Ronn W

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Everything posted by Ronn W

  1. The desires of the client often get in the way of aesthetics. Very nicley done and very attractive. BTW, when I use bottom drawer glides and use 2 per drawer - makes the drawers very stable.
  2. I consider an edge break or easing to mean, "Get rid of the sharp edge". Sandpaper only.
  3. They must be hiding witht he 2 packs of table 8's that I bought and can't find.
  4. I always enjoy your posts and your talent. Nicely done, sir.
  5. I like to apply shellac (Zinsler Universal Sanding sealer) to the bear wood and then sand lightly with 400 Grit. Most times I appy 2 coats and sand each coat. Then apply whatever finish I want. The shellac dries fast so I can put on the 2 coats, sand and apply the first finish coat in the same day. With the shellac I find that I can apply 1 less coat of the final finish because the wood is already sealed. Also, the shellac will help with the contrast (pop) of the grain. Waterborne finishes don't do that so well.
  6. WIth a sharp bit with guide bearing I think that 1/8" round over should not present any problems. Keep the RPM's up and don't move the router too fast.
  7. Solution. Use the wood for BBQ and fine another for the bench.
  8. Yes ,as short as I dared. That's my method, too. Ok, I now have a straight board ( It took 4 passes and on the joiner with hand planing in between) and the desk top is glued up and flat. Just under 3/4" thick. Started with 5/4. Filling a knot with epoxy (first time I've done that). It's about ready for sanding and then finishing.
  9. Welcome, Sylvia. I am not a turner but hope you find your answer.
  10. Could that be glue from the laminating process? I do not have a fix in my repetoire (sp)?
  11. OK, so I should have been more picky when I bought this board. This will be one of 4 boards that will make up my wife's desktop. The boards is aobut 8" wide and I have a 6" joiner. So I decided to make one shallow pass on the jointer with the bow up. I did not push down on the center of the board. The joiner only made contact for about 8' one each end of the board. so I have 2" wide part of the board that did not sit on the joiner bed that has to be removed before continuing - Hand plane. Hard maple with some erratic grain. I had to do much of the planing accross the grain to prevent tearout. With the 2" wide "ledge" gone it's back to the joiner. This time it cut for about 16" on each end of the board. Once agin with the #7. It looks like it will take at least 2 more repetitions to get the board to the point where The cut is almost full length and I can put it on a sled and send it thru the planer. I started with 5/4 so I am still hoping that I will have 3/4" when I'm done. Please share with me a better way to do this if you have one. OK. I done complaining now.
  12. Happy Mother's Day.
  13. I have always enjoyed this forum and have learned a lot from the members. I check it every day. I will try to do my part and increase my contributions which have lagged in the past weeks.
  14. Yeah, 1/16 consistant thickness requires a thicknessing tool. They can be bought or made. I think I have some notes on making one somewhere. Another way is to use a triple thickness of 1/42" commmercial veneer = .0714" = approx 1/16". I know that it looks like it would be too thick but I have done that successfully with dyed colored veneer from Woodcraft. ( Their veneer is not very long ) You don't need to glue the 3 pieces together. Just insert all 3 at the same time. Try a white in between 2 black strips. Message me if you want sketches on making a thicknesser and I will look for my notes - no limit to length with this tool.
  15. Drew. I usually cut the stringing so that after inserting the stringing in a 1/16" grove the string is only 1/32 to 1/16" proud. I use a block plane if the grain cooperates and then a card scraper then sanding (320 grit) if needed. If the grain does not cooperate i just use the card scraper at an angle to the grain of the stringing. Note: I have only worked with stringing that is 1/32" ro 1/16" wide. Looks great. Good work.
  16. (2 saw horses in driveway + 1 scrap plywood surface + 1 rattle can) / wind speed = Spray station.
  17. Position the wood on the stop - turn it on - position the hands - push - pull - hit the big red button and wait til it stops. One thing about 8 year olds - they are capable of suddenly doing something you had not anticipated for no apparent reason. Gotta watch 'em. If they hesitate with a screw driver in their hand, let them figure it out. If they hesitate with a power tool, say something right away. He really enjoyed his shop time.
  18. In my nicer piedes of furniture, I don't use a stop to prevent the drawer from pulling out.
  19. No woodworking yesterday. Put some screws in the picket fence where pickets were loose. Maybe one more year and then the cedar fence will need replacing after 12 years. Hung Larraines birdhouses. Will make 2 more this afternoon with grandson. Sharpened some plane blades and chisels. Sanded the work bench top and put a coat of BLO on it to repell whatever spills on it.
  20. I remove the waste between the pins by making a series of quick cuts from the end of the board almost to the base line with the band saw - makes the rest easy to remove with a chisel.
  21. Wonderfully done, Drew. I really like the slightly recessed drawers.
  22. I really like timermate but you will not know the real color until after staining and finishing. Do a test piece. Good luck. I have slao had good luck adding dye to timbermate.
  23. For fluch front drawers I glue one or two blocks to the rail under the drawer so the drawer front hits them. Alternatlely I clue blocks to the rail guides at the back of the drawer if I have enough room back there.