Ronn W

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Posts posted by Ronn W

  1. On 5/19/2022 at 12:03 PM, treeslayer said:

    I wanted the drawers to be big enough to hold my wife’s stuff

    The desires of the client often get in the way of aesthetics.  Very nicley done and very attractive.  BTW, when I use bottom drawer glides and use 2 per drawer - makes the drawers very stable.

    • Like 1
  2. On 5/9/2022 at 6:14 PM, treeslayer said:

    Yeah it’s just you Drew ;), you didn’t run across the tube of cut off discs for my Dremmel tool did you ? Been looking for them for a year, I even bought new ones thinking they would show up but even that didn’t work 

    They must be hiding witht he 2 packs of table 8's that I bought and can't find.

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  3. On 5/10/2022 at 10:22 PM, Jar944 said:

    Did you cut it to rough length first?

    Yes ,as short as I dared.

     

    On 5/10/2022 at 6:49 PM, Drbwwing said:

    Jointing boards wider than your planer trick- Rip some ply 6” and set the board on it with the “ledge” hanging off and sent it through your planer.  Flip and plan off the lip.

    That's my method, too.

    Ok, I now have a straight board ( It took 4 passes and on the joiner with hand planing in between) and the desk top is glued up and flat.  Just under 3/4" thick. Started with 5/4.  Filling a knot with epoxy (first time I've done that).  It's about ready for sanding and then finishing.

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  4. OK, so I should have been more picky when I bought this board.  This will be one of 4 boards that will make up my wife's desktop.  The boards is aobut 8" wide and I have a 6" joiner. So I decided to make one shallow pass on the jointer with the bow up.  I did not push down on the center of the board.  The joiner only made contact for about 8' one each end of the board. so I have 2" wide part of the board that did not sit on the joiner bed that has to be removed before continuing - Hand plane.  Hard maple with some erratic grain. I had to do much of the planing accross the grain to prevent tearout.  With the 2" wide "ledge" gone it's back to the joiner.  This time it cut for about 16" on each end of the board.  Once agin with the #7.  It looks like it will take at least 2 more repetitions to get the board to the point where The cut is almost full length and I can put it on a sled and send it thru the planer.  I started with 5/4 so I am still hoping that I will have 3/4" when I'm done.    Please share with me a better way to do this if you have one.

    OK. I done complaining now.

  5. On 5/4/2022 at 12:09 PM, drzaius said:

    I was also shocked at how high the particle count can get, yet still see no dust in the air. Sweeping is definitely the worst activity for dust. I've taken to using the vacuum rather than the broom.

    +1

  6. On 4/27/2022 at 1:10 PM, Chestnut said:

    The process was effective and leaves me wanting to try some 1/16" string inlay. I have the bit already but processing the inlay material down that thin may be tricky. I'll have to do some research. I suppose a drum sander sled would accomplish it pretty easily.

    Yeah, 1/16 consistant thickness requires a thicknessing tool.  They can be bought or made. I think I have some notes on making one somewhere.  Another way is to use a triple thickness of 1/42" commmercial veneer = .0714" = approx 1/16".  I know that it looks like it would be too thick but I have done that successfully with dyed colored veneer from Woodcraft.  ( Their veneer is not very long ) You don't need to glue the 3 pieces together.  Just insert all 3 at the same time.  Try a white in between 2 black strips.  Message me if you want sketches on making a thicknesser and I will look for my notes - no limit to length with this tool.

    • Like 2
  7. On 4/27/2022 at 9:35 AM, Chestnut said:

    left it about 1/16" proud and used the router to remove the rest. Some sanding is required to make everything perfectly flat but that didn't take long with 120 grit.

    Drew.  I usually cut the stringing so that after inserting the stringing in a 1/16" grove the string is only 1/32 to 1/16" proud.   I use a block plane if the grain cooperates and then a card scraper then sanding (320 grit) if needed.  If the grain does not cooperate i just use the card scraper at an angle to the grain of the stringing.  Note:  I have only worked with stringing that is 1/32" ro 1/16" wide.   Looks great.  Good work.

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  8. On 4/3/2022 at 1:55 PM, Hammer5573 said:

    Sorry guys...I mis phrased the question. The question is how you limit the drawer from pulling completely out of the cabinet? In the past I've used a small, narrow piece of wood screwed to the inside back of the drawer which can be rotated upward to stop against the outer drawer blade as I pulled the drawer out; however, I can't use this type on my latest project. 

    In my nicer piedes of furniture, I don't use a stop to prevent the drawer from pulling out.

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  9. I remove the waste between the pins by making a series of quick cuts from the end of the board almost to the base line with the band saw - makes the rest easy to remove with a chisel.

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