Ronn W

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Everything posted by Ronn W

  1. Your teasing my curiosity. More to come, I hope.
  2. I thought that I had patience and focus, but Wow. Beautiful work. I like it.
  3. Great suggestions. Thanks. I have used tiny pieces to fill holes in both burl and straight grain. I do this from the back side after the veneer tape has been applied to the show side. It works very well. But there comes a point where the little piece that broke off the pointed end or corner of one of the veneer pieces is just too small for that method but still large enough that the finish won't fill it in. So I will try your ideas. Thanks for letting me bounce this off you all (ya'll?) For those intersted, here is a better descrption of how I put little pieces in from the back side. Since the veneer tape is on the front side over the little hole, l fip the work over and insert the little patch piece from the back side. Then apply a liberal amount PVA glue and use a very smooth butt end of a chisel or screwdriver to work the wood on each side of the patch towards the patch. At this point the wood is swelling from the moisture in the glue and the swelling will actually decrease the size of the hole around the patch. Then cover the patch and the arae around it where you smeared the glue with blue tape and let it dry. Remove tape before gluing to substrate. You can use this approach on a joint (full length) to make your joints really disappear. ----With the show side down bend the veneer at the joint (the veneer tape will act as a hinge) just enough to put a bead of glue along the entire length of the joint. Lay it flat again and rub the joint with the but end of a screwdrive. You can use a fair amount of pressure. Be sure the the wood on each side of the joint gets wet with glue. If you have a part of the joint where you can actually see a slight gap, you can score the veneer on each side of the joint before adding the glue. This will cause the veneer to swell even more and close the gap. Cover the entire joint with blue tape and let dry.
  4. I did a test on some burl. Yes, it smoothed the surface nicely to the touch. I am putting some finish on it to see how it looks when finished. The next a part of the problem is to do something about the fact that I can see the substrate and/or veneer glue through some of the larger holes. So i have to figure out how to change the color of what I see. I could dye the subtrate with transtint - but will the veneer glue (PVA) still work properly? Can I add dye to the epoxy? if so, what type of dye? Try to push a little Timber Mate fille in the hole before the epoxy? Use a felt tip pen or a pencil to darken the bottom of the hole?
  5. Wait a minute. Hold the bus! Bird houses are great fun but I have never seen a bird nest with a roof on it. So if your roof takes 2 boards and a little water get in at the jointm I don't thin the birds will mind. If they complain just lower the rent.
  6. Update. I bought some Devon 5 minute clear epoxy. It comes with a long mixing nozzle which leaves a lot of epoxy wasted inside the nozzle and the bottle really is q uite small. so I leaft the mixing nozzle off and I Could still squeeze out equal parts of resin and hardner. Mixed it on a piece of white paper and applied it to a practice piece (pics at the top of this tread) that already had several coats of ARS on it. It took about 4 ours to harden. As desired, it did not shrink. When I tried to sand it down it let go from the finish. Actually I found that I could snap the bubble of epoxy off with my fingernail. I guess I should not be surprised. OK so I learned that it does not work on top of a finish. I just now glued and clamped a piece of burl veneer to a piece of plywood and, when that is ready, I will try the epoxy on bare wood.
  7. It's on my shopping list. Thanks.
  8. I have no good ideas, so after a few glasses of wine, I will suggest the following. Do what ever you hvae to to level the finish and raiese veneer on the existing top. Remove the shaped edge with track saw and/ or flush trim bit (watch out for nails. Add a 1/2" plywood top with coutersunk screws that you can plug and sand. Band the edges with 3/4" material and route a new edge profile. Then cut 1/2" off the bottoms of the legs to keep the height the same. Sand and paint. Did the wine help?
  9. The attached picuture is a practice veneer piece. The goal for this finish ( ARS) is a high gloss smooth surface. But you can wee in the pics that the wood surface has som little holes that 7 coats of ARS app;ied with a sponge brush would not fill. I am looking for a filler that will dry clear. A colored filler is not acceptable because, while this pattern is all one species, it could be contrasting colors and the holes tne to be at the intersection of the pieces. I have tried Aqua Coat - it shrink so much that it does little more that the ARS. I could try epoxy but since I only need one drop per hole I would have a lot of waste. Don't know how small of a batch of epoxy one can mix a still get the proportions right. I Also tried thick super glue - A little more fill but still would take lots applications. I guess I am looking for something like a putty that will dry clear. Anyone have any ideas or products that might work?? Thanks.
  10. Nicely done. I have done some string and berrry withthat tool. I also use a dremel with a 1/32" or 1/16" bit. I like it.
  11. Amourseal wiping varnish is a good water resisitant finish. I use it one kitchen tables. But about the temperature ---- I would give General Finishes a call and even then I would make a test pieces and see what happens.
  12. I have done a little Kumiko. It's quiet afternoon and it can really add a lot to a project. Later -------OK. so I just watched the video. I had no Idea. Magnificent.
  13. I have done a little Kumiko. It's quiet afternoon and it can really add a lot to a project.
  14. Larraine bought first shoulder plane for me.. Woodriver medium. Got it tuned up and will need to use it this week.
  15. You do not mention what tools you are planning to use to make the mortise and tenons. Laout would be different if done by hnad thatn if using, say, a router for the mortises. In general, If you wnat the tenon piece (like a table apron) to be flush with the mortised piece ( like a table leg) you would wnat to alyour out the joint from the face that is to be flush. Do the mortise first so that you can make adjustments to to the tenons as required. There is no reason that the mortise or t the tenon must be centered on either piece. I try to get my tenons centered if I can because with power tools its easier that way. If your pieces don't match the plan thickness - no problem - make a full scale drawing and work it out with your new dimension. Iven when I desigm my own projects the dimensions on my drawings seldom survive unchanged for very long. You can do it.
  16. I wonder if my wife will by that argument??
  17. The closer the better. I would estimate that 20 ft would be about your limit to be effective. WIth a 1 3/4 HP unit at that distance. Be sure that you install blast gates in your system so that you can draw from just one machine at a time. Keep elbows and flex duct to a minimum.
  18. Ronn W

    New Shop

    I am sooooo jealous already. YOu are going to have a great time building your shop.
  19. FYi, When I was a practicing structural engineer, It was about 1993 that I had a slow business period and decided to investigate posssible cadd programs. I found Auto cadd to be cumbersom with a very steep learning curve and very expensive. I chose a $700 program called General Cadd and used it for over 20 years - no regrets. Don't know your age but I grew up with and spent a large part of my career at a drafting table. I still love to draw by hand. So - use the drafting board. I will share a couple of books with you. 1) Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hayton has lots of exploded views of furniture and give you a good idea of the joinery although is is not really a "how to" book. 2) American Furniture (The Federal Period) by Charles F. Montgomery. This is not a how to book either but has a lot of historical information about Federal Furniture. Buy it used since it a large volume that could easily be at home on your coffee table. Start with simple Federal pieces ( federal period pieces can be very simple or more ornate). Do not be afraid to work from your own ideas. Here is a simple example. Here is a more elaborate example. While I like the federal style, I don't let it confine me to a particular "look". If I like my design, that 's good enough for me. Good luck - contact me any time.
  20. Drew, I would be willing to help you load and unload in exchange for being able to by a few boards now and then for more than they cost you. I just don't have any storage space.