Ronn W

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Ronn W last won the day on March 11

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About Ronn W

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  • Location
    Eden Prairie, MN
  • Woodworking Interests
    Any - Every project includes a new technique. Started with mission and arts and crafts projects but am expanding. Also enjoy inlay work, scroll work and veneering. Have done sofa, coffee, end and dining tables and music boxes.

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  1. I agree with the above with this ad ded thought. I have seen fine old pices of furniture where, if you lok at the right angle wyou can wee that the surface was finished with a plane and scraper, This is not to say that you need to settle for visible plane ro scraper marks if you don't want them but in this age of machine made everything, sometimes we forget that surfaces way back when were less that perfect. Some inor imperfections say that " this was handmade."
  2. Those are llooking good. When I do such things I clamp the tenon board to the mortise board such that the end of the tenon board cover about half of the tenons and then scribe marks for the tenons by place an exacto knife against the inside face of the tenon and making a deep scribe mark (nick) on the corner of the tenon board. Then use a square to extend the lines with a scribe (exacto knife) as needed. Even then I cut conservatively and then pare to the scribe lines. Test fitting as I go. Be sure to mark which side of the board is up.
  3. Both of those woods have a farly coarse texture so you may want to use some grain filler like Timber Mate to get a texture that is suitable for a desk top. Pick a color that matches the deepest part of the zebra wood grain and, if appropriate a different color for the wenge. This stuff is easy to apply with a plastic credit card and since you will be sanding back to bare wood the only remaining filler will be in the deep parts of the grain. Try it on a sample board first. If it were my desk, I would do about 2 coats of timbermate to get it smooth and then 2 coats of shellac (Zinsler uni
  4. So that is your reflection? Welcome to the forum.
  5. Fr ripping a narrow cut. I have ripped down to 1/4" and1/8" with the 1/8" leg (sold speparately). At some point while making a narrow rip cut, you will, cut and forget to slap the gripper tight to the fence and end up cutting the leg of the gripper ( it cuts like butter) so be prepared to by an additional leg or 2 eventually. I like mine.
  6. I haven't used them for shellac but thanks for the great offer.
  7. Love to play poker but not willing to risk local card room with Covid. Keep the pics coming.
  8. Pocket screws with Kreg jigs are deisgn so that the screw exits the drilled piece of plywood at the center of its thickness. This give the best connection. From what you describe you should be just about dead center. I assue that the 1/32" that you are describing is the distance from the tip of the screw to the edge of the second (undrilled) piece. I think that if youcame out the of first piece daed center that the 1/32" should not be a problem.
  9. Ronn W


    I have a dial caliper that is graduated in 1/64" increments (no decimals). I can easily read 1/2 or even 1/4 the way between the marks but seldom do I need to be that accurate. Hell, 1/4 of 1/64 is (grabbing calulator) about .004". Good enuff.
  10. Y Yes. and the one 12 V cordless that I have will not hold a charge long enought to slap together a 4' x 8" plywood table. I have very little experience with cordless but it seems that they are more expensive in the long run and weigh more because of the battery (I want light weight).
  11. I did not see anything about how thick the stuff can be. I like it.
  12. Good idea esthetically. If you put the plywood between the bottoms of the trusses, you wil have to nail some continuous blocking (2x4's) the booth sides of each truss so that you have something to nail the plywood to. That's a lot of 2x4's. I notice that here are some digonal boards overlappin the bottom members of the trusses. You will have to notch the plywood around them. BTW. Why 3/4" plywood. Unless you plan to hang heavy stuff from it, 1/2" should do fine. Good luck.
  13. My old Craftsman drill (with a chord) just died. It was light and, at 3 amps, powerful enough for dilling wood holes and driving screws. What I have found on line are all more powerful - usually 7 to 8 amps. I bought one and its too heavy and too powerful to be able to drive a long phillips head screws without slipping. I am looking for suggestions for a lower powered chorded drill. Any ideas???
  14. NOthing to do with woodworking unless you count the table I have to build. Used switches (8 of them, additonal track and a lot of wiring supplies. I am resurrecting my old O gauge trains to pass on to my Grandson. The locomotive in pic is a 1935 Lionel. Also have a 1950 twin diesel. Hope to start building the table for the layout later this week.
  15. I like the rasp idea for the bulk of the work and then switch to a spoke shave and hand chisel. Take your time and watch the grain direction.