Ronn W

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Everything posted by Ronn W

  1. I start with the longest, easiest wall first. That helps me insure that I get a good line. The key is to measure across the room and then divide the width of the boards into that number and see how wide the last board will be. You don't want to end up with a strip that is much under 2" wide. I have also found that saving the doorway or the transition to a hallway for last is easier. About the hearth. Maybe you could create your own edge piece and then fill the gap between the jagged stone and your edge piece with concrete. The edge piece I am thinking about would be about 1/4" to 1/2" thinker than your flooring with a rabbet so your flooring slides into (under) the rabbet. You can still allow for movement. I made pieces like that for transitions to carpeting because the stock transitions looked so cheap.
  2. I agree with Brendon and drzaius about the explosion hazard. I have a relatively simple set up with 4" runs and I used home depot round metal duct (inexpensive) and PVC fittings from Wood craft put together with pop rivets and/or good duct tape. Works OK. Be sure to support the line on each side of each blast gate it they are the plastic gates because if the line flexes it can affect the gate operation.
  3. I would consider thicker top and if that is not feasible, 1 to 1 1/2" edging. I am concerned that the top might sag a little depending on the weight what you put on the top. The pic of the lower apron looks good. Think of the apron as having being only as deep as it is in the center of the span, The extra height at the ends it basically for looks. Just use a good sized tenon into the legs. The weakest part of the apron is at the center of its span but looks like you have enough depth there. Without an apron under the top, you are depending on the bottom apron and the legs to form a frame to keep the piece stable. The top won't help much. My gut feel is that your proportions will be OK but I would consider making a front frame mock-up out of some scrap and try to rack it to see if you think it is stiff enough.
  4. Thanks, Highlander you just answered a question/problem that I have experienced and I didn't even ask the question.
  5. I had good luck on a coffee table with the general finishes high performance applies with a sponge brush - 3 coats with light sanding between. Nice stuff.
  6. Ronn W

    Outfeed 1.0

    I gotta make one of those. What brand of twine did you use?
  7. .003 bow is not acceptable for me. I and that problem once. I did not get any satisfaction from the sharpening shop so I took my business elsewhere.
  8. Every project needs to have something new that I haven't done before. This time it is a veneer box with 1/4" square edge banding. I am using bubinga waterfall veneer and probably clear maple on the corners. Similar construction to Marc's humidor. If the project goes really well I want to to finish it with a gloss finish and give it my granddaughter What are some of your favorite high gloss finish systems for this type of project?? Of course if things don't go so well I will use a satin finish and store extra wood screws in it.
  9. I agree with gee-dub. If the knives are not in the same plane as your table - adjust the knives. I like knives .002 higher than table.
  10. I learned the the hardway. made a coffee table that had 4 pieces glued together for the top. I put a frame around it without allowing for movement. It cracked and the mitered frame corners became misaligned from the pressure.
  11. I had a Ridgid (Home Depot) folding contractor saw for several years. It is a low end saw (anything in the $500 range is) but once I got it set up and adjusted it served me well even for my nicer projects. It was a good "first table saw" for me. After a while, when you want to upgrade, you can easily sell it for $250 to $300 on Craigs list.
  12. Bed adjustment is the key but I also find that a little bit of upward pressure (just enough to take the weight off of the outfeed bed) on the leading end of the piece as teh last few inches are being cut eliminates any snipe on the trailing end most of the time.
  13. I general I would say you are right. The one difference that I can see is that the table saw blade does not make a clean of a cut as a router bit unless you have blade that has square teeth or a good quality dado blade. I generally need to do a little clean up with a chisel if I use the table saw. You generally want to take small passes with a router. so, for larger joints you might consider cut the bulk of the material with the table saw or band saw and then shave the last little bit with the router.
  14. I have a Triton TRA001 table mounted and I like it. The height adjustment can get fussy but that is just a matter of cleaning out the sawdust to allow the gearing to work properly. When you mount it, play around with the positioning so that the lock, height adjustment and switch are all easy to reach. It does not bother me at all to open the door and reach under to lock it or flip the switch off to change bits. I really like the automatic arbor lock for changing bits. A great source of customer support, parts and even sales for Triton and other brands of routers is Larry Rhodes at Market Hardware in North Carolina, 828-317-1669.
  15. I have a Laguna 10" Fusion saw. 36" rip capacity. If has been a good saw for the money. Laguna support is excellent - Actually it is awesome. My main reason for choosing the Laguna was that other saws seems to have either 30" or 54" rip capacity. I did not have room for 54" and 30" was not enough for cabinet work. I have been happy with it. Do get a zero clearance insert though. The standard insert is too flexible.
  16. Aha, I see where you are going. Horizontal mounted spindle at least as long as the drawer is deep. The spindle, in addition to spinning down would have to actually move up and down by the thickness of the material (or the materail would have to raised and lower. I bet it's the latter - probably a foot pedal (this was pre-electricity). I just did a brief online search and could not find any photos or drawings or detailed description of how Knapp's machine was built. There is only one drawing of the overall machine which appears one several sites. I will look again when I have some time. If we make this tread long enough we will have it designed.
  17. I think I see what you are thinking but that would be a huge bit. I have seen bits that do beaded table edges but this one would have to be the depth of the drawer. I think you have identified the toughest part of duplicating this joint - the points where the curves meet on the drawer sides - very sharp interior corners. No wonder he had to invent a machine to do it.
  18. Here is another pic that I found. The pins appear to be part of the drawer front, not separate dowels. I will try to attached a pic that show this and also a pic of the original Knapp machine.
  19. I have been keeping my pieces of white oak that are at least 1" x 1" x any length. I have this idea that it might be fun to make a scale model of an appalachian log cabin. I find the TV series "Log Cabin Builders" very interesting. Is this weird?
  20. Thanks for your responses. I have continued to look on line and, while I have found similar joints and jigs for similar joints, none have the scalloped look of a real Knapp Joint, where the wood between the semi circles meet in a point. See pic of antique drawer attached.
  21. Thanks bradpotts, Expensive toy but very cool.
  22. While visiting relatives last month I was admiring a slant front secretary desk and noticed amazing drawer joinery where I expected to see dovetails. I have since learned that the piece was made using Knapp Joints and that these date to the late 1800s' and that Knapp invented the machine to make them. My question is, "Does any one use these joints today?" Has anyone seen a jig that would allow these joints to be made without the Knapp machine or CNC machine? No big deal. Just curious.
  23. I bought a Laguna 10" Fusion cabinet saw with 36" rip capability. Good saw in your price range.