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About 21meyer

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  1. I have also had positive interaction with the Lee Valley customer service department in the past but wanted to share my most recent exchange. About three years ago I was working on a project that required odd or in-between sized brad point bits that I did not own at the time. I decided that I might as well purchase a nice set that would last me a long time as a hobbyist and the Veritas 28 piece HSS set fit the bill so I went with them. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago and a project called for a size from the set that I had not yet used. This is when I noticed that I had received two duplicate sizes within the set. Obviously, I should have checked each bit when I received the set but have never had this issue before and hindsight is always 20/20. I sent an email to Lee Valley customer service on New Year’s Day and received a response first thing January 2nd. The response included an apology and that they would be shipping me the two correct sizes at no charge. They also asked that I keep the two incorrect sizes. The new bits arrived a couple days ago as promised. I understand it’s only about $15 worth of tooling but even the little things can keep customers happy. The Lee Valley free shipping promotions have cost me a good chunk of change over the years but I will continue doing business with them because they have always been a pleasure to deal with.
  2. I built that lift several years ago and you really don't need the plans. It is going to depend on your specific router and the video linked above does a pretty good job of explaining the build. I purchased a commercial lift when I upgraded my router so I no longer have the homemade lift. It worked well for the time that I was using it. If I remember correctly, they use a higher threads per inch threaded rod than the readily available standard. I purchased mine through Fastenal and as you would expect, it was more expensive. After using the lift for a while, I found it unnecessary because my router bit height adjustments are always relative and it really didn't save me any time knowing that one revolution was exactly 1/16" in adjustment. Some may find this very useful but my typical workflow is to sneak up on depth anyway.
  3. 21meyer

    Push Blocks

    I have been using these floats for a couple years and they are great. I have five or six of them for the jointer, router table, and at the band saw they are handy to push stock against the fence before the blade during a resaw. All of mine still have the original handle which works fine but I will eventually get around to replacing with wood for reasons mentioned above. I still use the Grippers that I've had forever at the SawStop. The Grippers will always have a spot in my shop for certain tasks, but in my experience the floats grip the stock better. I have push sticks for narrow rips (both John Heisz and Matthias Wandel versions) but if I have space between the blade and fence I prefer to use the float or Gripper.
  4. I have a couple of the dial type indicators and they work well. Both of them came with the stand in your lower left picture. I find the stand cumbersome and very rarely use it. It's very easy to customize a jig for whatever you will be using it for. The blade to miter slot parallel jig (saw gauge) in your pictures is nice but can be made out of scraps fairly quickly and accurately.
  5. According to the email I received, they are going to retail at $1199.
  6. Supermax is releasing a 16-32 model but I have not checked to see the footprint. I have the 19-38 and am happy with it but it does take up a fair amount of floor space especially if you don't build a cabinet stand. http://www.supermaxtools.com/products/wood/16-32-drum-sander-71632/
  7. I think you will receive quite a few responses that will deem it unnecessary. Personally, I use mine every time I plane. Even though it is accurate enough to use for final dimensioning, I rarely use it that way. Everything is relative to the current project. My planer has anti-kickback fingers that grab the wood as soon as I start to feed. It is a pain to try to set the height by eye because of these fingers. I work with very rough stock of varying thickness and the DRO saves me a lot of time setting the initial height of my planer along with subsequent passes. The planer is the only machine I use this on and have no plans to add it to my drum sander, table saw, jointer, etc.
  8. Yeah, if I remember correctly, we have the same Steel City bench top model. I have been very happy with it but have run into several instances recently where I need more quill travel and distance vertically.
  9. I have a few of them as well but I agree with Eric. You can get pretty fancy with how sturdy you build them but I have learned that for me, I want more levels with less height capacity. It is such a pain to dig through a bunch of layers if the board you want is on the bottom. The 2x4 with electrical conduit that Jay Bates uses is plenty strong for the height levels that I prefer.
  10. Shane, just curious if you ever pulled the trigger on this DP - or any other forum member for that matter? If so, what are your thoughts? The online reviews are very limited. I see it is now on sale at several different vendors. Thanks, Cody
  11. Ah, now I see it. Thanks for the explanation.
  12. Looks great man. The match looks like you nailed it. It's a little tough to tell in the pictures but did you mount the hinges directly to the newel? If so, what is your plan when the gate is no longer needed?
  13. 21meyer

    Miter Saws

    I use the jig saw to break down rough lumber. It is much safer if your lumber is warped or twisted. I have a nice miter saw for furniture and a beater miter saw for DIY that lives in a storage shed. The miter saw for furniture cuts is a debate for many. If all you are wanting to do is rough cuts, I would buy something used from Craigslist. I bought a decent quality Delta (DIY saw) 5+ years ago for $40 and it still cuts fine.
  14. I have the 16" Jet planer (3HP) that I purchased used with straight knives. Before that I owned the DW735. I upgraded the Jet to the Byrd shelix head almost immediately after purchase, they are expensive but worth the money in my opinion. Having never swapped a cutter head out before, it took me several hours accompanied with some swearing. I know you are looking at 4" more capacity but I have never bogged mine down before with only 3HP.
  15. If you have the space, which it seems like you do if you are adding an MFT, do not even consider a bench top jointer. Keep checking your local market for a used floor standing model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk