Ronn W

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Everything posted by Ronn W

  1. I did not use a plan. I like to do my own designs starting with rough sketches then, when I thought I was getting close I looked at images on the internet to fine tune my ideas. I use a CADD program left over from my Engineering days (not sketch-up) to work out the proportions and joinery. It's basically just and electronic penciI, nothing fancy. I am fortunate to have the ability to print the profiles at full size ( or any other scale) to use to make leg templates but I could have drawn the profiles by hand on paper and cut them out. When it comes to Bill of materials or cut list, I use the CADD program to copy each piece of the project onto the outline of the boards that I plan to by ( like 8" wide by 96" long). That works until get to the lumber yard and have to adjust for waste, knots, etc. The one thing I I tend not to do is buld a model of my projects. Iknow that I should to help with the aesthetics of the design, I just don't.
  2. Thank you all so much for your support and comments. I will share some random thoughts......Probably nothing new to you experienced woodworkers but maybe food for thought if you are less experienced. 1. While there is a lot of conversation and emphasis put on joinery, when you get to projects that are not squares or rectangle or projects with embelishments, the bulk of you time is not on the joinery but on the embelishments. So being able to layout and execute joinery well means that you can spend more time on making the piece special. So learn the joinery well. 2. I tend to make my own designs which means that when my design creates a problem to solve, I am basically on my own to solve it. That, in the long run, is a good thing. When you successfully solve the problem and it works, it is a good feeling. Don't be afraid to try something new even if you can't find a You tube video to help you. Sometimes I feel like I am reinventing the wheel. But unless I were making a period reproduction, there is more than one way to make a piece. 3. When you are not sure how to do it or if it will work take some scrap and practice. I made 4 full sized practice legs before starting on the real thing. 4. Every piece of furniture has a critical point or line in the layout that just has to be accurate. The other lengths and lines reference from there. Find out what the critical part of your layout is, you will thank yourself later. The cabriole legs and aprons for this table are a good example. The critical line is the bottom of the apron which has to be exactly in line with where the curve of the leg meets the vertical top part of the leg and that line must go all the way around the table. I can plane the top of the aprons if necessary. The overall dimensions can vary a little. I can play with the length of the legs if a really have to but that crirical line could not be adjusted after assembly. Enuff rambling.
  3. It appears that your aprons are acutally bearing on the legs rather than attaching to the sides of the legs - good choice for large loads
  4. Thank you all for your response to my post about wood movment for thsi table. You will see that I wnt with the option the created a gap in the frame around the top. This should eliminate the potential problems for movement. I built this table to be used as a place to show my Pennsylvania Spa\ice Cabinet. The most difficult part of the project is coming to an agreement with my wife and where to put it. Somewhat complicated by the presence of a Christmas tree. Here are some pics. Table is African Mahogany. My first project iwth this species - I like working with it. Merry Christmas to all.
  5. Very nice first project. I have always had 2 rules to follow in my woodworking career. (1) Every project should teach you a new skill and (2) Every project should give you the excuse to buy an other tool. Good luck.
  6. I never would have thought of using the patch as a feature. I'll put that in my hip pocket and hope that I don't have to use it someday. Looks good.
  7. Yeah, I have been noticing that about a lot of things. I have decided to use option 3 with less of a gap than in the sketch to minimize the visible end grain of the table top. Thanks, all.
  8. I am bout to glue up the top for a 26" x 12" table. I am using African Mahogany purchase from cabinet shop (good stuff) The end grain on a board laid flat on the workbench is straight upa nd down (quarter sawn or may be even rift cut. I was planing to border the top with a shaped moulding similar to what one would see around the edges of a Queen Anne tes table. (mitered at the corners) Then it occured to me that I could have movement problems witht he mouldings at the ends of the table. I think I have 3 options. 1. Just build it and and hope that 12" of rift cut mahogany won't move enough to noticably cause problem at the miters. It is my understanding that this Species is quite stable to begin with and rift cut is even better. 2. Glue the front 3" of the moulding on the ends and pin nail near the back corners to allow movement and let the back miters move. 3. Design the moulding so that there is an intentional 1" or so gap in the moulding in the middle of the 12" long moulding on each end of the table. See sketch. How would you do it?
  9. So, do you glue 1 corner at a time? LI can picture gluing all 4 corners at the somae time only if the " assista are juts the right size.
  10. It's a good unit for a home wood working shop. Blades are easy to change and each blade has 2 cutting edges, one for now and one when its time to change. Keep the rollers clean with menral spirits. When its comes to Dust collection, remember that it has its own powerful fan that expells the chips. Enjoy.
  11. Cut out the brackets that go along side the cabriole legs. Had to cut the curvy profile in 1 1/2" mahogany - used the scroll saw. Slow going but worked well. Going to visit in-laws tomorrow. Back in the shop on Monday. Will be time to do final smoothing on the cabriole legs and start assembly. I have become very good friends with my spokeshaves making these legs.
  12. Inthe past I have just in cluded a note in the box telling them what I want. If there are any problems or if my note is unclearthey will call. YOu can always call and ask what information is most helpful to them. When the baldes were new the cut is superb so I figure that it will be superb again if I have them sharpen it. So far I have not been dissapointed. I believe that they check for warping and and any other defects that could affect the blade's perfromance.
  13. I am sure that you will. Add a new skilll to your abilities with every project and if you are unsure about how to do a task - ask and then practice it a few times before trying it on the "good wood".
  14. LI am a fan of forest blades. I have 2 and have sent them to Forrest for sharpening twice. IF I sned them both togeterh I save on shipping and since i can get at least couple more sharpenings of of them the life time cost is less than you would think. Then again I haven't done the math.
  15. Very cool. And a belated "congratulations".
  16. I had to readjust my saw top to my blade recently after some repair work and found that my sleds were no longer 90 degress to my blade - damn. Rather than build a new sled in the middle of making a simple mitered corner box, I squared up some scrap and started making test cuts - 4 pieces that sould fit togther to make a perfect square. Took me 4 tries to get it perfect. So take your time setting up your miters and yes, sleds and jigs are the way to go for reapeatable results. Come to thin of it, I could probably have made a new sled in the time that I took for 4 tires foe this box.
  17. No special effort on the edges of the venner other than to be sure there was a nice coating of glue all the way to the edges. I figured that these drawers will not get the abuse that desk drawers might get. For desk drawers and for the table taht I am going to make to display this cabinet, I like to install cock beading around the drawer.s Cockbeading does not go well with some types of furniture but I tend to like Federal syle so it fits right in. Thank you all for your kind comments.
  18. I know that I haven't been very active on the forum lately but I have been in the shop. Here are a few pics of my completed project. And a hidden compartment. Next Project will be a table to set it on. Think I will incorporate Cabriole legs - something new each project. I'll try to look in on you guys more often.
  19. I have a Wood river #5 and a Veritas bevel up with 2 different bevelled blades. Both will do the job if set up properly but the Veritas is the better plane. I especially like the fact that I can change the bevel (blade) for tricky grains.
  20. I have the Leigh RTJ400. True, there is no variable spacing but I found it to be a good jig.
  21. I agree that Narex is a good chisel and reasonbly priced. I have a couple. My favorites are LieNielson chisels but they are not cheap.
  22. I thought wood working was gender nuetral.
  23. Absolutely. I cut a 1/8" deep grove x 1/4" wide all around each leg with the table saw. I milled a board to 1/4" thick to fit in the grove, rounded off the edge with a 1/4" round router bit and ripped it off the board to be 1/4" + 1/8" = 3/8" wide. Then just cut the four peices to go around each leg - used a shooting board for the miters. Held each piece in place with tape while the glue dried. Thank you all for the kind words. I am thinking about trying to make a floor lamp to sit beside reading chair but, so far, have not come up with a design the I like (No lathe in the shop). Anyone have any design sketches or ideas for me?