Ronn W

I am gointo get a full report from you after you get back. I was too late to get inot any of his classes this year - realliy wnat to next year.

Looking good. I like it.

Keep it comimg. I like it.

Any oil based wiping varnish will be compatible just sand the surface with 320 or 400 grit before and between coats.

+1 on the piano hinge

I have one plane....very organized.

If you follew the iron with a piece of 3/4" Melamine (actully, plain mdf would work, too) - I mean right behind the iron. IT will act as a heat sink and cool the glue right away so that any stress in the veneer will not be able to creat gaps. You have no holding power intil the glue is cool. I assemble veneer with the show side down using blue tape and the side that will be hidden. When I am satisfied I flip the show side up and apply the veneer tape. If you wnat to go a (optional) step farther you can then go back to the blue tape side, remove the tape and rub glue into the joints with something like the round,smooth handle of an old screwdriver. You can rub pretty hard. this will not only glue the 2 pieces of veneer together but the moisture from this glue will tend to expand the wood on each side of a joint and help close any tiny gaps. Then put blue tape over the joint while the glue is stil wet and leave unitl the glue dries. Finally remove the blue tap and your ready. I use this optional step as added insurance when book matching to make my joints invisible. I have found the a $20 clothes steamer is great for removing the veneeer tape. Just don't over do it. Good luck.

Ok, don't leave it alone. Nicely done. I like it.

Arm-R-Seal wipe on with a rag is my finish of choice. Mostly because if there are any vertical surfaces I don't have to worry about sags or runs. I do apply it with a sponge brush on table tops when I want to build the thickness a little. I use MInwax fast dry poly varnish for those very few projects like wall hangings or table tops where I want to buld up enough finish so that there is no more texture to the surface. I use a foam brush or natraul bristle brush for these.

Honestly, when I look at the first picture it looks bad. When I step back (second picture) I have to wonder if it isn't best to just leave it. If you really decide to do something I'd go with the sliver of matching wood. I feel your pain.

Nicley done. You will get years of service out of that bench. Be proud.

Raised beds help when your garden is where huge lilac bushes used to be........

Great project. I like it. My 6 year old grandson just had a jump in his attetion span so that he can drill more than one hole on teh drill press and still be interested. I asked him if he wnated to drill more holes and make a pencil holder, Yeah! grabbed a small chunk of 8/4 maple. I held the combo square while he swiped the pencil along it to locate 8 holes. Had to help a little to advance the drill bit with the deep holes but he stuck to it and then I let him paint it. Not sure why he chose pink. About 30 minutes. It's starting to be fun.

I'll add one other idea in addition to proper setup and a really sharp blade. I use a bevel up plane with a 50 degree bevel angle for final smothing. Total cutting angle = 12 + 50 = 62 degrees. Yeah, it is harder to push but for smoothing you are taking very thin cuts. I get no tear out.

You're good to go. I have 2 rules: 1) Every proejct has to include a new skill to learn and 2) every project has to have an opportunity to buy a new toy........and you will have plenty of both. Watch videos, read magazines, make sawdust and hove fun.