W1ngnu7_1628

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About W1ngnu7_1628

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  1. Clearly. And you're right, I think I would cringe every time I saw it.
  2. Since we're on the topic of furniture that makes you feel uncomfortable, here's this.
  3. Untrue on me just looking for agreement and I agree with you. "aesthetically awkward" is the perfect phrase for it. But you know as well as I do the Internet is full of snap judgements and I was just hoping for some thoughtful feedback beyond, "buy more wood" on what I think is an interesting topic. I'd be willing to bet this only looks ugly to woodworkers because we see it as unnatural, an abomination. To a layperson, they see nice jointery because we all know dovetails are pretty. I thought others might wonder why that is and consider that we're constraining our design sense unnecessarily.
  4. Will probably be fewer, larger dovetails, wenge front, mahogany sides.
  5. I'm one of the people that doesn't constrain himself by right and wrong way when it comes to design. This is a design question and I'd like subjective design opinions. Thanks for yours.
  6. So I'm not trying to argue for doing this since I've already gotten 2 more opinions to match my own but for arguments sake, what makes this so different than box joints? I'm actually building the nightstand guild project which has big box joints. For the same reason that I like that design showing some jointery on the drawer front, I was considering dovetails. Does it really come down to a pavlovian response to backwards dovetails?
  7. Thanks, I have more stock, and a few other ideas, but I was trying to ask a specific question. Thanks for your opinion.
  8. I know there's a lot of other ways to solve the 7/8" problem but before I give up on this solution, I wanted some other expert opinions.
  9. I'm building some drawers, just the boxes, won't have drawer faces. The boards i'm using for the front side of the boxes are 7/8" too short. I'd like to do half-blind dovetails where the pinboards on the sides make up the extra 7/16" per side. I think this actually looks pretty good but when I did a test and put it up on the frame, the first thing I thought of was having the tailboard in the front goes against the whole point of dovetails since pulling the drawer open would be like pulling the tailboard out of the pinboards. I know glue would hold it and it's just as strong as a box joint. My problem is how my brain immediately jumped to "that's the wrong way to do a dovetail". I personally can accept that as well but I hate the thought of building this nice piece of furniture and anyone looking at it that understands dovetails is going to think the same thing I did...This guy doesn't know what he's doing. I know there's a lot of other ways to solve the 7/8" problem but before I give up on this solution, I wanted some other expert opinions.
  10. I was thinking the same for clamping and will give it a test.
  11. Thanks. I'm aware of segmented ring. In this case I want continuous grain from one block.
  12. I was wondering if anyone had ever tried this technique or had thoughts about it: When turning a bowl from a large blank, I always hate turning 80% of the stock into shavings. I thought maybe I could use the technique for bandsaw boxes, to hollow out the middle with the bandsaw so that I could use that smaller blank later. I'm a bit concerned though how that glued up, hollowed, blank would turn. You'd obviously want to glue and close up that gap from the bandsaw blade incredibly well to keep the chisel from catching. Has anyone tried this?
  13. I wanted to see about resurrecting this thread in case anyone has come across anything better. I bought the Howard Leights that Marc suggested and like them fine but if I could improve a couple of things: They get pretty sweaty when it's warmishWould be nice if they were a bit lighterWould like softer padding that doesn't crack, maybe a fabric.Anyone find anything recently that they like better?
  14. That's a lot of good specific feedback. Much appreciated.