martym

Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by martym

  1. Nice work. There is some thing special about milling drying and taking it to a finished piece. This hobby Is a VERY deep rabbit hole. Now get out and plant some trees for your grand kids to enjoy.
  2. martym

    Ash

    I have milled several dozen Ash logs that died from the Emerald Ash borer. In my experience even the most heavily munched on trees only have damage in the first half inch of sap wood. I would paint the ends of all those branches. If it were me I would just have it milled into slabs. The way it is laying looks pretty close to how I would want it. Get the largest crotch parallel to the blade so you split it down the middle. That will give you some very nice figure to play with. Veneer for book marking or some nice blanks for turning. Get the bark off it before you put it up to dry. Sticker it about every 10 to 12 inches. I haven't had much problems with splitting or checking. Maybe an inch or so on the ends. Bigger problems have been around the pith and some around a few of the larger crotches I have milled. The Emerald Ash borer moves out when the sap stops flowing. I air dry under a tarp for 4 to 6 months then in my garage another 4 to 6 months. That gets me in the 10 to 12 percent range. I know some one will chime in and say that is far to wet to work. In my experience I haven't had any major problems. The problems I have had showed up in the milling stage. Finding stress in a board while ripping it to size ect ect. Once milled to finished size I have found Ash to be very stable, and its a joy to work with. Just my 2 cents.
  3. In my opinion you will need more ground clearance. At least 18 inches. You will at some point in the buildings lifespan need to get under there to work. Update electrical, dust collection, or just pest control.
  4. Well thank you sir. Hours of my life I will never get back.
  5. I am in the planing stages of a Secretary desk build and looking for ideas. I don't care much for the drop front support hardware that attaches to the top writing surface. I would prefer to have drawer style supports under the the writing surface. In my opinion it gives a cleaner look while achieving a more solid surface. After much searching I have seen a few examples of antique desks that use the motion of the opening top to extend the drawer style supports below. Google hasn't been any help. Does anyone know of a source? I could make my own if I have to, I am open to ideas.
  6. To clarify. Milling my own lumber reduces my waist but increases my waste. Thanks for the spell check guys, where were you when I needed you.
  7. This thread is a classic example of why I love woodworking. There are as many answers to the original question as there are woodworkers. And all of them have merit depending on need, priority's and perspective. I have been butchering wood for as long as I can remember, something like 50 years. About 10 years ago I started milling my own wood. That completely changed how I see, use and value wood. Woodworking is a VERY deep rabbit hole. Money has always been a major obstacle as it relates to my hobby. When I was buying lumber for a project I would try and buy what I needed with a 20% cushion for waste. Like Eric suggests I bought from a local Hardwood source, kiln dried and milled to a close proximity of my intended use. They supply a quality product that is harvested and processed with the mass consumer in mind. That does reduce the amount of work I needed to do and it also reduces the amount of "waste" I had. From a ease of use and space efficient point of view this is great right! From a artistic point of view that method just isn't practical for me. Because I am a cheep skate I would buy what I need plus the waste. Then carefully measure out parts and cuts to get the most for my money with the least amount of " waste". Again, great right? Now what if instead of buying just what I need for that same project I have a pile of lumber large enough that I don't mind pulling out a 8 ft long board just to cut out a 2 ft piece from the middle of the board for the perfect color and grain pattern for a given piece. Knowing that the "waist" can be used for other things. But more importantly I am chasing that perfect look. If I am taking the time to do the best possible job I am currently capable of than I don't want to try to save a few bucks or board ft. Waist is all Perspective whether money material's or time. As for air or kiln dried either way is fine as long as it is done well. As far as I know the killing of said creepy crawlies is the only big difference. To me that only matters if I wanted to use "wormwood" in a project. Other wise I would be inspecting each piece as I mill it down for checks splits loose knots and bug holes all of which get cut out anyway. The milling process also greatly improved my ability to read the grain patterns of a board and have a better idea of how and why a board will want to move. To answer the original question. Waist is a matter of opinion as stated before. It is your money and time.Spend it as you see fit.
  8. The smell of the smoke will leave no doubt in your mind if it is treated. I find most wood smoke rather pleasant, some more than others. Walnut, Cedar, Hickory, and a few others remind me of incense. While Elm, Willow, Cottonwood have a dirty smell. Treated wood smells like like what IT IS a chemical fire. As for the softwood vs hardwood debate. Its a silly argument. Proper seasoning of the wood along with proper operation and maintenance of the stove / fire place and flue and they are very safe. As for heating with wood being dirty and messy I cant argue that. But if you look at the big picture, all of our heating sources are dirty. Tell the folks around any strip mining operation that coal is a clean energy. Or the folks in Arkansas and Oklahoma that fracking for natural gas is a clean heat source. Sorry for the rant.
  9. Got some reading to do. Thanks for the help guys!
  10. You guys are quick! Thanks for the response. The cedar is eastern red. 12 quarter thick 6-12 inches wide 4 ft long. I have 9 boards. It ranges from flat, rift to quater sawn its the cleanest stuff I have ever seen! A few small knots near the pith edge 1/2 to 3/4 inch size. All from the same tree so the grain and colour all match. I get wood just talking about it. A local guy milled it special order for a pool cue turner. The jerk low balled him on the price and the guy that milled it told him where to go. The soft maple came from a tree just down the block from me. It had a burl that was every bit of 3 ft across and 6 ft tall. The city came to cut it down and I convinced them to leave me the part of the trunk with the burl. I dont think mill is the correct term for what I did to that beautiful freak of nature. I was new to chain saws and a cheep SOB. Lucky for me it was so big that even with all my hacking I still managed to get some pretty stuff. The 3 layer home made ply sounds like it might be my choice. Call me a snob if you like,but just knowing that there is mdf in the hope chest I am making for my 1st grand daughter makes me wanna throw up. So if I go with 1/8th inch maple burl and 1/4inch cedar on the out sides of the ply. What would be the better choice for the center piece. I have plenty of walnut that has more sap wood than I would care to use on any thing other than shop cabinets. Or I could use the 2 pieces of cedar that are flat sawn and have a lot of sap wood, still very clean and straight grain but flat sawn so less stable. What would be the glue of choice? Thanks again guys.
  11. I am kicking around some ideas for a hope chest made of walnut styles and rails with highly figured maple panels. I milled the maple about 15 years ago,and it has been air drying in my shop for the last 14 years. Moisture content varies from 6% to around 12% depending on the season. My question is could I resaw the maple into 1/8 inch veneer and glue it to 1/2 inch cedar? I do have some very clean straight grained cedar that should make for a fairly stable sub strait. I have done some research on the web but with some what conflicting answers. The panels will end up around 10"x 12". Has any one tried some thing similar?