Ronn W

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Everything posted by Ronn W

  1. I agree that Narex is a good chisel and reasonbly priced. I have a couple. My favorites are LieNielson chisels but they are not cheap.
  2. I thought wood working was gender nuetral.
  3. Absolutely. I cut a 1/8" deep grove x 1/4" wide all around each leg with the table saw. I milled a board to 1/4" thick to fit in the grove, rounded off the edge with a 1/4" round router bit and ripped it off the board to be 1/4" + 1/8" = 3/8" wide. Then just cut the four peices to go around each leg - used a shooting board for the miters. Held each piece in place with tape while the glue dried. Thank you all for the kind words. I am thinking about trying to make a floor lamp to sit beside reading chair but, so far, have not come up with a design the I like (No lathe in the shop). Anyone have any design sketches or ideas for me?
  4. I should have done a journal on this one but I get involved and forget. Anyway, this is my latest project. The detail work to at least as much time as the desk itself. I know that a couple of us have made shameless plugs for Marc Adadsm school of Woodworking and this deak is another. The design of the desk, joinery techniques, stringing and oval inlay, strining and finishing (sort of) were all the result of the school. The carving is a result of Mary May's online school. I think is all starting to come together. Desk is walnut 9Oh, my God - the price of walnut up here). Desk is 24" x 48" x 30" high. Joinery includes dovetail at each end of the front top rail to the legs, doulbe mortise and tenons for the face frame joints and dominoes for the side and back rails to the legs and between the pieces that make up the top. I use power tools to hog out the dovetails and mortises and pair to the scrib elines with chisels. The sides and back are frame and panel use 1/4" walnut veneer plywood (actually turned out to be just over 3/16) Tray for keyboard in place of center drawer. Not really a federal style feature but that's what was required. Legs were grroved to look like columns with base and cap of 1/4" half rounds in 1/8" grooves. Bottoms of 1 5/8" square legs are tapered 4 sides to 3/4" square. Cockbeading on drawers was new for me. top and bottm cock bead on each drawer cover the entire top ( or bottom) face edge while the side cock beading is much narrower so as not to cover up the dovetails. Carvings are a simple bracket design. Thank you Mary May. Top and vertical edges are mortised and tenoned to the frame to add stiffness. String and oval and bell flowers are mad of holly. The oval is 12 pieces of holly veneer cut out of a rectangle shape, sand shaded and then re-assembled and glued to 1/8" bacltic birch. Then I cut the final oval shape and applied the Holly border. Next I used double stick tape to hole it in place while I scribed around the oval. Finally routed it out and glued it in place String in the top for decoration. Stringin is 1/32" wide. I used a dremel tool with edge guide or circle cutting jig to make 1/32" wide x 1/16" deep grooves. Finish is Satin ARS over 2 coats of shellac. The body of the desk has 2 coats rag applied and the top has 5 coats applied with sponge brush and a lot of sanding in between coats to get the surface grain filled enough to be a decent writing surface That's about it. Thanks for reading.
  5. Looks great. I have made a couple of chess boards recently - used veneer. Used basically the same approach that you used for cutting and assembly to get nice squares.
  6. IMO the best joint would be a good fitting sliding dovetail.
  7. Ronn W

    Hijack!

    Dave and I had a great visit and a wonderful lunch. So good to see you again. My wife thanks you again for the spurtles. She loves them.
  8. I you have somw thin scrap material, you could put it under your 1/4" plywood, cut them at the same time - no tearout. Good luck.
  9. Best wishes on a speedy recovery.
  10. That's some good looking cherry. Good luck.
  11. I have led replacements for flourescent b ulbs in my shop (daylight) Those lights darken cherry in hurry.
  12. Fascinating. I wonder if the mystery tool is a hinge mortise jig of some kind.
  13. Wonderful choice of the curly maple. NIcely done.
  14. THis is going to be a great build......I like it.
  15. I have played with the idea of writing a little but really don' t know how to start. Maybe engineeering brain won't let me wirte anything down until I know where ti is going.
  16. @ treeslayer mentioned hobbies in another post so "Why not? What other intersts do you have now or have had I the past?? No need to limit the topic to just "hobbies" In chronological order I have been very involved over the years in: Recrerational softball (lost my swing and could not hit a thing), long distance bicycling (knees started to hurt), competitive table tennis (rotator cuff went bad), dog agility (dogs got too old), wood working (a work in progress but it doesn't bother my knees or shoulder), Maintaining lionel trains that I gave to my grandson - there's always something to fix. How about you?
  17. Well done. I hdd not heard of coleman lamp collectors. I learned something. Thanks.
  18. We played mumbly peg 50 years ago. That's when it was Ok for a kid to carry a pocket knife.
  19. It's 28" tall at the request of the client. I think 30 is fine. Very thin coats, just a couple of swipe and move on. If you put too much on the rag just wipe faster so that it looks like you are wiping it all off. You are just sealing the wood, not building a finish. Using shellac as a final finish is a different ball game. I have done finish coats with a brush but am not familiar with "hake". There is a drawer on the opposite side, also on the right for shess pieces. Dog agility - directing your dog through an obstacle course with jumps and tunnels, etc. If you have never seen it., Just google it. It's great fun - a lot of training but worth it. Keeps you young. I competed with my dogs for about 10 years until they got too old. Then we just ran for fun. Lots of videos on line.
  20. I used 1 3/4" . This is a combination of a chess board that I have. (Squares a little too big for my peices). And an on line search for square sizes commonly used depending on the sizes of the pieces. Are you planning to use veneer? or make it like one might make and end grain cutting board?
  21. This was a build for my dog agility instructor. Somehow over the years, The chess table that had been in her family got lost or stolen. She asked if I could make one for her and she wnated her parents initials in the top of the table. In the following pics t he chess squares are 1/42" carelian birch and walnut on Baltic birch plywood The frame is solid walnut. The playing surface is 16 x 16" and the table is 26" square overall. Frame is glued to the border with the addition of 3 dominoes along each side. I changed the domino depth setting just a bit beween drilling the boards and drilling the frame so that the framewould be ever so slightly proud of the board. So I could sand the frame downe to meet the thin veneer. I wanted to do as little sanding on the veneer as possible. The frames's miter joinery is a little differnet. A couple of typical dominoes along each miter was my first thought unitl I realized that the dominoes sticking out would not allow installation of the 4th side of the frame. After a discussion with @RichardA ( thank you Rick ) I decided to cut a long, shallow mortise using the domoino machine into each border piece and use 2 dominoes end to end and sideways in the mortise. This allowed enough clearance to insert the 4th side of the frame whil keeping the accuracy of domino alignment. The side apron stringing is 1/32" wide and about 1/16" deep basswood. legs and apron are finished with 2 coats of dewaxed shellac (rag applied) and 3 coats of Satin ARS - rag applied. The tophas 2 coasts of shellac and several coats of GF water based poly. I used a brush for the poly and got brush marks. I snade them out and tried a sponge applicator got spnge applicator marks. Resanded. Many thanks to @Pkinneb who graciously agreed to spray the top with my remaining poly. Turned out great. About the initials. A friend of mine that I met at a veneering class about 3 years ago has become very good and Marquetry. He offered to cut the walnut initials into little carelian birch rectangles and did a great job. I cut the rectangles to size and routed and glued them into the top. I have a very happy client and again thanks to those who helped.
  22. 1. Your long side stretchers could be a little highr if you wnat a little more room (height) under the table. You lonly need about 1/2" of wood between the botom of you dovetails and top of the mortises. 2. Are you planning a shelf on top of the bottom stretchers? If so I would lower the short end stretchers a little so that the bottom of the short end stretchers are at the level fo the shelf to help contain items on the shelf. 3. On my bench I glued ledgers on the long rains for my shelf (loose 1/4's) to rest on. 4. I agree that you could get rid of the dovetails - try a simple saddle joint. %. Consder adding a little over hang on the other end so that you can clamp things to the bench. Nothing worse that not being able clamp something down when the need arises.