’d value thoughts on that too.

    • Like 1

  3. When working with reclaimed barn wood for an outdoor project... (In this case a large business sign) do I apply a finish or not?

    I'm worried that leaving it bare might risk the sign cracking, warping etc over time.

    However, any finish I use to protect the wood from the Caligornia sun (in this case) will ruin the look...


  4. I drilled two holes in the sled base. No harm there, it isn't going to affect accuracy.

    Two screws in the wall and there you go. You mount it on the wall. The weight is on the base so won't affect the fence and the cross cut sled is out of the way.

    I'd be nervous of putting it in the floor or any other surface because of moisture differential.


  5. Hi everyone.

    I'm ready to invest in a sharpening system for my chisels and plane blades. I'm sure the answer to my question is that it's about personal preference but...

    I want to know that if you're a professional woodworker and looking for the best water stone sharpening system to give you the sharpest possible blade... Which water stones would you buy?

    I'm thinking, 250 grit, 1000 grit, 4000 grit and 8000 grit. But which ones, which manufacturer etc etc.


  6. Hi guys,

     

    I cut and planed 3 perfectly straight pieces of 3/4" plain cut walnut. I wanted to glue them together to make a small panel.

     

    I clamped & planed the edges in pairs to get a quality glue joint, I carefully glued and clamped them together using clamping cawls to match and correct any irregularities along the length as the glue dried and reduce any sanding needed.

     

    The day after, I went to make some cuts and noticed that the panel had cupped.

     

    Why did this happen?

     

    Is there any way to correct it so I can cut a straight miter along the length of the cup.?

     

    How do I stop this from happening again in future?

     

    Thanks in advance for any help.

     

    Mark.


  7. Who is setting the price for the piece ? You or them ,if it's you just mark it up higher to off set the difference. I think 70-30 would be fair.

    I tried but they set the price in their store based on what they think it will sell for. I wanted to price it (a live edge console table on black poplar legs) at $1200... They said they will price it at $995.


  8. How much of the sales price should I expect the retailer to keep if they sell my furniture?

    I'm being offered 60% to me and 40% to the retailer.

    I just got my first product into a small furniture gallery/store.

    I was expecting to get more for it than the deal they are offering me but I have nothing to go off.

    Any ideas?


  9. You're pricing up a job for a client. It's an existing customer you want to look after so price is important.

    It's a small but deceptively expensive item to make.

    Thing is, the client gets 1 piece of information to go off.

    The COST!

    You know that if they saw a transparent cost breakdown, they'd understand how you arrived at the price you came to.

    Do you send a transparent cost breakdown with the proposal or is that a line you don't cross?


  10. Hi all, I'm making a foam cushioned suede padding for a box.

    1/4" ply backing, spray adhesive to ply and 1/2" foam, bond them together, trim the edge of the foam to match the edge of the ply. Spray adhesive to foam and bond the suede to it.

    Here's where it gets tricky. I now need to tension the suede and wrap it over each edge and bond/staple it to the back of the board.

    The problem I'm having is that the suede seams to stretch unevenly, creating a rippled edge however I try. I'm using canvass pliers also and still getting the same problem.

    Surely there's a technique I'm missing.

    Any takers?


  11. Hi Everyone,

     

    I'm making 2 7'tall Oak Book Cases out of 2" x 2" sections and 3/4" shelving, see image for basic idea...

     

    The thing is... I need to use a Cerused/Limed effect without adding a stain first... I.e. Seal, sand, wire brush, liming wax, wipe, finish...

     

    Do any of you have any experience of doing this and if so, which Oak would you recommend?

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Kind Regards

     

    Mark.

    post-14994-0-39722300-1395947348_thumb.p


  12. I'm making some book cases out of white oak 2" x 2" and 3/4" shelving. The client is asking for a natural look ie un stained but with a cerused/lime finished look. So white amplification of the wood grain.

     

    I've tried to find out on line (youtube etc) but I'm struggling to find sufficient, simple first timer type information on the subject. Most of the stuff I've seen is stained a darker color first and then cerused.

     

    I need to know what to buy, what I'll need to do the job and a simple (idiot proof) step by step process to get a reliable result...

     

    Any takers???


  13. I'm starting out as a maker (everything from Claro Walnut live edge slab dining tables to cheese boards) for the first time in California. I moved from England a few months ago but I've worked with wood my whole life. Following in my grandfathers foot steps, it's a family thing...

    I'm not sure yet what's selling and what isn't so what would you guys recommend would be a small, simple, easy seller to get me out of the gate?

    Any experienced tips highly appreciated.