Ronn W

My only thoughts are questions: 1) Did you let the shellac dry completely before coating with poly? 2) Are you using thin coats of poly (not to thick) and allowing evenough time between coats? Other than those thoughts I will leave it to more experience members to brainstorm this one for you. Ggod luck.

Really appreciate the feedback. I found the "build-your -saw" page on the Sawstop website - Nice. Installed the repaired arbor in my saw and it sounds and runs like new - for now. Now I just have to wait and see how long my temporary arbor repair lasts.

It's a long story that involves a damaged arbor and no replacment part and a tempraroy fix, but I may be in the market for a new table saw in the next year or so. The Laguna saw that I have has a 36" rip capacity. The only other saw that I found with a 36" rip capcity is a Baileigh. All others seem to be 30" or 52". 30" is not enough for kitchen cabinets and I do not have room for 52". And I don't have a track saw. So here comes the question........Can the fence rails on (for example) a PM1000 be moved to the right one hole to extend the fence rails to the right? (I never use the fence on the left side).

+ one on Tiebond glue with t he added thought that if you are gluing the edge of a piece of MDF, I would spread a alyer of glue on and allow it to get almost but not quite dry before applying the final glue and assembling. I have found that this will prevent the second glue application from just being sucked into the edge of the mdf rhater than staying in the joint where you want it. Same trick works for me on solid wood end grain.

Nicely done. I like it.

I suppose, like any other new technology, it will take a while for the price to come down and for it to filter into the part of the market where most of us live.

Very nice work. I like a box that has a surprise or pint of interest and the round holes in the lid line grabbed me. Nice work. I like it. I know a wood worker that made a dovetail chisel like you did only he took one of his Lie Neilson chisels to the grinder.

WElcome to the forum. Sorry that it had to be under these circumstances.

Is that per 100 bf?

Good idea. Hope it works well for you. I don't do that much large or multiple surfaces glue-ups.

Here's a couple of pics of the spalted hackberry... Correction - it's $9.50 /BF.

I think your onto something. We need new sharpie colors, walnut, oak, cherry, spalted maple...........

I agree with the above conversations re: up and down. I use a whiteside 1/2" up cut bit with a 2" cutting length. That monster router is the one I have and, while you can take deep cuts with that and a spiral bit, I always take a series of shallow cuts. That router has one fixed and 2 adjustable plunge stops so you can preset for three depths of passes if you want to. The mechansim in the Triton routers that allows you to switch from normal to Plunge with the push of a buttton may need to be dissassembled and cleaned (sawdust) every couple of years (your results may vary). More likely if used in a table. Enjoy you new toy.

Nicely done. Should great a lot of use for years to come. I like it.

So I check him out and ended up watchingall the installments of his oxbow chest. Lots of good info.