Ronn W

I agree with Chestnut on the card scraper. But in case you don't have a sharp card scraper. Did your pigtails occur with 100 grit or with 120 grit? If they are still there after multiple passes with 120 grit, then 120 grit will keep making more pigtails as it removes the old ones. Try moving up to 150 grit, I have found that it takes more sanding on burl and crotch wood to remove previous sanding scratches than on flat cut or QS wood. Sanding will always scratch burl and crotch wood. You remove the scratches with the next finer grit unitl you get fine enough that you can no longer see the scratches. You may need to take the sanding beyond 220 grit to get the results you want. If I am looking for a realy smooth gloss finish I prefer to hand sand. I did an experiment on once on a piece of burl. Handsanded with 120 grit north-south, then 150 grit E-W, then 180 grit NW-SE, thenn 220 grit SW-NE. Then put a couple of coats of gloss finish down to accentuate and any scratches. All of the scratches were N-S (120 grit. ) I had not sanded enough with the 150. I tried again and it took about 2x as much sanding with 150 as I did the first time to remove the 120 scratches.

No comment on so many levels.

You gotta do what you gotta and you did it well.

Very nicely done. I like it.

This is way over my head. Think I'll go back to my shop with my transistor radio.

You say that you are interested in more hand tool work. Especially with chisel work where you are hitting the chisel with a mallet downward on the bench, a solid surface is much better that a flexible surface so the energy of the mallet all goes into cutting the wood. You may want to consider solid blocking in that portion of the benchtop where you will be working on you dovetails and other joinery. I would make a solid wood top.

Garage floor is done. Larraine is delighted. Therefore I am delighted. We will start moving light stuff back into the garage this afternoon and the cars can go back in tomorrow night.

Give tha man a cigar ----Bingo. Problem resolved. It was quite hot that day and the resin container was left in the sun too long (unmixed). After checking with the manufacturuer, he was back yesterday. Kept the product out of the Sun and mixed smaller batches. The combination of product being too warm, large batches and the fact the chemical reaction is exothermic created the problem. Got the first coat down yesterday along with the sprinkles. Clear coat goes on today.

We are having our 30 year old garage floor coated with a poly-urea coating with flakes in it. The guy doing the work is careful and particular. I am impressed with his work so far. Floor has been ground, cracks and spalling have been patched and he started to put the coating down just as I came home from some errands last night. He informed me that something was wrong with the 2 part mix. That it was setting up so fast that he could not spread it and broadcast the flakes fast enough. He is not new to this product and has not had this problem before. He will be contacting his supplier to figure out what the problem is. Hope this gets worked out. AAARRGH!

Could you use a steel dowel??

That's a nice project. As for the drawing part of it. Start by drawing full size front, back and side views on some kraft paper. No need to worry about scaled down drawings or dealing with the frustration of learning Sketch up while you want to concentrate on you project. Pencil and a couple of plastic drafting traingles ( one 45 deg and one 30/60 deg) is all you really need. Good luck.

Yes it acts like both a pore filler and sanding sealer. I applies it after a coat os shellac as sealer so I do't know how well it acutually penetrates pores. Very little sanding between coats - I used 400 grit. It sands like butter and the fine white dust can clog your sandpaper - keep shop vac handy. It does not level as well as and epoxy so you will have little ridges hear and there from your spreader. It cures with UV rays so if you are using a rag on a turned piece it will not harden on the lathe and I am not sure what the result would look like. Have the impression that the filler is not really hard enough to protect the wood from abuse and because it sands so easily I don't think that it is very abrasion resistant. Keep in mind that I have only used it once - on apple wood veneer. I know that shellac can be used as a finish and I have heard that products like ARS will work. For sure you could use shellac and then ARS. Solarez has other products that can be used as finishes but I have no experience with them

In my limited experience, Solarez is thin enough that it will tend to level itself. Since your applicator will be riding on the higher parts of the wood surface, I think that the resin will fill up to that level. So I don't think that it will do what you are asking. I will be using it mostly for boxes or wall hangings with high gloss finish and for deks top to get smooth writing surface. Tree slayer posted a pic of the spiral veneer project that I made - it has one coat of Solarez sanded to 400 grit.

I wish I could describe the precess in writing but it is not straightforward. Pattern is made with thin veneer. Each little piece straddles the border between heart wood and sap wood. You start in he middle creating the curved boundary between heart and sap and work around the spiral using a piece fo clear accetate witht eh pattern draw on it for alignment. Eventually you get to a point where you new pices start to overlap you existing pieces - that's a problem, so you start making a separate piece and splice the pieces together like maquetry. I hope that made sense - not easy to explain. Check out this video by instructor Scott Grove.

Check this product out. I have been looking for a filler that doaes not shrink much and dries clear. This one fits the bill. https://www.solarez.com/product/i-cant-believe-its-not-lacquer-g-copy/ This is a one part resin that is 100% solids. No shrinkage. Just a few drops will easily cover one square foot. Spread it around with squeegee or credit card. A little goes and very long way. ( will vary with depth of grain) It cures with UV light. You can buy a special flashlight for indoor work or just your piece in direct sunlight. Full cure takes less than 5 minutes. Really a time saver. On a cloudly day it took 40 minutes to cure. Sands wonderfully. If you go with 2 or 3 applications it's a piece of cake to get a dead flat surface. It is not a final finish but really gives you a nice surface for finishing. Shellac can be used under or on top if desired. I use shellac to pop the grain and then used this to fill the grain.