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About rgdaniel

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    Apprentice Poster

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    Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    boxes, small turning, outdoor furniture
  1. My "woodshop" app suggests eastern white pine and white oak (not QS) will both expand 5/32" across a 12" board if it goes from 10% to 50% humidity (like if it fell in the pool )
  2. Not sure I follow why that is... isn't it, either way, a matter of one board expanding in a different direction than the other? Mind you the front and back are narrower, so they'll expand a bit less. Is that what you meant?
  3. Yes, that's how I've currently got it sketched. Or rather, I have it as the front and back overhanging the sides, with side tenons going into front and back mortises. But I'll have to see what the vice versa looks like, good idea, thanks! But it sounds like everyone thinks the grain should all wrap around in the same direction. Okay, will give that serious consideration. Thanks all. (EDIT: okay, almost everyone! )
  4. Thanks (all) for the replies. That was my original idea. The reason I edged away from that (for now at least) was partly aesthetic, as I said (I like the look of grain running along the longer dimension of a board) but also partly because the sides will be fairly tall and I wanted to avoid gluing up a board to get that height. I can get 12" pine fairly easily but not sure QS oak in 12" width will be that easy to get here (still debating wood choice as well).
  5. Hi folks, I'm thinking of building a magazine rack, something broadly similar to the one in this picture: http://www.thedormyhouse.com/images/shop/magazine_holder.jpg Using solid wood. The grain would run horizontally along the sides, and vertically on the ends. (I think I landed there just for aesthetic reasons, although I also want some strength at the ends where the handle attaches, for supporting the weight when lifting, and I thought that lifting along the grain would be stronger). So my question is: Can I use tenons on the sides going into mortises in the ends (one long
  6. Quick question, if I may: I have a small burnisher from Lee Valley, it's only about an inch long, plus the handle. I was thinking I would like to get some of that sideways action that a full-length burnisher makes possible, to more effectively pull that burr over, which I think I saw somebody talking about, somewhere... I know you're not supposed to use a screwdriver (not hardened enough) but what about something like a turning tool, like a bowl gouge or spindle gouge? I already have those things, and the full size burnisher is like thirty bucks. Is the steel on a bowl gouge hard enough
  7. I am kind of known for over-thinking it... although the ultimate goal is to simplify the execution phase... the piece that failed was just something we had lying around the house since forever, not something I built.... I didn't consider pegging, because of the design... in a board where the design lends itself I might do (and have done) that... e.g. https://www.flickr.com/photos/rgdaniel/3820813653/
  8. You don't need an account to view Flickr pics. It's a picture of an actual breadboard. (Shaped like a pig, as it turns out). The joints will be about 12 inches across. I expect to glue about the middle third of that, to allow for expansion. But point taken about it sliding and spreading the glue further than intended. The original that I'm copying was a simple T&G (not pegged) and it failed, so I thought I would step up to the sliding dovetail. The one I did five years ago is still holding up fine, best of my knowledge (my sister has it). It was glued all the way across, I think. I was
  9. Thanks! I was also thinking table saw, potentially. My concern: is there likely to be a problem with the dovetail bit trying to cut two different sides of that groove at the same time, now that the center has been hogged out? Like, if the dovetail bit is not PERFECTLY centered in the groove, will there be unbalanced forces causing a dangerous situation? Or am I just being overly cautious?
  10. Hi folks, I'm thinking of recreating a breadboard we had lying around, which used tongue and groove breadboard ends. These eventually failed, and I wanted to rebuild it with sliding dovetails for better longevity. I actually did one already, several years ago, but that's a distant memory now and I thought I would explore what the best practice is before I dive in again... For the cuts across the ends of the main central part of the board, I thought I'd use a dovetail bit (duh), then cut the outsides of the end pieces with the same bit, sneaking up on the final fit. My question, is it
  11. DING DING DING We have a winner!! I had been doing some tests with other bits, but only in soft wood, so inconclusive. Got a new 7mm bit today and it sped through an acrylic blank like, well, like a brand new drill bit. So that's a good thing. Thanks to all who responded, I learned a few things. Cheers.
  12. I have done that from time to time... blame it on Woodsmithshop... ...
  13. That's helpful, thank you!
  14. Based on everything else you said, I guess I'm in the "totally mechanically inept" category... I guess I need to -a- try with other drill bits, then -b- call a guy. Sucks to be me, I guess.
  15. Hi folks, I have a Delta 17" drill press, floor standing, been solid and dependable for 5 years or so. Lately though I've started to notice what I guess you call runout. My 7mm pen blank holes are probably closer to 8mm, making gluing in the brass tubes problematic, for example. I'm not much of a machinist, just learning the minimum to maintain my machines as needed, but if there is anything simple-ish I can do to deal with this, I'd appreciate any tips.Thanks in advance! Bob.