Phil Lunsford

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About Phil Lunsford

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    SE Michigan
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  1. Are you interested in a trade? I have an 8" JD Wallace jointer on here, am close to Ann Arbor, and have been looking to upgrade my bandsaw, just need to clear up the floor space.
  2. Thanks. It's a great machine, I just needed longer beds. The old timers I work with call it a pattern makers jointer.
  3. Howdy. I recently bought a Powermatic 8" jointer and am getting rid of my old JD Wallace. It's clean, runs great, and has new knives. Built like a brick s**thouse. 40" bed, and has the skewed-knife cutter head. Asking $350 OBO. It was originally 3 phase but comes with a static converter and runs on 220.
  4. The grain runs lengthwise; maybe I can use this as an excuse to get that Domino I've had my eye on: "But honey, I need it to keep everything lined up and...and...all the cool kids have 'em!"
  5. Marco, I like the way you think! I considered the breadboard but wanted to avoid cutting into the top...but hearing it from someone else kind of confirms that it's not such a terrible idea. Could you elaborate on chamfering the end joint? Would you chamfer both pieces or just one side?
  6. Howdy! I've had a request to add on to an older (maybe 50 to 60 years-ish) table top. It's about 6/4, appears to be rift and quarter-sawn white oak and they want to add 4 inches of walnut all the way around. Any other table I'd have no problem but this thing is old and I'm sure rock-solid. I have a few ideas as to how to approach it, ranging from loose tenons to hidden bed bolt-type stuff, to leave it be and run. There's a slight roundover along the edges which I may have to plane/joint in order to get a smooth transition. Also, they want the side pieces to butt up against the end pieces, rather than mitering or anything like that. Obviously the less butchering of the top I have to do the better, so lap-jointing the pieces or anything like that is kind of suspect. Anyone have any experience with anything like this? Any novel approaches? Anyone think I'm crazy for even considering a project like this? Thanks, Phil
  7. The first time I did them was a little tricky, but the instructions that came with the Rockler shutter wizard thingy helped me put some things in perspective, although I didn't really follow it or use their whole system, just the pre-cut louvres and hidden arm. I used my Shopsmith as an overarm router and then squared the mortises up with chisels. 48 M&T joints all told! I see a Domino in my future sometime....
  8. Here's my second go at plantation shutters. The first set I did was for our bedroom; they turned out okay but I learned a lot about the process and these turned out soooo much better. The first set I used the control arm attached to the front, but opted for Rockler's hidden control arm hardware this time. Way easier. I also ordered their pre-cut basswood louvres which saved me a lot of time. The frames are mortise and tenoned 5/4 poplar with a mix of Minwax red oak and Varathane poly/cherry stain blend. The windows in the customers house had some pretty narrow sills, and of course were out of square, so it took some jimmying to get them to hang, but still didn't work out as perfectly as I'd like; they're a little tight. The finish picture is only the bathroom window; there was also a set in the kitchen that I haven't got a good picture of.
  9. It's pretty safe to say that I'll be stealing the live edge apron idea Out of curiosity, did you mortise and tenon those?
  10. Not sure if it'll have its own service or not yet. I need to talk to an electrician friend. That Grizzly planner is pretty slick! I was cutting out little scraps of graph paper for the tablesaw and whatnot! Definitely easier.
  11. It's basically a post and pier foundation and then stick built from there up. As far as electricity goes, I'd like to keep it flexible because I know I'll get antsy and move things in the future. A few things I'm considering are plugs on the floor, female 220 leads, or racetrack wiring along the walls. I know I'll need plenty of 220 V outlets, but I'm not sure yet if I'll need 3 phase or not. Speaking of 3 phase, is that something you have to wire up from the start, or will a 3 phase converter generally suffice?
  12. Hello everyone, I'm here fishing for some insight into the shop build process, literally from the ground up. I'm buying a bit of land next to my home (in town) and plan to build a 24'x40'-ish shop. I will be building it myself, with a little help from friends/family, and I only have limited framing experience (have only done interior wall framing when finishing my basement, wired it as well). It may have to do a little double duty storing lawn equipment, bikes and the like, but it will primarily be a shop. I woodwork in a semi-professional capacity (haven't quit the day job yet) making furniture, built-ins, etc, and would like to eventually get into cabinetry. So far, I'm planning to go with a wood foundation, kind of a modified post and beam set up. A few things I'm debating are: using 2x6 or 2x4 walls for framing (2x6 is appealing because of increased insulation and soundproofing capabilities, but 2x4's are cheap and plentiful); what method I should use to heat the place, as I am in Michigan and it tends to get a little chilly; overhead vs. carriage doors (again, insulation vs. ease of use); and anything else that may pop up or need consideration as I'm sure I'm overlooking some things. Anyone with experience in this area, your input would be greatly appreciated. Also, any good resources that helped you in this situation. Thanks!
  13. Ho-lee cow! I could make some $!