s1nglemalt

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About s1nglemalt

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  • Woodworking Interests
    rockers, tables, live edge

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  1. OK, thank you. I may build this with fiberglass as a simpler male mold. This really has not much to do with woodworking, but I am not very dialed into the "coral chair veneer vacuum press" forums.
  2. Trigger alert for not classical woodworking post. This is a modern chair build with curves and built to look like coral. The coral chair. No dovetails here, just wiggle wood or fiberglass to shape like a curved chair. This question is for vacuum press folks. Would you make the male mold then cut out the hole with a router / hand saw once it is built? Or would you make a form that somehow has "warts" or whatever that would be the holes around which you would wrap the veneer or fiberglass? This is a collaboration with a non-profit arts center. This is not my design or wheelhouse, but I think this is a cool concept.
  3. Does anyone have min/max dimensions for the "leaves" hardware that comes out of a Dutch pull out table? These leaves / leafs are stored under the outside edges of a rectangular table, and you lift the top a little then the tapered hinges come out from below and lock in the leaf now flush with the top of the table. I am going to make them on each side. Does anyone know the formula required for the tapered part? This guy has a write up on this here - https://dblaney.wordpress.com/2014/10/04/draw-leaf-tables-dutch-pull-outs-too-more-about-how-they-work/ There are some good photos on here, but before I work on the trials of how long to make the arms and how deep to make the notches, have you done this? Dutch pull out drop leaf table
  4. @K Cooper I think the Domino strength comparisons have been exhausted off thread. I am no Festoolio, but I have confidence in them to support a barrel among 8 Dominos on the lower aprons (2 per joint). @wdwerker The barrel is not moving. It will be screwed into the lower aprons. Gravity will force some staves to lower a bit at the top of it, since there is nothing holding them on the rear metal band. I could screw them in each individually, but will add the lattice work from the inside to accomplish them same as well as hold the wine.
  5. Thanks for the link. That web app is far less complicated than Hoadley's Bible. I went up to 2222 before the app switched to "Borderline". Unless people will store depleted uranium I do not think there is anything dense enough to even get the barrel load to 200 lbs. As far as keeping the staves in place, I will build a lattice system that pushes against the barrel staves that also will hold the bottom of the wine bottles.
  6. The steel does continuously cover the barrel in three areas, in front of the front apron, right behind the front, then also on the back apron. I could screw it to the apron on top, but it would only be from barrel and not metal. The back could be metal. Would you also screw from barrel to bottom aprons?
  7. I would like to determine whether I need additional support legs for a wine barrel wine bottle holder. The top third of a wine barrel (minus 12 3.5" holes) weighs around 39.5 lbs. A bottle of wine weighs ~3 lbs, so the double Dominoed walnut 4/4 thick 5" tall 35" long lower aprons support around max 76 lbs. The aprons are band sawed on the quarter grain to rest the barrel easier, so you see the long grain curves to match the barrel. Hoadley's famous book "Understanding Wood" chapter 4 gets very detailed about compression and bend, related to beams, planks, and joists. Bottom line: would you add one or two small middle feet attached to the barrel to help with load? If I used two I would screw them into the two lower aprons in the middle from behind. If I used one I would possibly screw it from the barrel down. Before you dive right into college engineering, what would you do based on the photo? P = 1/k * (theta) b d (2)/l b= 1 d=5 l=35 k=1.5 (from his book, not my calculation) What do you think? Will this loaded up 80 lb barrel and bottles break my American black walnut 4/4 aprons / joists?
  8. I should have written that I will have an external staircase coming from our lawn. Not easy to back a truck up and haul slabs from the driveway - front - side thus my request for driver way to barn door help. I could lift large slabs from a truck through the fence then up the stairs, but I simply am lazy and would prefer to have mechanical advantages. No need for any internal stairwell.
  9. Thanks for your input, and allow me to clarify a bit more. I want the ground floor to be two cars in the two-car garage. This probably means nothing internal from below, but that is a great idea. The current footprint is 23' x 23', and I cannot expand easily. A "regular" architect gets very wary about barn hoists, and quickly reverts back to something such as, "I am going to need a structural engineer and s/he will need to come with me to the county". Something like a material lift on CL is a great call - portable and requires no thought from an architect. The upstairs shop will have a full bath and can be staged as a studio apartment. It will be a typical shop, though, for woodworking. I will have many more questions as this project comes alive for ventilation and ductwork.
  10. There will be a 2nd story shop above a working two-car garage. I do not want to build a complex in-shop hoist system. I am looking for ideas that will get tools and slabs externally (outside) to a dormer that will be around 8' or 9' above ground level. Dormer will be at least 6' wide to allow big things to get in. How do I get them up? I am suburbia so I cannot justify a forklift or other cool ideas. Mobile mast system? Mobile boom? Got economical and not super sketchy ideas?
  11. Not to show any favoritism to any vendor, but...is this the best option? http://www.rockler.com/blum-95-clip-on-blind-corner-hinges
  12. I need help on a hinge that so far has stumped me and the local specialty hardware store: a hinge that will allow a hidden tv to push open a "drawer" around 40" wide by 6-8" deep. It will hinge from the back so you do not see the wood when TV is up. So far, a piano hinge will not work due to visibility. I searched for TV Lift and found nothing. This should not be hard for this board. What ideas do you have? The hinge needs to be strong to hold the wood but "weak" enough that a slow moving tv mount will push it up; gravity will push it down as it falls on cleats to remain flush. More ideas on the attached photo. Please help.
  13. Thanks. I looked at the Brusso idea, and if I did not have the 1.75" overlay on the top and bottom of the door, I would be all over this. The template Brusso gives you assumes you are flush, and it is not modifiable to offset. What do you think about this? http://www.rockler.com/simplex-concealed-hinge-black Do you think it could work?
  14. I need pivot hinge or knife hinge help from you. I am building three cabinets 14"x15" (5/4 thick) with the goal to make as little reveal as possible. They are in a row and can open in any direction, but I would prefer (from L to R) R to L L to R L to R There will be no vertical posts for me to attach hardware, and I want it as sleek as possible. My initial idea is a simple center hinge. Would this work? http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/product/cenh/243H32.html This Rockler idea seems too easy. Have you used them? Would they work on a thicker door? My primitive drawing is attached for reference. I am sure I will have to cut out some of the drawer wood for collision avoidance.
  15. Thanks. I think I will take the suggested dado and TS route. Much simpler.